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Thread: Getting back to it

  1. #1

    Getting back to it

    Hey guys, Iím new to the forum and just picked up an rt ule. Iíve been out of the sport for around 8 years and have come back to a clearly changed scene. I'd always wanted a mag so I finally picked one up but Iím looking to know what a decent set up (barrel, hopper, air system) would be and also some advice on a decent mask. I recognize some of the higher end brands (dye, empire, etc) but just to put it into perspective my last new marker was a macdev 07 cyborg. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    waiting for winter
    Posts
    1,571
    welcome! paint these days is garbage, your best barrel is to pick up some kind of barrel system like a freak or Stella from Inception Designs. you will need 800 to 850 psi to run the marker, i'm partial to Ninja regs and really like their super light series tanks. any force fed hopper will work, prophecy, dye rotor an older halo etc. I like my valken a lot but I seem to be the exception on this forum. masks are such a personal choice its hard for me to recommend one since I still use a JT Spectra.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    PGH
    Posts
    262
    Mag
    - if an X valve grab a Level 10 bolt to stop chops
    - get a rebuild kit from AGD or Tunaman to be able to trouble shoot any leaks
    - if a ULE body get a clamping feedneck (Angel threaded from Inception, Nummech, Empire, CCM, CP old AKA or RPG)
    - customize with new production parts or the randomly available aftermarket goodies from the last few decades (grip frames, triggers, rails, bodies...)

    Gear
    - I'm happy still using my WarpFeed, Pinokio, Magna, VLocity, Eggy, Apache and Revvy hoppers...
    - I still use VForce Profiler masks...
    - Ninja or Immortal Air (current iteration of Air America) for high pressure regs and tanks
    - paint is smaller so definitely a multi-bore barrel system (I've heard alot of good things about the Stella recently and will probably pick one up soon)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Tampa, hot & humid.....
    Posts
    7,122
    Ninja 68 SL (superlite) tank standard 800 output.

    Virtue Extend mask, better chin coverage, never fogs.

    Virtue Spire 280 loader.

    Inception Designs Stella barrel kit.

    "When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty." Thomas Jefferson

  5. #5
    Thanks guys I have a used freak kit on the way, glad to know they’re still quality. Looking at a halo too just because of the price point, and frankly I never really noticed too much of a difference between hoppers when I was on my dm7 or cyborg and I was using a pmi carbon fiber tank before my hiatus (which is now way, way out of hydro) and might pick another one up again just because 129.00 for a 68/4500 tank seems like a solid deal if 800 psi is what I need to run the gun.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    3,733



    I played one day in the past three years a few weeks ago and found myself in the same situation you're in. The Halo is a familiar loader thar I know works but spent the extra $25 to try the rotor (I believe this is the lowest tier rotor available). I had an auto response trigger malfunction and suddenly the gun started firing fully automatic (at a rof I thought wasn't possible with lvl 7 valves.). I found it odd that not a single ball chopped and was impressed how much simpler it was to tinker with/clean. The Immortal Air tank was what was brought to me when I asked to buy a tank. No complaints but next time I go I'm making a note to bring less firepower since things have changed to be much calmer that I remember.

  7. #7
    Went out to Pev’s this afternoon and finished blowing the money of the rest of the gear. Picked up a ninja SL 77/45 (which was way cheaper in person than anywhere I could find it online). Got a dye Lt-r, and V-force profiler (tried it on and preferred it over any of the “newer” designed masks they had). The tech there let me air her up also just make 100% she works and aside from some basic tuning of the lvl 10 and (maybe) shortening the sear it should be in good working order (though it rt’s a little too easily for my liking to be honest). Thanks for all the advice guys!

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