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Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #1141
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Brooklyn NY
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    539
    that should slide off remove the fomie or you can try withouth removing it and you should be able to stick something think down there to push it out

  2. #1142
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
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    AO's resident medic
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    681
    so what sthe general concensus; hyperframe or lvl 10 but not both?

  3. #1143
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
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    Traverse City, Michigan
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    367
    I tried that, this puppy is really stick though

  4. #1144
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Tampa, FL
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    18
    Ok i have a new Custom ULE mag which i cant get the bolt to reset all the way. It doesnt stick in the forward positin all the way it resets almost all the way back to where it should be but is like a tiny bit befre totally resetting. All i have to do is push it slightly back and *click* it barely moves and its reset.

    Heres my set up smallest carrier and no shims. From what i know this should be the best set up to break the carrier o ring in and etc. I have installed a level 10 bolt on my other mag which has the is just a level 7 valve. I dunno if its the x valve that makes it tougher to break in or what. Oh yeah i have the ULT installed as well with either 5 or 6 shims. The help with this would be greatly appreciated because im pretty stumped here on what it could be.
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  5. #1145
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    New Jersey
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    86
    Hello, what do you guys think of 2.5 carrier, 2 shims and small spring....shoots pretty damn nice, but how can i tell if it will chop. I tested using a squeegee. If the pressure is low I get a barrel leak, when I crank up on it, its fine.
    If you don't eat pink tacos your friends will!!!!

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  6. #1146
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    north carolina
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    9
    Ok, we have a problom. I got my lv X today for christmas. Me and my dad were installing it and we have tried every oring carrier but none fit "snug." All of them slide on and slide on with ease. When shot with every carrier the bolt vents i guess because alot of air rushes out and the bolt will not fire. The air is only stopped when i hold down the trigger. The gun fires fine with the lv 7 but cant get the lv X to install.

    PLEASE HELP

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  7. #1147
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    tucson AZ
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    208

    help

    ok i got my lvl 10 and it works but it dosent work all the time. im using the smallest spacer but some times it still chops its not a major problem but it wont chop then the next ball will the oring should be broken in by now i played all day?

  8. #1148
    NewMagMan21 Guest
    I got a Lvl 10 kit for my mag about 2 months ago. I've played about 3-4 games with it and have been noticing some air effieceny problems . The problem is that whenever my tank's psi drops to about 1000 the gun will not shoot. It almost seems like at that pressure the gun short pulls itself....er whatever. Ummm when you pull the trigger all the way back the bolt wont go all the way forward... ( I dont know how to explain any better) anyway before I installed the Lvl 10 the gun could fire until about 200 psi (not far of course but still). If anyone has any clue of what Im talking about try to help please

  9. #1149
    Quote Originally Posted by birdAGD
    ok i got my lvl 10 and it works but it dosent work all the time. im using the smallest spacer but some times it still chops its not a major problem but it wont chop then the next ball will the oring should be broken in by now i played all day?
    when you say smallest spacer you do mean the largest carrier that will not leak correct.

  10. #1150
    Quote Originally Posted by NewMagMan21
    I got a Lvl 10 kit for my mag about 2 months ago. I've played about 3-4 games with it and have been noticing some air effieceny problems . The problem is that whenever my tank's psi drops to about 1000 the gun will not shoot. It almost seems like at that pressure the gun short pulls itself....er whatever. Ummm when you pull the trigger all the way back the bolt wont go all the way forward... ( I dont know how to explain any better) anyway before I installed the Lvl 10 the gun could fire until about 200 psi (not far of course but still). If anyone has any clue of what Im talking about try to help please
    mags need atleast 800psi to run properly and with the use of the lvlX it has been proven that it does need more air to run properly about 50psi or so. I know at about 1000psi my xvalved Lvlx mag shoots fine till about 850-900 then it starts to lose distance etc.

  11. #1151
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Whidbey Island, WA
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    108
    alrighty folks, i'm trying to get my lvl10 up and running and just have a few quick (and possibly dumb) questions. I'm running a 1.5 carrier...it's the largest that won't leak......and no shims. I also have the longest spring in. The gun fires every time I pull the trigger, and I can stick my finger in the breach and the bolt works....no leaks. So:

    It seems that the bolt is still slamming into my finger enough that it would chop paint. If at any time I put pressure on the bolt, it simply won't budge. If I back my finger off a smidge, then it vents, but again, I feel the pressure would chop the ball. Can someone shed a bit of detail on this? I don't use any shims because according to the instruction disc, it seems that those are only used if the bolt sticks forward and doesn't reset. Correct? Should I add some? Why, how many, what am I looking for?

  12. #1152
    Not sure if this will work but you could try adding a bit more oil on the lvl10 stem which is inside the bolt, but usually the further your finger is away from the bolt then the harder it will feel, the closer your finger was to the bolt the impact is much less. If you wanna try adding a shim at a time then go for it but only go one at a time. If it starts to leak take a shim out.

  13. #1153
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Whidbey Island, WA
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    108
    so a bit of oil aside, everything sounds good? Me thinks that I will chrono my Mag here this weekend (hopefully) and maybe do the taped ball test. If there's an issue, i'll come back screaming for help, and most likely crying

  14. #1154
    Yes it should work just fine, im running the 2.5 carrier with no shims. I have about 3 tanks of air through my xvalved lvlX mag and it seems as it gets broken in the force of the bolt gets softer. You also might want to try switching out springs to the middle one if that helps on the effect of the lvlX, im using the middle one.

  15. #1155
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Whidbey Island, WA
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    108
    cool. Thanks for the helpage. update to come when all the testing is done with.

  16. #1156
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Barrie,Ontario Canada
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    427

    Wondering

    I bought a used Level 10 and I don't have any foamie's. Question is will the level 10 still work or will I need to get foamies for it. Can you just buy foamies from the agd store or can you make them your self and how are they held on.


    Thxs for the help
    THE YOGSTER STRIKES AGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!
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  17. #1157
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Whidbey Island, WA
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    108
    You can buy foamies from the AGD store. Use super glue to stick it on. Just make sure that you clean the area to be glued....alchohol or something.....and let it dry completely before using....

    Whether you can go without one, I don't know, but I wouldn't. Just my $.02 though

  18. #1158
    NewMagMan21 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Carbon Blue
    I know at about 1000psi my xvalved Lvlx mag shoots fine till about 850-900 then it starts to lose distance etc.
    Thats what my mag did before I put in the LvlX. But now hte mag wont shoot at all at 1000(ish) psi

  19. #1159
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sandy, Ut
    Posts
    244
    the lvl 10 will work without the foamie

  20. #1160
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    sandy utah
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    268
    i already said that it would, i didn't have them on either of my automags. In fact i tried to superglue new ones on but quickly decided it was pretty much impossible, they just shot off within 10 minutes anyway. how is the tank working did you try it again.


    1/35 sfl emag

    want to trade 68/4500 for 88/4500

  21. #1161
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Sandy, Ut
    Posts
    244
    tank is working great (knock on wood)

  22. #1162
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    tucson AZ
    Posts
    208

    spacer

    Quote Originally Posted by Carbon Blue
    when you say smallest spacer you do mean the largest carrier that will not leak correct.

    its the unmarked spacer or the 0 spacer

  23. #1163
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    15

    Question why is my gun messed up?

    i just got a RT ULE Custom off of airgun.com and i aired it up and it just leaked down the barrel, alot.i did get to put about 200 balls through it, but the next day it happened. is there anything i can do to fix the problem, besides sending it back?

  24. #1164
    Quote Originally Posted by i_am_the_enemy
    i just got a RT ULE Custom off of airgun.com and i aired it up and it just leaked down the barrel, alot.i did get to put about 200 balls through it, but the next day it happened. is there anything i can do to fix the problem, besides sending it back?
    go to the biggest carrier that will not leak, in your case keep going down carrier sizes till the leak stops

  25. #1165
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    15
    i have the smallest carrier in the and it still leaks, its not so much as a leak, but when i screw my tank it, all the air rushes out.

  26. #1166
    Quote Originally Posted by i_am_the_enemy
    i have the smallest carrier in the and it still leaks, its not so much as a leak, but when i screw my tank it, all the air rushes out.
    check the oring surrounding the carrier, make sure everything is well oiled. Try switching the outer oring from different carriers onto the current carrier that u are using

  27. #1167
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    15
    thanks, it works like a dream now!

  28. #1168
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Come all without, come all within, You'll not see nothing like the mighty Quinn
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    289
    I believe my level 10 kit came with a wrong spring. There is no spring that appears to have been cut. There is one long dark one the color of the level 7 spring, one long stainless spring, and one short copper spring the length of a level 7 spring. With the long stainless spring, I can't get enough velocity, and the short copper one the bolt still moves forward fairly fast. I think the dark one feels stronger than the stainless, but I haven't tried it. Correct me if I'm wrong but the stainless spring is the one that is usually cut. Should I cut one loop off of the end of it to get the same results?

    Thanks for your help!

  29. #1169
    ok, I looked through the rest of the posts real quick and didn't see anyone else with this problem. so, if it is here im sorry. anyways, I just got my x-valve and am really excited about it cause I am upgrading from your regular old classic air valve. I opened up my level 10 to tune it and tried to get all the pieces out...I can get the tip off with a cresent wrench...and the shims just drop out....but the carrier wont come out, it's stuck...is it just supposed to drop out? or do I have to fish it out with something? what should I do...any thoughts?

  30. #1170
    Quote Originally Posted by wargle_gargle
    ok, I looked through the rest of the posts real quick and didn't see anyone else with this problem. so, if it is here im sorry. anyways, I just got my x-valve and am really excited about it cause I am upgrading from your regular old classic air valve. I opened up my level 10 to tune it and tried to get all the pieces out...I can get the tip off with a cresent wrench...and the shims just drop out....but the carrier wont come out, it's stuck...is it just supposed to drop out? or do I have to fish it out with something? what should I do...any thoughts?
    use your field strip screw to get it out or use a dental pic. It stays wedged in there. Once you start using it the orings will break in and that problem should go away.

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