i would up the velocity its normal to do so with the lvl 10 your input pressure is fine tho.
i would up the velocity its normal to do so with the lvl 10 your input pressure is fine tho.
yeah but if i up the velocity then i won't be able to play at the field because the limit is 280 is their any way i can adjust the sear that would have any affect (like moving is closer or farther away from the trigger)
no dont touch the sear. when you chrono it now are you sure its at 270 or was this before you added the lvl 10 that it was shooting 270?
i have used it several times since installing the lvl. 10 and the velocity is at 270
the squishy black part came off of my bolt what do i do?!
well it all started with me and the Cheat one day...
hey i have nothing but problems with my mag the day i got it and im going to have to send it in the 2nd time in three months do u know where i can file a complaint or if there is a return policy on these markers
me-> ---- <-- ur best friend u-->
everybody else in the world
ohhh yeah pm me if u know the answers to my problems
Well, I finally got my Level 10! WOOOHOOO!
Any ways, I have been working on it on and off for the last couple of days..
I am running a minimag with a Standard valve, body and such.
I currently have the #1 Carrier in it and using the middle spring and have 2 shims.
I have a slight leak down the barrel of the marker. When I put slight pressure on the trigger it stops.
I have tried removing 1 shim and it got worse. I tried adding a shim and it seemed to get a slight bit better so I added a 2nd shim (up to 4 now) and it is about the same.. 5 made it worse LOL..
So of course I read a large portion of this thread (ok, I admit it, I didnt read the whole thing! Ugg I dont have years! LOL).. Any ways, the information that I seemed to pull was go back to 2 shims and down a 1/2 carrier size.. Does this sound right?
Ok, lets also see if I understand things correctly.
The Carrier size is the inner diameter of the carrier for the shaft of the bolt.
The spring controls the strength at which it moves on forward when impacting the ball, but also has an effect on the high/low of the FPS (feet per second).
What in the world does the shim do? If I understand it, it basically adds or subtracks the time frame at which it goes into stage 2, correct? The more shims the longer it takes (there by giving it a longer chance to bounce back).
Suggestions? Thoughts? Comments ?
Jason - Captain of Team VEXED - Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Team Sponsor - Pioneer Chrysler Jeep in Wetaskiwin
Position: Back Player
J&J 14" Ceramic Barrel Or Freak Kit with JT Boom Box Case
Level 10 Anit-chop bolt & Level 7 Valve
Red Gas Through Grip
Rogue 15* ASA
Rogue Snatch Grip
Marksman Dropforward/Shoulder stock
134/3000 AIR!!! LOOK OUT, Enough to SHOOT A CASE! LOL!
Maybe Not so Soon, But coming! :
ULE body or Custom Scorpion Body
Is the lv-10 dvd/cd worth purchasing?
I do not have one obviously.
All black ULE RT Pro:
intelliframe with dye sticky 3's
soon to have:
the spring does control the pressure the bolt exerts, the heavier/longer the spring the less pressure. it does not effect the FPS, but with a longer spring you need to turn up the velocity to overcome the springs pressure, and therefore you must have a higher pressure (and thus velocity) with a longer spring.Originally Posted by Battlewear
the shims alter how far the bolt has to move before air will vent if there is a ball halfway in the chamber. the more shims there are, the sooner the air will vent, and thus the lower the liklihood of chopping. correct me if i am wrong on this.
and player4, i think you can find the info that is on the cd online. if not, i can copy it, zip it, and e-mail it to you (as long as agd is okay with that)
Ok, some new problems here
I am running a Minimag with a LX..
Ok here are the steps I have done
1st Step - #2 Carrier, 2 shims, Middle spring
Results - Major leaking down the barrel
2nd - 1.5 carrier, 2 shims, middle spring
Results - leaking down the barrel, not as bad
3rd - 1 carrier, 2 shims, middle spring
Results - Slight leaking down the barrel, when trigger is pressed it stops.
4th - 1 carrier, 1 shim, middle spring
Results - MORE leaking down the barrel, when trigger is pressed it stops.
5th - 1 carrier, 3 shims, middle spring
Results - very VERY little leaking down the barrel, when trigger is pressed it stops.
6th - 1 carrier, 4 shims, middle spring
Results - Exactly the same as 5th.
At this point I thought I would go down a 1/2 size in the carrier and back to 2 shims..
7th - .5 carrier, 2 shims, middle spring
Results - NO LEAKING YEAH! Oh wait, now it will only half cycle.. I can get it to fire once in a while but not all the time (1 out of 30 to 50 shots, more often the faster I fire).
8th, 9th, 10th and 11th, same as 7th except a change in number of shims - 0, 1, 3 or 4 shims..
Results - No change from 7th.
My input pressure from my HPA is at 1000 PSI. I have attempted to turn up the speed (which is almost compltely in) but I start to get leaking out the back ( I am going to be buying a new Hight Pressue Regulator Piston)
So, am I just at the point of a regulator piston change or is there something else I am missing?
Last edited by Battlewear; 11-03-2004 at 05:44 AM.
Ditch all of the shims.
Go to the gold spring and use that.
Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak using the SAME o-ring. Pull out the o-ring from the carrier each time and put it in the new carrier you install to test.
Hey BlackVCGOriginally Posted by BlackVCG
Ok, as follows
12 - Went to #1 carrier, no shims and gold spring (shortest of the 3 pack)
Results - Leaking down the barrel
13 - Went back to .5 carrier, no shims and gold spring
Results - Marker fires now, getting the slight leaking down the barrel but the anti chop only seems to be there in a minor amount now.. At this point I am not sure about sticking my finger in the breach any more LOL I stuck my squeege in breach (down the barrel) and at any thing more then a 1/4 movement of the bolt it would almost fire my squeege out of my hand..
Should I look at adding a couple of shims to delay stage 2 of the firing?
I personally would like to run the middle or longer to get a little softer responce to the ball, is this possible? I feel that at present I am still going to be getting chops with the gold spring.
Ok here's the lowdown. No paint through my gun only dryfired, with a logic vert frame. When I first installed the frame the gun ripped, I could sweet spot like no other. But eh bolt would get stuck sometimes. Went to a smaller carrier and the bolt stop getting stuck but i could not find the sweet spot. Also if i put the red or silver main springs on the gun, it's extremely hard to sweet spot if at all. I have been using 5 or 6 shims in my ULT trigger.
I was wondering who has some good setups for the ult to where i can sweetspot and have the anti chop feature still be effective.
if you were getting bolt stick wouldnt you have to go to a bigger carrier not a smaller one? Have you tried using the longest spring with your current setup? have you tried increasing your velocity until it starts to leak air out the back and lower it down just so when it stops? what is your input psi. You would need anywhere from 850-1000 input psi into your gun.
Yes i mean't i went to a bigger one. Sorry i've been troubleshooting it all day. I'm running a preset 800psi into my gun and I have used the longest spring. I'm running 5 or 6 shims in the ult trigger. I have not tried turning the velocity up all the way and then backing it down. But as of right now the anti chop will not work and i cannot sweet spot it. I have the longest spring in and 6 shims.
Hi there..Originally Posted by BlackVCG
I was just thinking and I would like to know what you and others think about this..
I was running exactly how I wanted the LX to run when I had .5 Carrier with middle spring and 2 shims except for the fact that I got the leak when I took my finger off the trigger (no pressure on the trigger)..
Should I look at moving to the 0 Carrier?? It is basically leaking down the barrel with the .5, would it not be better to move to the 0 carrier so that I can keep the softness of the bolt for tourney play?
Just a thought I had this morning
PS. I am still using the same Carrier O-Ring that I have since the start so no worries there! I know they need to get broken in
hey ive got a rt ule custom with lvl10. it resets fine and no bolt stick......... but it seems like it would chop a misfed ball.... should i just go up the next longest spring? im using the stock spring...
I'm completely at a loss here. LX worked for a long time, then I started having problems. Other issues cropped up and not I'm not sure what the problem(s) is/are.
LX was working, then I had a broken spring. Replaced the spring (I don't remember which one it is now, I think it was the cut), LX worked. Got a Z-grip, put it on and spent the better part of 2 months trying to get it to shoot (adjusting the sear length), only to find out that the on/off pin was the wrong size. Got the correct on/off pin (and adjusted the sear to the proper length) and everything was fine. The pin sticks slightly out of the valve and requires taking the mainbody off of the rail and manually pushing the pin in to remove the valve.
Rewind to the last day I played in March. LX started leaking, then got to the point of not shooting. I put the RTP away and pulled out the Micro. Promptly forgot about the RTP.
Pulled out the RTP to try to get it going. Went through the installation process, starting with a 2 carrier, 2 shims and the cut spring. Gassed it up, but it wouldn't cycle. Installed the short spring, gassed it up and it would shoot once, but the recharge was very slow (2-3 seconds). Slight barrel leak with both springs.
1.5 carrier, 2 shims, cut spring. No cycle. Slow barrel leak.
1.5 carrier, 2 shims, short spring. Slow recharge, slightly better than before. Slow barrel leak.
1 carrier, 2 shims, cut spring. No cycle, no leak.
1 carrier, 2 shims, short spring. Slow recharge, slightly better than the 1.5 carrier, no leak.
.5 carrier, 2 shims, cut spring. No cycle, no leak.
.5 carrier, 2 shims, short spring. No cycle, no leak.
0 carrier, 2 shims, cut spring. No cycle, no leak.
0 carrier, 2 shims, short spring. No cycle, no leak.
All of these steps started out at the velocity last played with in March, roughly 280 on the chrono. Regulator was turned up roughly 3/4 turns until it vented out the back. I'm at a loss here and about to take the LX out and just go to the L7. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
1st generation Z-grip
.73 on/off pin (would NOT shoot with a .75!)
900# System-X tank
Took out the LX, installed the L7 kit with a .225 spacer. Shot like it did when I first got it and the LX had just finished breaking in. So, it is a problem with the LX and not the length of the on/off pin.
Last edited by CMDane; 11-11-2004 at 03:49 PM.
hey whats up everyone long time reader first time poster. i got an automag classic with power feed r/t valve, and teflon body.i bought it used from some guy for $150 complete with some other stuff include, so basically all i needed was a $100 nitro tank. i went to a paintball store, paintball depot, to pick up a level 10 kit. they were selling them for $95 but the guy said he couldnt install due to the fact that it had to go back to airgun designs for some piece. well i want to try it myself. im pretty mechanically inclined, so i dont think it will be a problem. i heard tho that there are many small and tough parts in my gun, so what do you guys think? by the way what part is he talking about? and i see lots of post with people having problems, so should i install or send it somewhere? by the way, kinda off this topic, but they guy who sold me a gun gave me a evolution hopper. its horrible. what do you guys recommend? looking at the evo 2 or apache. give me some info. thanks guys in advance.
Install it yourself just refer back to this forum when you have problems and the mag guru's should have you covered. Hopper: I would get a evo2 or a reloader by empire.
Proud owner of two mags
RT ULE Custom(primary)
Automag classic with lvl7(secondary)
Both with many upgrades---lazy and dont wanna type...
thanks alot. yea i guess i could try but they said there is a certain part that older mags dont have that only airgun has. im gonna start after my last week paintballing this season outdoors. so hopefully if anything happens i have time to fix. thanks guys. by the way looed for hoppers. which one reloader halo or b or what? theres like 3 different versions. also where is a good spot to pick up the level 10 kit online? thanks
automag, r/t valve, teflon body, power feed, dead on drop forward, steel lines, 32* 14" barrell, armston 8" barrell.
I Am Having A Small Leakage From The P-tube. I Have The Smallest Carrier Added Shims And Taken Away Shims From My Mini-mag Still Leaks. I Put A New P-tube O-ring And It Still Leaks. I Don't Know What The Problem Is, Could It Be My On/off Valve Not Sealing Properly Or My Valve Pin Is Too Short. Need Help !!
The mini disk the kit cam with does not work. I am attempting to install the Level 10.
If you don't eat pink tacos your friends will!!!!
Xmag CNC Pewter VV04837
Thanks, that was a great help.