Got an important question for yall!

[hostage]

Okay my mag is missfiring really bad all of a sudden. I field striped it down yesterday and put the parts in an old valve to test it. It seems now that I was jinxed by doing that.

The question is I there are two small orings which fit are above the on/off valve in the gun. Do they fit into on another flush, or does the smaller one stick out a little bit? I am thinking I need a parts kit, though let me know. The only other big change was I added a nitro tank onto it. Though we tested it the day before i striped my gun down and it worked great.

BTW I have a 68 mag that is 7 years old with a booyaah frame and nitro.

Thanx guys!
-Hostage

[davej946]

Hey Bud,
You might need the High Pressure spring pack since you went to nitro. I was running my mag on C0₂ and moved to nitro with the same problems. Once I replaced the spring pack in the reg with the HP one from AGD, my problems were solved.

I don't think AGD has a LP vs HP spring pack anymore. I would imaging that they are all HP now that Nitro is so prevalent. Give the office a call and they can get you what you need.

Good Luck ~ Dave

[rx2]

Have you shot your Mag with your Nitro set up before experiencing these problems? I ask because I have a Mag from 93 that is running on HPA just fine, and I have had to replace nothing. I have put a couple of cases through it so far (after switching from CO2), and everything works as it should.
Also, what exactly do you mean by misfiring? Clearing that up might help diagnose things

[RT_Luver]

yea....most likely a new spring pack would do the trick

[hostage]

Hmm....that might make sense, but before I bought that nitro tank, I tested it with the owner before I bought it. I shot about 800 shots threw it just with the air and then about 50-75 paintballs to check out to see if I have a constent velocity.

After that he gave me a "broken mag" and i brought it home and put all the parts that it was missing from my gun and into that gun. After I ran into problems with no air, i took all the parts and placed them back in my gun. Including the orings inside the on/off valve. It was missing a few parts to it, ie bolt springs and on/off valve. So I wanted to see if I could get it working.

Well let me know. BTW how much does a spring set cost and where can i get one from?

Thanx,
Hostage

P.S. A friend told me to oil the bolt, I think it helped for a little bit.

[rx2]

I am not familiar with what incurs after the use of HPA on a very old mag, but it would seem to me that if you had tested it, and it worked properly, before taking it apart, then the problem may not lie with the air.
I know that this may sound stupid, but first make sure that everything has been put back the way it should. Everyone seems to overlook something once in a while.
Make sure that you have assembled the on/off correctly by following the diagram on the bolt. The two o-rings at the top may or may not be concentric. Sometimes they do not sit inside of eachother, and sometimes they do. Either way, it should still work.
Check the power tube next. You should have the o-ring, spacer (or spring), and then the tip. You may need to adjust it by means of the AGD spacer kit. I have a friend whose MiniMag would fire fine 90% of the time, but would fail miserably anytime he went to a field. The bolt was not sealing correctly on the power tube o-ring. He swapped out the old spring for a spacer, and his rig shoots fine now.
For reference, his bolt would sometimes stick. Other times, it would not seal, and then sputter, or stick open.

Also, if you have removed the reg seat (the o-ring like device that sits between the two valve halfs), then this might need to be replaced. Sometimes extreme velocity fluctations can cause things to malfunction. I once had a spike that somehow blew the power tube o-ring past the spring and up onto the bolt, causing the gun to fail.

If all else fails, you might just need a new spring-pack.

[hostage]

Okay i think i might have figured it out. The gauge on the nitro tank is at 2000, though i can press down on the valve and barely any air comes out. I think the guy never really filled it up all the way on the second day. Cause the guy who filled it up didn't know about the offset gauge. Though how would it fire for about 400 rounds and mostly shoot good. Maybe it is the spacer problem... The oring between the valve looks okay when i last looked at it.

Ill double check everything else, all i took at was the two orings from the on/off valve and the front narrow part oring, spring and front brass part.

Lastly the two orings looked like they went into each other flush now, so when i get air i will try it if not i will start changing springs or what not out. What should be my next course of action?

Thanx buds again

-Hostage

BTW a friend thinks the bolt was sticking and it was doing what you were saying. If this doesn't work then i will get the spacers.....btw if i didn't need ti b4 then why do i need it now?

[rx2]

The tank pressure shouldn't be a problem. If it is preset, then it is probably regulated to 850 anyways (unless it gets REALLY low).
To check if the on/off o-rings are ok, gas up the gun. I don't think that the on/off pisont o-ring is the problem, so you shouldn't have to worry about that. Next, pull the trigger and hold it down. While you have it held down, hold your ear to the side of the valve and listen for leaking. If there is none, then you are fine here. If there is leaking, this can cause the valve to not shut off completely, thus allowing air into the chamber which can cause the bolt to not seal properly. This would call for an o-ring replacement.
Anyhow, if there is no leaking, then you should check the power-tube.
De-gas the gun.
The o-ring that you removed from the front is the power-tube o-ring. I can't say for certain why it might be giving you trouble now as opposed to before. I would check the o-ring to make sure that there are no nicks or anything. Also, when everything is together, and you slide your bolt on, there should be a gap at between the back of the bolt and the valve body (which are separated by the blue bumper).
If the o-ring has damage, or the bolt slides all the way back with no effort, you might have a bad o-ring, and that might be all that needs to be replaced.
If the o-ring looks fine, it is possible that removing the spring caused some sort of failure (sometimes old springs can do strange things). So, this might not allow the bolt to seal properly, and it would need to be replaced by a spacer.
I should also note that sometimes the bolt spring (that slide over the bolt) can get worn. Check to see that it extends perhaps a quarter to half inch past the face of the bolt. If it is compressed, it will not allow the bolt to seal properly, causing bolt stick.