Warpless rotor shell

[knownothingmags]

ill just post this up here.
working on the shell,
thats the current project on the table.
ill come here with updates
will probably be picture heavy if i keep on it.

[knownothingmags]

Looking ok


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[knownothingmags]

KNM - not to beat a dead horse. I've followed your response and progress on your other thread with having to redesign a whole hopper build around the guts of rotor/box mag. As I look back at wingbatwu's original posting of his modification. What are your thoughts around making the adapting piece printed from the "top carrier" trim piece that mounts to the rotor top and attaches to the lid of the rotor. I've linked the piece from ANS showing the top carrier as a accessory that comes in different colors for people to interchange. It appears that his modified brass elbow penetrates the hopper top through the area where the lid carrier is attached to the top of the rotor by 5 screws. Without truly knowing the difficulty or ease of my question, I wonder if a printed lid carrier maybe a practical answer? This new printed lid carrier would still utilize the mounting screws attachment points of the top of the rotor. The part that would need to be printed would contain a printed conduit/tube that hovers over the internal parts of the rotary assembly from the box mag and carries a specified trajectory out the top placing the exit behind the lid hinge. Since this rotary assembly rotates/spins some relative accuracy would need to be accomplished where it sits above the assembly but provides a close connection where the path of the balls can enter and be channeled out the top of the lid carrier. The portion of printed conduit/tube could terminate outside of the top of the cover behind the lid (near where the dye emblem is placed in the linked color kit from ANS) with some type of flange to match the ID of common qloader/warp feed tubing. This approach would require a hole to be placed directly behind the hinge of the rotor lid of the top shell, which would be fairly simple to drill/dremel for the end user. It would be quit simple to install since its utilizing the same mounting screws for the lid top and the hinge of the lid attachment joint. Thinking out loud, it appears to be a feasible solution built off of wingbatwu's design without having to create from scratch? Ideally, this would allow a simple mount of the printed part through the same manor that his design produced results, just looking a little cleaner with printed parts. I hope you can understand what I described above, and again just a thought.

https://www.ansgear.com/Dye_LTR_Colo...lorkit-blk.htm

taking a look at this.
ultimately I want the end user to not have to cut or drill anything that is what im going to look into.
its good to have this type of input. there are different ways this can be approached. ill try to keep this going steady, at the same time looking at best practices for this application(within my means)
link to other thread for context.
https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...-project/page3

[barkingspider]

Big smile

[knownothingmags]

Big smile

lines up great.
need to modify the mating surfaces that the top shell sits to the bottom.
the surfaces arnt totally flat.
which makes sense dye wouldn't want things easy.
but i do have a contour that fits.
just small tweeks and ill move from there.
once its solid then ill start the full shell contour and then the position of the tube to the box rotor internals.

it looks good.
very pleased.

[knownothingmags]

I'll work some more on it tommorow.
Got some more test material

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[Justus]

Interested to see the progress. My time for projects has been extremely limited lately, lol.

[knownothingmags]

Same. I'm trying to up on this consistently. It's just hard.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[barkingspider]

[knownothingmags]

still workin on it.
no major updates.
if i get time ill throw up some pics.

[Walking Stick]

Interested.

[knownothingmags]

so here is a little update just a video.


coments and such just throw them up
if there is something im not showing in the video or want to see in the next let me know
not much to see yet. but its a start.

[luke]

Wouldn't it be easier just to make both halves and only worry about the specs to make the mechanical parts fit?

[knownothingmags]

Wouldn't it be easier just to make both halves and only worry about the specs to make the mechanical parts fit?

not sure what you mean? oh fit the rotor guts to my loader design?
i lose the nylon premade proven bottom of the rotor if i do that.
but yes i could go that direction.
its a direction this could go if i need to.
dont really want to.

but who knows maybe that is the direction the design goes on this.
and just my opinion but for me personally they would both be on the same scale of ease to design.

my biggest difficulty now and i know you get this as well, but finding the time is rough.

[luke]

Yea, just design the upper and lower halves to your spec so when you print the shells they fit together perfectly. Leave out the features you dont need like the original feedneck on the bottom (And whatever else, I never looked at it, but you would know) You could even design it to use a standard Warpfeed bracket if you wanted. The only spec you need to worry about would be the fitting of the internals, design the rest to your spec and it will make it MUCH easier in my opinion. I would imagine your burning some design and printing time trying to replicate it perfectly (As would be expected) all that effort goes away if you just redesign it.

I have another idea I'll share in a PM if you decide to go this route.

[knownothingmags]

Yea, just design the upper and lower halves to your spec so when you print the shells they fit together perfectly. Leave out the features you dont need like the original feedneck on the bottom (And whatever else, I never looked at it, but you would know) You could even design it to use a standard Warpfeed bracket if you wanted. The only spec you need to worry about would be the fitting of the internals, design the rest to your spec and it will make it MUCH easier in my opinion. I would imagine your burning some design and printing time trying to replicate it perfectly (As would be expected) all that effort goes away if you just redesign it.

I have another idea I'll share in a PM if you decide to go this route.

yeah ill throw something together and see where im at.

[knownothingmags]

working on it. but moving to OH, slowed this down a lot. took a different approach to it so it should move quicker, just have to find the time to mess with it. as of now its shelved. a lot of crazy personal stuff going on here so its a major slow down to the extra curriculars.

[going_home]

working on it. but moving to OH, slowed this down a lot. took a different approach to it so it should move quicker, just have to find the time to mess with it. as of now its shelved. a lot of crazy personal stuff going on here so its a major slow down to the extra curriculars.

To Palestine ?

[knownothingmags]

To Palestine ?

no lol. we are a little south. that whole situation is pretty @#*(, from my understanding they still don't give a @*#@ about the residents there.

[barkingspider]

Looking good!

[knownothingmags]

Starting on the guts,

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[knownothingmags]

Wow. First positional test print is pretty spot on. Just an update. But here you go.

Footprint just need to tune then put a loader around it.
Sucky I'm going this direction.
I did just want to make a top shell so anyone with a rotor was ready to go. But analyzing how a printed top shell would mate with a rotor bottom shell; the seam where they join would be cursed to be the weakest point. So full loader it is.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[zondo]

I like where this is going...

[knownothingmags]

UPDATE #2


questions dont hesitate to ask.

[Walking Stick]

So most of the internal parts will come from a standard Rotor...which ones come from a Box Rotor and acquired individually through DYE - the red propeller and black cage pieces?

Does the donating Rotor series matter - original, R2, LT-R?

[knownothingmags]

yes the spiral and the cage(eight ball)
I think im working off two original ones.
I would need an R2 to look at and compare and an LT-R.
but im guessing those are the same internals. since I cant find any documentation on change parts for the release of those loaders.
and yes the intents is to get the shell going and use donor parts from an existing rotor.

******
maybe....... down the road ill pursue making the internals minus the battery pack with the gear motor, that's not really a thought right now.

[GoatBoy]

So most of the internal parts will come from a standard Rotor...which ones come from a Box Rotor and acquired individually through DYE - the red propeller and black cage pieces?

Does the donating Rotor series matter - original, R2, LT-R?

I think the red piece is called the center arm, and the "8 ball" wheel is the other piece you will need.

For the R2 it looks like they made a few tweaks to the internals (and implemented a feature I had predicted like in 2008), but those parts remain compatible. Don't quote me on that though.

[knownothingmags]

I think the red piece is called the center arm, and the "8 ball" wheel is the other piece you will need.

For the R2 it looks like they made a few tweaks to the internals (and implemented a feature I had predicted like in 2008), but those parts remain compatible. Don't quote me on that though.

thankyou for getting the info out. ill call dye when I get a chance and make sure this is confirmed. before things are too set.

[knownothingmags]

UPDATE #3

[knownothingmags]

Warpless Rotor Style Loader update #4
bad lighting my apologies, working on the second office to sort that out.