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Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #1
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    **** Offical LVL10 Problems Thread *****

    Guys,

    Post your LVL10 issues here we will try to help.

    AGD

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Here's my issue with the my level 10. I can get the modification to work in my classic RT with only the short spring (it's the same as the stock one). Attempts at using the middle and long ones have failed as the reg piston would just start venting. The carrier I am using is the 1.5 one and the pt piston slides into the pt and inside the pt o-ring just right - not too loose not too tight (the #2 spacer leaked). The problem is the bolt still feels like it's going pretty fast [to chop a ball] with the short spring on it as I have felt it by shooting against my finger. Any helps on how I could get a softer setup?

    AGD: You need to replace your regulator piston. It is venting at too low a pressure.
    Last edited by AGD; 07-19-2002 at 10:47 PM.

  3. #3
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    Have you chronoed the marker? You need to turn up the "velocity" when installing level 10. You very well may be shooting down in the 250s.


    Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
    Hitech is the man.... - Blennidae
    The only Hitech Lubricant

  4. #4

    problem with solution

    I found that after putting two cases of paint through my new Level 10 kit that i developed a very slight leak in the power tube from time to time. I removed the o-ring carrier and installed the next smallest size and the leak stopped. Apparently the o-ring "broke in" and was a tiny bit too loose.
    sixty-six.

    Du bist, was du machst. Punkt.


  5. #5
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    This isn't really a problem but more of a question.

    I noticed that you said to put the cut end of the middle spring on the bolt and put the good end pointing out. Would there be any noticeable difference if you switched it around?


    AIM "Cypres0099"


  6. #6
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    Help Fast!!!

    I put in the smallest carrier and it still leaks. the smallest one is no lines no dots right? Could something else be leaking? nothing was leaking before Level 10.
    Please Help Me

    AGD: Take out all your shims and try it again.
    Last edited by AGD; 07-19-2002 at 10:48 PM.

  7. #7
    How long will it take for the both longer springs to weaken (they are another material than the original short one)? When must the spring be renewed?

    AGD: They should last years.

    Manuel_FZR: Thanks Tom for the answer.
    Last edited by Manuel_FZR; 07-22-2002 at 04:52 AM.
    Greets Manuel
    .:| levelx retro z-minimag |:..:| spearhead #192 |:.
    .:| ---> looking for Flatline 4.5K or AA Apokalypse 2K <--- |:.

  8. #8
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    Re: Help Fast!!!

    Originally posted by Minimag2002
    I put in the smallest carrier and it still leaks. the smallest one is no lines no dots right? Could something else be leaking? nothing was leaking before Level 10.
    Do you have any shims in? If so, that them all out. Put them back one a time, checking for leaks. Make sure everything is oiled. Also, check the condition of the black oring on the outside of the carrier. If you put the carrier in without oil it is possible to damage the oring. Let us know.

  9. #9
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    Level 10... need help

    My friends level 10 came in today, and in the process of putting it together, we realized that the bolt can't fully slide over the power tube tip. When the thicker part of the bolt piston thing gets to the power tube tip, it's too wide to pass through... are we doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the kit?

    Any help is appreciated,
    CenterFire

    EDIT - Sorry thats its in the wrong forum. Mods feel free to scoot it over to Tech. Hoping to get an answer faster in the more crowded forum is all
    Last edited by CenterFire; 07-19-2002 at 07:15 PM.

  10. #10
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    Link to my problem post:

    http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...&postid=387573

    BlackVCG is sending me some parts that hopefully should get me up and running. (Reg Piston Assembly)
    Potatoboy!

  11. #11
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    Originally posted by Cypres0099
    This isn't really a problem but more of a question.

    I noticed that you said to put the cut end of the middle spring on the bolt and put the good end pointing out. Would there be any noticeable difference if you switched it around?
    Yes.

    I tried doing that when I was first trying to set mine up. At first I thought that I was having trouble putting my valve assy. in, but when I investigated, it turned out that the spring had actually threaded past where it is supposed to stop, and into the breach. This would definitely not help in preventing ball chops. By placing the cut end against the bolt, you give it a good surface to seat against where it won't thread through.
    Silver SFL E-Magnum
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  12. #12
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    Re: Level 10... need help

    Originally posted by CenterFire
    we realized that the bolt can't fully slide over the power tube tip. When the thicker part of the bolt piston thing gets to the power tube tip, it's too wide to pass through...
    It doesn't/shouldn't go in that far. Are you using the new power tube tip that came with the level 10 kit? How far does the power piston extend past the end of the bolt (it should only be about a 1/2 inch or so)?

    Here is a link to a cut away view of the new bolt (so you can see if yours is the same):

    http://www.automags.org/forums/attac...&postid=362082

  13. #13
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    When I fully assemble the valve and etc, other than the bolt and spring, everything seems normal. And yes I'm using the new powertube tip. When I try and slide the bolt onto the assembly, it doesnt slide down the power tube. It stops a little less than an inch from where the bumper normally is.

    Edit - And after testing, we came to the conclusion that the wider part of the power piston is too wide to fit through the power tube tip...

  14. #14
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    [QUOTE]Originally posted by CenterFire
    [B]My friends level 10 came in today, and in the process of putting it together, we realized that the bolt can't fully slide over the power tube tip. When the thicker part of the bolt piston thing gets to the power tube tip, it's too wide to pass through... are we doing something wrong or is there something wrong with the kit?

    Any help is appreciated,
    CenterFire

    AGD: This is very strange, see if it will go over the old power tube tip. If it will see if the new pt tip goes into the original bolt.
    Last edited by AGD; 07-19-2002 at 10:50 PM.

  15. #15
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    I posted you question in the official problems thread. Here is a link to the thread:

    http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...019#post389019

  16. #16
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    Ok thanks... anyone with any help, feel free to reply to the quote in the official problems thread or here if you're lazy

  17. #17
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    As clarification, when I fully assemble the valve and etc, other than the bolt and spring, everything seems normal. When I try and slide the bolt onto the assembly, it doesnt slide down the power tube. It stops a little less than an inch from where the bumper normally is. And after testing, we came to the conclusion that the wider part of the power piston is too wide to fit through the power tube tip...

  18. #18

    Wink

    oh just thought i let you know that i am his friend he was refering to. you can e-mail me at Kmart_kicker@swirve.com

  19. #19
    personman Guest
    Are you using SBII or the regular one?
    You have to use SBII.

  20. #20
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    OK i have taken my mag down to the aother mag guys at the field today and the bolt fits on there lvl ten. they said that my powertube tip was machined wrong.

    No it does not go on the old powertube tip when the origanl powertube is assembled, but yes the new powertub tip goes on the original bolt.

    Oh yeah i changed my fourm name hope ya dont mind

    AGD: call us for a replacement bolt.
    Last edited by AGD; 07-21-2002 at 02:27 AM.

  21. #21
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    okay my leaked was fixed when i figured the added pressure in my macro was to much and caused a leak in the connector, (fixed with teflon tape). anyway now i have the 1.5 carrior, and when i try to shoot the marker it shoots then the bolt just starts leaking and won't stop untill i push it back with my battle swab. i have tried diffrent shims and nothing helps im using the original spring and don't have a chrono but im about 2-3 turns out.

    P.S.sorry but the tech part of paintball is not my strong side

    AGD: It sounds like your on/off pin is too short. If you fire and hold the trigger does it leak? If not then did you use the backing washer all the way in the bottom?

    EDIT: Thank You So Much For The Help Tom YOu Were Right As Usual It Was My On/off pin it got snapped after pulling the valve out. Thanks Again
    Last edited by Minimag2002; 07-22-2002 at 11:02 PM.

  22. #22
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    LVL10 Powertube tip had a hairline crack

    Hey guys, My powertube tip had a crack in it and it let go.

    When i was finger tightening it into the PT the tip snaped off.

    Has anyone else incountered this problem or did i just get a bad one?


    Any help would be great.

    AGD: Call the factory for a replacement.
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    Last edited by AGD; 07-21-2002 at 02:24 AM.
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  23. #23
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    Bolt Stick

    I am having the same trouble. I can not even get through a game with out having to push my bolt back to get it running. I am using 1.5 carrier, the medium spring, and 3 shims. 4 shims and the gun leaks down the barrel. I have tried the longest spring with the same outcome of bolt stick. I can not trust the gun in a tournament as of right now. Need Help....
    thanks

    AGD: Try the shortest spring, if that doesnt work you might have to call us for an RA.
    Last edited by AGD; 07-21-2002 at 02:23 AM.

  24. #24
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    I know this sounds stupid but should i call the front office or tech support

    -edit- also which department should i go to from automated telephone menu. I am new at this

    AGD: call tech support. they have their own phone # you can look it up on airgun.com I dont have it.
    Last edited by AGD; 07-21-2002 at 04:09 PM.

  25. #25
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    Thank you AGD

    I think I found yout my problem. It was not in the level 10 it was in the hyperframe that I was using... I am running a normal 45 frame and all my troubles went away. Thank you for the fast response AGD...

  26. #26
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    Ever since i put the level 10 on my velocity has gone to hell. Its wierd, w/ the regular bolt it's like -5/+5 or so. I did the break in procedure, am using longest spring w/ 1.5 carrier and 1 shim. I have a han held chrono that i used. After seeing it fluctuate i thought it was the chrono. So i chronoed at the field on saturady, 265,260,285,270,255. It was kinda grose. I chronoed real low so not to asses any penalties. I was wondering if there's anthing i can do. I keep everything lubed well. Also if i put in a 1.0 carrier, that will slow down the bolt more, right??

    AGD: If you use too small a carrier it will add too much friction to the system. This leads to variable velocity. Go with the largest carrier that doesnt leak.



    dyerules: Thanks for the quick answer!!! But if i was to put in a larger carrier, wouldn't that increase the bolt force???
    Last edited by dyerules; 07-21-2002 at 09:58 PM.
    x-valve,ULE,Z-grip

  27. I put in the LVL 10 worked fine, then yesterday a slight hiss would occur, so light I was not sure where it was coming from. I noticed when I put the trigger p against the pin it would go away and if I let the trigger hang lose it would not. Tried a few different carriers same problem.

    Az

    AGD: try tightening the field strip screw with a wrench. Your valve is slightly out of alignment.
    Last edited by AGD; 07-23-2002 at 12:16 AM.

  28. #28
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    I can seem to have shoot down rapid firing ion my emag. I tried tinkering with it and chronoing it like an RT in hybrid mode. (velocity e-mode 294 Hybrid 294, 207, 255 , 194)

    I installed the level 10 using the #1.5 carrier (#2 carrier leaks) ,the medium and short sping.

    please help

    AGD: THis is not a level 10 problem , look at your tank and hoses.
    Last edited by AGD; 07-23-2002 at 12:17 AM.

  29. #29
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    ok, i just got lvl 10 today for my emag. i put it all together and try to go out and shoot it. it wont shoot at all. when i pull the trigger in any mode, it doesnt shoot. what am i doing wrong?

    edit: it was the velocity, everything working great now!!!
    Last edited by spyder3634; 07-23-2002 at 11:56 PM.
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  30. #30
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    Lvl 10 and Velocity issues

    Installed on my RT Pro, Zgrip, stock barrel and PMI Pure energy 3000, 47cu tank. For testing purposes I was using a coiled remote. Ended up with the small spring, two shims and 1-ring carrier.

    - On this tank it significantly less efficient, I primarily play indoor leagues with speed at 260. Around 300 left in the tank, it just quits, I now have to fill after every game, where I could ususally last two games w/o filling.

    - Been using 1 year cruddy paint to test w/o any breaks, have shot about 1000 rounds of RP Premium w/o any breaks yet.

    - Problems that I have encountered are wierd. During my league play I have to get my tank filled every game. So then I would walk right to the chrono and get the speed going 215, 220's. I set it like that for a reason. I would then play the next game 10-15minutes after that. Then during the game, I'd put about 200 rounds through it, and when I would Chrono off it would be high 250's, low 260's. Comming on the field I would be at 220's, 230's. This would happen every game. I don't totally understand the physics behind cooling tanks and velocity, so I know there's a connection to be made, but I don't know where. I am not certain what to do. Any suggestions?

    AGD: L10's don't really like to be shot at low velocity. Best bet is to get a really short barrel and reduce your velocity that way and still maintain pressure.
    Last edited by AGD; 07-25-2002 at 02:15 AM.

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