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Thread: Trouble getting new ule mag to rt consistently

  1. #1

    Trouble getting new ule mag to rt consistently

    So I bought a new from agd ule mag last year. I have had issues getting it to rt effectively and with any consistency. I can get like a two shot burst somewhat on demand and a 3 shot burst if I am lucky. The tank is a ninja pro shp with all the shims (how it came from factory) and it has that ball valve instead of a pin valve. The gauge on my asa says it is putting out 1300 psi. There is also no shortage of oil in the gun. I've also put about 4 or t cases through it so everything should be nice and broken in. I am using a cp on/off asa also and have noticed it does work better with the on/off not screwed in all the way but just a slight improvement at that

  2. #2
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    does it have the rt or ule on off in it? all of my rt valve guns have a different sweet spot and it takes a little finesse on a couple of them to get them to rip off a long string.

  3. #3
    It has the rt on/off. I also I have been messing with the field strip screw and if I have it cranked tight it behaves as a solid reliable crisp semi auto mech. If I loosen it a quarter turn or so it will start to kind of maybe want to rt. If I only turn it hand tight then it just chuffs and want fire and the trigger doesn't reset. If I loosen considerably after having it just hand tight (considerably meaning 1-2 full turn), it starts to rt again kinda but only 2 or 3 shot bursts.

  4. #4
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    is the bolt sticking during any of these adjustments? it sounds more like a valve to body to rail alignment problem.

  5. #5
    It will stick when it's hand tight only. I believe you are right though, as when I have it quite a bit looser than hand tight then manually put some pressure on the valve from the top it will sometimes rt a bit.

  6. #6
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    The field strip screw being in tight is necessary. Do not loosen it, as that can cause it to break down and cause damage to the body, bolt, and valve.

    It takes time to sweet spot a trigger. Double triggers are easier due to leverage.

    Sandman has said in not so many words that new gun are set up to not "burst, runaway, or RT". The trigger reaet will always be there, but not the rapid fire which is a by-product of the operation. It is a side effect not a goal.

    I would thoroughly stress to check the output of the tank. Just because it is said, or it is claimed, does not mean the tank is pitting out the said pressures.

    When you have a consistent working gun, then qe can go about getting it to be fun, but it should not be in place of safety.

  7. #7
    If you have a ULT trigger in the gun, get a standard RT on/off.

    If you already have the RT on/off then shorten your on/off pin. Shorten the pin in very small steps until the guns fires as fast as you are comfortable with or until you can reach a sweet spot you like.

    As I've always stated, bouncing, rapid fire, repeat fire or any ability of the gun to "runway" is technically a malfunction.

    Do not use the thumbscrew as a means to "adjust" your gun. Most of the time the thumbscrew has it's own "sweet" spot. Overtighten and you torque the body, under tighten and it works loose. Most of the time just a small turn past hand tightening is where it likes to sit.
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  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Sandman View Post
    If you have a ULT trigger in the gun, get a standard RT on/off.

    If you already have the RT on/off then shorten your on/off pin. Shorten the pin in very small steps until the guns fires as fast as you are comfortable with or until you can reach a sweet spot you like.

    As I've always stated, bouncing, rapid fire, repeat fire or any ability of the gun to "runway" is technically a malfunction.

    Do not use the thumbscrew as a means to "adjust" your gun. Most of the time the thumbscrew has it's own "sweet" spot. Overtighten and you torque the body, under tighten and it works loose. Most of the time just a small turn past hand tightening is where it likes to sit.
    Thanks. I actually have been meaning to email you lately but kept forgetting. I'm the guy who got the new size carriers first. I wanted to say thank you very much for your help and excellent customer service. I have both rt and ult on/offs. The rt on/off is the one I am using. I know rapid fire is technically a malfunction but I mean.... come on that's where the fun is at.

    @nobody my gauge on my asa say the tank is putting out 1300psi. Also once the pressure starts to drop below 1300, the gauge on my tank and the gauge on my asa match. I know there can be like a +/- 5% difference in actual psi from a gauge reading but if both are reading the same psi then I would think the the actual psi coming out of the tank is what the gauge says if not very close. The gun does work pretty consistently now that I have gotten it all set up with the help of sandman.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sandman View Post
    If you already have the RT on/off then shorten your on/off pin. Shorten the pin in very small steps until the guns fires as fast as you are comfortable with or until you can reach a sweet spot you like.
    Exactly what I was going to suggest.

    For the thumbscrew, the best spot for mine is a quarter turn past hand tight. So hand tight, then another quarter turn with a hex key.

    Once you get it humming, trigger stops are pretty nice for dialing in for repeatability - hit the sweet spot every time. I dont have this on mine, but I had an opportunity to test fire another members mag once and oh buddy she sang! It was magnificent.

  10. #10
    Alright thanks guys. So with shortening the on/off pin, that would eliminate the need for stupid high pressure output tank yes? Also will shortening the pin make it to where it will only rapid fire? I don't want it to be like that all the time, I just want to be able to rip off a nice string if needed (field where I play at has no rof cap and a bunch of electro douches that like to ruin it for everyone else).
    Last edited by Gabehcoud; 11-07-2017 at 05:55 AM.

  11. #11
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    yes, shortening the pin will do away with the need for shp, if you get the pin too short then it will run away on you every time. take it down a couple of thousands of an inch at a time until you get to the point you want.

  12. #12
    Alright cool. I see on agd's sight they have pins off different lengths I might just buy those to start with.

  13. #13
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    Just go to a .740" pin.

  14. #14
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    I normally don't go under a . 740 pin.

  15. #15
    Well I ordered a .745 and a .740 so we'll see how it goes this weekend

  16. #16
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    Are you sure your tank gauge isnt just telling you how much pressure is in the tank ?

    You have to measure the pressure coming out of the tank, not how much is in the tank.

    If you have one of the larger half dollar sized gauges, put it on a spare asa and plug the other air port in the asa if there is another.

    Screw it on the tank and open the asa knob, and your home made pressure tester will tell you what the tank regs output psi is.

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  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by going_home View Post
    Are you sure your tank gauge isnt just telling you how much pressure is in the tank ?

    You have to measure the pressure coming out of the tank, not how much is in the tank.

    If you have one of the larger half dollar sized gauges, put it on a spare asa and plug the other air port in the asa if there is another.

    Screw it on the tank and open the asa knob, and your home made pressure tester will tell you what the tank regs output psi is.

    I have a gauge on my tank, as we all do, it will tell my how much psi is in the tank obviously, then I also have a gauge that is the same size as you describe, on my asa so that it would measure the output. That gauge always say 1300 psi with my shp tank as long as the tank gauge is above 1300 psi. Once the tank gauge reads below 1300 psi, the asa gauge reads the same number that is one the tank gauge. So I'm pretty sure that the gueages are accurate being the both read the same once the pressure in the tank starts to dip below 1300.

  18. #18
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    Yoiu can simulate a shorter on-off pin by pushing the on-off top farther in using a ULT level 10 shim in between the on-off halves. It will help you adjust the pin length for testing, to see if it will help.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    Yoiu can simulate a shorter on-off pin by pushing the on-off top farther in using a ULT level 10 shim in between the on-off halves. It will help you adjust the pin length for testing, to see if it will help.
    I was actually just thinking about that yesterday. I was looking at my ult after removing a shim from it because it was crazy rapid firing, but I ended up not doing it because I hadn't heard of anyone doing it before

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabehcoud View Post
    I was actually just thinking about that yesterday. I was looking at my ult after removing a shim from it because it was crazy rapid firing, but I ended up not doing it because I hadn't heard of anyone doing it before
    It has been done before with success. Only use a couple of shims. Too many shims will push the top too far and squeeze the top oring causing it to tighten on the on-off pin, which will slow down the action and cause sticking.

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