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Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #2281
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,975
    Quote Originally Posted by OldSchool_RT View Post
    Essentially my RT will not fire.

    I went through the usual troubleshooting steps, and I was not able to find a carrier that would allow the marker to fire, leaking or not leaking.

    (I used the same oring for testing and the gold spring that came with the L10 kit)

    Input pressure is 800psi, verified with a temp gauge installed on the body rail port, and as suggested in this thread I turned the velocity up until it started venting out the back - still would not fire.
    Use the gold spring for testing purposes. It will allow you to keep the operating pressure as low as it can be. Install the largest carrier that doesn't produce a leak. Basically, you should keep increasing the carrier size, using the same white oring, until you develop a leak out the front. Then go back to the last smaller one that didn't leak. That will be your carrier and oring setup. Now its just a matter of increasing the velocity until the gun cycles. If the regulator piston assembly is bleeding too much air off, then you might never reach a high enough pressure to cycle. However, using the gold spring, it shouldn't be an issue unless the regulator piston assembly is really bad.

    Check for bolt interference. The level 10 bolt is really sensitive to friction.

    Check the body washer to make sure it isn't causing friction on the bolt. Over time, sometime the body washer can get squeezed inward. If this occurs, just run a round file through the center to clean our the burrs and open it back up to the original size.

    Also, try cycling without the barrel. If the barrel isn't centered in the body properly, it could cause friction issues with the bolt.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  2. #2282
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    SWEDEN
    Posts
    18
    might as well tell how how my LVL10 is adjusted, first i tryed to make the adjustment as recomended by AGD find the right oringcarrier and no spacers ecept the white backing that is placed behind the carrier.

    at first just to find the right carrier that make the right fit and not leaking air, then adding spacers betwen carrier and powertubetipp till it start to leak out the LVL10 venting hole witch my bolt did not do eaven with all five spacers so i ended upp using four spacers and placed the fifth behind the white backspacer.

    mind that when mounting the spacers between carrier and powertubetipp to use enough spacers between carrier and powertubetipp sins the tipp of the bolt that goes in to powertube make a increase in diameter about 1/4inch in on the tipp and that the bolt dont end upp hammering the carrier with this diameter change and bolt stopps against the bumper on the valve as intended not against the carrier as would be whitout any spacers.

    so i settled with four spacers and the fifth spacer i placed behind the white backing, so it is now staked in this order counted from bottom of powertube... one spacer, white backing, oringcarrier, four spacers and last power tube tip.
    as i find out atlest om my valve ther where exact room for all spacers and backing whitout squeeze anything and all spacers and carrier is riggidly mounted when powertube tipp is torqued down properly.
    im using gold spring to make my marker work on lowest pressure as posible for best air efficiency and still cycle as intended and no problem with chopped paint eaven tryed some tourney paint and no problem whit that either.

  3. #2283
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,975
    Quote Originally Posted by SWE HooK View Post
    might as well tell how how my LVL10 is adjusted, first i tryed to make the adjustment as recomended by AGD find the right oringcarrier and no spacers ecept the white backing that is placed behind the carrier.

    at first just to find the right carrier that make the right fit and not leaking air, then adding spacers betwen carrier and powertubetipp till it start to leak out the LVL10 venting hole witch my bolt did not do eaven with all five spacers so i ended upp using four spacers and placed the fifth behind the white backspacer.

    mind that when mounting the spacers between carrier and powertubetipp to use enough spacers between carrier and powertubetipp sins the tipp of the bolt that goes in to powertube make a increase in diameter about 1/4inch in on the tipp and that the bolt dont end upp hammering the carrier with this diameter change and bolt stopps against the bumper on the valve as intended not against the carrier as would be whitout any spacers.

    so i settled with four spacers and the fifth spacer i placed behind the white backing, so it is now staked in this order counted from bottom of powertube... one spacer, white backing, oringcarrier, four spacers and last power tube tip.
    as i find out atlest om my valve ther where exact room for all spacers and backing whitout squeeze anything and all spacers and carrier is riggidly mounted when powertube tipp is torqued down properly.
    im using gold spring to make my marker work on lowest pressure as posible for best air efficiency and still cycle as intended and no problem with chopped paint eaven tryed some tourney paint and no problem whit that either.
    The spacer behind the white backing washer does nothing. The backing washer is only there so that the carrier oring doesn't get pushed out of the carrier when you put the bolt in the valve when no air pressure exists in the chamber.

    The fact that your able to use 5 shims without a powertube leak is not normal. If it works then great. It just means that either the bolt is sitting farther back while at rest, or the valve is sitting farther forward. The larger diameter of the bolt stem will never contact the front of the carrier assembly, so you don't need to add shims to prevent it from happening. Shims are only there to change the distance that the bolt needs to move before it can vent air if it contacts something in the breach. Most of the time, if you place something directly in front of the bolt, it will still move far enough to vent air and reset even if you use no shims at all. I've never seen a properly operating level 10 mag ever need shims in the powertube. Now, since yours is a bit longer than normal, it might not hurt to have them.

    The shims don't affect the operation of the level 10. Only the carrier size and oring combination affects the ability to shoot properly. The springs will affect the amount of forward force of the bolt. As you have noticed, the gold spring works quite well and is the most efficient one to use.

  4. #2284
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    SWEDEN
    Posts
    18
    yes you are right in that the white backing is stopping the oring from falling out of the carrier.

    my theory is that with no spacers the carrier might be sliding back and forth in the powertube and ther is enough space for the oring to fall out of the carrier as mentiond so therfor i started to thinking abut the problem and came out with a solution to try with fixating the carrier as this in theory atleast make things more predictable if thay not flopping around uncontrolably and also in my "experimenting" without spacers ther where contact between carrier and bolt as mentiond in my previous post.
    note that im not claming my way is the right way but only one of the ways to tune LVL10 bolts.

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