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Thread: Lvl 10 foamie

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    153

    Lvl 10 foamie

    Is this necessary? I have used superglue a few times, but never seems to permanently hold. I have chopped paint a few times when rapid firing, wondering if the foamie is the issue.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Inception Designs HQ
    Posts
    3,085
    Many will tell you yes. With the most fragile paint it will make a difference.

    Now with my own classic, i shot the original foamy out years ago and it never really mattered, to me.

    Of course, my classic is mine and mine alone. Each mag valve is the same but different. So you may need it. Otherwise, try gorilla glue. Super glues tend to make the foamy harder(especially liquids that will soak in), or you are not having a good clean bound from foamy to bolt tip. Use acetone(take your gf or wife's nail polish remover- same thing) to clean the old glue away and scrape off as much as possible. You want bare metal when putting on the new foamy.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    time to make a slurpee!
    Posts
    1,995
    Quote Originally Posted by Nobody View Post
    Many will tell you yes. With the most fragile paint it will make a difference.

    Now with my own classic, i shot the original foamy out years ago and it never really mattered, to me.

    Of course, my classic is mine and mine alone. Each mag valve is the same but different. So you may need it. Otherwise, try gorilla glue. Super glues tend to make the foamy harder(especially liquids that will soak in), or you are not having a good clean bound from foamy to bolt tip. Use acetone(take your gf or wife's nail polish remover- same thing) to clean the old glue away and scrape off as much as possible. You want bare metal when putting on the new foamy.
    ^^^QFT

    Especially the bare metal part some will actually grind a clean spot before applying the Gorilla Glue...
    ......You know you want one!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    153
    Thank you guys!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    offshore
    Posts
    8,522
    clean and scratch the hell out of the bolt...I use a diamond scribe. Loctite 380.
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. tunaman5@verizon.net
    Tunamart

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Connecticut
    Posts
    539
    IMO, keep the foamie. I've played games where it's field paint only with brittle paint, and my foamiless bolt actually was breaking paint just on impact. That slight cushion does help.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    I'm guessing you weren't chopping paint. The foamy won't help with chopping but it might help with fracturing, which is almost chopping I guess.

    It isn't necessarily the impact of the foamyless bolt that is causing the paint breakage. Its the fact that the bolt without the foamy can allow the paint to roll back into the face of the bolt. This allows the next ball in the stack to sit lower in the breach. When the bolt comes forward, the side impact of the bolt sliding past the ball and hitting it on the lower edge can fracture the shell of the ball above the bolt. The fractured ball then drops into the breach when the bolt resets after the cycle and gets more damaged due to the pressure from the ball stack. When fired, any force of the bolt pushing the fractured ball into the barrel causes a complete failure of the ball and it gets blown out of the barrel as a cloud of paint.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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