I have a silver, gold (shortest) and red spring... it doesn't work on any of the springs.
Thnx for the suggestion.. next?
I don't know enough about the older RT to know for sure, but it sure sounds like you need a higher pressure reg piston. That would be my recommendation at this point. You might go ahead and call up AGD and ask them if your older RT has the older reg piston. They'll give you the definite scoop.Originally posted by Cthulhu
My understanding is I need a new reg piston, is that correct? Is it old enough to have "The old reg piston"?
The arrogance of other people annoys me. My own doesn't bother me a bit.
I tried reinstalling my level X from scratch and still couldn't get it to stop that little leak out the back end so I put a new HP reg in the AIR valve and that solved my problem. Old valve I guess.
I put in my level 10 this saterday and it acts kinda wierd. Here are my problems.
1. After about 500 shots its started making a extremly small leak down the barrel, I think that it needs one more shim but I thought that I would ask first.
2. All the balls curve to the right. It may have something to do with the leak, I dont really know though.
3. The range seems to have droped by about 50 feet or so. I am shooting it at about 260fps.
4. While its leaking if I turn on the safty and pull the trigger it stops leaking.
Any help would be great guys
It sounds to me like your on/off is leaking. Try pulling the on/off, oilingit up a bit, and then putting it back. Make sure you get it in all the way. See if that doesn't help a bit.
jesseyo13 1. sounds like your powertube o-ring is getting broke in. Try the next smaller carrier using the same o-ring, the white one. 2. bad paint, bad paint to barrel match, and/or low velocity?
Thanks guys, Ill try all of your sugestions
chrono your fps to 285-300. i think that'll help a little.
Aim: ClouD ToT
i have to use my stock spring on my mag or the velocity is too high and it will start to vent out the back. I read that i may need a new reg piston or something. I have a classic valve and i dont have any leaks as of yet but i am worried about my velociy. Not chronoed it yet, i dont have one at my house. but i have shot it next to another gun that i know is right and my mag shoots a little hot. i hope the solution is cheap. Also what will cutting one of the new springs solve, is that another problem.
heres my problem, not exactly sure what is causing it, bolt or other: http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...hreadid=132989
Hi Guys, SOrry if this question gets asks constantly, but theres a lot of pages that i'd have to go through to find the solution to my problem!...Ok, i've installed my lvl 10 and when i gas up the mag it starts leaking where the velocity adjustment is at...What should i do???
DarkKnightHeaven, you need a new reg piston. You can order it from the AGD website. It pretty cheap, like $10 or sometihng like that. It's a higher pressure piston than the original and will not vent as quickly.
Slade, I posted in your other thread.
I think you just need to move your Level 10 carrier o-ring to the next smaller carrier.
thanks, plazmic! it worked. i would never have thought that the problem would just be that the gun is breaking in. i dont have any leaking now... although the trigger bounce dropped, and i cant sweet spot nearly as well any more... oh well, id rather have a working gun without trigger bounce than a leaking gun with it. thanks for the help.
My Pleasure. Actually, the o-ring should break in just alittle bit more and you'll get some of that bounce back.
anyone want to work on my question a few posts up. please.
JDaniels, Sorry, I meant to include you on that last post to Darkknightheaven. You probably also need to get a new reg piston from AGD. If you are working fine with the Level 10 but just can't get your velocity up before it vents then it's the reg piston. The Level 10 needs a higher blow-off pressure than the old reg piston will allow.
If you are shooting hot, however, you may not need the reg piston. It is okay to use the stock spring, you just won't get quite the same bounce off of a ball in the breach and may get the occasional chop. I used the stock spring when I was on a classic valve and didn't chop a ball for months at a time.
I hope that helps.
Last edited by Plazmic; 04-10-2004 at 05:39 PM.
is the foamie at the end of the bolt a nessecity?
if not will it affect anything?
t33kyboy "So if a cat is dropped from 11 inches, it will most likely die."
noOriginally posted by trevorjk
is the foamie at the end of the bolt a nessecity?
Ok I get my level 10. I immediately install it. First thing first, I put the backing washer in which it says may be a slight squeeze. Quite the contrary, the washer almost falls all the way through. I figure hey it is seated no biggie just got a slightly smaller one. I pick the carrier that seems to work and slide it in the power tube. I use a piece of macro line to push it into place, didnt have a blunt pen handy. All seemd fine I finish up and go to gas up my gun. It leakes I figure no biggie Ill change the carrier. Nope, the carrier is absolutely stuck in my power tube. It will not clear the threads in the power tube. I have tried everything, I have used extra oil, I have tried to pull it out with my pick, nothing. It will not budge. I am afraid I am going to srape the crap out of my power tube trying to pry this thing out. Has anyone got any idea how to get this thing out?
Edit: Gun is an old school RT
i have an x-valve, but i dont think that that will make a difference. i was having leaking once my gun broke in, and had to change the carrier. i had the same problem with taking out the carrier, and what i found out works best is to unwind a paperclip and make a small hook at the end, maybe 3mm long. then you can slide it through the carrier, catch the carrier with the hook and pull it out.
Most people use the Feild strip screw that holds the valve in but that wouldn't work in your case, as you have an original RT. It will seem like you are threading the carrier when you stick the screw down the tip and turn it but it will only take hold and not actually ruin the carrier or o-rings. It may be worth ordering one or checking around locally to see if you can get one.Originally posted by Liquid_pjear
I am afraid I am going to srape the crap out of my power tube trying to pry this thing out. Has anyone got any idea how to get this thing out?
Edit: Gun is an old school RT
ok, wen i pull the trigger the gun jus goes like ..pddpd almost like it isnt getting enough pressure, but i turned it way more then it should need. the veloctiy screw has only like 2 threads showing. i tride different springs and different carriers. i have the one with 1 line and 1 dot in, and the one with 2 lines leaks. but the gun doesnt work with the one wih 2 lines, it does the same thing. wat should i do?
If they dont have paintball in heaven...I'm not going
"Bling Bling" and "ice"....225.50
baby blue Southpole gear...348.39
Relizing your white.....PRICELESS
Joe: "Ya, I jus got a Palmer Female Stabalizer"
Bob: "Really, I could use one of those"
Joe: "Why, you dont play paintball"
Bob: "No, I mean for my wife"
Make sure you have good pressure in your tank and crank the velocity all the way up to start. You can lower it after it's working.
ok im a dumbass. when i was doing this i was working on this pnuematic trigger frame. i had the frame off the gun, and i put 2 2 screws back in with out the trigger frame so i could gas the gun up and shoot it by taking an allen wrnch and pushing the sear. but the front screw was all the way up in the gun (no barre) and the bolt was hiting the screw and bouncing off. go ahead make fun. but the pnuematic trigger works and kicks ***
Well, all I'd say is that you didn't really give us all the information we needed to help you.
Glad it's working for you, though!
Okay, I'm still having issues with this Original RT.
1) I installed the carrier that it recomended
2) When re-assembled, the marker would not fire, it would leak out the velocity nut.
3) Tried many different carrier/shim combos. No avail.
4) Tried different springs, no avail.
5) Tried my e-mag piston, it seemed to work slightly better, but would still not fire consistantly.
5.5) Put the O.RT piston in my e-mag, would not fire reliably.
6) Put the O.RT piston back in the O.RT, it now fires 2-3 times, then it re-charges very slowly, then kicks the trigger back out. Sometimes I can fire a string of 10-12 shots (velocity unknown), but then it dies, slowly recharges.
6.5) Somestimes the trigger just goes limp, or spongy.
6.6) Tightening the field strip screw helps, but I can't get anything consistant..
Can someone recomend something plz!? I need this working for my team-mate.
Wow. You've got me stumped, man. Anybody else have any ideas?
By the looks of things, it appears to be trigger rod length related! I lengthened the trigger rod 2 turns (length??) and re-installed it... it rips now! Now to see if I can put my old RT piston back in..
Yay, it works with the old piston! Amazing.