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Thread: Cool Hand Luke UMF frame

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Will it use standard 45 grips?
    I'm leaning towards aluminum grips because the top screw of 45 grips hit the T-Rex, so screw threads would have to be ground down to 0.07" in length, not exactly ideal.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Will it use standard 45 grips?

    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I'm leaning towards aluminum grips because the top screw of 45 grips hit the T-Rex, so screw threads would have to be ground down to 0.07" in length, not exactly ideal.

    I think thats kind of an affliction of all the aftermarket frames, and really with new designs, I dont see how it can be helped.

    No one really ever came up with a good option for the UMF or the Triton, although Kruger did make a few wood ones.

    If someone had the tools to do it (dremel and band saw ?), micarta is an option that can be had fairly inexpensively on eBay...


    "When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty." Thomas Jefferson

  3. #33
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    Micarta is not cost effective, its much more expensive than aluminum

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I'm leaning towards aluminum grips because the top screw of 45 grips hit the T-Rex, so screw threads would have to be ground down to 0.07" in length, not exactly ideal.
    That is awful.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    That is awful.
    45 panels aren't really worth the trade off:
    -They don't fit correctly
    -They don't look right on non 45 grip frames
    -Less ULE milling
    -Hassle adding a LPR
    -Does not work well with the T-Rex
    -Wonky standards on 45 grip screw spacing
    -Most people will ask me to make aluminum grip panels anyway.

  6. #36
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    My absolute favorite frame. Keep the countersunk valve screw please!!!

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    Micarta is not cost effective, its much more expensive than aluminum
    That may be true but aluminum needs to be anodized adding a cost you arent counting, and there are some amazing patterns of micarta that would make some pretty cool looking custom grips.

    Quote Originally Posted by sjrtk View Post
    My absolute favorite frame. Keep the countersunk valve screw please!!!
    *AGD rear thumb screw.

    From OP

  8. #38
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    I can always hope...

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by going_home View Post
    That may be true but aluminum needs to be anodized adding a cost you arent counting, and there are some amazing patterns of micarta that would make some pretty cool looking custom grips.
    Micarta cost at least 6X more than aluminum.
    I do machine plastic but can be tricky unless you spend a bunch of money to get setup to machine it. I would have to purchase a vacuum plate, vacuum, and all the parts to set it up, plus the cost of fixturing plates would go up by several hundred times or more. It's just not worth it (to me) doing low volume runs that I do.

  10. #40
    Iím interested

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjrtk View Post
    My absolute favorite frame. Keep the countersunk valve screw please!!!
    As I understand it standard screws are a safety issue. I could be miss remembering the statement, but I recall TK stating many years ago that using standard screws were dangerous. I would probably switch all my frames to a flathead if that wasn't the case.

  12. #42
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    I am interested but for RT Classic set up. I understand it can't be used for TRex

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    As I understand it standard screws are a safety issue. I could be miss remembering the statement, but I recall TK stating many years ago that using standard screws were dangerous. I would probably switch all my frames to a flathead if that wasn't the case.
    I've used standard screws in various mags for years and I've never had an issue. In fact, the only screw I've ever broken was an AGD factory screw. Maybe this is an old piece of advice that's outdated. As in, the screws from $30 years ago couldn't be trusted, but nowadays they are stronger and safer.

    Still, it's better to be safe than sorry. I doubt the screw hold design will be a deal-breaker for anyone.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by rawbutter View Post
    I've used standard screws in various mags for years and I've never had an issue. In fact, the only screw I've ever broken was an AGD factory screw. Maybe this is an old piece of advice that's outdated. As in, the screws from $30 years ago couldn't be trusted, but nowadays they are stronger and safer.

    Still, it's better to be safe than sorry. I doubt the screw hold design will be a deal-breaker for anyone.
    I have had to had multiple (8 x valves, 2 classic, 2 rt valves) ruined from other people using other screws and or trying to remove broken screws. I have used field strip screws since 2k2 and have had no issues. if one snaps its easily removable with a eraser end. The same can not necessarily be said for other screws. not to mention you can't get it finger tight if you are using a tool. you have to think about people who will purchase your product and whether or not they will replace the screw that the head is starting to strip out on before its done and who is then going to be asked to remove that screw with out ruining the frame, valve etc.

    I wouldnt use a standard screw and i surely wouldn't countersink it.

  15. #45
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    It won't stop me from getting one of the frames myself. Just the perfect frame shape and angle for my hands.

  16. #46
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    Interested!

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