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Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #481
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Saukville Wi
    Posts
    3,124
    Originally posted by Hemorrhage
    No carriers work, all vent out either back hole or side hole of the valve (x-valve)at all veloticty settings. My velocity adjuster thing is on the verge of being stripped it seems like and I've gone through 2SCUBA tanks of air to try to fix this bugger. Any ideas??? HELP!

    What springs/spring have you been using, whats your input pressure? The venting out the back has nothing to do with your carrier...
    Taking a long needed leave of the sport to finish school and tour the country

    b2k3w/pds, vaporized, vapor valve, aka sidewinder, chaos chip, palmer rock lpr, CP barrels, 68/45 hyperflow

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  2. #482
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11

    lvl 10 good, bad?

    ok....Right now I have a stock bolt, I know that the lvl 10 won't cause chopping, but will it increase accuracy, I don't know if I should get the venturi bolt of just spend about 40.00 more for the lvl 10...will you guys help me out please??
    Bunkered: (v) When a player from the opposite team sneaks up to your fortified position and shoots you at point blank range because you SUCK.

  3. #483
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Quartz Hill
    Posts
    1,647
    The level 10 will decrease recoil.
    Sig over 50k

  4. #484
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    11
    when you decrease reecoil what exactly does that do?

  5. #485
    Tried all springs, tank at bottom in sig, you should know the input by that..
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  6. #486
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Quartz Hill
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    1,647
    When it decreases recoil it means that it has less kick or force exerting your gun from moving upward. To me that really doesnt matter couse i never really noticed any recoil on a paintball gun. If we are talking about the 50bmg sniper rifle, than thats recoil!

  7. #487
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Helena, MT
    Posts
    158
    You wouldn't think that you could have less jump than before could you? But you would be wrong, I never noticed my gun jumping but then I installed level 10 and now my gun has just started letting the balls stack in the hopper (I have a "mechanical", hand agitated hopper). It just also now feels a lot better when firing the gun.

  8. #488

    Thumbs up

    Ok, I have an rt pro that came installed with a lvl 10. I bought a freak back for it. With the stock barrel the gun worked fine, with the freak the trigger would just wobble and the gun wouldnt fire. So i read some tips and i tried a bigger spacer, it worked. It would fire everytime i pulled the trigger, the only problem it leaked like a bastard!!!! lol. So i tried switching to other spacers....same thing...then i had a thought and switched back to the original spacer that came installed and added to shims. Now i am the proud owner of a non leaking, accurate, firing rt pro! little friggin things can screw up the gun or make it fire flawlessly, just keep trying you wont regret it.

  9. #489
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,851
    Hemorrhage - X valves are new so they must be oil'd and broken in.

    GhillieGuy - turn up your velocity till it fires.

    automag44 - recoil is the kick you recieve when you fire the marker. A level 10 mag has 42% less kick over a level 7 and less kick then any other type of high end semi. (It only matters in high rates of fire, it'll lead to tighter patterns).

  10. #490
    I'm having to run the 1.0 Carrier or I leak badly

    Anyone else in the same boat ?

    Doesn't matter Input Pressure, new oring in the carrier or what 1.5 and up leak.

    No shims but using 1.0 I'm a little harder on paint than I'd like to be (well ok I can't get it to stop on a dollar)

    Thanks
    Barry

  11. #491
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Quartz Hill
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    Havoc, ive tried turning up the velosity and it still dont fire.

  12. #492
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    3
    I looked through the first 10 to 13 pages and couldn't find a simmilar problem, so im sorry if this has allready come up. Our team got 7 level 10s and I ended up putting them all in and got them all running sweet. The only problem that came up is with an E-Mag and a miny-mag. They both shoot fine but when any pressure is put on the barrel like resting it on the chrony, The bolt won't go forward and it jams on the barrel. We tried 14 different types of barrels and they do the same thing. All with brand new O-rings. We put the old bolt in and it doesn't do it. Playing sup air and pushing into the bunker stops it shooting so I'm open to suggestions as to what to do. Should I try sanding some of the bulge off the front of the bolt?
    Anyone?
    Thanks
    Big Rob

  13. #493
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Quartz Hill
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    1,647
    BigRob, welcome to AO. I think that your problem is that the barrels are too loose. Go ahed and take the body frame off and tighten the screw on the berrel twist lock ***.

  14. #494
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    3

    Thumbs up

    Thanks for that, Ill give it a try.

  15. #495
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Gresham,Oregon
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    1,463

    x valve wont shoot

    i just got it today and it wont shoot when i gas it up with air it makes the noise like its flowing through but the sear doesnt pop forward?


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  16. #496
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Sunshine Coast Australia
    Posts
    25
    Im having the same problem as Big Rob with the level 10 on a minimag.
    Since installing the L10 the marker has been running great but as soon as any pressure is applied to the front of the barrel the marker will drop down to 180 fps or stop and vent.
    I have tried everything suggested on the posts to stop this but it is still occuring.
    After comparing my bolt to the ones shown on the installation guide and the 'half" section of the L10, I have noticed that in the pic's the bolt has a tapered front radius, while Big robs and mine has a raised radius- resulting in a 'bubble' effect along the front of the bolt.
    Would this be causing the bolt to jam? and if so would it be possible to polish the radius down ??

    Any assitance on this wold be great
    Thankyou

  17. #497
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    Jan 2003
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    Do the same thing i told bigrob to do...

  18. #498
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Sunshine Coast Australia
    Posts
    25
    Yep i have have played with that too GhillieGuy, I currently have the barrel in so tight i have to use both hand with the marker between my knees to unlock it from the twist lock. (also loosened it off too and tried it like that ....sorry no success)

    Thanks

  19. #499
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia
    Posts
    3

    Question

    The end of the bolt doesn't look like it is tapered enough to slide past the 1/4mm of barrel that shifts when the barrel is touched. The bulge looks rounder than ones I have seen in pics on the net. We havn't had any problem with the others, as 3 are micromags with cocker threds and the others havn't been used yet. Still don't know if I should try taking a bit off the front of the bolt or rounding out the lip of the barrel. But I dont want to screw a perfectly good bolt or boomstick.

  20. #500
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    Quartz Hill
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    It might just be the barrel... What kind is it?

  21. #501
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Sunshine Coast Australia
    Posts
    25
    Im using a Stainless Dye Boomstick, but Big Rob and I have tried it with a combination of different automag barrels all with the same result.

  22. #502
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    Jan 2003
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    Quartz Hill
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    Ya got me...

  23. #503
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,851
    GhillieGuy - how high have you turned up the velocity? till it bleeds out the back(if so did it fire then)? What's your input pressure? What type of valve are you using? Make sure your batteries are fresh. Take off the bolt and see if it fits the body ok. Make sure your using the biggest carrier that doesnt leak. Make sure the cut side of the spring is on the bolt.

    BarryTolar - all o'rings are different, so long as your using the biggest carrier that doesnt leak, your fine(it'll get softer as it breaks in and you re-chrono). The longer the spring, the softer on paint. Try a 850input pressure.

    BIG ROB and Matches - Take your barrels off and your valves out. Then get the bolt and make sure it fits inside the barrel. If there's a hang-up, switch barrels if you can, if thats the best barrel for the paint your using, then you can polish the OD of the bolt just a tad, dont over do it. It should help. However, the bolt probably fits in the barrel and what you most likely have to do is go down a carrier with the same o'ring. I think both your set-ups are on the peak of holding pressure which makes any bolt movement(by moving the barrel) cause a leak. Try going do a carrier, the o'ring will eventually break in a tad more and you should be fine.

  24. #504
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Sunshine Coast Australia
    Posts
    25
    After much stuffing around cleaning, polishing, changing o'rings etc I finally figured out what was causing the bolt stick
    As ive had my minimag for about 9 to 10 years there was a bit of ware and tear in the main body which was causing the regulator and bolt assembly to be slightly off center to the main body.............Solution: I had to tighten the field strip screw with an allen-key rather than use my fingers.
    Basically i had to make sure the body screw and field stip screw were tightened with the same force (or torque).
    Its funny how the simplest thing allways cause you the most hassle

    Thanks for the help guys

  25. #505
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,851
    Glad you figured it out!

    something I gotta mention though, bolt stick is different from a leak down the barrel when pressures applied


    Your problem is somewhat comman on older mag bodies. What happens is the inner body washer develops a burr causing the bolt to either not fit or not stroke properly. Get yourself a file and try and take that burr out so the bolt fits fine. Dont overtighten the field strip screw, that'll eventually lead to more problems.

  26. #506
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Sunshine Coast Australia
    Posts
    25
    Cool bananas, I have a look at the body washer on the weekend.

    Thanks

  27. #507
    Have a brand nwe X-mag.
    A little problem:

    The bolt is hard as rock!
    Could cut off my finger!
    Chops balls like a meatgrinder.


    Is it a stronger spring thats the solution?
    The chrono shows 240..

  28. #508
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Gresham,Oregon
    Posts
    1,463

    Re: x valve wont shoot

    Originally posted by maglover52
    i just got it today and it wont shoot when i gas it up with air it makes the noise like its flowing through but the sear doesnt pop forward?
    i have tried the diffrent spacers and it did the same thing. and the instructions arent helping.

  29. #509
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,851
    Fnoskar - to AO! Congrats on your new purchase. Yes, you can use a longer spring to be softer on paint. I suggest the cut(mid) spring(cut side goes on the bolt). Also, your Xmag needs to be broken in, take off the barrel, puts about 8 drops of oil into the asa and dry fire it plenty of times. As your Level 10 breaks in, it will soften up some more.

    maglover52 - turn up your velocity till the sear engages.

  30. #510
    hmmm okay.

    Have installed the longer spring.
    Now the searpin won´t cock.

    Do I just have to turn the velocity up abit or??


    Don't understand the LX logic...
    Can't someone please explain it to me?
    Like what does the diffrent parts do and how do I now with one to change when it isn't working?

    Thanks for the help.

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