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Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #361
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
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    south cali
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    hey havoc i took out the shims so im running no springs but now when i do the paintball chop test it chops the paint ball and when i put my finger inthe breech it hits harder than my a.i.r valve so now i have a 1.5 no shims medium spring.help again please

  2. #362
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Columbus, OH
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    4

    Level 10 Velocity Question

    I have my level 10 installed and it seems to be working fine, the only problem is my velocity is all over the place. I have read through this thread and have heard several ideas, but something doesn't make sense to me. People have said they have elminated their velocity fluctuation problems by either going to the next largest carrier, going to the next shortest main spring, or by adding shims. I can see how changing the carrier would effect this, but if this doesn't work I don't see how the shims or springs would help make your velocity more stable. Changing these items would certainly effect what your velocity is, but shouldn't the velocity at least be consistent (even if it is not at the desired speed) no matter what spring or shim configuration you use? That being said, if my gun starts to leak at the next largest carrier, what are my other options to try and stabilize my velocity?

  3. #363
    Hey AGD. I just go a used RT from ProPaintball, (Team Lockout's store). I know nothing about mags. They said there is a level 10 in it. There is a small leak coming out of the power feed. I dont have any spair springs or powertube spacers. I dont know how to take it apart anyway. What is wrong?

    GEAR

    -red to black maxed freeflow cocker
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  4. #364
    Hey MG79- just to make sure, are you using a nitro tank?


    My Trading Feedback Thread Great traders: PaInTbAlLeR476, Shrapnel, Magdude, I <3 Mags.

    Setup:
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    Intelliframe
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  5. #365
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Thiensville, WI
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    17
    I just saw that my rubber piece is gone from my bolt. How do I hold down the extra rubber piece? Should I use super glue?

  6. #366
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Decatur, AL USA
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    6,772
    Ok chew on this Mr. Big Brainy guys. I'm messing with my shiney new X-valve today and it was breaking paint like mad. I am running 2 shims and the longest spring. It did'nt appear to be chopping as I was shooting slowly with HALO B with fresh batteries. But it was definatly breaking in the breech. I did a bounce test with the 3 brands of paint I used, and 3 different barrels. The bolt did seem to hit a bit harder than my other valve with the medium spring.

    So my question is this. Can you lighten the bolt smack even further even though you're already using the longest spring? I tried every combo I could think of.


    Moorewatch

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  7. #367
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    Oct 2000
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    Decatur, AL USA
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    Originally posted by XxslayerxX
    I just saw that my rubber piece is gone from my bolt. How do I hold down the extra rubber piece? Should I use super glue?
    It's not totally important to even have that but....

    Scuff the old glue off the face of the bolt and glue it back on. Some people swear by super glue gel, but I used some stuff called Permatex Gasket Sealant. It dries flexible so the shock of the bolt slapping back and forth does'nt crack the foamie away like super glue.

  8. #368
    Hey Load SM5... there is a way to slow the bolt down some more, that is to put a tighter/smaller carrier inside the power tube. Since the power piston on the bolt (or whatever the center tube part is called) will have a lot more friction on a tighter oring it will slow down some.

  9. #369
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    Oct 2000
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    I had thought about that but I thought I'd wait and see what others say. That seems a little like driving the car around with the brakes on. It seems like that would wear stuff out faster, probably just an o-ring. It is contradictory to what the correct LX installation is though.

  10. #370
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
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    Texas
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    bratch could you follow up? If your input wasnt high enough, your velocity was still too low. If the valve doesnt spit air out the back and it's still not shooting properly(but you input is high) then keep turning.

    epterry you need to add a shim or two if it doesnt bleed pressure when it stops on a ball, that's the rule. (make sure your shims are not bent)

    gcube talk to me on aim.

    MG79 just use the biggest carrier that doesnt leak, your on the right path, however your reg seat or paint/barrel match may be the ones to blame.(dont forget to put a couple of drops of oil into that valve)

    impulse666 If I were you, I'd go back to the store and ask them for the rest of the level 10 kit that came with that marker or just buy the rest of it from the airgun online store. It sounds like you might just have to go down a carrier.

    XxslayerxX Do what Load said, and use QUALITY superglue. The Foamie on these type of bolts is needed or your ballstack messes up and gives you a bunch of mechanical ball bobble(worse than blowback).

    Load SM5 Your X-valve probably came with a carrier that was a tad tight so you wouldnt have to mess with it when it broke in. To have the softest set-up you need to use the long spring and the biggest carrier that doesnt leak. Don't go crazy with that input pressure either.

    Dern Please do me a favor and delete that post of yours, someone scanning through the thread may read that and follow it. A tighter carrier requires more pressure to move, once you get that pressure the bolt is moving faster than before. It also causes bolt stick and inconsistent velocites, it doesnt make anything better in any way. Tom was mistaken about this.

  11. #371
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    Load SM5 Your X-valve probably came with a carrier that was a tad tight so you wouldnt have to mess with it when it broke in. To have the softest set-up you need to use the long spring and the biggest carrier that doesnt leak. Don't go crazy with that input pressure either.

    Yes I know, that's exactly what I did. That's the problem. I am using the biggest carrier without leaking and the longest spring. Input pressure of 850.

  12. #372
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    McDonough, GA
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    3
    OK....So I just received my new requlator piston and seat ordered directly from AGD. It didn't make any difference. My problem is that I can only get around 250 fps and when I try to crank it up past that, air starts blowing out the back of the gun.

  13. #373
    Havoc_online I had tried useing different amounts of shims I have fixed the problem now tho by going to the next size down carrier.

  14. #374
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Columbus, OH
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    4
    Dern, yes I am using a HPA tank. I went to the next largest carrier and it did not leak, which is odd, because it did leak the first time I put it in the gun. My velocity is better, however, it is still varying by 20-30 fps.

    Havoc, if I'm using the largest carrier that doesn't leak and I am using HPA, is the variation in velocity coming from my paintball to barrel match? Also, I noticed that if I have no shims in my level ten it seems to work fine or if I put all four shims that came in my kit in the marker, it works fine as well. Since there seems to be no difference in my gun, which setup would be better?

  15. #375
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    Mar 2002
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    Albu-quer-que NM, wish I was in MA
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    I'm in the same situation as Load. Also I need to use 4 shims, any less and it won't reset quickly or at all. Is that normal?

    Also I only get about 900-950 shots from a 68/4500.

    Thanx
    Last edited by obsolete898; 01-06-2003 at 06:34 PM.

  16. #376
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    Sep 2002
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    So Ill
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    ok, i am running no shims, the #1 carrier and the smallest spring, whenever i air up it doesnt leak but when i shoot the bolt only moves a little forward and then it stops and vents until i reset it with a spring, whats up? thanks for any help.
    [*img]http://www.browndotdesign.com/Xodus/AO/YeahThatsMe.jpg[/img]
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  17. #377
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    Jan 2002
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    pittsburgh, PA
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    Ok...
    I'm using the long spring, 1.5 carrier (first one that doesn't leak) and 2 shims. The squeegee test was fine (bolt stopped, then reset.). The finger test was the same, and the force on my finger wasn't so bad. However, when my revvy batteries died in-game yesterday, i started chopping like it was going out of style. How do I minimize the force of the bolt during the forward stroke to keep chops from happening?

  18. #378
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    Load SM5 I'd like to get my hands on your marker and give a go at it if you'd be willing.

    treyco sounds like either your carrier is too tight and you need a lot of pressure to get past the friction or your bolt doesnt fit the body properly. What's your input pressure and are you using HPA or Co2?

    MG79 the most common problem by far with consistency is usually solved by going to a good paint/barrel match(use good quality paint too, cheap stuff wont be consistent in size from ball to ball). just go with 2 shims, if you run into any problems(boltstick-add another shim, leak when you fire- take a shim out)

    obsolete898 your boltstem may be just in tolerance, that could be why it needs all the shims. As for effciency, what's your input and what type of barrel are you using? what spring?

    yeahthatsme What's your input? You sure your velocity is up high enough? Have you tried to see if it leaked with a bigger carrier?

  19. #379
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    Texas
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    shadow462 what type of valve and what's your input? Is the cut side of the spring on the bolt end? If it's that bad you can goto the longer spring at the expense of a little more gas to be used but IMO it's something else. I can throw a VL200 on a Emag and walk the trigger with the cut spring and cheap paint without a single chop.

  20. #380
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Location
    Decatur, AL USA
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    I appreciate the offer Havoc. I sent the gun to Airgun to have them look at it while they install the ACE. Hopefully they'll let me know what I was doing wrong. I've installed the LX 5 at least times so far with no problems, and this one had me stumped.

  21. #381
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    pittsburgh, PA
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    315
    havoc: I'm already using the long spring. It's a ReTro valve, and I've got about 650 going into it cause my maxattack needs a new load spring.

  22. #382
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    Sep 2002
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    So Ill
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    input: 800 psi

    velocity: not sure

    other carriers: this is the only one that works

    i will try the velocity when i get some more air.

  23. #383
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    Jan 2003
    Location
    USA-Indiana
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    5

    spring addj.

    when I put the largest spring it doesnt fire at all... even when I have my velocity turned almost all the way up...same with the middle spring, the only one that works is the stock spring??? What am I doing wrong?

  24. #384
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    Originally posted by Havoc_online
    obsolete898 your boltstem may be just in tolerance, that could be why it needs all the shims. As for effciency, what's your input and what type of barrel are you using? what spring?
    My input is at 850psi and I'm using the stock barrel. I'm using the longest spring. It still seems like the bolt hits hard, I've been chopping like 1-3 balls a game.

    Like Load I've already put in 4 of these things and this one just won't work to it's full potential. I can't figure out the problem. Thanx Havoc, all your help is greatly appreciated.

  25. #385
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    Jan 2003
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    USA-Indiana
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    5

    Re: spring addj.

    Originally posted by Fugifilm
    when I put the largest spring it doesnt fire at all... even when I have my velocity turned almost all the way up...same with the middle spring, the only one that works is the stock spring??? What am I doing wrong?
    Fugifilm-Did u try to chrono it and mayb turn down the Velocity??? That could help dramatically.
    Automag Classic
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  26. #386
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    High Desert, California
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    283
    My power tube tip came off during some paint testing and the rest of the LX stuff ended up residing in the bolt. Chewed up the o-ring carrier o-ring up pretty bad in the process. I replaced the carrier's o-ring and ended up with the slight barrel hiss on gas-up. Removed everything, oiled it and hiss went away. Then I developed the same hiss after a string of about 50 shots after the initial gas-up.

    Here's the set-up:
    850 regulated input (can't change that)
    Medium Spring
    2 Spacers
    1 Line Carrier

    Tom, this is the LX that you were surprised at at the SoCal AO Meet. You stuck your finger in the breech and was surprised that I could get it up to 315 at the chrono. I'd like to keep the same "softness" if at all possible.

    Thanks in advance,
    Charles

  27. #387
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    NOR*CAL
    Posts
    225
    on my mag, when I turn on the on/off, it will shoot correctly once, then the level 10 will shoot half way like a ball is in the power feed, and then it will shoot normally, and then shoot like a ball is in the p/f, and so on...any pointers???

  28. #388
    Join Date
    Jun 2001
    Location
    Norman, OK
    Posts
    470
    LX went from bad to worse... I take it apart to try other cariers and when I put it back together I get a gusher of air down the barrel. This occured with all of the carriers. To top that off I couldn't get the dynaflow to quit leaking. If anybody has any good ideas on the LX let me know otherwise its going in to AGD. And to think it was a perfect initial set-up
    There's all kind of songs about babies and love gone right, but for some unknown reason nobody wants to play them tonight.

  29. #389
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Texas
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    Load SM5 np bud, I'm very curious as to what the problem is though lmk what it is if you find out. How cold was it when this happened?

    shadow462 You need a higher input to give a good crisp cycle and check your nubbins, if you dont have plastic, get some. Also, how cold was it when this happened?

    Fugifilm keep turning it up till it bleeds pressure, then you know you've gone to high. You may be running to tight of a carrier(make sure the carrier and o'ring are installed properly) or not high enough of an input pressure. What type of valve and how much pressure are you running? Did you reply to yourself with a bogus solution or was that a server error?

    obsolete898 Your input and barrel are perfect(as long as the paint fits alright) the long spring is what's killing your effciency. It seems that the problem may lie in your boltstem being slightly off, changing the length of the lp stage. Still, 1-3 balls a game is way too much, how cold was it, did the paint fit the barrel ok? Plastic nubbins ok? I could take a look at it if you want. And your welcome- thank you's are always greatly appreciated.

    CMDane the hiss may be coming from a bad carrier o'ring(the outer black one), or your other o'ring may of just broken in a bit more,(or it got scratched or damaged when that happened)

    devingoode sounds like you have a low input pressure or a low velocity.

    bratch fix your tank first and get your input high enough, then we'll work on the LX, the leaks can be only so many things, be patient and in the end, you'll be glad for it.

  30. #390
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
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    Decatur, AL USA
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    Originally posted by Havoc_online
    Load SM5 np bud, I'm very curious as to what the problem is though lmk what it is if you find out. How cold was it when this happened?
    Only 55 degrees Havoc. Not nearly cold enough for what was going on. I'll let you know what the prob was, the curiosity is killing me.

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