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Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #151
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Winnipeg Manitoba, Canada
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    543

    Finally got a SCUBA

    O.K., I have acquired a SCUBA and can put in my level 10 tonight.

    But, since I am still a MAG newb, I have a really stupid question.

    I have put in a 1.0 carrier, no shims, and the stock spring as suggested to start off.

    Now, when I air up the marker air comes pouring out of the barrel. Now, I rechecked my carrier and it really is the best choice. The 1.0 is pretty snug, whereas the 1.5 just slides off. The .5 is really tough to get off.

    So, I should also state that my velocity has to be really high. I had previously cranked it up, and if I keep cranking it up I notice that my leak does get much weaker. However, I have begun to see the thread on the back adjuster, and I don't want the thing flying out on me either!

    It is not leaking out of the back, but if I keep turning it, can I damage the gun?

    Also, when I get it to the point where it stops leaking, pulling the trigger does NOTHING.

    Any help would be much appreciated.

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
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    Deep in the recesses of Northern Virginia
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    A couple problems...

    My lvl 10 seems really loud, like I'm firing with the stock bolt and stuff. Is this normal?

    Second: When I install and test the carrier pack I hear a very slight leak. I have to put my ear right up to the hole in the powerfeed to hear it. I went down to the smallest carrier (the one with no grooves, right?) and I still heard it. It's almost completly inaudiable at a distance of over 1 foot. Is this normal?


    Edit: I just realized that my tank has 800-900 psi left. Is this an issue?
    BrockSampson "I see dead people..."



    and once I see them, I make sweet, sweet love...

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
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    Duke Henry if you can see threading, you might be turning down the velocity.(I assume it's a RT/Emag valve and not an A.I.R. valve)...remember clockwise is higher velocity.....counter clockwise is lower velocity...(I'd put 2 shims)

    slateman you may have a bad o'ring if it leaks with the zero carrier, I'd just start over with a new o'ring. It shouldnt leak.

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
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    Winnipeg Manitoba, Canada
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    Oh god - what a blunder! Man I feel embarassed! Note to self - do not work on both Tippmann and Airgun Designs guns in the same night until I remember that they are different!

    Thanks

  5. #155
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    ALright. I switched the O-rings and got it working using the second to smallest carrier. No leaks. i did the next step (the shims, dropped two in and had no leaks. The gun cycled (had to turn up the velocity a bit). So I move to the spring and try the longest one. Air leaks out the back so I move to the "middle one" (the one that's been cut, right?) same thing happens. What now?

  6. #156
    Join Date
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    Texas
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    you know to use the biggest carrier that doesnt leak right?
    not the smallest one that works(just checking)..

    Use the cut spring, make sure the cut end is on the bolt side, back out the velocity so it doesnt leak, see if it cycles.

  7. #157
    Join Date
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    Deep in the recesses of Northern Virginia
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    OK. The gun works with the stock spring (the copper colored one). I have the largest carrier I can get w/o a leak, and I have two shims. When I switch to one of the other springs, I have to turn up the velocity to high and it stats leaking out the back.

    I tried the middle spring both ways and it didn't help. I switched reg. seats and that didn't help.

    Any ideas?


    P.S. I really apperciate everyone's help.

    BlackVCG: You need to replace the piston if it's venting before you can get to 300fps with the middle spring.
    Last edited by BlackVCG; 09-18-2002 at 01:44 AM.

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Where the Sun Don't Shine!
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    18
    my lvl 10 didn't come with a back washer. would AGD send one or is there a hardware store that you could get it at (i doubt the hardware store has it though).

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    213
    OK, well I got the bolt to go into my SFL and so I have Lvl 10 set up on both my Micro and SFL, but here is the rub, both of them still chop balls. No matter what configuration I use the bolt comes forward with too much force. I even tried the tightest carriers with the longest springs, I of course got bolt stick, but when it did not stick it was still to strong. So it sounds like I need new regulator pistons for both of them. Is this correct?

    Looking for all the help I can get.
    That which does not kill us, cripples us for life.

  10. #160
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    slateman what type of barrel are you using? If it's a long ported barrel, that can be hurting you.
    Try backing your velocity out a bit and using a stock barrel. that might do the trick.

    Fluffy_the_Conqueror I believe you settled everything in another thread.

    kutter the bolt doesnt take long to get into second gear, are you sure the first stage is still that hard?

  11. #161
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    I'm not using a barrel at all. I'm dry firing it w/o one till I can get it to work properly.

  12. #162
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    you may need a new reg piston.

  13. #163
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    Yea. I was just talking to Rob on the phone and that what he said. Is there a special High Pressure Piston?

  14. #164
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  15. #165
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    Dec 2001
    Location
    South Florida
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    Yeah, there is no doubt its not working right. I have seen the videos of what it should look like and if I put a squegee about 1/4" in front of it, the bolt definitely strikes the squegee with more force than it should. I will just have to order 2 new RT regulator pistons.

  16. #166
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    Oct 2000
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    North Plains, OR
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    kutter- What's your velocity set at?

  17. #167
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    South Florida
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    Well Black, when I had my Micro out a few days ago it was set about 285. I think the setup I have in there right now is this: 1.5 carrier, with well broken in o-ring, 2 shims, and longest spring. I noticed that my gun was too reactive with the middle spring but got a lot better with the longer springer, still nice and crisp, but not so prone to runaway. Temperature was in the mid 90's with humidity about the same and I was shooting fresh Marbalizer. I did not bounce test it as I shot all I had that day.

    I have not had a chance to chrono my SFL since I got the lvl 10 installed, that will occur this weekend. I keep meaning to buy hand chrono but that Keely Watson poster at the pro shop is sooooo distracting

    I ordered 2 regulator pistons yesterday and they should be here by friday, at least thats what I asked Marcia to do for me, so when I get them in and replace both then I will have a better idea what is going on.

  18. #168

    Leaking Out the Back

    Just want to make sure I'm doing this right.
    Changed the carrier to 1.5 to stop the down the barrel leak.
    Leaking out the back, tried the shortest spring in the kit, leaks at 230fps or higher. I believe I need a new reg piston.
    Is this correct?

    I'm using a All American 14" from a splash kit.
    Last edited by Irish Deth; 09-22-2002 at 12:48 AM.

  19. #169
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    ya, sounds like it, what tpye of barrel are you using?

  20. #170
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    May 2001
    Location
    USA
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    719
    After several months of flawless operation, I have to report a slight hick-up in lvl 10 operation. While at my local paintball store, allowing several friends and customers to try out my E-mag with the lvl 10 inside, my E-mag developed a massive leak down the barrel. After removing all paint and air from the gun, I proceed to remove the valve to find the bumper was totally shredded ( they did put almost 10 cases of paint through the gun, trying to cause a chop). After changing out the bumper, I re-aired the gun with the same problem. I then went home, being that I am the only E-mag in the area that I know of and probably the only owner of a level 10 in the area, to use my tools and parts. After trading out all the O-rings and switching O-ring carriers, I finally gave up and decided to post my problems on the tech forum. Havoc recommended that I check the piston on the bolt to see if it had moved out any, and lo and behold it had. After pushing it back in, the only way I could do it was to gently but forcefully use the desk to push it in, I re-aired my gun and it worked as usual. I was wondering if we have come up with a fix to this problem, as I have read long time ago of problems with the piston coming out, that and I am too lazy and time pressed to actually look it up because I am going out to the field to play!

    "The BEAST"
    "No-Rise" E-mag
    Level 10 Bolt
    AGD Flatline 91cu in/4500psi
    Black HALO B

    "Red Heatseeker"
    Red to Clear Fade Freak Factory Impulse
    68/4500psi Max-Flo
    Red HALO B

  21. #171

    I need help

    Alright i just baught a used RT, i put a lvl 10 in it, but i'm not sure if its working correctly, it won't break paint but 3 out of every 12 or so balls gets burped out and only go about 10yrds and sometimes i get a few balls that just roll out of the barrel when i tip the barrel down to the ground. Does the lvl 10 need to be adjusted or does it sound like i have something wrong with the gun itself?

    Automag RT
    Crossfire 88/4500
    DYE Boomstick
    LVL 10
    Intelliframe on its way

  22. #172
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    USA
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    719
    The balls rolling out of the barrel appear to be either a problem with the paint to barrel match (they might be very small) or a failure of the ball detent/nubbin. I recomend going with the newer plastic nubbins, as they will last a whole lot longer and they will not slice a ball, as the wire ones are likely to when they break.

    As for the balls burping out, I have experienced that once in a while, but not extremely often. It only seems to happen to me when I fan the trigger for excessive periods of time. I do not know the cause, but my guess is that the tradeoff with having the level 10 is a slightly decreased rate of fire, which I am willing to deal with in exchange for not chopping paint

  23. #173
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    North Plains, OR
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    DarkPhoenix- If you're handy with tools and Loctite, take off the foamie, take a drift pin and tap out the bolt pin from the hole exposed when you take off the foamie. This will remove the bolt pin so you can put a dab of RED Loctite on it and press fit it back in. Be sure to fully clean off any dirt from the tip of the pin surface that is press fitted into the bolt with rubbing alochol. Use a q-tip to wipe off any Loctite that comes out from pressing it in. I suggest using a flat faced hammer on the end of the bolt pin with short, but firm taps. The end of the bolt pin that you'll be hitting with the hammer doesn't contact anything so it's not an issue to hit it with a hammer, so long as you tap it in straight and don't slip. Use calipers to measure from the tip of the bolt to the tip of the pin. It should go in to 2.010".

  24. #174
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    MI, USA
    Posts
    142
    I know the carrier should be *snug* when its pushed in but how snug is snug? I snapped a pencil pushing so hard trying to get a carrier in. It seems like the carrier was machined too wide for it to fit in past the threads in the PT. I can't get the carrier in far enough for the lvl 10 PT tip to catch on the threads, but almost. Should I resort to *tapping* it in with a mallet or something similar?
    Electro user: WHAT!?! I got eliminated by a %@$*ing pump?

  25. #175
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    New Haven, CT
    Posts
    100
    Black, in my post (which was burried too quickly, Grrr) you told me to measure from the bolt tip to the end of the bolt pin, a distance which is supposed to be 2.01". Well, I did measurements and the bolt is 2 and 11/32 inches, much longer than 2.01". What do I do now? Should I send the LX kit in for a replacement bolt or what? Thanks, you have been very helpful up to now, and I appreciate it.

    Edit: Thanks a million Black; everything looks good now, just waiting for it to be completely dry.
    Last edited by LittleJP; 09-28-2002 at 01:15 PM.
    Fear The 'Fro

  26. #176
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    Dr. StockClass- Pop it back out and then drop it back in. Use the back of a BIC pen and push it in with that. If you push it in wrong, it will go in at angle and it won't budge. Just make sure it looks like it's going in straight and it will go in.

    LittleJP- Are you handy with loctite and a drift pin? If so all you need to do is take off the foamie, insert the drift pin into the hole that is uncovered when you take off the foamie and tap out the pin. Clean off the tip of the pin that press fits into the bolt with alcohol and and then put a dab of red loctite on it. Put it back in the hole and tap it in with a flat faced hammer. You really can't do any damage to the pin with the hammer so be sure to tap it nice and hard so it goes in all the way. Measure it so that it's 2.010" and then use a Q-Tip to wipe off any of the red loctite that came out when it was being press fitted. Let it sit for 24hrs and it should be good to go. Use one of your extra foamies that came with the kit to replace the old one. Be sure to clean off all of the old glue and rubber material before you put on the new one.

  27. #177
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Ottawa, Ontario
    Posts
    1,551
    I've noticed that with level 10, the reactivness of my trigger is down to practically nil. Any recommendations? I saw a few posts regarding this earlier, but no answers... (I might have missed it, this is a LONG thread. )

    Perhaps a FAQ regarding level 10 teching might be in order?
    Neil Looby
    SMT Thunder Chickens
    Ontario, Canada, Eh!
    Tequila EMag LX, PumpMag, PGP,
    VM68 Magnum, Trracer Tagmaster
    AGD 68ci 3000psi Flatline

    Play with the Best. Win with the Best. AGD!
    http://www.thestrider.com

  28. #178
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
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    Texas
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    it shouldnt affect reactiveness, what are your settings? are you sure you are using the biggest carrier that doesnt leak?

  29. #179
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Florida
    Posts
    7

    bolt stick or something else

    ok my level 10 is awesome but sometimes i have to push on the front of my bolt to get it to fire again

    then it will fire a couple shots then i must push again


    what do i do ????????????????//


    any help would be great

    also i have some probs with my crossfire tank and it leaks out the fill nipple

    any suggestions

    thanks will

  30. #180
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Texas
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    if the bolt doesnt bleed the pressure, drop in another shim.

    as for the fill nipple, check the o'ring that's in itmake sure the tank is empty

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