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Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #661
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    uTah
    Posts
    216
    Truss- thats normal for the lvl 10, it needs a higher pressure to operate so once it gets down below a certain point it doesn't shoot. i usually only get 600 - 700 shots on a 3000psi tank which is also normal for a mag or at least its normal for my mag.

    Quadster- try going up a carrier size. the longest spring is the softest on paint. you add shims to make it vent sooner.


  2. #662

    Level 10 Problem

    thanks for the info Jimmi9999.

    Im using #1 right now,fired about 100 shots too stopp the leaking. But the #1.5 is too big,medium leaking.
    Is there a maximum amount of shims too be added?
    I dont have any shims on it right now.
    Do you oil you gun every time you use it? how many drops of oil do you use?

    thanks in advance
    NYX #145

  3. #663
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Brooksville Florida
    Posts
    174
    i am just wondering if there is a difference in tank sizes?what would be better to have?
    a 68cu at 45 or a 88 at 3000?
    Dark Viking #939

  4. #664

    Unhappy Is it realy that good?

    After months of repair at AGD and months of testing and
    tuning,i cant say that the Level 10 system can shot any type of paint whitout chops or barrel breaks.

    After last nights testing i had 70-80 ball brakes on 200 paintballs.
    Setup is #0,5 carrier,0-4 shims dossent matter how many,longest spring,chronoed at 280-290.
    Then i put my hand/finger what ever in front of the bolt and you nearly notice the bolt hit you.

    Paint that is used is Dracula. Works on any type of Angel,Cocker or Tippmann, but not on my X-Mag






    Out

  5. #665
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    113

    level 10 and powerfeed

    I just put in my new x-valve and level 10. I was using PMI premium paint as I have in the past. No problems for the first 4 games. After that, I began having trouble with the paint feeding into the barrel. I also would get some balls only shoot out about 10 feet (although the first shot).

    I am also afraid that sometimes the bolt may have returned without pushing the ball further into the barrel and firing (as if it was a stuck ball).

    Does the level 10 mod reduce the amount of air that used to be used to make the powerfeed work?

    While It was the first day I used it, I did shoot about 200 empty shots before using paintballs (with oil in the asa and using compressed air)

    I have the #1 carrier and 2 shims in. I did not chop any, and it does vent and return when I put my finger in and fire it.

    Any help/suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you.
    My first paintball gun was a splatmaster
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  6. #666
    Okay, I'm running 1.5 Carrier, 2 shims, middle spring, and 850psi input on an RT Classic.

    There are no leaks at all down the barrel. There is no bolt stick. The bolt bounces correctly off my finger (a little rougher than I expected, but not bad.)

    I'm getting a few problems, however: my efficiency is terrible. I used to get around 800-900 shots off my 68/4500 before my LX, now I get 30-50 shots per 1000 psi (I havent emptied the tank yet, but its obviously poor.) Also, the trigger no longer pressurizes once I get below about 1000psi in the tank.

    I believe this may be part of the efficiency problem, but my gun vents lightly (as in, high-pitched whining) when its shooting relatively slow (I don't have a chrono, but I'd eyeball it around 260 or 270 feet per second.) If I unscrew the adjuster so that it stops leaking, it no longer cycles. If I screw it in further to up my velocity, it vents worse.

    So I guess my question is two fold: how do I up my velocity (which spring should I switch to?), and is my awfully bad ~450 shots off a 68/4500 tank normal efficiency for a Level 10 RT Classic?
    Shane
    New RT Classic owner
    Murderous Plush Toys -- Captain
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  7. #667
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    1,480
    hey i bought a used emag with LX and it was leaky so i took it apart and i noticed there was no pistin on the bolt so do you think there is some warrenty on it or do i have to buy a new one


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  8. #668

    LVL 10 Question, what does Spring length correspond to?

    My basic question is this: What does each spring length accord to as far as resistance to the pressure behind the bolt? Is the shortest spring stronger, i.e. produces more resistance on the bolt? Or is it the case that the longer the spring is the less resistance?

    Many thanks...

    I have an Classic RT and am trying to install the LVL 10 bolt.

  9. #669
    cgrieves Guest
    The longest spring is the "hardest", the cut spring is the middle spring, and the regular automag length one is the softest.

    The hardest spring will be the softest on paint, but your gas efficiency will go down slightly.

    The spring pressure counteracts/resists the bolt until you dial up enough velocity (i.e. the air pressure behind the bolt becomes enough to collapse the spring). The only other resistance comes from the carrier O-ring. A tight o-ring will be softer on paint but you risk bolt stick.

  10. #670
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,851
    Top Secret add a shim.

    Quadster your problem is most likely having to do with the detent.

    Wickster sounds like more detent/nubbin issuses

    cky shane use the biggest carrier that doesnt leak. also install the mid spring.

    rehme talk to AGD

  11. #671
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Mt.Pleasant
    Posts
    351

    LX and trigger "feel"

    I am using an X-Valve, and a 1 line carrier, 1 shim, and everything feels pretty good. Few probs tho. Towards the end on my tuning, I was around 1200 psi bottle pressure. There is a small leak from the reg(back of valve). How should I fix this? The Setting feels awesome. I placed a ball 1/2 way in the breech and went nuts on the trigger, and the ball was just peachy.

    Also, the current setting makes the trigger return feel very weak, almost like a classic valve feel. Will uping the input pressure help this? LMK

    Parker
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  12. #672
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    11
    My "problem" is so bad, but sometimes (i had this problem about 3 times in 5 hours of paintball) the bolt will stick and not recock, well i have an adjustable geddon tank and it was set to 750-760psi input. Sometimes i could get it to recock but other times it would just make gassy noises (like the noise when it pinches) sometimes i was ripping on the gun and i might forget to turn on my revvy, so that could be the problem but also, to i have my revvy intellied to the frame so it would be fed properly but still have these issues. When i got home, i tried different carrier/shim settings, and the combo i used that day was the correct configuration. My gun runs N2 but i bought it used runing co2, so i dont have one of those new reg pistons made for N2, and the velocity was fine. Also, i got it to stick a couple times when i pinched a pen in the breach about 30-40 times, i would let up on the trigger, and pull again and it would recock (or push it back in with the pen), perfect. Now, my question is, why would it have problems on the field with pbs and not with a pen? My theory was that the 750psi input (i turned it up more when i did the pen test, go figure) was just barely good enough for average pinches but if several balls pinched (not having the revvy on and doing 5 shot bursts), it would not have anough pressure to recock. What do you think of them apples?

    thanks,
    -Alex
    p.s. sorry for the long post, i just didn't want to miss any details.

  13. #673
    cgrieves Guest
    Try an extra shim....

  14. #674
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    11
    thanks, but i tried the extra shim and it leaked..

    -Alex

  15. #675
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    montana
    Posts
    371
    automagger - turn your tank up to at least 800psi, 850 psi woudl be perfect. also, try going to the smallest spring.

  16. #676
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Dirty Dirty Souf
    Posts
    577

    What to do

    ok i think i have everything right but... when i go to put it on it will not fit the bolt want go on what do i do?

  17. #677
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    montana
    Posts
    371
    could you clarify?

  18. #678
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Dirty Dirty Souf
    Posts
    577
    like the bolt will not slide on to the rod... dunno what its called..

  19. #679
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    montana
    Posts
    371
    aahh...that, my friend, goes beyond me. sorry. i know a little bit about helping with level 10 problems, but when it comes to that, i don't know. i have heard about that problem before, but its pages back.

  20. #680
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Bridgeport, CT
    Posts
    1,583
    Ok. see. my lvl 10 shoots fine, but there is still a leak, its comming from the bolt. i have taken over 50 shots but it still leaks a bit. whats the problem?
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  21. #681
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    montana
    Posts
    371
    whats the carrier/shim setup? If i had to guess, i'd say drop down one carrier, but remember to keep the same o-ring you're using now!

  22. #682
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas
    Posts
    4

    Not sure what's wrong

    Well, after installing the lvl 10 per the instructions, The bolt does not seem to be ..lets say gentle to anything...hehe. It still has the punching power of a regular bolt. I went down to the 1.5 carrier and 2 shims (as most people are suggesting) even though per the instructions, the 2.5 carrier was fitting it correctly. I'm at a loss. Even when just doing the 1st test with out the shims and orginal spring it was not giving way 1 bit with any of the carriers and still acting like a normal bolt. This is with the X-Valve, but I do not believe it is the valve...but I could be wrong. I went ahead and put it all the way together to see if I was just not realizing that that was what it was suppose to do, but still no luck.

    Any suggestions and or help would be greatly appreciative.


    -Schuck

  23. #683
    SomebodySomeoneRTPcf Guest
    my lvl ten is leaking/ but can't be heard. It takes about a day to lose 1k of pressure and i tried every insert to sotp it. could i take it to your factory so i can get it looked at? also can the factory check that my rt is o,. just to make sure none of my o-rings r leaking? I live in chicago on the north side so it should be fairly eaisy to get to you.

  24. #684
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    542
    I fixed it, next size up carrier and small spring, and it's good.

    Ok, here's the deal:

    My lx is funking out on me. I shoot a Classic RT w/ LX run it with a Crossfire tank preset for 850 psi output.

    I gas up and get a good 10-30 shots. I let it stick, and the bolt sticks. The trigger bounces back, but the gun doesn't cycle. I puch the bolt, it shoots some. I tried all possible combos of shims, and the best I got it down to was with 2, where I can shoot 10-30, then if it sits for more than 3 seconds, the bolt sticks, the next shot vents, and it shoots a few times, randomly venting every once and a while. I've turned the velocity up, and it does nothing. I have the shortest spring that came with the LX, because anything else won't let it fire. Any ideas?
    Last edited by The Deacon; 07-20-2003 at 04:20 PM.

  25. #685
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    whiteman afb Missouri
    Posts
    17

    problems

    i just put my new mag together a couple of days ago, i'm now trying to fine tune the lx on the x valve that i have, but its not going so well. i'v got the #2 carrier in (2.5 leaks) and at the moment trying out the mediem spring. i can't get the velocity high enough for it to run reliably without the reg nut leaking. with the smallest spring it does fine, but the bolt doesn't return when i place my finger in front of it, and if i put anouther shim in (one is in already) it starts leaking, and with the one shim in and nothing leaking, when i fire air comes out of the reg nut this also happens when i just hold the trigger in but its just for a split second. any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

  26. #686

    foamy

    hey I have been having trouble getting my foamy to stay in my lvl 10 i bought one yesterday and glued it with super glue and let it dry the night when i woak up i shot the gun. i looked down the barrel and the foamy was gone. is there another alternative to foamys or should i try a better glue please suggest an alternative and a type of glue. THANKYOU FOR UR TIME

  27. #687
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    St.Louis MO
    Posts
    2

    planning on buying an x valve

    well im planning on buying an x valve...but will it come with a troubleshooting booklet or something like that for the lvl ten bolt that comes with it?..

  28. #688
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    montana
    Posts
    371
    your looking at an excellent troubleshooting booklet. this entire thread helps with just about every problem.

  29. #689
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    St.Louis MO
    Posts
    2

    Figured

    LoL...I figured that someone whould say that..but ur right this is..

  30. #690
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, Georgia
    Posts
    397
    Ok, when your bolt stops on a ball is it supposed to automatically reset or do you have to pull the trigger again before it stops leaking?

    Get back to me soon!

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