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Thread: Mini mag feed issues

  1. #1

    Mini mag feed issues

    Hi guys, I need some help please as this is driving me crazy!

    I have a mini mag with the standard power feed, it has the upgraded parabolic power feed on/off, a level 10 bolt and X valve which functions properly from what I can tell (Iím using the short gold spring and 1 shim in the valve) it has an R/T on/off and Iím using 1100 psi input pressure. It also has an inteli frame fitted. It will R/T with no issues at all or single shot consistently if desired.

    The problem I have is that the paintballs keep jamming in the power feed/breach I have checked that the barrel is aligned properly (although Iím using a Docs Machine Mag to Cocker barrel adaptor) and there is nothing else obvious obstructing the breach. The valve is seated correctly in the rail and the field strip screw is hand tight.

    I have tried both the R1 and R2 Hoppers both of which I have adjusted the ball stack pressure to the lightest setting and the marker shoots very well but when I shoot a string of paint every so often the paint jams in the mouth of the breach, so hat the ball is essentially half in and half out!! The level 10 bolt does what it should and does not chop the paint but the bolt reset is a little slow and occasionally wonít reset at all 🤬

    Anyone got any ideas whatís causing this?

    Wrong spring for the level 10?
    Wrong type of hopper?
    Improperly adjusted level 10?

    Please help as Iím about to give up with this and would love to get this sorted before the weekend!!!
    Last edited by Systemx; 12-05-2017 at 04:55 AM.

  2. #2
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    check the detent in the barrel adapter.

  3. #3
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    the bolt not resetting is most likely a different problem than the paint not feeding. have you double checked that the ball that sticks is round?

  4. #4
    Ok so the detents is seated properly in the adaptor (I think itís the rubber spider type) the adaptor appears to be seated correctly in the body with the breach lining up with the appature in the body.

    I have tried 2 different types of paint GI 3 star and valken itís all round and new purchased in the last week.

    I have tried the red spring in the valve (to give the bolt more return strength?) and it wonít shoot at all with that fitted, strange?

    Do I need to add more shims to the bolt to help with the reset?

    With regards to the feeding issue shall I increase the ball stack pressure in the hopper?

  5. #5
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    Well, you do realize that you are causing an extra 90į turn for the paint to reach the breech, thus causing more time for the paint to get there. So, as you are over pressuring the valve and trying to shoot as fast as possible, the paint has limits. The general thought on feeding paint with a forcefeed hopper is to make the journey as short and straight as possible, so it can feed as fast and as unobstructed as it can.

    Unfamiliar with the R1 & R2 hoppers, unless you are just saying the versions of a rotor. But, try increasing the pressure. It seems to me that by going lightest, you are not getting pressure on the stack from the hopper, because of the powerfeed, and the ball is just hanging up on the bolt. The L10 is doing its job.

    You can also check the mouth of Doc's adapter, but i am sure its nice and wide and the paint is not hanging up on that.

    And, tighten the valve. Hand tight is not enough, especially if you are feeding the valve 1100psi. Tighten down the valve, snug. You don't have to torque it.

    And now rereading it, yes tighten the field strip screw.

  6. #6
    Ok so a ULE centre feed body may be on the cards to eliminate the power feed, Shame as I like the mini mag body. Anyway I will try turning up the ball stack pressure and tightening the field screw up a bit.

    Yeah the hoppers are the Rotor 1 and the newer Rotor 2 which I use on my electros.

    I suppose the only other option is to reduce the input pressure and slow it down if i canít get around this feeding issue as is?
    Last edited by Systemx; 12-05-2017 at 06:57 AM.

  7. #7
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    no need for a ULE yet. all my rt classics and E-mags are running power feeds and i don't have your problem and my hopper is either a valken v-max or a prophecy. What elbow are you using?

  8. #8
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    put your red spring back in and turn up the velocity until it shoots. It will be much kinder on paint.
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  9. #9
    @Vintage
    Thatís encouraging, as I really donít want to change the body as Iím quite fond of the Minimag one I have. Iím using an ACI plastic elbow. What would you recommend?

    Also hopper wise I have a DXS pulse loader that I have never used itís new in the box as it came with a load of gear that was given to me. I could try that instead of the Rotors?

  10. #10
    @Tunaman
    Iíll fit the red spring again and give it a go later on and see what happens!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Systemx View Post
    @Vintage
    That’s encouraging, as I really don’t want to change the body as I’m quite fond of the Minimag one I have. I’m using an ACI plastic elbow. What would you recommend?

    Also hopper wise I have a DXS pulse loader that I have never used it’s new in the box as it came with a load of gear that was given to me. I could try that instead of the Rotors?
    i use Pro Team Products elbows as do several other power feed users. they are about the shortest one i've seen, very tough and have the best looking angle on them in my opinion. you can get them strait from PTP's website and they sell them on ebay. i don't know much about rotors but if memory serves me correctly i believe Doug(Nobody) is right you need to turn them up a little.

  12. #12
    Typically if you are getting bolt stick, you would also add another shim in the level 10. Should help the bolt reset better. The feed issue does seem like a Elbow/loader/PF/adapter issue. Take your barrel off and detents off the Docs adapter. let paint roll through. Then load up a hopper with paint and watch what happens. With no detents and a force loader, paint should just pour through.
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  13. #13
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    If the level 10 is actually stopping on the ball and venting air, then the level 10 is working. You won't need to add anymore shims. If it won't reset properly, or if the reset is slow, then something is too tight. That could be the level 10 carrier or something else. Its usually the level 10 carrier. Usually it will fire and return with the short spring if it is close to being a proper fit, but may hang up on the return if the carrier is too tight and you have experienced an antichop action.

    As mentioned above, make sure the balls do flow through the breach when you take out the detents. Another thing to check is the fit of the bolt in the breach. Try dropping the bolt into the breach from the back of the gun to see if it slides easily without any restrictions. Make sure there are no burrs on the inner washer separating the front half of the body from the back half. Sometime they can get mushroomed and cause some rubbing.
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  14. #14
    Thanks guys. I have had a play with it at the weekend and refitted the red spring and I think that part of it was the detent. I have trimmed it and now the paint appears to feed correctly.

    However I have run out of air now and didnít have enough to put more than 50 balls through it. And could not test out how it feeds when itís R/Ting.

    As for the bolt reset, I still feel itís slow is I did get it to jam before I trimmed the detent down Iíll try a larger carrier as I have no idea which ones in there at the moment?!?!?! 😂

    I feel as though Iím making progress now though.

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