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Thread: LX'less mags still chop?

  1. #1
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    LX'less mags still chop?

    Hoppers are pretty freaking fast these days compared to revvies back when mags were at their peak. Have modern force feed hoppers made the Level 10 a little less of a necessity? For those still running level 7, how often are you chopping and breaking paint when you're using something like a Rotor or Spire.

    I just bought an RT Pro thats Level 7, and haven't had a Level 7 valve for 15'ish years. I would like to keep it as mint as possible (at least for now) so I'm trying to figure out what I'm in for as far as chopping/breaks. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    As far as I know, in terms of chops. You shouldn't have any issues, today's force feed hoppers are more than fast enough. Lvl X should still help with brittle paint. If I remember right, lvl 7 bolts discharge the air at 90 psi when firing. Lvl X drops this down to about 65 psi, if I'm wrong I'm sure someone will correct me. Point is lvl X still has its uses, but I dont think it's a necessity anymore like it was when it was first introduced. Having said that though, there is something that I wish to mention. I noticed that my halo too doesn't like to work with my powerfeed mag all that much. Yet it works flawlessly in my ULE vertical feed mag just fine.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    I’ve definitely noticed that L10 bolts handle brittle paint much better than L7 bolts regardless of the rate of fire. But L10 bolts still don’t do great with the most brittle of paint, such as Evil and HK Supreme.

    I think there’s more to why mags don’t do particularly well with brittle paint, though. My hypothesis is that the top front of AGD bolts (L7 or L10) have a tendency to clip the bottom of the ball that is next in the stack when firing the ball in the chamber, especially if the ball diameter is small. This has the potential to weaken or crack the shell of the paintball in the stack. When that compromised ball falls into the breech, it is primed to explode the next time the trigger is pulled regardless of the how slowly the user is shooting.

    Though this hypothesis is not confirmed with roundball, I found that while testing First Strikes in the magfed Automags I build, an unmodded L7 bolt had the tendency to snag onto the skirt of the next FSR in the stack about 1 in every 20 shots, resulting in damage to the plastic skirt and/or capsule of the next FSR in the stack, and sometimes even flipping it before it entered the breech.

    My solution was to taper/round off the bolt tip to prevent it from snagging onto the following FSR’s skirt and instead help the bolt smoothly glide over it. Think of a bicycle tire riding up a crosswalk ramp vs. riding straight into a curb. Same idea.
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    This modification worked extremely well; FSRs shoot flawlessly now. I can’t help but wonder whether this same approach would help hopper fed automags handle extremely brittle roundball better, too. If I ever get around to dropping what little coin I have on a box of uber brittle tournament paint just to test this, I’ll post my results here... if anyone is interested.
    Last edited by ghost flanker; 01-08-2019 at 12:18 PM.

  4. #4
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    I'm definitely interested in knowing the results.

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  5. #5
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    i think ghost flanker is correct about it seems more that the first ball in the stack sticks into the breach too far and gets fractured by the bolt passing by. if you have problems you could try one of the older foamie level 7 bolts.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Gundam V View Post
    I'm definitely interested in knowing the results.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
    I'd like to see Tunaman and Bigevil weigh in on this with their thoughts/past experience. Interesting concept for sure.

  7. #7
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    I have gotten chops with the lvl10, but only when there's a few balls remaining in my rotor and they come out sparsely. I would watch for that when using a rotor and instead just go for the reload.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobsterboy View Post
    I'd like to see Tunaman and Bigevil weigh in on this with their thoughts/past experience. Interesting concept for sure.
    Just resurrected a lvl7 Devilmag with eyes for a customer. They don't 'chop', but the hard nose bolt is really tough on paint. (Foamy lvl 7 much better). Still nothing better out there then a lvl 10 on almost any gun.

  9. #9
    LVL X bolts handle brittle paint far better because it doesn't move as quickly as the LVL 7 bolt. Your slowed down bolt is where you see the gains. While I have not had many problems ever with running a lvl7 bolt on a mag with a rotor with field and better paint. I have seen some really brittle tourney paint get cracked in guns with a lvl 7 bolt. These were barrel breaks mostly too and not breach.

  10. #10
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    Great comments so far. Exactly what I would say. I used an old Halo on a Level 7 mag for probably five years (right feed, not powerfeed), and I rarely had barrel breaks. At least no more than my Level 10 mag. But I tend to use cheap, hard paint. If you're using more brittle paint, Level 10 is slightly better.

    Still, I have a hard time justifying the upgrade. You can get a nice force-feeding loader for less than $50 used. You can't buy a Level 10 for that much. Also, you usually need to buy a new reg piston to go with the Level 10, and there's more to maintain and trouble-shoot if something breaks. If you have the time and money, it's not too bad, but if you just want to keep things cheap and simple, stick with the Level 7.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rawbutter View Post
    Great comments so far. Exactly what I would say. I used an old Halo on a Level 7 mag for probably five years (right feed, not powerfeed), and I rarely had barrel breaks. At least no more than my Level 10 mag. But I tend to use cheap, hard paint. If you're using more brittle paint, Level 10 is slightly better.

    Still, I have a hard time justifying the upgrade. You can get a nice force-feeding loader for less than $50 used. You can't buy a Level 10 for that much. Also, you usually need to buy a new reg piston to go with the Level 10, and there's more to maintain and trouble-shoot if something breaks. If you have the time and money, it's not too bad, but if you just want to keep things cheap and simple, stick with the Level 7.
    Are you in Va? Big weather difference between there and where I am in the N.E. Paint sucks here this time of the year

  12. #12
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    I'm in Northern Indiana, I would use my CVO in the winter, my mag would be for days over 50'ish F probably, unless I knew I was running some thick shelled stock.

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