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Thread: New Automag

  1. #1

    New Automag

    Friends have taken me paintballing a few times and I've taken a liking to it. A field by me is free admission if I bring my own gear(so long as I buy paint), so I decided to spend some money on a marker. Instead of buying a Tippmann like everyone on the internet told me to do(and because of my obsession with being different), I did a bit of reading and research into the history... and I bought an automag! It just came in the mail today, but I have no idea what I've got here. I've done a fair bit of research, but I don't really know what I'm doing at all.

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    Here are some photos: https://imgur.com/a/GWOdq

    Based on the ACI expansion chamber, I realized that this gun was adapted to run on CO2, but I can't really tell any more about it until I take it apart tomorrow after testing for leaks. If anyone has any advice on doing that, by the way, please share. I also read that mags love oil, but I'm not exactly sure where to put the oil. The articles all pointed towards the ASA, but I'm not exactly sure where that is, since there's the expansion chamber...

  2. #2
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    congratulations and welcome to the addiction. put 4 or 5 drops of oil in where the tank screws in, remove the barrel and air up and fire the marker several times. this will completely oil the valve. going forward you can use less oil but always remove the barrel so you don't oil it and cause your paint to shoot all over the place. what you have is a hopper right, power feed classic mag with an intelliframe and aci expansion chamber with a J&J barrel and a revolution hopper. all good parts. i would recommend getting a CP on/off asa(the part the tank screws into) and replacing the expansion chamber with either a lighter gas thru foregrip or a non gas thru and changing your set up to run macroline from the asa to the valve.

  3. #3
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    also make sure you have the parabolic power feed plug.

  4. #4
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    your air tank will need to be 800 to 850 psi output. you can air it up and if it doesn't leak your good but most of us will take a new to us valve apart and check or replace all the o rings when we first get it. you can get rebuild kits from AGD or Tuna.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    congratulations and welcome to the addiction. put 4 or 5 drops of oil in where the tank screws in, remove the barrel and air up and fire the marker several times. this will completely oil the valve. going forward you can use less oil but always remove the barrel so you don't oil it and cause your paint to shoot all over the place. what you have is a hopper right, power feed classic mag with an intelliframe and aci expansion chamber with a J&J barrel and a revolution hopper. all good parts. i would recommend getting a CP on/off asa(the part the tank screws into) and replacing the expansion chamber with either a lighter gas thru foregrip or a non gas thru and changing your set up to run macroline from the asa to the valve.
    Thanks!

    So I've unscrewed the barrel, but the chrome EDGE .693 piece doesn't come off, and I don't want to force it. How do I remove the hoses from the valve body? What does the intelliframe do for me besides the double trigger?

  6. #6
    Nvm disregard below, I got it out!!

    Tom Kaye really made this thing idiot proof!!!

    ----

    Ok, so I think I may have done something really wrong. When I disassembled the valve, a pill shaped metal rod (rounded ends) fell out of what I thought was the valve assembly. I put it back in, but when I reseated the bolt and the bolt spring, the bolt pushed the small metal pill into the valve itself. It's now clinking around in there and I have no idea how to get it out.

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    The pill was the same as the thing on the left side of the quarter.
    Last edited by Surprise Attack; 10-14-2017 at 10:51 PM.

  7. #7
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    I believe that the "pill" shaped item is the sear pin. That slides into the sear, which allows the sear to rock back and forth. I could be wrong, but 99% sure here. I believe that as you took the gun apart, the sear assembly fell out and you did not notice it, as the on/off came out.
    Last edited by Tunaman; 10-15-2017 at 07:25 AM.

  8. #8
    You are 100% correct. I managed to get it out and reassembled the gun without issue. Upon disassembly however I noticed some other weird stuff. More pics tomorrow.

  9. #9
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    the intelliframe was designed to allow you to place a microswitch behind the trigger to activate your revvy hopper at first then later your warp feed.

  10. #10
    Thanks. I was hoping for something a bit more snazzy, but that's cool too!

    So, here are some more photos: https://imgur.com/a/E0zPn

    Does my gun have a level 10 bolt? If it is, I think it's missing the foamie. Do I absolutely need to have that? Especially if most of what I'll be playing is reball?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Surprise Attack View Post
    Thanks. I was hoping for something a bit more snazzy, but that's cool too!
    It can also be used to mount pneumatic components for conversion kits.

  12. #12
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    Yes, you have a level 10 bolt. It is missing the foamy. You can use it without the foamy, but should get one for it. It will prevent the balls from rolling back into the cavity which will allow the next ball in the stack to push farther into the breach. With smaller balls these days, you don't want to allow them to hang down into the breach. The slower forward movement of the level 10 should protect against breakage, but some fragile paint can still get cracked, which could result in a barrel break during the shot.

    You should get some spare carriers if you don't have a full set. The first time you need to replace the powertube oring, the different carrier sizes will be needed to properly adjust the tension on it for the level 10 to work properly. Get a complete oring kit too. You will need it at some time. It would be a good to replace all the orings right off the bat just to be sure everything is fresh and new. Get a new red bolt spring. You won't need it right away, but if you shoot any amount at all, the bolt spring will wear out. Its usually somewhere around 30000 cycles.

    The intelliframe is a nice crisp trigger frame. You don't need to add the micro switch.

    I prefer to remove the expansion chamber and use a gas through grip instead. It makes the gun less bulky and lighter, but it isn't critical. The gun will work fine in its present configuration.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  13. #13
    Huh. Level 10 bolt, intelliframe, classic valve. What a weird combination. I wonder what the previous owner was planning to do with this gun. Doesn't seem like he'd need level 10 with this setup but he's got it.

    I was thinking x valve somewhere down the line but that's looking even less economical now since there's no point to the included level 10 bolt.

    Wonder if I was meant to make this a pneumag.

  14. #14
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    Not a weird combination at all, especially with a gravity fed hopper. The level 10 prevents chops, which can happen with any gun. A chop can occur if you tip the gun sideways when you fire. It can occur if you happen to get on the trigger and have two really close shots fired. It can also occure when the hopper runs low and there is no pressure on the ball stack, which occurs in both gravity fed and force fed hoppers. I used to chop on my 68automag (Classic) all the time for the previous mentioned reasons. The level 10 is the best upgrade for any mag.

    I forgot to reiterate a previous mention of getting a new parabolic feed plug. It will make the balls push around the corner at the bottom of the feed elbow much easier, thus preventing jams and the possibility of chops.

  15. #15
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    I would watch the old Automag Tech video with Tom Kaye on Youtube so you get a complete understanding of how the classic valve mag works. It still has the clearest explanations of troubleshooting and valve function. Your Lvl 10 bolt functions a little differently than the older Lvl 7 bolt featured in the tech video, but other than that the valve's the same. Once you have it up and running right, it should shoot a decent bit more consistently than the usual Tippmann 98's, A5's and X7's, (except for maybe the Phenom, which uses a very similar 'blow foward' valve design like Automags!)

    AGD also makes some nicer triggers for that Intelli frame that you can swap out if you don't care for that one.

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