Page 45 of 76 FirstFirst ... 3541424344454647484955 ... LastLast
Results 1,321 to 1,350 of 2264

Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #1321
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    1,254
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    Using the middle spring, you are probably setting the velocity too close to the lower end of the operating range. This would cause the inconsistency you are seeing. Once the carrier oring is properly broken in, these fluctuations will go away. Until then, you may want to use the short bolt spring. The other option is to cut the long spring down to act as a shorter version of the middle spring. The proper spring allows the ideal velocity setting to make the gun shoot 20fps above the lowest velocity at which the gun stops shooting.
    I am trying to chrono at 280 fps. Is that to low for the medium spring?

  2. #1322
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Quote Originally Posted by 11 Bravo
    I am trying to chrono at 280 fps. Is that to low for the medium spring?
    Each persons setup will be different. Generally, most people use the middle spring.

    If you want to know the ideal setup for operation at 280fps, turn the velocity down until the gun won't shoot at all. Then turn the velocity adjuster up until it fires. Check the velocity. If the velocity is 250 - 270, then operating the gun at 280 is ideal. If the velocity is below 250 then you may want to consider using a longer spring. If the velocity is above 270, then you may want to use the next shorter spring. These numbers are for reference only. You may want to run your gun closer to the "edge" to get the bolt impact as soft as possible (ie; gun starts to work at 275 fps when you are shooting at 280fps). This will cause the odd chuff if the valve isn't fully charged when the next shot is fired under rapid fire conditions or if any debris interfers with the bolt operation.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  3. #1323

    e grip and level ten

    I installed the level ten on my classic 68 with e grip. The marker would not fire after repeated tuning. Finally figured out that the solenoid/piston in the e grip was not able to activate the switch. The marker/level ten works great with the stock grip and trigger assy on it. Any possible solutions to make the egrip work?

  4. #1324
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Did the egrip come with an on-off assembly? The standard on-off from the classic valve requires a lot of force to activate, especially with the level 10. You need a special on-off assembly. A retro valve on-off assembly will cut the required force in half without any special tuning and should work in place of the stock one quite nicely.

  5. #1325
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    Did the egrip come with an on-off assembly? The standard on-off from the classic valve requires a lot of force to activate, especially with the level 10. You need a special on-off assembly. A retro valve on-off assembly will cut the required force in half without any special tuning and should work in place of the stock one quite nicely.
    Thanks for the Info. I did have a different switch in the marker when I first installed the Lvl 10. It has a smaller diameter on/off pin and an on/off top that lets more air through than the original. Unfortunately the marker would not fire with this switch installed either.I recently re-oringed everything and did not have one of the orings for the other switch, so I put the original back in. I will try it again if I can get an oring for it. The oring that I need seals the on/off pin to the on/off bottom. Any idea where one ia available? Thanks
    Last edited by asower; 10-27-2005 at 12:19 PM.

  6. #1326
    Quote Originally Posted by asower
    Thanks for the Info. I did have a different switch in the marker when I first installed the Lvl 10. It has a smaller diameter on/off pin and an on/off top that lets more air through than the original. Unfortunately the marker would not fire with this switch installed either.I recently re-oringed everything and did not have one of the orings for the other switch, so I put the original back in. I will try it again if I can get an oring for it. The oring that I need seals the on/off pin to the on/off bottom. Any idea where one is available? Thanks
    I check the AGD online store. The retro on/off that is pictured does not look like the on/off that I have. The pin looks the same but the top and bottom are different. I dont think that the orings pictured will work either. Do you think it would be my best bet to buy the whole assembly?

  7. #1327
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Deep in the recesses of Northern Virginia
    Posts
    1,346
    ok, Having a slight issue with mine.

    It seems a little . . . . ah, rough. It hasn't chopped one, but it pinched it. Its been so long since I had installed (when they first came out) that I don't remember how to fix it or make it more sensitive.

    Little help?

    EDIT - one other thing. When I unscrew the air, pulling the trigger as I twist, it sounds like air is escaping down the bolt/barrel.
    Last edited by slateman; 10-30-2005 at 02:47 PM.
    BrockSampson "I see dead people..."



    and once I see them, I make sweet, sweet love...

  8. #1328
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    27

    Low fps?????

    hello everyone,
    i'm having a problem with my automag. i installed the lvl 10 this year and i have been using it with no problems. the only problem that i have is that i can get it no where near 300fps, i could only get it to 260-270 before it start leaking through the back. any suggestions where i can begin??

  9. #1329
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Barrie,Ontario Canada
    Posts
    427

    Hey Bro

    Which bolt spring are you using ? Use either the middle or the longest one.And you should get the 280 fps you need.
    THE YOGSTER STRIKES AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!
    Feedback
    Team Matrix

  10. #1330
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Quote Originally Posted by slateman
    ok, Having a slight issue with mine.

    It seems a little . . . . ah, rough. It hasn't chopped one, but it pinched it. Its been so long since I had installed (when they first came out) that I don't remember how to fix it or make it more sensitive.

    Little help?

    EDIT - one other thing. When I unscrew the air, pulling the trigger as I twist, it sounds like air is escaping down the bolt/barrel.
    Pinching is what it does. It should reset though. If it doesn't then you may need to add a shim or two. If the spring is old and/or worn, it may need to be replaced. The springs do need to be replaced over time.

    If you need to make the bolt force softer on paint, then use a stiffer/longer spring.

    The valves will hold air after you remove the air source. That is normal.

  11. #1331
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Quote Originally Posted by MAGnificents
    hello everyone,
    i'm having a problem with my automag. i installed the lvl 10 this year and i have been using it with no problems. the only problem that i have is that i can get it no where near 300fps, i could only get it to 260-270 before it start leaking through the back. any suggestions where i can begin??
    You need a new higher pressure regulator piston assembly.

  12. #1332

    Tip broke off

    I just openend my RT-pro and found myself looking at the valve without the brass tip on the bolt side of it. I found it in the level 10 bolt. I think it broke off during a game, I had some drop off the last game so I was looking for the problem but this ain't good and easy to fix. The tip broke at the place where the O-ring grove is. How can I get it out and more importent where (I live in the Netherlands) and how do I get a new one? Has anybody else had this problem?

    EDIT:
    Just got the broken off tip out off the valve (it was so loose in the valve that I could just turn it out with the pliers tip from my Leatherman)
    Last edited by Redmer; 11-01-2005 at 10:31 AM.

  13. #1333
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Youngstown & Cincinnati Ohio
    Posts
    1,913
    Help....how do i get the o ring carrier out of my powertube to change the carrier size....it's stuck...any ideas that wont hurt anything?
    Last edited by neppo1345; 11-01-2005 at 01:35 PM.

  14. #1334
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Quote Originally Posted by neppo1345
    Help....how do i get the o ring carrier out of my powertube to change the carrier size....it's stuck...any ideas that wont hurt anything?
    Use the field strip screw. Stick it down the powertube and when you remove it with a bit of sideways pressure, the carrier and oring will come with it.

  15. #1335
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    27

    thats a start

    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    You need a new higher pressure regulator piston assembly.
    athomas, i just removed the whole lvl 10, so everything is back to factory ,went to the chrono and was able to get to 300 with no problems. would you still suggest in getting a new piston assembly either way, i really want to get this lvl 10 working.

  16. #1336
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    The level 10 requires a higher operating pressure than the level 7, which causes the regulator piston assembly to vent out the back.

  17. #1337
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    27

    help me......

    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    The level 10 requires a higher operating pressure than the level 7, which causes the regulator piston assembly to vent out the back.
    Regulator Piston Assembly Part Number: 000684-10 : athomas, is this the one I need, if not where can I find the one your talking about.
    http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fu...o&productID=30

  18. #1338
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Yes, that is the regulator piston assembly.

  19. #1339
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Dirty South
    Posts
    515
    Some how the center shaft off of my lvl 10 bolt came out and was lost, its the part that would go inside the different size carriers. I don't know how it came out, I thought it was one piece. Is this repairable or do I have to buy a new bolt. Thanks
    Some ghost come from the afterlife, some send you there.
    Tom Clancy's Ghost Recon 2

  20. #1340
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Gainesville
    Posts
    321
    i have a hyperframe on my mag and the level 10 doesnt seem to keep up. if i shoot slow everything works fine, when i walk it slow it works fine, but as soon as a realy start to get on the trigger it starts chuffing, double feeding and breaking paint. i know i have the short spring in there, but not sure what carrier or the amount of shims. how can i get my level 10 to keep up?

  21. #1341
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Nor*Cal
    Posts
    1,383
    when i rapid fire on my x-valve, the level 10 doesn't always stop a chop. would adding another shim or two solve this? there are only two in it right now, and i dont have any more to expirament with.
    upgrade fund: $145

  22. #1342
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Quote Originally Posted by CJ55
    Some how the center shaft off of my lvl 10 bolt came out and was lost, its the part that would go inside the different size carriers. I don't know how it came out, I thought it was one piece. Is this repairable or do I have to buy a new bolt. Thanks
    The bolt stem is a separate piece in the level 10 bolt. It is press fit in. On some rare occasions, it does come out. It should be covered under warrantee. Get a hold of AGD. They may have an answer for you on this one.

  23. #1343
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Quote Originally Posted by wanna-b-ballin'
    when i rapid fire on my x-valve, the level 10 doesn't always stop a chop. would adding another shim or two solve this? there are only two in it right now, and i dont have any more to expirament with.
    Shims do not affect the ability to chop or not. They only affect how far the bolt has to move before it can be reset after a stopage.

    If you are having chopping issues, use a stiffer bolt spring.

  24. #1344
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Come all without, come all within, You'll not see nothing like the mighty Quinn
    Posts
    289
    I can't seem to get my level 10 tuned right. My rt came factory tuned with the shortest spring in, 2 shims, and the smallest carrier. I first tried switching out for the next largest carrier, but it leaked. I then tried putting in the middle spring. Chrono'd at 280, the bolt doesn't seem to fully recock and the trigger does not get resut unless I hold the trigger down a couple seconds or push the bolt back with my finger. With the lightest spring I still get chops, but I can barely shoot with the middle one. Should I take wire cutters and cut a little off of the middle spring?

  25. #1345
    I'm having a slight problem. I got my level 10 working great except for one thing. When I put my finger into the barrel, and try to fire 4 out of 5 times it will stop, then reset itself, which is good. But 1 out of 5 times it will hit my finger and stop, and continure leaking air until I reset it with my figure. What do I do?

    1.0 Carrier
    2 shims
    Largest Spring.

  26. #1346
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Quote Originally Posted by pachytriton
    I can't seem to get my level 10 tuned right. My rt came factory tuned with the shortest spring in, 2 shims, and the smallest carrier. I first tried switching out for the next largest carrier, but it leaked. I then tried putting in the middle spring. Chrono'd at 280, the bolt doesn't seem to fully recock and the trigger does not get resut unless I hold the trigger down a couple seconds or push the bolt back with my finger. With the lightest spring I still get chops, but I can barely shoot with the middle one. Should I take wire cutters and cut a little off of the middle spring?
    You are definately getting bolt stick. Try using the next larger carrier, but take the shims out when you put it in. If it still leaks try a different oring in the carrier and go through the tuning process from scratch (again, without shims).

  27. #1347
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Quote Originally Posted by areoreo37
    I'm having a slight problem. I got my level 10 working great except for one thing. When I put my finger into the barrel, and try to fire 4 out of 5 times it will stop, then reset itself, which is good. But 1 out of 5 times it will hit my finger and stop, and continure leaking air until I reset it with my figure. What do I do?

    1.0 Carrier
    2 shims
    Largest Spring.
    Sounds like bolt stick. If there was no leaking I would say its not enough shims, but the leaking through the vent hole would indicate a carrier that was too tight.

    Do you have a ULT? If so, it is also possible that the ULT tuning could cause your problem.

  28. #1348

    What spring / setup for 230 FPS ?

    Hi

    I need too set my X-Mag at shoting 230 FPS for indoor play and reball, not only that , its a small field.

    What spring is best too use at this, right now i can shoot eggs with my gun, but at reball it dossent work well, so im thinking it can be as hard it wants on the ball but as low fps as i can get.

    What spring will hit the ball hardest?

    Any suggestions?

    Thx
    Kent
    NYX #145

  29. #1349
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    The short gold spring works best for low velocity settings. It is also the hardest on paint. At low velocity settings it won't be as hard on paint due to the lower chamber pressures.

  30. #1350
    Thx for replay, i changed the spring too the gold one, and got it down too 230-240 fps and shoting just fine.

    Thx for helping

    Kent

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •