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Thread: X Valve goes full auto

  1. #1

    Question X Valve goes full auto

    Sorry guys, I thought I was doing the right thing by going back and posting to what I thought was the relevant thread...instead of making a new one.

    So here is some video of what is going on.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    called rt effect, most people want this. pull the on off pin and measure the length. if I remember you said you had 850 psi into it and if it bounces like that you may need a longer pin. did you buy the valve used?

  3. #3
    With the trigger fully pulled back it shouldn't be the RT effect. Can you feel the trigger pushing your finger forward when it does that? If the trigger stays fully back against the frame without moving it isn't RT effect.

    If it is RTing, grats.. you have an easy one. Mine don't RT so easily.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by RehKal View Post
    With the trigger fully pulled back it shouldn't be the RT effect. Can you feel the trigger pushing your finger forward when it does that? If the trigger stays fully back against the frame without moving it isn't RT effect.

    If it is RTing, grats.. you have an easy one. Mine don't RT so easily.
    that is just holding the trigger down.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    called rt effect, most people want this. pull the on off pin and measure the length. if I remember you said you had 850 psi into it and if it bounces like that you may need a longer pin. did you buy the valve used?
    I don't have calipers to measure it correctly, but I do have another RT on/off that I bought brand new from AGD and I compared them, they are the same.

  6. #6
    I bought the X valve new

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    That's not the RT effect, and I don't believe that most people want that, anyways.

    Most people want an Automag that functions correctly and controllably!

    I was having a similar issue to this at one point. Having just rebuilt my valve with new orings, I knew that I had good seals, but I worried that I had perhaps installed one incorrectly.

    I was thinking that the On/Off was the culprit, but I did an experiment to rule it out -- remove the bolt and spring from your marker, install the valve, and hold the trigger down as you air up. If the marker seals, I believe that you may rule out the On/off as the problem.

    After I did that, I opened the halves of my valve to inspect my orings. There is a smaller oring that gets stuck in the back half of the valve. Everything I've read has mentioned that it ought to actually go inside of the brass Reg Seat Holder piece, but I just pulled it out, oiled it, and replaced it into the hole on the rear of the valve.

    Voila. Marker seals, fires one shot per pull (with just a little reactivity!), and seals completely when I hold the trigger back.

    By the way, you can measure your trigger pin with a regular ruler if you don't have calipers. Obviously it isn't as precise, but .750 is equivalent to 3/4".

    Hope that helps some!

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Billz804 View Post
    That's not the RT effect, and I don't believe that most people want that, anyways.

    Most people want an Automag that functions correctly and controllably!

    I was having a similar issue to this at one point. Having just rebuilt my valve with new orings, I knew that I had good seals, but I worried that I had perhaps installed one incorrectly.

    I was thinking that the On/Off was the culprit, but I did an experiment to rule it out -- remove the bolt and spring from your marker, install the valve, and hold the trigger down as you air up. If the marker seals, I believe that you may rule out the On/off as the problem.

    After I did that, I opened the halves of my valve to inspect my orings. There is a smaller oring that gets stuck in the back half of the valve. Everything I've read has mentioned that it ought to actually go inside of the brass Reg Seat Holder piece, but I just pulled it out, oiled it, and replaced it into the hole on the rear of the valve.

    Voila. Marker seals, fires one shot per pull (with just a little reactivity!), and seals completely when I hold the trigger back.

    By the way, you can measure your trigger pin with a regular ruler if you don't have calipers. Obviously it isn't as precise, but .750 is equivalent to 3/4".

    Hope that helps some!
    Thanks for the reply, I tried the bolt off air up test and it was leaking out the front. I measured the on/off pin at 3/4".

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
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    I've seen a bad sear act this way, check the edge on the sear that catches the bolt for wear.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I've seen a bad sear act this way, check the edge on the sear that catches the bolt for wear.
    Brand new sear

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    I would still inspect the sear and bolt edge instead of assuming it's good because it's new. I've purchased many 'new' things in my lifetime that were bad for one reason or another, and you posted here in tech for that exact reason.

    It'll take 5 minutes to disassemble the marker and inspect the parts, I would use a magnifying glass for close inspection. Could be you were sent a worn sear by mistake.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I would still inspect the sear and bolt edge instead of assuming it's good because it's new. I've purchased many 'new' things in my lifetime that were bad for one reason or another, and you posted here in tech for that exact reason.

    It'll take 5 minutes to disassemble the marker and inspect the parts, I would use a magnifying glass for close inspection. Could be you were sent a worn sear by mistake.
    Your right, I just assumed it was new because it was in a new baggie and it was all shiney...I'll take a closer look

  13. #13
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    I'm certainly not saying you WILL find that is the problem but if everything is OK you can check it off the list.

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    If it still leaked when the trigger was held back, I believe it's safe to say that you have an issue in the on off somewhere.

  15. #15
    I'll go through and replace all the on/off o-rings

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    I'm certainly not saying you WILL find that is the problem but if everything is OK you can check it off the list.
    agreed
    it's in the details

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
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    Make sure you have both orings on top of the on off if it's an rt on off.

  18. #18
    Join Date
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    Halifax, N.S., Canada
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    Did you get this fixed? If you did, let us know what worked so that others can benefit from the insight.

    I would guess that it is an on-off top oring issue. The only other oring that could cause a leak into the front chamber is the small one at the back of the regulator pin assembly.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  19. #19
    I gave up on trying to fix it myself.
    I ended up just sending the gun to Tuna.

  20. #20
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by tizon View Post
    I gave up on trying to fix it myself.
    I ended up just sending the gun to Tuna.
    I changed the mainspring and the L10 carrier to one tighter. I see nothing else wrong with it. Let me know when you get it back and try it.
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. tunaman5@verizon.net
    Tunamart

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Tunaman View Post
    I changed the mainspring and the L10 carrier to one tighter. I see nothing else wrong with it. Let me know when you get it back and try it.
    Played today with the x-valve mini, it played great, no chops, very crisp trigger pull, super happy about it
    Now I'm thinking Xframe and ULT!

  22. #22
    Got around to cleaning the gun after going through 1/2 a case all day Sunday. Took the frame off the body, and gave everything a wipedown...put it back together and went to shoot in the backyard. Now it's back to shooting full auto again...

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