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Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #1471
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pronby
    Alright, so here it is: I bought a lvl 10 kit from a friend (it was still fresh-new) but it doesn't work. I have put in all the necissary parts but it happends **** when I pull the trigger. I feel a resistence in the trigger but it won't fire. If I turn up the velocity it gets harder but it refuses to fire. It fired once, with one of the longer springs and the velocity at max, but then the regulator ****ed away and the started to flow out of every hole on the marker.

    So, what is the problem? how do I solve it? or should I just get something more simple that I can't break, like a Angel?

    (By the way, I'm so sorry for my bad English.)
    It sounds like you are probably getting bolt stick due to your carrier being too tight.

    Properly size the carrier first. The carrier and oring should slide onto the bolt stem without much resistance, but should not slide on its own when held in a vertical position. Don't use shims when first tuning your level 10. That way you will know that any leaks are caused by the carrier rather than too many shims.

    Use the shortest bolt spring first. That way you will be able to make sure the gun will actually fire, even if the carrier is a little too tight. The shorter bolt spring is a little more forgiving. Once you have the tuning of the carrier size done, you can go to a longer bolt spring and fine tune the operation knowing that it does work.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  2. #1472
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    It sounds like you are probably getting bolt stick due to your carrier being too tight.

    Properly size the carrier first. The carrier and oring should slide onto the bolt stem without much resistance, but should not slide on its own when held in a vertical position. Don't use shims when first tuning your level 10. That way you will know that any leaks are caused by the carrier rather than too many shims.

    Use the shortest bolt spring first. That way you will be able to make sure the gun will actually fire, even if the carrier is a little too tight. The shorter bolt spring is a little more forgiving. Once you have the tuning of the carrier size done, you can go to a longer bolt spring and fine tune the operation knowing that it does work.
    Ok, I check this asap. Thx mate.
    I'm a Swede, please excuse my language.

    Playing in Gothenburg Aftermath

  3. #1473
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    Damn, I'm stupid. I thought of the outside size of the carrier, not the inside. Now I've got one that is working. Till next week this little baby should be rocking. Thanks again mate!

  4. #1474
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    not sure if this is a problem with ult or lvl 10 but, it seems when i fire fast, and possably short stroke it alittle that the bolt wount reset, i get reactivity in the trigger but it wont fire, i have to take off the tank and put it back up, could this have somthing to do with the lvl 10?
    thanks
    its an emag valve by the way, but not on an emag and has ult.
    thanks guys
    t

  5. #1475
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    It could definately be either. Try removing a shim from the ULT first. Then, if it still persists, go with the next size larger carrier. Remove the powertube shims first. If you get it working, you can put the powertube shims back in later.

  6. #1476
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    I would appreciate fast help! I have a tourney this weekend and my hopes and dreams were to kick a$$ with my Micromag. It's a lvl10 Micromag.

    I've installed the lvl 10 "properly", since last sunday (when I installed it) a managed to shoot Cronic 420 without chopping. It worked perfectly.
    Yesterday when I gassed up it started to leak down the barrel and sometimes when I fired it seemed like I was short-stroking. Turning the velocity up or down doesn't make crap.
    I've checked the internals, the carrier have got the perfect size, one size bigger is too big and one size smaller is too small. I've tested to both add and remove shims. I've tried with one, two and three shims. No difference att all.
    I've lubricated everthing that might need some too.

    About the "short-stroking".
    Sometimes it happend when shooting "fast" (about 3 bps) and one time I shoot about twenty rounds and them all sounded like I was short-stroking.

    I might add that I was only shooting empty air, but I've tried a few rounds with real balls too. Same effect.

    This is really annoying, especially when it worked perfect last sunday. And that I've got a tourney this weekend dosen't make it better.

  7. #1477
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pronby
    I would appreciate fast help! I have a tourney this weekend and my hopes and dreams were to kick a$$ with my Micromag. It's a lvl10 Micromag.

    I've installed the lvl 10 "properly", since last sunday (when I installed it) a managed to shoot Cronic 420 without chopping. It worked perfectly.
    Yesterday when I gassed up it started to leak down the barrel and sometimes when I fired it seemed like I was short-stroking. Turning the velocity up or down doesn't make crap.
    I've checked the internals, the carrier have got the perfect size, one size bigger is too big and one size smaller is too small. I've tested to both add and remove shims. I've tried with one, two and three shims. No difference att all.
    I've lubricated everthing that might need some too.

    About the "short-stroking".
    Sometimes it happend when shooting "fast" (about 3 bps) and one time I shoot about twenty rounds and them all sounded like I was short-stroking.

    I might add that I was only shooting empty air, but I've tried a few rounds with real balls too. Same effect.

    This is really annoying, especially when it worked perfect last sunday. And that I've got a tourney this weekend dosen't make it better.
    Note, this is probably not the problem since it was working before, but it is a suggestion to check anyway. Are you sure the level 10 fits the body properly? Some level 10 bolts are tight in the mictomag bodies. You may have to take a piece of sandpaper and polish the front lip of the bolt to make it fit properly.

    What bolt spring are you using? Try the short gold one that came with the bolt. It will give you the best chance of operation. You can move to the red spring after you ensure the system works. If by chance, you put your original bolt spring in, you could be getting bolt stick due to a worn spring.

  8. #1478
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    Note, this is probably not the problem since it was working before, but it is a suggestion to check anyway. Are you sure the level 10 fits the body properly? Some level 10 bolts are tight in the mictomag bodies. You may have to take a piece of sandpaper and polish the front lip of the bolt to make it fit properly.

    What bolt spring are you using? Try the short gold one that came with the bolt. It will give you the best chance of operation. You can move to the red spring after you ensure the system works. If by chance, you put your original bolt spring in, you could be getting bolt stick due to a worn spring.

    I didn't have time to check this before the weekend but I went fine anyway since a teammate lended me his Ion.

    I'm using the red one but I'll switch and check it. The other long spring, what's the diffrence between that and the red one?

    As I said I'll check this as soon as I have air. Which will be on sunday, if I'm lucky.

  9. #1479
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pronby
    I'm using the red one but I'll switch and check it. The other long spring, what's the diffrence between that and the red one?
    The long silver spring is stiffer than the red one. It will make the bolt move with less force than the red at the same velocity setting. The short gold spring will make the bolt move with more force at the same velocity setting.

    The carrier size is your most important setting in the level 10 setup.

  10. #1480
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    The long silver spring is stiffer than the red one. It will make the bolt move with less force than the red at the same velocity setting. The short gold spring will make the bolt move with more force at the same velocity setting.

    The carrier size is your most important setting in the level 10 setup.

    Aight, then I know. So if I change the spring I don't need to recalibrate the velocity?

    Yeah, and now I really have the most perfect size. As I said earlier, one size bigger is away too big, one size smaller is away too small.

  11. #1481
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pronby
    Aight, then I know. So if I change the spring I don't need to recalibrate the velocity?

    Yeah, and now I really have the most perfect size. As I said earlier, one size bigger is away too big, one size smaller is away too small.
    You do need to readjust the velocity when you change springs. When I referred to the "same velocity setting", I was meaning "the same velocity". I should have been more clear.

    This is a great site for paintball information. Lots of smart people with technical skills.

  12. #1482
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    You do need to readjust the velocity when you change springs. When I referred to the "same velocity setting", I was meaning "the same velocity". I should have been more clear.

    This is a great site for paintball information. Lots of smart people with technical skills.
    Ah, then I'm with ya.

    Hehe, I know, that's why I'm here. Well, I do not belong to the "smart people with technical skills", I belong to the ones seeking information. And sometimes it works.

  13. #1483
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    tech Question

    hello everyone. I lhave a power feed body for a 68 automag with a xvlave, i also have a standard feed body. I am asking will a level 10 bolt cancel out blowback? if so is a power feed body not needed? i hope so it is so much easier to aim with a standared feed body.

    thanks. nathan
    Last edited by nathanjones008; 11-23-2006 at 09:59 PM. Reason: incorrect grammer

  14. #1484
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    Quote Originally Posted by AGD
    Guys,

    Post your LVL10 issues here we will try to help.

    AGD


    Hello,

    I don't know if its the level 10, plastic nubbin in the barrel, or something different, but please help!!!!


    I keep breaking paint and shootin out multiple balls. I just put on a new plastic nubbin so thats not the problem. Sometimes when I hold the gun down a ball will roll out after I shoot the gun. Sometimes 2 or 3 balls will come out at once. What is happening?

    Thanks,
    Mike

  15. #1485
    Quote Originally Posted by The_Don_83
    Hello,

    I don't know if its the level 10, plastic nubbin in the barrel, or something different, but please help!!!!


    I keep breaking paint and shootin out multiple balls. I just put on a new plastic nubbin so thats not the problem. Sometimes when I hold the gun down a ball will roll out after I shoot the gun. Sometimes 2 or 3 balls will come out at once. What is happening?

    Thanks,
    Mike
    that's a sign of weak ball detents (in your case nubbins). what barell do you use? is it made by agd? or is it aftermarket?

  16. #1486
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Don_83
    Hello,

    I don't know if its the level 10, plastic nubbin in the barrel, or something different, but please help!!!!


    I keep breaking paint and shootin out multiple balls. I just put on a new plastic nubbin so thats not the problem. Sometimes when I hold the gun down a ball will roll out after I shoot the gun. Sometimes 2 or 3 balls will come out at once. What is happening?

    Thanks,
    Mike
    Depending on the barrel, the plastic nubbins may not protrude through far enough. This could be exaggerated if you are using a small bore paint in a large bore barrel. Check that your nubbins are fitting properly. You can feel them inside the barrel when the barrel is out of the gun. You can also test fit the balls to see if they are indeed rolling past.

  17. #1487

    won't reset.

    I got an RT pro for christmas. The guy I bought it from said it had been sittin up for a while. I aired it up when I got it pullled the trigger a couple of times and it shot. Pulled it off the air and tore it down to check all the internals. Cleanrd it and put it back together. It holds air but it does not seem like the bolt is resetting. It has absolutely nothing on the trigger. When i take it off safe the trigger goes all the way to the frame and it will not fire...
    Any suggestions??????????????????/

  18. #1488
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    turn up your velocity, and if you have a ult, mess with that, and then turn up the velocity.

  19. #1489
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    Definately turn up the velocity as a first step. If it still doesn't reset then you may need to take it apart again and check that you put the parts and orings back in in the proper places and in the correct orientation.

  20. #1490

    Exclamation Help, air coming out the back

    I've had an automag rt pro for a couple of years now but never took it apart. I am trying to install the level 10. I followed the directions from this site and now air automatically and periodically comes out the back hole where you can adjust the velocity. Can someone please help me?

    Mike

  21. #1491
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    Quote Originally Posted by peadison
    I've had an automag rt pro for a couple of years now but never took it apart. I am trying to install the level 10. I followed the directions from this site and now air automatically and periodically comes out the back hole where you can adjust the velocity. Can someone please help me?

    Mike
    How old is your RT Pro? It sounds like your regulator piston assembly is weak. The level 10 bolt system requires that the air in the chamber be at a higher pressure. The higher pressure can be higher than the safety bleed pressure of older regulator piston assemblies. By installing one of the newer high pressure assemblies, your problem will be fixed.

    Before you do that, take the assembly out and clean it and the back of the valve to remove any dirt that may be causing problems.

  22. #1492
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    How old is your RT Pro? It sounds like your regulator piston assembly is weak. The level 10 bolt system requires that the air in the chamber be at a higher pressure. The higher pressure can be higher than the safety bleed pressure of older regulator piston assemblies. By installing one of the newer high pressure assemblies, your problem will be fixed.

    Before you do that, take the assembly out and clean it and the back of the valve to remove any dirt that may be causing problems.


    I bought it from a friend almost 3 years ago and he had it for like 1-2 before that. I didnt have any problems the 50+ times I've played with it since I bought it before trying to install the level 10. I followed the directions given from this site. I've taken it apart and tried again. Both times it shoots out air periodically and rapidly from the back hole where you adjust the velocity. At first nothing was happening, even when I pulled the trigger. I raised the velocity after reading some posts here and then the air coming out the back started to happen.

  23. #1493
    Quote Originally Posted by peadison
    I've had an automag rt pro for a couple of years now but never took it apart. I am trying to install the level 10. I followed the directions from this site and now air automatically and periodically comes out the back hole where you can adjust the velocity. Can someone please help me?

    Mike

    UPDATE
    After reading more posts from this site, I have the same but a new issue now. I am no longer leaking air down the back through the velocity adjuster and its no longer periodic. I am leakiong constantly down the barrel and its pretty strong. I can fire the gun several times even though it is leaking down the barrel. I'm not a big gun techie so can someone please help? Greatly appreciated, Mike

  24. #1494
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    peadison: You have a pre-level 10 valve with the low pressure regulator piston assembly. You will need a newer high pressure regulator piston assembly to work properly with the level 10 bolt. You can reduce the problem until a new assembly arrives by using a shorter bolt spring.

    The constant leaking out the front, even though you can still shoot the gun, means you probably have too many shims in the powertube. Remove all shims when setting the level 10 bolt system up. If it still leaks, then use the next smaller carrier with the same powertube carrier oring.

  25. #1495
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    OK, I don't know how I didn't see this tread but here is my problem --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I've been fighting with my LX for a while now and I've decided that I need help. I've got the carier with two lines on the bottom and one on the top in it, three shims, and what appears to be the longest spring. And it shoots fine, an occasional leak that goes away when you fire it that I figure is just the O-ring needing to be broken it or something, but anyway my problem is it still has way more than enough force to chop a ball, if I turn the velocity down to 220 or so it works great but at 280 it's still too hard. Does anyone have any ideas how I could fix this?
    Bryce Eden
    Millennium Paintball Vernal Division
    www.mpaintball.com

  26. #1496
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    Quote Originally Posted by bryceeden
    OK, I don't know how I didn't see this tread but here is my problem --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    I've been fighting with my LX for a while now and I've decided that I need help. I've got the carier with two lines on the bottom and one on the top in it, three shims, and what appears to be the longest spring. And it shoots fine, an occasional leak that goes away when you fire it that I figure is just the O-ring needing to be broken it or something, but anyway my problem is it still has way more than enough force to chop a ball, if I turn the velocity down to 220 or so it works great but at 280 it's still too hard. Does anyone have any ideas how I could fix this?
    Try removing a shim or two to stop the periodic leak. If you are using the longest spring, I am surprised you are able to get the gun to cycle at a velocity setting of 220fps. Most of the time you can't even get the red middle spring to shoot that low.

    Is your longest spring a grey one? Try the red spring (which is the middle one), just in case your longest spring is weak.

  27. #1497
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    peadison: You have a pre-level 10 valve with the low pressure regulator piston assembly. You will need a newer high pressure regulator piston assembly to work properly with the level 10 bolt. You can reduce the problem until a new assembly arrives by using a shorter bolt spring.

    The constant leaking out the front, even though you can still shoot the gun, means you probably have too many shims in the powertube. Remove all shims when setting the level 10 bolt system up. If it still leaks, then use the next smaller carrier with the same powertube carrier oring.

    I only have the 1 shim the directions say to put in. I havent added the others yet since I havent determined what type of leak it is according to the instructions. I am already using the shortest spring given by the level 10 kit. So now what do I do? I think I'm going to bring it to a shop to be fixed.

  28. #1498
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    Quote Originally Posted by peadison
    I only have the 1 shim the directions say to put in. I havent added the others yet since I havent determined what type of leak it is according to the instructions. I am already using the shortest spring given by the level 10 kit. So now what do I do? I think I'm going to bring it to a shop to be fixed.
    Buy a new regulator piston assembly first. That will fix your leak out the back. Then you will be able to use the longer spring for softer operation.

    As for the leak out the front, remove all the shims, even the one you have left. If it still leaks, use the next smaller carrier with the same powertube oring.
    Last edited by athomas; 01-03-2007 at 08:00 PM. Reason: spelling error

  29. #1499

    Bolt stick and gas leak Level 10

    I installed a level 10 kit on my hyperframed micromag and its worked good for a while(I dont play that much though) and a month ago I was playing and had to use CO2 until I got my nitro tank Hydro tested. And while I was playing the bolt started sticking and gas would escape down the barrel really quick and I would have to push the bolt back to get the gas to stop leaking I fiddled a bunch with the velocity and changed my on/off orings hoping I could get it work and it would'nt. Thinkin it was the CO2 I finally got my nitro tank back and tried it but my gun would still do the same thing, Ok so now Im thinkin that my level 10 kit has reached its breakin point so I used the troubleshooting guide on my level 10 CD. My original Conf was a 2.5 carrier with 2 shims. I tried a 2 carrier with same oring, then with new oring, then took out shims and then added shims, while adjusting through the range of velocity each time I tried something different. It did'nt leak as bad and the bolt would now recock when I changed this stuff but it still would'nt shoot just little gas puffs when I pulled the trigger. Im tired of spending money on 60 mile drives to my paintball field and nitro fills. I dont know if this is a problem with my level 10 kit or maybey the CO2 messed up my gun up but I had used CO2 on my gun before and its never messed up like this and my on/off pin looks fine. Please help me if you can.

  30. #1500
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    What valve do you have on that thing?

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