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Thread: Cool Hand Luke UMF frame

  1. #1
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    Cool Hand Luke UMF frame

    So I got the OK from Logic to use his UMF frame design, would there be any interest in an updated version?

    Loose plans would be as follows:
    *Switch to an Intelli type trigger.
    *AGD rear thumb screw.
    *Keep the 45 grip panels (rubber wrap around)
    *Standard dowell pin for the trigger (with set screws)
    *T-Rex ready
    *Maintain the same basic shape but smooth the edges over and do something different with the 1/4 inch relief on the bottom side of the trigger guard.
    *I would try to do something different with the safety relief milling that is on the right hand side. (I have several ideas for that)
    *This would come with both of our logos, Lc one one side of the trigger guard and the Logic L on the other.
    *Not sure about the ASA mounts, I think he did 4 holes on the bottom and a dovetail. My instinct to to go with the standard 2 hole.
    *Full ULE milling.

    One thought about the standard 45 grips is that it does take away the option of mounting an internal hidden LPR and the top grip screw hits the T-Rex so it must be shortened.

    I hate to use the word 'preorder minimum' but this is not something I'm looking to stock for the long term.

    So what do you guys think?

  2. #2
    Interested.


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  3. #3
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    My issue with logic frames has always been that they can't be used on minimag length rails unless you skip the foregrip
    Quote Originally Posted by dano_____ View Post
    I keep forgetting to not feed my mags after midnight so they seem to multiply regularly.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by cougar20th View Post
    My issue with logic frames has always been that they can't be used on minimag length rails unless you skip the foregrip
    That's the price to pay for a large trigger guard, not sure it would make sense to shorten it(?)

  5. #5
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    Ooooh.....interesting idea. I've got loads to say about this.

    Switching the valve screw to an AGD thumb screw does sound convenient, although I'm not sure how I feel about that. I don't care about the extra bulge of the screw pushing down into your hand (you'd hardly feel it), but the streamlined look of the UMF was one of the first things I noticed about that. You'd lose that if you had a big fat thumb screw sticking out there. So...pros and cons for that.

    I'm also not sure what your plans are for the bottom. Removing the two extra mounting holes is fine, but I hope you'll keep the dovetail milling. That was THE reason I bought a UMF in the first place. It was the only frame at the time (and maybe still) that had that feature.

    As for the grips, maybe you can use something that has different mounting holes. I know it's a crazy idea, but Dye makes a different grip for Spyder guns that might work, since the holes are in different places. Spyder grips should be about the same thinkness, and different holes leave more options for mounting internal hardware.

    I'm sure I'll be back with more ideas, but I like the direction you're taking.

  6. #6
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    Very interesting....
    "When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty." Thomas Jefferson

  7. #7
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    Switching the valve screw to an AGD thumb screw does sound convenient, although I'm not sure how I feel about that. I don't care about the extra bulge of the screw pushing down into your hand (you'd hardly feel it), but the streamlined look of the UMF was one of the first things I noticed about that. You'd lose that if you had a big fat thumb screw sticking out there. So...pros and cons for that.
    IIRC Tom said using a standard screw is a big no-no. If he wants to chime in and say otherwise I will consider keeping it.

    I'm also not sure what your plans are for the bottom. Removing the two extra mounting holes is fine, but I hope you'll keep the dovetail milling. That was THE reason I bought a UMF in the first place. It was the only frame at the time (and maybe still) that had that feature.
    That's a standard mod I've offered for years now, there's really no reason to add the additional cost to every frame. Not everyone is going to use it and having one and not using it looks tacky.

    As for the grips, maybe you can use something that has different mounting holes. I know it's a crazy idea, but Dye makes a different grip for Spyder guns that might work, since the holes are in different places. Spyder grips should be about the same thinkness, and different holes leave more options for mounting internal hardware.
    The good thing about 45 grips is they are available in a plethora of options and they will be available till the end of time. Honestly I would rather make aluminum ones designed to the necessary specifications. The T-Rex is designed with recesses to make clearance for the grip screws so I personally prefer that. Plus using 45 panels makes another product I've got designed, ready for machining and testing not usable with this frame if we go that route, there's always a trade off in design.
    Last edited by luke; 09-12-2017 at 10:57 PM.

  8. #8
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    If I can, I'll be snagging one, I love the feel of logic umf and my parts bin can always use a new triggerframe

  9. #9
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    Also is the possibility for aluminum 45 grips to match the triggerframe/match a logic umf an idea?

  10. #10
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    My favorite mech frame.

  11. #11
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    Did the UMF use an AGD safety assembly?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpha_q_up23 View Post
    Also is the possibility for aluminum 45 grips to match the triggerframe/match a logic umf an idea?
    Kind of early to start talking optional parts but if people are buying I'll make it. It's the making and not selling that is always the hurdle, that's why the majority of my products are being discontinued.

    Right now we're just shy of 100 views in this thread and only the following responses:
    one interested
    one maybe
    one with lots of ideas for the design
    one I like the UMF

    I can pretty much tell by peoples replies within the first 100-150 views if a project is viable. This one, well...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    Did the UMF use an AGD safety assembly?

    Yes, it was reversed. Red was on the right side.

  14. #14
    Never liked the look of them personally.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    IIRC Tom said using a standard screw is a big no-no. If he wants to chime in and say otherwise I will consider keeping it.
    I've heard this from many others, but I have to say I've never understood it. It's possible that the "tougher" thumb screw was necessary for harder hitting Level 7 bolts, but I've used standard hardened-steel screws in various Automags for years and I've never had a problem (although I'm pretty sure that all those mags had Level 10 bolts). In fact, the only screw I've ever broken was an AGD thumb screw.

    Regardless, it doesn't hurt to keep the countersink in the rear hole (except for the extra milling time, I suppose). You can still use a thumb screw, which is big enough to cover the tapered part. Or you can use a flathead screw if you have a Level 10 valve.

    But I also won't be getting one, sadly. I've got too many markers and parts as it is. I'm only interested in this thread for the design talk.

    Now, if you ever build a Dye NT copycat frame......

  16. #16
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    I'd have to plan another Mag project for it but that leaves room for the next XMT body or Lc rail. I'll buy one.

    A new foregrip extender to make the UMF grip-compatible with AM/MM length rails would be complementary and very welcomed.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking Stick View Post
    plan another Mag project


    ...plan...

    Does that work? I suppose I have planned, but never followed the plan.

  18. #18
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    Stoked to read about this idea.

    I liked the size of the UMF frame in my hand, and personally thought it looked great as part of a build, but I had two main gripes with it:

    1) There was no choice of trigger! I wanted so badly to be able to use AGD/Intelliframe triggers.

    2) The overall blocky-ness and sharp edges. I realize there were a few different iterations of the UMF, but the one I owned had sharp edges on the trigger guard, and nearly square edges on the back of the gripframe. I remedied this (somewhat) by using wraparound grips, but the thing felt like I was holding a 2x4 sometimes.

    If a new UMF solved these two issues, I'd be a definite buyer! And it would be amazing if an internal LPR could be hidden to make this a complete sleeper frame. Im excited to see where this goes!

  19. #19
    I'm with Billz.
    If it's rounder, compatible with the t-rex, and sleeper-ready; I'm in.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by bowcycle View Post
    I'm with Billz. If it's rounder, compatible with the t-rex, and sleeper-ready; I'm in.
    I'm more in favor of going with the sleeper pneumag frame too, but we'll need to ditch the 45 grips to make it work. I've designed a new LPR that's going inside the LcP90 frame I've been working on (Can be used with or without the T-Rex) so perhaps we can use it in this if it fits...

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I'm more in favor of going with the sleeper pneumag frame too, but we'll need to ditch the 45 grips to make it work. I've designed a new LPR that's going inside the LcP90 frame I've been working on (Can be used with or without the T-Rex) so perhaps we can use it in this if it fits...
    SHWINGGGGG!!!!



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