Thanks a lot for the insight. I'll run through those checks and see if I can pinpoint where my leak is.
I'm running an AGD carbon fiber frame. Bushing is in place. I'm not certain what size pin I have as I don't have a pair of calipers.
Okay, when I pull the trigger I get a first shot, and then significant drop off after that. When I hold the trigger in after a shot, the bolt does not reset, and after about 3-4 seconds I can hear a hiss down the barrel. I have to manually reset the bolt to take another shot.
So this seems to indicate a bad seal somewhere in the valve? I replaced the Reg Valve Pin Oring, but nothing changed. If the On/Off oring you're referring to is the one that sits on top of the On/Off, then I've replaced that one too.
The space between my trigger and sear is minimal, but I can't screw the rod in any further.
I replaced the Reg Seat Oring, and pulled out the valve pin assembly, and cleaned off those orings. I wouldn't mind replacing them, but I dont really know what size they are, or if I have extras, and it doesn't sound like they're the culprit. I've added a fair amount of oil to everything, and I keep double checking my carrier, and I'm still using the best one.
Still, the problem remains that I get one shot off before I can't fire another. The trigger has pressure against it, but won't actually fire; it feels like when I don't have my velocity high enough, except I'm pretty sure I do. If I hold the trigger in, it was quiet for 10 seconds, and then started slowly but surely to leak from the front.
Is the issue with the trigger rod that it can be too far from the trigger, or too close? Mine is about 1/32 away from the back of the trigger when I hold it against the safety, and I can't screw it in any further. Maybe I need to try and take some off..?
Thanks again for helping me troubleshoot.
When you do hold the trigger in, do it for longer than 3 - 4 sec. Hold it in for a minute or two. Does the hiss persist, or does it eventually stop, or does it get worst? The easiest way to diagnose this is to air up without the bolt as I mentioned before. That way it totally eliminates the bolt and only evaluates the valve regulator and on-off.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
The fact that you can feel pressure on the trigger means the bolt is reset. Otherwise the sear would hit the bolt and there wouldn't be any force on the trigger rod to push against the trigger.
What is the output pressure of your tank? Is it working properly so that you are getting the proper pressure?
Thank you again for all the help.
After your last comment, it dawned on me that I'm using a new tank (I just traded my 50/45 for a 68/45). I opened her up today and, surely enough, all the shims have been removed. I'm probably getting an input pressure of about 550 PSI.
I'm going to find out how to order some more shims from Ninja, and then get back at it.
I appreciate all your effort!
I have a classic valve with a level 7 that shot great a couple of weeks ago. Installed the level 10 kit with the small/medium o-ring carrier, two shims, and the red spring. Now I can't get gun to fire. I have pressure on the sear, just no bang bang. Help me automag community, you're my only hope.
did you turn the velocity up?
Perfect. Thank you gentlemen! It goes bang bang now.
I replaced my stock bolt system with the level 10 (I am using a classic valve). I used two of the small shims and the brass piece with one line and one dot. I am happy with the bolt's performance and sensitivity but I had to crank up the regulator about a full turn to get the FPS back up where it needed to be (is this normal?). There is a very slight air leak down the barrel. Do I remove a shim or two or do I need a different size brass item down the tube? (sorry, not sure what it's called right meow). The size that I am using right now has one line and one dot.
Much appreciated for pointed that out! I don't understand the logic behind the bolt spring though. Does this mean that it uses less air at the correct long spring setting vs the short spring setting as far has how high/low you have to adjust the regulator for the required FPS?
When you install the level 10, the smaller bolt stem hole in the powertube starts the bolt off slower and also slows down the air release compared to a level 7 bolt. This reduces the velocity at the same chamber pressure. You need to increase the velocity setting to get the velocity back up to the proper setting. A stiffer bolt spring requires an even higher velocity setting. Its normal. The smaller hole in the carrier oring compared to the original powertube inside diameter, combined with increased tension of stiffer bolt springs, reduces the impact force of the bolt on the ball, which is the whole idea behind the level 10.
I have tried several combinations of carriers and shims.
the universal problem across all sets of carrier/no shims/some shims seems to be failure to reset after a chop or simulated chop.
right now i have the 1.5 with three shims, after trying 0, 1, 2, and 3.
stock x valve, ule body, lukes custom rail, intelliframe.
also the sear is an after market one that came stock on a minimag from glenn palmer. the pin connects to a higher point and seems shorter.
would a stock sear work better?
yes, i could have purchased something new for the same money.