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Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #1201
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    57
    I traded for an E-Mag not too long ago and I don't think the LVL 10 was completely installed... I'm thinking that just the bolt and part of the kit was done...not sure though since i didn't get any parts with the gun...
    is there a LVL 10 parts kit or rebuild kit available?
    Owner and builder of the one and only CryoCocker and the worlds fastest pump gun.

  2. #1202
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    michigan.
    Posts
    772

    first mag issues...

    this is my first mag:

    x valve
    lvx
    ult
    right feed steel mainbody
    preset (high output) crossfire 68/3000

    i am using the shortesd lvx spring, three spacers, the carrier with one line and one dot (not sure of the number designation), a brand new tight fitting o ring, and i have the flat white backing washer at the very back of the power tube. the ult has six spacers. everything is well oiled. the carrier/o ring combination is the loosest fit that doesn't leak. my velocity is ~ 2.5 turns from bottomin out

    now that you know that... when i pull the trigger, occasionally the bolt will proceed halfway across the feed neck opening and vent air. this usually happens when i try to walk the trigger, or in testing, when i pull the trigger and then pull it again very slowly. all of this is without paint, when i cycle the marker with paint it double feeds and breaks paint in the barrel. please tell me what is going on.

    i figure, if anyone can help, it's you. as i saw in another thread, you are the manual.

    sorry for the phone book. thanks in advance.

    p.s. i bought the marker on Ebay, then bought a very slightly used factory assembled tac one, i decided that i didn't like the look of it and took the x valve (ult pre installed) and put it into my other mag.
    Last edited by ultralight; 02-24-2005 at 10:48 AM.

  3. #1203
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,351
    Check your nubbin. If it is broken, it could be casuing the bolt to fetch up and the balls to be breaking.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  4. #1204
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    michigan.
    Posts
    772
    nubbins look kind of old but they are still in one piece. they're the plastic ones.

  5. #1205
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    1,358
    anyone help me with my problem,its posted on bottom on page40
    Modulate me
    Its oh so typical
    Excite me

    Don't focus on the obvious so much that you miss out on the little things...cuz those little things do matter. Wanna run fast? Hey, more power to you...but don't forget to be quick. Wanna shoot fast? Hey, great...but don't forget to be accurate. Wanna react fast? Super...then don't argue with yourself. In the meantime, have fun, play Paintball, and rock on!

  6. #1206

    hot shot

    rt pro
    ule body
    x valve
    lv 10
    ule trigger pull kit


    my rt pro ule costom is doing this thing where pressure builds up and then it will shoot a ball at like 350 fps. ive tried turnignthe velocity down but it soesnt seem to help. HELP ME OUT PLEASE. PM ME IF U CAN HELP
    IM LISDEXIC
    me-> ---- <-- ur best friend u-->
    everybody else in the world

  7. #1207
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,351
    brain: Your problem is a bad regulator seat o-ring.

  8. #1208
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,351
    Ultralight: check how far into the barrel the nubbims are protruding. If the barrel is loose fitting or the nubbin back is worn, it is possible that the nubbin is not going into the barrel far enough. This would allow the balls to double feed and cause chop problems. The loose fitting barrel can cause the barrel to not fit properly which could cause the level 10 to kick in when dry firing.

  9. #1209
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    michigan.
    Posts
    772
    barrel is nice and tight, nubbin is in there far enough. the barrel is a cf jj ceramic if that makes any difference. i think that the reason i get some double feeding is that when it "burps", bolt comes half way across the feed opening and then vents, it pushes the first ball past the detent and then the next successful shot fires them both.

    the real problem is the "burps". when i pull the trigger too slowly or pull it partially, the bolt starts "burping". please help. thanks

    and thanks for the help up to this point.

  10. #1210
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Burbank, CA USA
    Posts
    1,275
    Quote Originally Posted by harpo568
    I traded for an E-Mag not too long ago and I don't think the LVL 10 was completely installed... I'm thinking that just the bolt and part of the kit was done...not sure though since i didn't get any parts with the gun...
    is there a LVL 10 parts kit or rebuild kit available?

    all level 10 parts can be found here. Level 10 Parts @ Airgun store

  11. #1211
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Burbank, CA USA
    Posts
    1,275
    Quote Originally Posted by ultralight
    this is my first mag:

    x valve
    lvx
    ult
    right feed steel mainbody
    preset (high output) crossfire 68/3000

    i am using the shortesd lvx spring, three spacers, the carrier with one line and one dot (not sure of the number designation), a brand new tight fitting o ring, and i have the flat white backing washer at the very back of the power tube. the ult has six spacers. everything is well oiled. the carrier/o ring combination is the loosest fit that doesn't leak. my velocity is ~ 2.5 turns from bottomin out

    now that you know that... when i pull the trigger, occasionally the bolt will proceed halfway across the feed neck opening and vent air. this usually happens when i try to walk the trigger, or in testing, when i pull the trigger and then pull it again very slowly. all of this is without paint, when i cycle the marker with paint it double feeds and breaks paint in the barrel. please tell me what is going on.

    i figure, if anyone can help, it's you. as i saw in another thread, you are the manual.

    sorry for the phone book. thanks in advance.

    p.s. i bought the marker on Ebay, then bought a very slightly used factory assembled tac one, i decided that i didn't like the look of it and took the x valve (ult pre installed) and put it into my other mag.
    Remove 2 shims from the ULT. Too many shims will cause shooting problems and leaks.

    Try using only 2 shims in the Level 10.

  12. #1212

    xvalve with lvlx

    i upgraded to the xvalve and it came with the lvlx
    when i gas it up, there are no leaks but it still chops
    i started out with no shims and have added up to 4 with no luck
    i also used different springs, any suggestion?

  13. #1213

    Similiar issues

    I just bought a Xvalved mag w/ lvl 10 kit and the ULT trigger kit installed. It chrono's relatively consistently (some drop-off to around 250, but mostly 290, 285, 290, 290) I have evreything working the way I want it to EXCEPT for the fact that every undisclosed amount of rounds through the gun, the bolt won't re-engage the sear, and the gun won't fire unleass I insert a straightshot down the barrel to reset the bolt. That's not reliability. That's me getting bunkered while I'm pleading with my gun to give me 5 more shots. Sometimes if I flick the triggerit'll reset....but when I NEEDED it to, it didn't. I have 4 shims on the on/off valve and two shims/1.5 carrier on the Power Tube Assembly and the mediu, spring. Will adding more shims to the on/off help with the consistency of the bolt reengaging the sear? Any suggestions would be great, thanks

  14. #1214
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,351
    Usually, bolt stick is caused by a carrier that is too tight. Remove all the shims. Use a slightly larger carrier (the largest one that doesn't leak). Once that is done, the bolt should not stick forward and the velocity dropoff should be better as well. Get the level 10 adjusted and then you can tweak the ULT for a better more crisp trigger pull as well.

  15. #1215
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    Usually, bolt stick is caused by a carrier that is too tight. Remove all the shims. Use a slightly larger carrier (the largest one that doesn't leak). Once that is done, the bolt should not stick forward and the velocity dropoff should be better as well. Get the level 10 adjusted and then you can tweak the ULT for a better more crisp trigger pull as well.
    SOunds good..back to the workbench it is. I'll give it a try Athomas, thanks for the advice

  16. #1216

    Angry bolt stick&rapid fire

    Quote Originally Posted by AGD
    Guys,

    Post your LVL10 issues here we will try to help.

    AGD
    i just bought a new x-valve from agd, i installed it, shot it, it was fine. played the following week-end the gun done good all except some times the gun would not fire i could point the gun at the ground it would shoot .so i figured i had too small of a carrier.changed to the next size carrier(this is the only thing i changed)gased up the gun now when i fire the bolt sticks foward and if the bolt doesnt stick it fires like 2 or 3 times.....whats going on here

  17. #1217
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Yorkshire, UK
    Posts
    14

    Exclamation bolt stick

    hi all,

    This is my set up at the mo:

    New Tac-one
    Lv10- longest spring
    Snug carrier- one line on it, i have moved up one from no lines and the next one after this i think is too loose
    2 shims in Lv10- from standard
    285-295 fps
    800 psi input
    ULT- 7shims
    Sear- 1mm from trigger

    Well the problem is that when i fire the gun it will work fine sometimes but every now and then the spring will not push the bolt back fully in to place and push the sear back against the trigger. What i have to do is take my hopper off and push the bolt back with my finger a few mm's until it clicks in place. I have oiled all the nessercerry parts and oil in the ASA but i think it is a carrier problem, maybe i'm wrong, but i can't think of anything else but the oring might need to be worn in as it is a new gun (put about 500 balls through it up until now). But also could it be that i have too many shims in the ULT??

    I will have to experiment this week end when i get more air but dose ne1 have ne ideas??

    Thanks, finchyo

  18. #1218
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,351
    It could be either the carrier or the ULT. As the carrier o-ring gets broken in, it will become more loose and should work better as time goes on. Therefore, it is more likely that the ULT is causing your problems than the level 10. Since you have tried the different carriers and have settled on one that you deem to be the correct size, try removing 1 shim from the ULT first.

    When sizing your carrier, remove all shims from the level 10. Then use the largest carrier that does not leak.

  19. #1219

    carriers...

    just curious... what do you use to pop the carrier out?? i've been having a hard time switching between carriers and i've sliced some o-rings on the threads, even after oiling it up?

  20. #1220
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,351
    Use the field strip screw. Put the screw end into center of the carrier. Put some side pressure on the screw and gently pull the carrier out of the powertube.

  21. #1221
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Yorkshire, UK
    Posts
    14

    Springs?

    Hi all,

    With my lvl ten have a small gold one, and then two roughly the same size, a red on and a silver one.

    Can someone tell me why the three springs and which one to use. I have always used the silver spring at 285-295 fps.

    thanks, finchyo

  22. #1222
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,351
    The gold spring is the stock spring for level 7 and the lightest spring on the level 10. Red is the middle tension spring on the level 10 and the silver is the stiffest spring on the level 10.

    Gold = most impact
    red = less impact
    silver = least impact

    The object is to use the stiffest spring that will allow your mag to fire consistently without hesitation and within your desired velocity range.. If you can use the silver spring with no firing issues, then you are using the proper one for your setup.

  23. #1223
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    77

    Question lv 10 spring change

    Hey mag guys, I've got a micromag and just installed a lv 10. I'm currently using 1.5 carrier, gold spring and 2 shims. I am trying to make it a bit softer on paint so I put in the red spring. I had to turn up the velocity for it to shoot, but when I test the anti chop with a pen it hits way harder than with the gold spring. It hardly seems to vent at all with the red spring. Whats the deal?

  24. #1224
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,351
    Quote Originally Posted by Stoble
    Hey mag guys, I've got a micromag and just installed a lv 10. I'm currently using 1.5 carrier, gold spring and 2 shims. I am trying to make it a bit softer on paint so I put in the red spring. I had to turn up the velocity for it to shoot, but when I test the anti chop with a pen it hits way harder than with the gold spring. It hardly seems to vent at all with the red spring. Whats the deal?
    Using a pen doesn't work too well. It is too thin. The level 10 bolt only works in the first 1/4" of the breach. Once the bolt moves past that point, it goes to full force in order to maintain a fast cycling speed. I'll bet that if you put a squeegie or some object against the bolt face through the front, it will be quite soft.

  25. #1225
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    South Central Minnesota
    Posts
    67
    hello, I'm new to the autmag and this would be my first AGD product, I have been having some problems with it as of now though. I have a Stock ULE R/T custom with X-valve and a powerlyte speedline barrell, other than that it stock. (just ordered it 2-3 weeks ago)
    My problem is, when I hook up the HPA bottle, it dumps air out like mad and doesn't stop untill I pull the trigger, then it stops, but when I release it, it proceeds to dumping air again.

    Thanks for your help!
    Scooter AKA Mag newbie!

  26. #1226
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,351
    Its good that it stops when you hold the trigger. That means the problem is in the powertube of the valve. A leak down the barrel usually indicates too many shims or a carrier that is too loose. The first step to diagnosing the probelm is to remove all the shims from the level 10 setup. If it still leaks, then check the carrier and o-ring. Test fit the carrier and o-ring onto the stem of the bolt. It should be snug but not tight. Try the next size smaller carrier than the one you are using now. Make sure you use the same o-ring.

  27. #1227
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    South Central Minnesota
    Posts
    67
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    Its good that it stops when you hold the trigger. That means the problem is in the powertube of the valve. A leak down the barrel usually indicates too many shims or a carrier that is too loose. The first step to diagnosing the probelm is to remove all the shims from the level 10 setup. If it still leaks, then check the carrier and o-ring. Test fit the carrier and o-ring onto the stem of the bolt. It should be snug but not tight. Try the next size smaller carrier than the one you are using now. Make sure you use the same o-ring.
    I used the smallest carrier in the kit and it leaks no more, tonite however I will try to take out some of the shims (I have 2 as per instructions in there) and put the next largest carrier in! thank you!

  28. #1228
    After reading through the entire level 10 thread (41 pages), I found no one with this same problem-so I thought it necessitated a post. I have a minimag with a male stab reg, gas thru stock, remote, and 20 oz Co2. Level 10 works great for like 50 shots +/- 3 fps, beautiful but then the bolt stops fully cycling... kinda like when I degas the remote and fire until not enough gas is left in the lines for a full cycle. Have tried every possible combo of spring/carrier/shim it always happens. Was wondering what you guys thought? I think that it might have to do with the tank chilling but the stab shows consistent pressure and the gun reg isnt noticeably cold so liquid isnt jacking with my gun... just ran out of ideas.

  29. #1229
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    South Central Minnesota
    Posts
    67
    my guess, from what I know which isn't a lot is to put the next bigger carrier in, correct all you mag nerds?

  30. #1230
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Warbird U
    Posts
    1,017
    Since your using a minimag with a twistlock barrel. replace the two barrel o-rings. What it sounds like is the orings are worn allowing the barrel to wobble slightly causing the bolt to stick.
    I went through this on an old power feed during the beta test of the lvl 10.
    A proud Canadian EH

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