Page 56 of 76 FirstFirst ... 64652535455565758596066 ... LastLast
Results 1,651 to 1,680 of 2264

Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #1651
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by Skiddz
    is it unusual to switch to the smallest carrier? By smallest i mean the smallest carrier you are given.

    Also can you outshoot the mag? I had some paintballs get shot so fast that i had some kind of drop out. I broke some paint but looked in the breech and nothing. In fact the barrel was clean up until the tip.

    So those are some questions i wanted cleared up. Also i'm not sure if my level 10 is tuned right still. I've tried the paper trick and the paintball on tape trick but none proved my theory.

    The only reason im on the smallest is because after i shot a hopper or so through my tac-one the gun started slightly leaking from the barrel.

    (this tac one is fairly new. only 2 cases through it)
    If the valve develops a leak out the front and removing a shim doesn't help, then definately drop a carrier size. You should be fine. If you start getting bolt stick, change orings and retune.

    If your mag is working properly, you can't outshoot it. Your fingers aren't fast enough. If you get a ball barely rolling out the barrel, then you have some part of the cycle that did not function properly. Also, your detents could be allowing paint to roll farther down you barrel so that it doesn't accelerate properly.

    Broken paint in the barrel but not in the breach or feed tube is generally one of two things. It could be bad paint or your barrel is too tight for the paint you are using.

    If you want to get a feel for how hard the bolt is hitting, put a squeegie against the bolt face and fire the gun.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  2. #1652

    Level X questions

    I have a Level X on my retro valved minimag. I was using the smallest spring, but was getting some chops. I only had the short spring in because if my fields velocity limits, but I found out that the middle spring could probably get low enough. Well I put the middle spring on an made no change in my velocity adjustment. When I went to go test it I had alot of chuffs and balls rolling out the barrel and one break. Then I cleaned up my mag and turned the velocity up a little and it seemed to greatly help the chuffing. I had a little still so maybe I need to turn it up more? I have no chronograph so I have no idea how fast its going. Is this normal. Was the chuffing just me needing to turn up the velocity after spring install?


    _barry

  3. #1653
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by phatty123
    I have a Level X on my retro valved minimag. I was using the smallest spring, but was getting some chops. I only had the short spring in because if my fields velocity limits, but I found out that the middle spring could probably get low enough. Well I put the middle spring on an made no change in my velocity adjustment. When I went to go test it I had alot of chuffs and balls rolling out the barrel and one break. Then I cleaned up my mag and turned the velocity up a little and it seemed to greatly help the chuffing. I had a little still so maybe I need to turn it up more? I have no chronograph so I have no idea how fast its going. Is this normal. Was the chuffing just me needing to turn up the velocity after spring install?


    _barry
    When you install the longer, stiffer spring, you need to increase the velocity setting to maintain consistent operation. Unfortunately, that will probably increase the minimum velocity that your gun will shoot reliably at. If you have a low field limit, the middle spring may not allow you to shoot in the range that you want. For operational consistency, you should be shooting at about 20fps above the lowest velocity that the gun will shoot at. So, start low and gradually increase the velocity until the gun shoots. Measure the velocity. This value should be about 20fps below the value that you want to shoot at. If this value is less than 20fps below the desired velocity, then your gun won't shoot reliably at that velocity and you should use the next shorter spring.

    If your gun does operate reliably at the desired velocity setting with the middle spring, then use it.

    Are you getting chops or barrel breaks? If a ball is too big for the barrel, it can cause breaks during firing.

  4. #1654
    Well I went and chroned my marker today with the middle spring in. I was shooting about 320-330. I turned it down till i was shooting at about 280-285 fps. The problem that the first time i pul thr trigger is a chuff or the ball falls out the end of the barrel. All other shots are perfecrt. Then I stop shooting for a sec then pull the trigger and it chuffs/loads a ball then the second pull fires it. The velocity should be high enough for it not to chuff and why only on the 1st trigger pull? I broke a few balls as well, but that could of been the fact they are a month or so old and also it was very cold. It was about 30-35 degrees at the paintball field. I dont think that is causing the chuffing since I'm using compressed air, but who knows. Well I would appreciate the help. It wasn't ever chuffing with the gold spring, but it chuffs the 1st shot and is shooting into the 280's with the red spring.


    Thanks,
    Barry

  5. #1655
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by phatty123
    Well I went and chroned my marker today with the middle spring in. I was shooting about 320-330. I turned it down till i was shooting at about 280-285 fps. The problem that the first time i pul thr trigger is a chuff or the ball falls out the end of the barrel. All other shots are perfecrt. Then I stop shooting for a sec then pull the trigger and it chuffs/loads a ball then the second pull fires it. The velocity should be high enough for it not to chuff and why only on the 1st trigger pull? I broke a few balls as well, but that could of been the fact they are a month or so old and also it was very cold. It was about 30-35 degrees at the paintball field. I dont think that is causing the chuffing since I'm using compressed air, but who knows. Well I would appreciate the help. It wasn't ever chuffing with the gold spring, but it chuffs the 1st shot and is shooting into the 280's with the red spring.


    Thanks,
    Barry
    What is the lowest velocity the gun will cycle at? Find that value and set the velocity 20 fps higher. This will be the lowest velocity setting to use. If it is too high, then you need to go to a shorter, lighter spring.

    A first shot chuff is usually an indication of a carrier that is too tight, but if you are shooting close to the minimum operating velocity with a new oring that is not broken in, that could also affect it. Once the bolt moves in the oring, all subsequent shots within a short time span will fire consistently. Its only after the bolt sits still for a while that it sticks to the bolt stem and requires a bit more force to break the bond. That is where the 20fps rule comes into play. If the powertube carrier is properly tuned for the oring in it, 20fps (higher forward force) will always break the bond between the oring and the bolt stem.

    If you are getting broken balls with a spring that barely allows the gun to fire, then the problem lies with the balls and/or barrel.

  6. #1656
    I that I have the number 1 carrier in there. Imoved down from the 1.5 because it started to leak. I will go back and check it when I get back to work on friday. Since I want to try playing if it isnt to cold.


    _barry

  7. #1657
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by phatty123
    I that I have the number 1 carrier in there. Imoved down from the 1.5 because it started to leak. I will go back and check it when I get back to work on friday. Since I want to try playing if it isnt to cold.


    _barry
    Remove all poweretube shims while checking for the proper carrier. If the 1.5 carrier leaks with all shims removed then the 1.0 carrier is the proper one.

  8. #1658
    I have been fooling arounf with this for some time. I had my level 10 working pretty good for awhile, then it started to leak. Well then I moved down a carrier. I started with the 1.5and gold spring then went down to the 1 with the gold spring. Again it functioned fine. Then the other day I wanted to try to put the middle spring in. Didnt work at all no matter how much I turned the velocity up it didnt fire correctly. Chuffs and broken balls. I put shims in then took them out changed oring and carrier sizes. I tried the oring that was working great in the 1 carrier and put it in the 1.5 and like originally with the gold spring it leaks. Back down to the 1.0 and it doesn't leak, but it doesn't even fire no matter what the velocity is set at. So i gave up and went back to the gold spring with the 1.0 carrier and the oring that is borken in. It doesn't leak, but chuffs on the 1st pull still. Then fires fine. Then if you let it sit for a few seconds it chuffs on the 1st pull again. This was killing me while i was playing today. I never got the "first shot" off. It would just chuff then reset the trigger then it would fire. I pretty much tired of this. What do I do now? I have a retro valve and 1200psi coming into my mag. It chuffs with balls or with out. I'm about to send this back to AGD. Its killing me. I have a warp feed and all balls are being chambered correctly.

    edit... when it chuffs and it loaded the ball just rolls out the end of the barrel. Also this problem is occuring at 280 fps, so I do not believe velocity is the problem.


    _barry

  9. #1659
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by phatty123
    I have been fooling arounf with this for some time. I had my level 10 working pretty good for awhile, then it started to leak. Well then I moved down a carrier. I started with the 1.5and gold spring then went down to the 1 with the gold spring. Again it functioned fine. Then the other day I wanted to try to put the middle spring in. Didnt work at all no matter how much I turned the velocity up it didnt fire correctly. Chuffs and broken balls. I put shims in then took them out changed oring and carrier sizes. I tried the oring that was working great in the 1 carrier and put it in the 1.5 and like originally with the gold spring it leaks. Back down to the 1.0 and it doesn't leak, but it doesn't even fire no matter what the velocity is set at. So i gave up and went back to the gold spring with the 1.0 carrier and the oring that is borken in. It doesn't leak, but chuffs on the 1st pull still. Then fires fine. Then if you let it sit for a few seconds it chuffs on the 1st pull again. This was killing me while i was playing today. I never got the "first shot" off. It would just chuff then reset the trigger then it would fire. I pretty much tired of this. What do I do now? I have a retro valve and 1200psi coming into my mag. It chuffs with balls or with out. I'm about to send this back to AGD. Its killing me. I have a warp feed and all balls are being chambered correctly.

    edit... when it chuffs and it loaded the ball just rolls out the end of the barrel. Also this problem is occuring at 280 fps, so I do not believe velocity is the problem.


    _barry
    The fps does not have an effect on the ability to fire. The chamber pressure does. However, the chamber pressure does affect the fps setup. Just because you are firing at 280fps doesn't mean you are set to the proper setting for your setup. Try turning up the velocity to 300fps using the setup that sort of works. That'll at least give you an idea if its a chamber pressure vs bolt spring issue.

    How is your ball to barrel fit? Can you put a ball in the barrel by hand and have it just barely touch on two opposite surfaces? If the barrel is too large, that is fine. If the barrel is tight on the balls, that could be part of your problem.

    If you change the white carrier orings, don't assume the same carrier sizes are going to work. You have to completely retune the setup.

  10. #1660
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Forest Park, IL
    Posts
    63
    I have put in a 2.0 carrier in and I have a leak out the back. what do I do?

  11. #1661
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by sup909
    I have put in a 2.0 carrier in and I have a leak out the back. what do I do?
    The carrier that you use has nothing to do with any leak out the back. A leak out the back generally means your chamber pressure is too high for the regulator piston assembly. Either your velocity setting is too high or your regulator piston assembly is an older unit that operates at a lower pressure than the newer ones. The level 10 bolts require a higher chamber pressure, so you may need a new higher pressure regulator piston assembly.

  12. #1662
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Forest Park, IL
    Posts
    63
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    The carrier that you use has nothing to do with any leak out the back. A leak out the back generally means your chamber pressure is too high for the regulator piston assembly. Either your velocity setting is too high or your regulator piston assembly is an older unit that operates at a lower pressure than the newer ones. The level 10 bolts require a higher chamber pressure, so you may need a new higher pressure regulator piston assembly.

    Hmm, so what exactly am I going to need to purchase to fix this?

  13. #1663
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by sup909
    Hmm, so what exactly am I going to need to purchase to fix this?
    What type of valve do you have? You should always have an oring kit for your valve.

    First give the valve back a good cleaning. The piston assembly may be fine but the oring around it may be leaking due to dirt. Then, clean the rest of the valve. If you have a classic valve, you should replace the regulator seat oring. For or both types of valves(retro and classic) replace orings as necessary. Most of the time they don't need to be replaced unless they are causing problems. If after the valve back is cleaned, it still leaks out the back, then you need a new regulator piston assembly.

  14. #1664
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Forest Park, IL
    Posts
    63
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    What type of valve do you have? You should always have an oring kit for your valve.

    First give the valve back a good cleaning. The piston assembly may be fine but the oring around it may be leaking due to dirt. Then, clean the rest of the valve. If you have a classic valve, you should replace the regulator seat oring. For or both types of valves(retro and classic) replace orings as necessary. Most of the time they don't need to be replaced unless they are causing problems. If after the valve back is cleaned, it still leaks out the back, then you need a new regulator piston assembly.

    I have a classic valve. It works fine on the LVL 7 bolt and it actually doesn't leak when the velocity screw is at its original setting when I installed the LVL 10. However the marker would not cock so I turned up the velocity screw as is said in the LVL 10 installation instructions. As soon as the bolt cocked "pshhst" the air comes rushing out the back.

    What sort of really burns me is that literally a week ago I ordered some more nubbins, foamies and some other misc parts. I don't want to spend another order with more shipping for a single valve part that I might need to order.

  15. #1665
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Summerfield, FL
    Posts
    1,131
    Quote Originally Posted by sup909
    I have a classic valve. It works fine on the LVL 7 bolt and it actually doesn't leak when the velocity screw is at its original setting when I installed the LVL 10. However the marker would not cock so I turned up the velocity screw as is said in the LVL 10 installation instructions. As soon as the bolt cocked "pshhst" the air comes rushing out the back.

    What sort of really burns me is that literally a week ago I ordered some more nubbins, foamies and some other misc parts. I don't want to spend another order with more shipping for a single valve part that I might need to order.
    Try a shorter bolt spring.

    By "the marker would not cock", do you mean that the bolt wouldn't go forward at all, it would chuff, it would go forward a tiny bit and vent (lvl 10 working), or that the trigger wouldn't reset?

  16. #1666
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by sup909
    I have a classic valve. It works fine on the LVL 7 bolt and it actually doesn't leak when the velocity screw is at its original setting when I installed the LVL 10. However the marker would not cock so I turned up the velocity screw as is said in the LVL 10 installation instructions. As soon as the bolt cocked "pshhst" the air comes rushing out the back.

    What sort of really burns me is that literally a week ago I ordered some more nubbins, foamies and some other misc parts. I don't want to spend another order with more shipping for a single valve part that I might need to order.
    When you turn up the velocity the bolt cocks because the chamber pressure exceeds the bolt spring pressure. Unfortunately, the chamber pressure also exceeds the release pressure of the regulator piston assembly. I think you may need to make an order for a regulator piston assembly.

  17. #1667
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Forest Park, IL
    Posts
    63
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    When you turn up the velocity the bolt cocks because the chamber pressure exceeds the bolt spring pressure. Unfortunately, the chamber pressure also exceeds the release pressure of the regulator piston assembly. I think you may need to make an order for a regulator piston assembly.
    Hmm, that is what I figured. Now just so I don't have to go through another headache process, is there any additional parts that I may need to order as well? Spring Pack Assembly or anything?

    Also does the Reg Piston come with an o-ring on it? I have a parts kit, but knowing would just be convenient.

  18. #1668
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by sup909
    Hmm, that is what I figured. Now just so I don't have to go through another headache process, is there any additional parts that I may need to order as well? Spring Pack Assembly or anything?

    Also does the Reg Piston come with an o-ring on it? I have a parts kit, but knowing would just be convenient.
    I don't think the regulator piston assembly comes with an oring. You don't need any spring packs. If you already have an oring kit, then you have everything you need to service your mag. The only part you need to order is the reg piston assembly, only because yours is an older low pressure design.

  19. #1669
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    I don't think the regulator piston assembly comes with an oring. You don't need any spring packs. If you already have an oring kit, then you have everything you need to service your mag. The only part you need to order is the reg piston assembly, only because yours is an older low pressure design.
    I ordered a regulator piston earlier this year, and unless i'm mistaken it came with an o-ring on it. This was for an RT though.

  20. #1670
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by snoopay700
    I ordered a regulator piston earlier this year, and unless i'm mistaken it came with an o-ring on it. This was for an RT though.
    I ordered one a couple of years ago. I can't remember if mine had one.

  21. #1671
    hi!

    I would like to get some help thinking about this:

    tac1 fairly new shot like 4 tanks of 88/4500psi through it and maybe 1 case of paint, think its great!


    I have moved on to the next tighter carrier with the same oring because of some leak after breaking it in, using shortest spring and still 2 shims like when i got it from AGD like 2 weeks ago, shoots from 200fps tried to 270 fps with no problem only a little rough on paint it will chop if i make it.
    Feeding it 1000-1100psi from maxflow i get some nice rt shooting.

    Now i want it to be gentler on paint so i tried the red spring turned up adjuster to get it to fire dont know fps here BUT there is a fine line between making it fire and not leaking out of the adjuster, it fires but all the reactivity is gone still feeding it 1100psi well its a bit more gentle this way so that works.
    also made sure the fieldstripscrew was not to tight, already run it to that to make sure its not to tightened.

    the other long grey spring does not fire until it leaks out of the adjuster and still no reactivity no clue about fps. very gentle when it shoots.

    So i changed back to the shortest spring and rt is screaming again does not matter if the adjuster way out there in far in, but its to rough on my finger this will chopely chopchop!paint not my finger!, dont worry been sticking my finger down there in many different markers, spyder,tippmanns,cockers, shoebox, angel v6, matrix i have had many of them tuned down to be gentle when cycling paint.

    What should i do? to make it gentle and keep my nice rt
    Last edited by TheRock; 12-21-2007 at 01:34 PM.

  22. #1672
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by TheRock
    hi!

    I would like to get some help thinking about this:

    tac1 fairly new shot like 4 tanks of 88/4500psi through it and maybe 1 case of paint, think its great!


    I have moved on to the next tighter carrier with the same oring because of some leak after breaking it in, using shortest spring and still 2 shims like when i got it from AGD like 2 weeks ago, shoots from 200fps tried to 270 fps with no problem only a little rough on paint it will chop if i make it.
    Feeding it 1000-1100psi from maxflow i get some nice rt shooting.

    Now i want it to be gentler on paint so i tried the red spring turned up adjuster to get it to fire dont know fps here BUT there is a fine line between making it fire and not leaking out of the adjuster, it fires but all the reactivity is gone still feeding it 1100psi well its a bit more gentle this way so that works.
    also made sure the fieldstripscrew was not to tight, already run it to that to make sure its not to tightened.

    the other long grey spring does not fire until it leaks out of the adjuster and still no reactivity no clue about fps. very gentle when it shoots.

    So i changed back to the shortest spring and rt is screaming again does not matter if the adjuster way out there in far in, but its to rough on my finger this will chopely chopchop!paint not my finger!, dont worry been sticking my finger down there in many different markers, spyder,tippmanns,cockers, shoebox, angel v6, matrix i have had many of them tuned down to be gentle when cycling paint.

    What should i do? to make it gentle and keep my nice rt
    The fact that it shoots at 200fps means it definately needs to use the red or silver spring. It should work fine at the chamber pressure required to fire at that velocity. It sounds like you have a weak regulator piston assembly. This usually only happens with older units. The newer ones are a higher pressure rating. Tac1's are new, so it should have a high pressure assembly.

    What type of barrel are you using, how long before the porting and what size is the inside diameter?

  23. #1673
    i use stock/rough inside barrel for now until my SLY will arrive.

    what should i do if its a weak regulator assembly? possible to shim it up? its should be good i got it from AGD 2 weeks ago valve says vv8399 on both parts.

  24. #1674
    Hi,

    I just got my new TacOne, and have question about the level 10. When I gas up, the marker is leaking down the barrel. When I pull the trigger, it fires, but while trigger is still pulled, it is still leaking (barrel). Also, the level 10 does not have an effect, if i block the bolt a little, it still fires full power. I donīt have a chrony yet, so I donīt know the speed. Input pressure is 850 psi.

    What do I have to do first ? I did already fire a 100 times with a little silicon oil, but this does not have an effect.

    It was wrong to thing, it would run out of the box I guess

    Iīve also read the manual, but I thought, Iīd ask first for better understanding...

    Regards,

    Skragan

  25. #1675
    I just found the level 10 guide - I will try that in the next few days and be back, if that doesnīt help

  26. #1676
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by Skragan
    Hi,

    I just got my new TacOne, and have question about the level 10. When I gas up, the marker is leaking down the barrel. When I pull the trigger, it fires, but while trigger is still pulled, it is still leaking (barrel). Also, the level 10 does not have an effect, if i block the bolt a little, it still fires full power. I donīt have a chrony yet, so I donīt know the speed. Input pressure is 850 psi.

    What do I have to do first ? I did already fire a 100 times with a little silicon oil, but this does not have an effect.

    It was wrong to thing, it would run out of the box I guess

    Iīve also read the manual, but I thought, Iīd ask first for better understanding...

    Regards,

    Skragan
    Remove the shims. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Make sure you use the same oring when trying different carriers.

    When testing, make sure you hold an item against the face of the bolt. If you hold it too far away from the bolt face, it will hit at full force.

  27. #1677
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by TheRock
    i use stock/rough inside barrel for now until my SLY will arrive.

    what should i do if its a weak regulator assembly? possible to shim it up? its should be good i got it from AGD 2 weeks ago valve says vv8399 on both parts.
    You bought it new from AGD two weeks ago? I assume it is an X-valve. Contact AGD. Have your invoice number and explain your situation. They should be able to send you a new reg piston assembly under warrantee. You may need to return the one that is in your gun now.

  28. #1678
    @athomas: I have fixed the leak doing what you told me - no shims. Now i have the 1nut1dot, after I had installed the 2nut carrier and doing a couple of hundred shots. Obviously, no leak anymore. I am using the longest (silver) spring.

    But, I still donīt have the level 10 effect. If I place a squegee with direct contact to the bold, it will just shoot it out, even if I give it quite much force. Do I have to add shims again or do I have to hold the squegee further away ?

    Thanks,

    Skragan

  29. #1679
    do you hold/stop the squiggie with your hand when you try it? if you dont it will shoot out. im doing my testing with my finger down in the breech dont use pinky then you can feel the diference the springs does.

  30. #1680
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,392
    Quote Originally Posted by Skragan
    But, I still donīt have the level 10 effect. If I place a squegee with direct contact to the bold, it will just shoot it out, even if I give it quite much force. Do I have to add shims again or do I have to hold the squegee further away ?

    Thanks,

    Skragan
    Don't add shims. The shims do nothing as far as reducing the force on the bolt. They only tune how far the bolt has to travel before it can release air in the event of a blockage.

    Holding the squeegie against the bolt face is the proper way to test the level 10. If you hold it farther away you will get full force. The level 10 effect is only meant to be engaged in the first 1/4" of bolt travel.

    When testing, hold the squeegie. Don't release it. A loose squeegie is like a projectile and will be shot out. Only if the squeegie doesn't move will the level 10 kick in and reset the bolt. The amount of force felt on the bolt should be fairly light. If it is high, then your chamber force is too high. What is your velocity setting?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •