Page 72 of 76 FirstFirst ... 2262686970717273747576 LastLast
Results 2,131 to 2,160 of 2264

Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #2131
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    4,146
    Yes. Unscrew it and they'll be the first thing you see down the PT. They sometimes stick to the bottom of the PT tip.

  2. #2132
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Western Massachusetts
    Posts
    141
    I have x valve, lvl x bolt, 1200psi ninja reg.

    Mag shoots fantastic, RT's like a gatling gun when I want it to. Will fire 1-3 balls with single trigger "plucking" (kinda like a guitar player to avoid too much time on the trigger.)

    BUT most of the time it has a small leak down the barrel that goes away with light pressure on the trigger (go to a smaller spacer right?) the level x spacer that's there has no dots and no lines (which means it's the smallest one right?)

    So how do I fix this? put a new o-ring in and start from scratch with the lvlx tune?

    Thanks!

  3. #2133
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,368
    Quote Originally Posted by aerosaaber
    I have x valve, lvl x bolt, 1200psi ninja reg.

    Mag shoots fantastic, RT's like a gatling gun when I want it to. Will fire 1-3 balls with single trigger "plucking" (kinda like a guitar player to avoid too much time on the trigger.)

    BUT most of the time it has a small leak down the barrel that goes away with light pressure on the trigger (go to a smaller spacer right?) the level x spacer that's there has no dots and no lines (which means it's the smallest one right?)

    So how do I fix this? put a new o-ring in and start from scratch with the lvlx tune?

    Thanks!
    It sounds like you have the correct carrier installed now. The leak that goes away with slight pressure on the trigger is a result of too many shims installed in the powertube. Take them all out.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  4. #2134
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Western Massachusetts
    Posts
    141
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    It sounds like you have the correct carrier installed now. The leak that goes away with slight pressure on the trigger is a result of too many shims installed in the powertube. Take them all out.
    I don't think there are any spacers in there, only plastic washer type thing at the bottom. I'll have another look at it to be sure.

  5. #2135
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,368
    Quote Originally Posted by aerosaaber
    I don't think there are any spacers in there, only plastic washer type thing at the bottom. I'll have another look at it to be sure.
    If no shims are installed, another cause could be a worn sear or missing rail bushing.

  6. #2136
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Western Massachusetts
    Posts
    141
    sear is literally brand new and rail bushing is in place.
    still have to check for spacers hiding in there.

  7. #2137
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    seattle, washington... US
    Posts
    281
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    Due to friction, a tighter carrier would cause the oring to be pushed back farther when the bolt is at rest. If the vent hole is close to the oring , then it could leak. When you use the proper carrier, the oring fits properly and doesn't get pushed back so it doesn't expose the vent hole and leak. However, low pressure causes the oring not to seal as tight against the bolt stem. This is normally not a problem unless the oring is close to the vent hole. A loose fitting oring on the edge of the vent hole may allow some air to creep by. I think there is some wear in your assembly. probably on your sear. Also, check that your rail bushing is in place. It probably is, because there would be other issues if it was missing.
    what kind of issues would you see with a a missing rail bushing

  8. #2138
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,368
    Quote Originally Posted by stevewar
    what kind of issues would you see with a a missing rail bushing
    Generally, if the rail bushing is missing, it causes the level 10 bolt stem to be at the wrong location, but more importantly, the sear contacts the on-off pin at a different spot and at a different angle. It can cause timing issues and sticking. These can be very random because the valve can move back and forth the thickness of the bushing in both the forward and backwards direction. The total movement would be twice the thickness. Most of the time the bolt spring pushes the valve to the rear most position and it is held in place when the air charges the front chamber.

  9. #2139
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    seattle, washington... US
    Posts
    281
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    Generally, if the rail bushing is missing, it causes the level 10 bolt stem to be at the wrong location, but more importantly, the sear contacts the on-off pin at a different spot and at a different angle. It can cause timing issues and sticking. These can be very random because the valve can move back and forth the thickness of the bushing in both the forward and backwards direction. The total movement would be twice the thickness. Most of the time the bolt spring pushes the valve to the rear most position and it is held in place when the air charges the front chamber.
    I hate sounding so ignorant, so I appreciate your answers. The rail bushing is the one on the back of the rail correct, and not the twist lock thingy on the front

  10. #2140
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,368
    Quote Originally Posted by stevewar
    I hate sounding so ignorant, so I appreciate your answers. The rail bushing is the one on the back of the rail correct, and not the twist lock thingy on the front
    Correct.

    The person asking questions is never the ignorant one. The person who assumes the answer without asking the question is.

  11. #2141
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    10
    Ok, I have an issue with my Level 10 that I am hoping you guys can help me with. I have a 100% stock RT Pro with X Valve and Level 10 bolt. I am using a Ninja Air SHP reg with an output of approximately 1100 psi.

    The gun is able to RT with no trouble at all, which is great, but every so often my bolt will stick forward and de-gas. I picked the gun up used, so I don't have all the spare parts that came with the Level 10 when new, so not sure how to proceed. I do have an X Valve parts kit that had a few Level 10 items in it, including shims. The gun currently has 2 shims. I tried 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 shims and the best was 2, but still had the problem of the bolt sticking forward. I do not have different carriers to try.

    I have tried turning the velocity all the way up, but no change. Sometimes the bolt will return after it sticks forward and I can re-fire the gun, other times I have to use a squeegee to push it back. To me it almost seems as though the bolt spring is not strong enough to always return the bolt back. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.

    Thanks in advance.

  12. #2142
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    4,146
    Could be the spring but I would tune the lvl 10 first just to make sure you have it setup right. If you have a spare oring kit. Take the spare spring out and install it. That will alleviate the spring being the cause.

  13. #2143
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,368
    Quote Originally Posted by rparker35
    Ok, I have an issue with my Level 10 that I am hoping you guys can help me with. I have a 100% stock RT Pro with X Valve and Level 10 bolt. I am using a Ninja Air SHP reg with an output of approximately 1100 psi.

    The gun is able to RT with no trouble at all, which is great, but every so often my bolt will stick forward and de-gas. I picked the gun up used, so I don't have all the spare parts that came with the Level 10 when new, so not sure how to proceed. I do have an X Valve parts kit that had a few Level 10 items in it, including shims. The gun currently has 2 shims. I tried 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 shims and the best was 2, but still had the problem of the bolt sticking forward. I do not have different carriers to try.

    I have tried turning the velocity all the way up, but no change. Sometimes the bolt will return after it sticks forward and I can re-fire the gun, other times I have to use a squeegee to push it back. To me it almost seems as though the bolt spring is not strong enough to always return the bolt back. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.

    Thanks in advance.
    The shims don't do anything for your level 10. Adding shims helps the bolt vent air air sooner. If the bolt vents air in any way already, then shims won't help, but may make the problem worst. Take out all the shims when tuning your level 10 to prevent shim induced leaks.

    It does sound like you have bolt stick due to having a carrier size that is too tight. You need to get a larger carrier size. You should have an array of sizes so that you can correctly adjust the carrier oring tension of your level 10 oring and bolt setup. Without the proper carriers, you will be lucky to get it working properly.

  14. #2144
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    The shims don't do anything for your level 10. Adding shims helps the bolt vent air air sooner. If the bolt vents air in any way already, then shims won't help, but may make the problem worst. Take out all the shims when tuning your level 10 to prevent shim induced leaks.

    It does sound like you have bolt stick due to having a carrier size that is too tight. You need to get a larger carrier size. You should have an array of sizes so that you can correctly adjust the carrier oring tension of your level 10 oring and bolt setup. Without the proper carriers, you will be lucky to get it working properly.

    Thanks for the help everyone. Since I picked the gun up used, I don't have any different sized carriers. So, I just placed an order with AGD for a variety of carrier sizes, along with some sapre o-rings and a couple new springs. Hopefully once all that arrives I will be able to tune the Level 10 perfectly.

    Thanks again.


    UPDATE - Received the carriers, new spring, and other spare o-rings from AGD. I replaced all the o-rings in the power tube, removed the shims, added the new bolt spring, and then tried out different carriers until it was perfect. Gun now shoots very well with no leaking down the barrel and no bolt stick. Thanks for the help guys!
    Last edited by rparker35; 10-24-2011 at 08:17 AM.

  15. #2145
    Alright, so I got an x-valve a couple weeks ago and I've been having some problem tuning it. I got it to shoot pretty well now but if you hold the trigger, it'll leak for a couple seconds then stop. The level 10 works pretty darn well since I tried to shoot as fast as I could and nothing. I've shot a bunch and all I've gotten were barrel breaks not breech breaks. So any ideas on my problem with the little leaking? I'm using the .5 carrier size, the medium spring, and 2 shims. Thanks Tom.
    Last edited by DCx7; 12-05-2011 at 08:29 PM.

  16. #2146
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    nj
    Posts
    785
    Quote Originally Posted by DCx7
    Alright, so I got an x-valve a couple weeks ago and I've been having some problem tuning it. I got it to shoot pretty well now but if you hold the trigger, it'll leak for a couple seconds then stop. The level 10 works pretty darn well since I tried to shoot as fast as I could and nothing. I've shot a bunch and all I've gotten were barrel breaks not breech breaks. So any ideas on my problem with the little leaking? I'm using the .5 carrier size, the medium spring, and 2 shims. Thanks Tom.
    Take the shims out and recheck the leak. I run (like alot of guys here) 0 shims in the level 10 on 3 different RT valves, and 1 shim in my classic valve.

  17. #2147
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,368
    The tiny leak for a couple of seconds is normal for some level 10 setups if the sealing edge of the oring is close to the vent hole. It leaks until the oring gets pushed forward past the vent hole enough to seal the bolt stem. Remove the shims and it should go away. If not, then I wouldn't worry about it as long as it isn't a continuous leak.

  18. #2148
    Alright thanks guys, I'll check if there's anything else wrong when I fill up my tank.

  19. #2149
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    2,507
    Hey guys, I'm trying to fix up my wife's RTP and her LX hasn't been tuned for many years now and leaks down the power tube. I've also misplaced all the carriers, shims, spacers, orings, etc. If I may ask, what's the part list/count that normally comes with a new LX kit?

    I'd love to be able to order these parts from AGD and get it fixed ASAP. Thanks!
    "I just came for your mayonaise." ~ TooDamnSweet
    My Buyer/Trader Feedback
    Paintball's Best Photo Gallery: Jayloo.com
    My Jayloo Photos

  20. #2150
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,368
    Quote Originally Posted by gibby
    Hey guys, I'm trying to fix up my wife's RTP and her LX hasn't been tuned for many years now and leaks down the power tube. I've also misplaced all the carriers, shims, spacers, orings, etc. If I may ask, what's the part list/count that normally comes with a new LX kit?

    I'd love to be able to order these parts from AGD and get it fixed ASAP. Thanks!
    A new LX kit comes with everything needed for a level 10 installation. It includes the bolt, bolt springs, carriers, shims, powertube tip, orings. If you already have the level 10 bolt installed, all you need are some carriers, a bolt spring, and a few orings.

    You should order a range of carrier sizes from 0 to 2.5. You won't need to order the size that you already have installed. Order a couple of extra white carrier orings. Order at least one extra middle bolt spring(I think they are only available in long now) and a short one. Order a couple of shims (although you shouldn't ever have to install them unless there is a major tolerance issue with your sear/rail setup. You can still use them to shim your on-off assembly.

    You should also make sure you have a spare valve oring kit if you don't already have one.

    Take the shims out of the level 10 setup you have now. It might help.

  21. #2151
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    2,507
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    A new LX kit comes with everything needed for a level 10 installation. It includes the bolt, bolt springs, carriers, shims, powertube tip, orings. If you already have the level 10 bolt installed, all you need are some carriers, a bolt spring, and a few orings.

    You should order a range of carrier sizes from 0 to 2.5. You won't need to order the size that you already have installed. Order a couple of extra white carrier orings. Order at least one extra middle bolt spring(I think they are only available in long now) and a short one. Order a couple of shims (although you shouldn't ever have to install them unless there is a major tolerance issue with your sear/rail setup. You can still use them to shim your on-off assembly.

    You should also make sure you have a spare valve oring kit if you don't already have one.

    Take the shims out of the level 10 setup you have now. It might help.
    AWESOME! Thanks for the reply and the advice! I'll let you know if I have any issues.

  22. #2152
    Ok, I finally got my x-valve/level 10 perfectly tuned. I put a paintball with some tape on it, put it halfway in the breech, pulled the trigger, *CHUFF* and then it recocks, paintball perfectly fine. Also, I have a 45ci ninja tank and a a guerilla 62/3k steelie tank. With the steelie, it rips but with the ninja tank it just single balls and I can't get it to rt. The ninja tank is stock adjustable reg but it's set to 700-850ish psi output and the guerilla steelie is just a regular guerilla regulator. Will a difference of that much psi mean the difference between an rt and a single balling x-valve? Like if the ninja tank is at say....800 and the guerilla is at 850?

  23. #2153
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,368
    Quote Originally Posted by DCx7
    Ok, I finally got my x-valve/level 10 perfectly tuned. I put a paintball with some tape on it, put it halfway in the breech, pulled the trigger, *CHUFF* and then it recocks, paintball perfectly fine. Also, I have a 45ci ninja tank and a a guerilla 62/3k steelie tank. With the steelie, it rips but with the ninja tank it just single balls and I can't get it to rt. The ninja tank is stock adjustable reg but it's set to 700-850ish psi output and the guerilla steelie is just a regular guerilla regulator. Will a difference of that much psi mean the difference between an rt and a single balling x-valve? Like if the ninja tank is at say....800 and the guerilla is at 850?
    You need a higher pressure to become reactive, especially with a level 10 bolt system installed. Another part of the equation, is the flow rate of the regulator and air lines of the gun setup at the desired pressure output. High pressure flow rate is not affected as much by airline restrictions as lower pressures. The mag valve is not supposed to be reactive, but will be in its native state with a level 7 bolt and a high flow 850psi tank. Once you put a level 10 bolt on it and lower the input pressure, you reduce the reactivity by a large amount.

  24. #2154

    RT with level 10

    Ok guys I have a classic rt that I installed level ten on. On first air up I got leaks down the barrel after I pulled the trigger, pulling trigger again did not change anything. Took apart, change carrier, took out shims and put back together. Now I have no leaks but no trigger pull. When I air it up I feel the pressure and sear on the trigger, but when I pull the trigger I get no shot. There is a light tension on the trigger almost like its on a very weak spring when I pull it, trigger bounces back to be pulled again.

    So what am I over looking, sure its something simple.
    Thanks.

  25. #2155
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Kentucky
    Posts
    4,146
    Bump up your pressure. It take a little more to over come the lvl 10 and spring. If you have the silver spring installed remove it. Do your initial tune with the gold then fine tune it you want to with the silver. The silver spring will need to be cut to attain what ever FPS your looking at achieving.

  26. #2156
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,368
    Quote Originally Posted by C_losjoker
    Ok guys I have a classic rt that I installed level ten on. On first air up I got leaks down the barrel after I pulled the trigger, pulling trigger again did not change anything. Took apart, change carrier, took out shims and put back together. Now I have no leaks but no trigger pull. When I air it up I feel the pressure and sear on the trigger, but when I pull the trigger I get no shot. There is a light tension on the trigger almost like its on a very weak spring when I pull it, trigger bounces back to be pulled again.

    So what am I over looking, sure its something simple.
    Thanks.
    As mentioned, you will need to increase the velocity setting (chamber pressure) to fire the level 10 mag. The level 10 takes a higher chamber pressure to overcome the bolt spring force due to the smaller bolt stem diameter at the carrier oring.

  27. #2157

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by athomas
    As mentioned, you will need to increase the velocity setting (chamber pressure) to fire the level 10 mag. The level 10 takes a higher chamber pressure to overcome the bolt spring force due to the smaller bolt stem diameter at the carrier oring.
    Tried that, change and used different springs, even played with sear length. Got the same results. Going too try going up one carrier, see what happens. Now its getting personal.

  28. #2158
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,368
    Quote Originally Posted by C_losjoker
    Tried that, change and used different springs, even played with sear length. Got the same results. Going too try going up one carrier, see what happens. Now its getting personal.
    The sear/trigger pin length shouldn't make a difference unless the trigger pin is constantly in contact with the back of the trigger when the gun is aired up. If there is a gap behind the trigger when you hold the trigger against the safety, then it should be good to go.

    Try the shorter gold spring, first. The gun should fire with that spring installed. Its a good idea to check the carrier as well. Use the largest carrier than doesn't produce a leak. Remember to use the same oring in each carrier that you try. Keep the shims out of it.

  29. #2159
    So took her completely apart, included the valve. Greased everthing back up, oil. And as I was putting her together, decided to check fittings. Last one I blew into was not flowing. Took it off and attached to inside of the fitting was a little brass filter. Whole time it was this damn thing blocking the flow of air, took it off and she shoots fine.

  30. #2160
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,368
    Quote Originally Posted by C_losjoker
    So took her completely apart, included the valve. Greased everthing back up, oil. And as I was putting her together, decided to check fittings. Last one I blew into was not flowing. Took it off and attached to inside of the fitting was a little brass filter. Whole time it was this damn thing blocking the flow of air, took it off and she shoots fine.
    Sometimes its the simplest of things that we overlook. Years ago people used to put those filters in to catch rust and debris from old CO2 tanks. There shouldn't have been one on the RT since they don't use CO2.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •