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Thread: On Gun Unireg Question

  1. #1

    On Gun Unireg Question

    Hi guys,

    Back in the day we used to run the classic mag with an on gun Unireg as a front grip, the high pressure air bottle was 3k I believe with a brass thumb turn on/off valve like in the pic:

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    I donít remember there being any burst disks or a fill nipple. So question is how would you get this type of system up and running today? Just swapping the old bottle out for a modern air system would be an issue as itís then triple regulated?

    Thanks in advance.

    Al....

  2. #2
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    With a classic, running a triple reg system will starve the gun. Add in that with a Unireg, more stainless steel does not makenit any lighter(subtraction through addition). I would bypass the unireg/foregrip and run from the tank to the valve.

    To fill it, i think you would run an ASA with a bottomline, so it could depress the pin valve and full it that way. But i am totally unsure. I do not see any advantage of that to today's better HPA options.

    As for the unireg itself, you can simply run the line past it, gut the internals of the unireg so it is inoperable or, open it up(i.e. run the reg totally open at its highest range) and just adjust pressure at the A.I.R. valve like normal. Double regging with co2 is near ideal for consistency, and even practical for HPA, but adding more to it will only have flow problems and that is no good.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Nobody View Post
    With a classic, running a triple reg system will starve the gun. Add in that with a Unireg, more stainless steel does not makenit any lighter(subtraction through addition). I would bypass the unireg/foregrip and run from the tank to the valve.

    To fill it, i think you would run an ASA with a bottomline, so it could depress the pin valve and full it that way. But i am totally unsure. I do not see any advantage of that to today's better HPA options.

    As for the unireg itself, you can simply run the line past it, gut the internals of the unireg so it is inoperable or, open it up(i.e. run the reg totally open at its highest range) and just adjust pressure at the A.I.R. valve like normal. Double regging with co2 is near ideal for consistency, and even practical for HPA, but adding more to it will only have flow problems and that is no good.
    I Think he's referencing that specific bottle in picture that had no reg on the tank itself and was more of a co2 style output of all 3000 psi.

  4. #4
    Hi,

    Thanks for the replies!

    Yes so I’d be wanting to keep the setup as original as possible, like in the image. My recollection is that this early air system was a 3k bottle with on/off valve (but no reg on the bottle) that was the purpose of the Unireg as front grip, it must have regulated the bottle pressure down to the AIR valve input level.

    Is that right? Did a Unireg take 3k pressure and what was it’s output range? I’m having trouble finding this info online, 450 - 850psi?

    So I have two thoughts here can you give any feedback on whether these options would be considered safe and would actually work:

    1 - new air system preset super high pressure setup with reg on the bottle, would go straight into the back of the gun. Regulating to say 900/1100. Could flow through the unireg front grip either regulating down to the AIR valve input pressure (650) or can the unireg be dialled out so it acts like a gas through front grip and feeds say a ReTro valve? Is there enough difference in the reg pressures for them to function properly?

    2 - Is there a modern on/off thumb turn valve (with no regulator) that can be used on a carbon fibre bottle? There are 3K CO2 valves like this online with burst disks built in, can these be used with 3k HPA? If this was possible/safe 3K would run to the unireg to do it's original job.

    Thanks in advance for any advice/input.


    Al...

  5. #5
    I don't know anything about the uniregs, but to your other questions:
    1 - the input pressure to an automag valve is much higher than 650. Guys regularly run 1000+ psi into them and on the FN303 version of the valve, it has all 3k blasting straight into it. You don't really want anything regging your input pressure below 800.

    2 - if you can find a tank to an FN303, that on/off will do just what you're asking, but that's going to take some doing.

  6. #6
    Sorry just checking: I thought a regular mag AIR valve was 650 input and the RT types 850 plus depending on how reactive a trigger you want?

    Is that not right?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Smith View Post
    Sorry just checking: I thought a regular mag AIR valve was 650 input and the RT types 850 plus depending on how reactive a trigger you want?

    Is that not right?
    I believe those were minimum required pressures if they were listed. Yeah theres a vid somewhere of a guy hooking a RT valve straight up to a SCUBA and RT'ing the hell out of it.

  8. #8
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    The valves "can" handle higher pressures but its not necessarily good. Putting 800psi in a classic valve or 120p+psi into a RT valve is fine, but when you run 2400psi into a valve, bad thing can happen.

  9. #9
    on the classic valves themselves they say "input rating 3000psi"
    I still wouldn't recommend going much higher than 1000, but TK knows his stuff.

  10. #10
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    I am sure that TK when designing the valve, knowing that his full intent was HPA, that if there was ever a reg fail at the tank, that safety concerns dictate that the valve was able to handle that max input and not blowup. So, max input, burst, and operating pressure are 3 different numbers and never the t'wain shall meet.

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