Phase IIOriginally Posted by FA22RaptorF22
Phase IIOriginally Posted by FA22RaptorF22
getsomemorrison: Go back to the 2.5 carrier with the original oring. If the bolt is sticking you need a bigger carrier not a smaller one. Replace the bolt spring. If it weakens over time they will cause bolt stick. Bolt springs are consumable items that need to be replaced every once in a while.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Ive tried the my origianl 2.5 carrier but I did try a longer bolt spring and now it doesnt shoot at all so I tried stretching the one I had in it(short one) out a little bit and then It would just make little puffs like when it bounces of a ball then I tried tapping on the regulator while I was adjusting through the velocity and it started blowin down the barral again, I dont know what to do now Im out of air agian have to wait to get more air. You would think as much trouble as Im have a person would just sell the thing but I dont want to part with my mag.Originally Posted by athomas
You need to have the velocity adjuster turned in quite a bit more when you use a longer bolt spring. If you can never get it to shoot, or if it only shoots at a velocity that is much too high, then maybe you should cut a coil off the long spring. This would work until you get a new proper length bolt spring. The original middle bolt springs were cut springs when the level 10 first came out. Just make sure the cut end faces towards the bolt.Originally Posted by getsomemorrison
If you are using the original bolt spring, even stretched it won't work properly if it is worn out.
Originally Posted by athomas
Is this what you suggested?
Airgun Designs Automag High Pressure Piston from www.actionvillage.com
Or this one because the images do not look the same:
Last edited by peadison; 01-13-2007 at 09:27 PM.
It should be the right one. Technically, they are all "high pressure" piston assemblies. We just refer to the older ones as low pressure because they are lower than the newest ones.Originally Posted by peadison
Changing over to a level 10 bolt required more mags to need a new assembly than switching over to HPA. Essentially, HPA requires the mag to operate at the same pressure as CO2. The level 10 however, required a much higher chamber pressure and thus required a new assembly on a lot of mags.
Through out the course of tring to get my gun to work I have adjusted the velocity up all the way even when I tried the longer spring. I am to the point that Im going to send it to airgun to be looked at. I dont know what else to do.Originally Posted by athomas
I just got a new on/off valve for my mag becuase I put e-mag lowers on it. Before it shot fine in mech, now it is double firing and the lvx isn't chuffing. Any ideas? Also it leaks an insane amount of air. HELP!
Last edited by Desega; 01-16-2007 at 04:53 PM.
I can't feel my toes . . .
Brenden (Desega) and I worked on his marker today and I think I found the problem. He was missing the oring that sits on top of the on/off. I put a ring in where it should go, but I think it might be the wrong size. The gun now fires in mech mode, but not e-mode. I told him to order some quad o-rings, will that fix his problem?
Millennium Paintball Vernal Division
This is no longer a level 10 issue. Put this information under its own heading here in the tech section. Give all details of the setup and operation.Originally Posted by bryceeden
Check the operation of the eframe to make sure the trigger is activating the HES. You don't need to have the gun aired up for this. Remove the valve and hold your finger down on the hole where the sear contacts the on-off pin. You can feel the movement when you fire and can return the sear with your finger.
Hi, so heres my problem... I have been chopping paint like crazy with this bolt. I have the perfect sized carrier and everything, but it still chops paint. One thing i did notice when installing the bolt was that it reseted itself without me adding shims, could this be the problem? I can hear the bolt stopping when a ball gets pinched, but after the second or third ball it will chop it. help me out here please.
Tour setup is working properly if it resets when it stops on a ball or object in the breach. Most people, including myself, never use shims in their setup.Originally Posted by automagman2000
Chopping could be caused by a weak detent or nubbin which could cause double feeds. Are you sure you are chopping and not getting barrel breaks. Barrel breaks are common if you use brittle paint that is too small for the bore you are using.
Originally Posted by athomas
Yeah im pretty sure its the bolt. could the detent be the reason the bolt chops? cause i cant shoot it fast without choppin paint
Yes, the detent could be your problem.Originally Posted by automagman2000
I've had my Tac-One for a year and a half. Its great outdoors where I can shoot it at 290 FPS, but indoors, it sucks.
I get bolt stick after bolt stick. Now it won't even fire at higher levels.
I want to be able to fire it regularly at 230 FPS to 280 FPS without changing springs or anything like that.
Any ideas guys? I would seriously appreciate it. If I can't fix it, I'm just going to sell it and get a Tippmann.
Use the short spring. Its the one that will work at low fps. It also works well at a higher fps, but is a little harder than the red spring. For most paint, you won't notice a difference. Make sure you have the loosest fitting carrier that doesn't leak. Check the fit without any shims installed. When shooting at low fps, you can maintain a higher chamber operating pressure by using a really short or really long barrel.Originally Posted by Guerra
Finally find out what the problem was.
Last edited by uluru; 02-12-2007 at 06:28 PM.
Prior to getting ULT, my level 10 was working great...hadn't had a break and felt pretty good. I just installed ULT and the bolt seems to be hitting a lot harder when I test to see if the bolt is still reseting like it was before. Would my ULT affect this or is my pressure too high? thanks guys
The ULT doesn't affect the impact of the level 10. Make sure you are holding against the bolt when it is all the way back. If you allow the bolt to come 1/4" forward, it hits much harder because it is past the small part of the level 10 bolt stem.Originally Posted by slackerwil
I have had my TAC-1 for about 6 months. About 3 months ago, it started firing by it's self when I gased it up. The saftey is alway on and it only happens about every other time. A gun-smith told me to oil one of the small O-rings inside the bolt, but this did not help. I will try it again, but I need other ideas.
Hold the trigger when gassing up. It allows the orings to seat themselves better when air is applied.Originally Posted by DBC
If you are using a ULT, you might want to remove a shim.
Hold the trigger with the saftey off or on? (I do have ULT.) Can you point me to another thread that explains how to remove a shim?Originally Posted by athomas
Hod the trigger with the safety off. That way it makes sure the front chamber is closed.Originally Posted by DBC
Remove a ULT shim by separating the two halves of the ULT. The shims go between the two halves.
Hey AO, I tried to skim through the first pages of this thread looking for my issue but I didn't find anything that solved it and I don't have time to read through 51 pages (I did try to do a search but it's hard to find a specific case) so here's my problem. On both my Classic RT (w/ a lvlx) and a newly acquired Xvalve both will only shoot on the shortest spring. They will sometimes shoot with the medium spring but other times it will just chuff, and to get it to shoot reliably it will be in the 300fps range (too high obviously). My classic RT has a brand new regulator piston in it and neither vent. Any ideas on how to get the medium spring working in these babies? Thanks!
If the medium spring is too stiff and makes the guns shoot at a velocity that is too high when shooting reliably, then the short spring is the one you need. Just because you use the short spring, doesn't mean you get any less protection. It just means your setup demands the use of the shorter spring to get the softness in the velocity range that you are shooting.Originally Posted by Automagrt666
If you feel the short spring is still allowing too much impact and the middle spring is too stiff to allow reliable operation, you can snip a coil off the middle spring. It will remove some of the tension allow you to tune the operating range down a bit. Make sure you put the cut edge against the bolt.
Well is there any reason that I have 2 valves that require the small spring while most people can use the medium spring? is there some part that I need to change?
The fact that both valves require the small spring is even more of an indication that everything is normal. If they were both different, then I would be more concerned that something is wrong with one of the setups. Your setup, the barrel length and id, combined with the size and mass of the balls you are using is probably a very efficient combination allowing you to use a lower pressure in the mag chamber. The lower chamber pressure means you have less force applied to the bolt spring, which translates into less impact force that the bolt has on the ball even with the short spring.Originally Posted by Automagrt666
Test your setup by putting a squeegie down the barrel against the face of the bolt. Fire the mag. You can get a feel for the impact on the ball. Make sure the squeegie is against the face of the bolt. If the distance between the squeegie and the bolt is greater than 1/4", it will hit hard like a level 7 bolt.
I just spent about 4 hours installing and reinstalling, and reinstalling the lvl 10 in my micromag. with the stock bolt and setup, it works great, when I put the lvl 10 in, in any configuration, it does nothing. No leaks, nothing. Trigger is unresponsive. but I can feel air on it. Please help, as I am ready to pull my hair out. Also it feels like when the bolt slides all the way down on the powertube, regardless of which carrier I use that it "snaps" into place when all the way down. Could this be keeping it from moving forward. Help.
Without any shims installed, what is the largest carrier you can use without any leaks? Use the shortest brass bolt spring when starting off. Don't forget to turn the velocity up.Originally Posted by Bangalore
Make sure the bolt fits and slides freely in the breach of the micomag. Some micromags had breaches which were tight for the level 10 bolts. If this is so with yours, you will have to sand the outer tip of the bolt just a bit. It doesn't take much.
I have put all of the carriers in, even the largest (one with four grooves) and dont have any leaks. I tried the one wiht 2 mostly. My velocity is as far up as it will go. I have tried the bolt with just the spring on it, and can use my finger to slide it and it moves freely, but once I put the valve and reg in with the level 10, it just sits there at the back of the breach. The trigger feelslike it has air, but not solid, kind of like what I expect it should feel like with the level 10 pinching a ball., but when I pull the trigger, nothing, and when I say nothing, I mean nothing, no sound, no leaks, no response at all. When I put everything back stock, it rocks as usual. Any ideas. Is it possilbe that the bolt is getting stuck on the powertube somehow, because it just doesn't feel very free when it bottoms out. Incidentally, when the piston inside the bolt grows in size,( about halfway up the bolt) noe of the carriers will fit over. Im sure that is normal, but I'm desperate for an answer.