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Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #1171
    thanks man, I will be sure to try that and tell ya how it worked out.

  2. #1172
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Midwest
    Posts
    1

    Level 10 e-mag adj and brittle paint

    Different? I broke fragile paints, till I installed the spacer with one dot and three shims with the longest spring. I also put a big rechargable batter pack on the back of the warp feed so it spins like an 80cc dirtbike. It is very sensitive to velocity adjustment but the lvl 10 kicks in if a blade of grass is in the way. Best of all it doesnt break paint even when I hit 17bps with hellfire paint. Life is good.......

  3. #1173
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Chanhassen, MN, USA
    Posts
    765

    New X-Valve

    So, I just got a new X-Valve, well used. When I gas it up, it doesn't leak down the barrel and it seems to shoot fine... Do you think I should go up one carrier to see if it leaks, or just leave it alone? I have been getting a little bolt stick, especially when I do an RT Chrono. If I don't let the trigger reset after a shot, the bolt will stick.
    I went like this
    He went like this then like this then like this
    Now he shoots a Mag too...

    -JR

  4. #1174
    Syx80 Guest
    Do you have a level 10 bolt upgrade. If you don't have it yet you may want to get it. And maybe you should oil it, or maybe you should come down here and get fixed.

  5. #1175
    Quote Originally Posted by JRingold
    So, I just got a new X-Valve, well used. When I gas it up, it doesn't leak down the barrel and it seems to shoot fine... Do you think I should go up one carrier to see if it leaks, or just leave it alone? I have been getting a little bolt stick, especially when I do an RT Chrono. If I don't let the trigger reset after a shot, the bolt will stick.
    yup you are getting bolt stick. First try lubing your bolt stem with a good amount of oil. It is the bolt stem and the carrier oring which is causing the bolt to stick. If that doesnt work go up a carrier size and see how that works. and again make sure everything is well oiled.

  6. #1176
    well it isnt really a complaint but a question o.k. here it is does the lvl. 10 kit work with the pro-team micromag? thank you
    undefinedIF YOU RUN YOU'LL ONLY DIE TIRED

  7. #1177
    Quote Originally Posted by SuiCide6
    well it isnt really a complaint but a question o.k. here it is does the lvl. 10 kit work with the pro-team micromag? thank you
    it will work just fine

  8. #1178
    Thany Uoi Very Much You Just Sealed The Deal

  9. #1179
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    66
    OK on sunday i went to the field to play with my emag and see how my lvl 10 was workin and when i first shot it was at like 340 so i get it down as far as i can which is only like 286 for 1 shot i could only get it to work at like 293 to 303 this is to high and it was much to high for the field i was at being indoor i had to go down to 270 and i didnt know how i could. now for future reference i would like to know and also how can i lower the velo. but still have my mag shoot fine. also i have a brand new mag and lvl 10 i have the red spring in i think it is medium resistance and i have 3 shims in and i believe i have the 2.5 carrier in.Thx
    "Life Is A Garden Dig It" Joe Dirt
    Black powerfeed Emag 1.37 w/ warp and ev2
    lookin for emag ups u got em i want em

    98% of american teenagers have tried pot. if you are part of the 2% that hasnt, put this in your signature.
    My emag shootin with crap paint and old ev2

  10. #1180
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Chanhassen, MN, USA
    Posts
    765
    Quote Originally Posted by Carbon Blue
    yup you are getting bolt stick. First try lubing your bolt stem with a good amount of oil. It is the bolt stem and the carrier oring which is causing the bolt to stick. If that doesnt work go up a carrier size and see how that works. and again make sure everything is well oiled.
    I'm assuming that it's bolt stick, the sear and trigger won't reset. I sold my tank and just got a new one (not filled) so I haven't been able to determine which position the bolt is in when it happens. I will try the next largest carrier with the current o-ring and see if I have any issues... Thanks!

  11. #1181

    Question leaking & going full auto

    hey my gun is leaking down the barrel and when i shoot it goes full auto


    PLEASE HELP MY MARKER
    Last edited by amagrtpro; 01-20-2005 at 06:07 PM.

  12. #1182
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Santa Rosa, Ca
    Posts
    522
    first gas the marker up.. when it goes full auto, just hold the trigger... it should stop in about 5 or less seconds... then it should shoot normally, but might still leak... if it does still leak then go down a half carrier.... when you put things back together you might have to let your gun full auto for a sec to let everything "set in"/

    pace-
    kyro
    Uncle Bill Loves Paint Ball

  13. #1183
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Milpitas, CA
    Posts
    163
    okay I know you guys might get bored of answering questions... but i have one.

    today during ao day. Everything started off great. The lvl 10 was nicely tuned, no chuffing, no nothing.

    Middle of the day. the valve/bolt starts leaking. So I thought it would go away after a few shots.. doesn't. So I thought it was low on gas... wasn't that (even though fills were only going up to 2k). So then I thought, I had to regas it up. Still leaks.

    After that I decided to open it up and remove a shim. Still leaks. So then I went down a carrier size (notice I am at 1 groove and I dont have my .5 because someone else is using it, kinda small) leaks stop, bolt is strong though. So I put in a shim. For some reason I just wanted to hit the field and decided that the halo should keep up. 1 round later while waiting I hear a leak. Now this is a pretty small carrier right now. So I go down to the last size, no markings at all. Same thing happens, after 1 round I start to hear a small leak. So with the bad air and the frustration. I got a fill and decided that the o-ring just wasn't doing it. So I got a new one and started at 2 grooves 1 dot (2.5) no shims. Leaks. Go down to 2 grooves. Leaks. Then I go down to 1 groove 1 dot (1.5) leaks. Then I go down to 1 groove, no leaks. okay, seems fine. Hit the field 1 game I start to hear that pesky little leak. Now I think to myself. I shouldn't be using that small of a carrier. The end of the day nears and I decided to try it with another o-ring. Same results.

    If anyone can help me, please let me know. thanks.

  14. #1184
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    28
    hey could you guys explain to me all this stuff about shims and carriers?

    my gun wont shoot, when I pull the trigger, the gun just releases are for about a second

  15. #1185

    lvl 10

    i just found out my e-mag has a lvl 10 in it but i dont have a clue how to work on them..lol but this is the problem my balls still chop even though i have the lvl 10 in it is there somthing i should do like lube it or tune it or somthing that can stop it from chopping please tell me!!

    thanks AGD

  16. #1186
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,380
    RT M4G: If your mag still chops, then use a stiffer bolt spring. This will reduce the available force on the ball.

    10-brink: Increase the velocity setting until the gun fires consistently. If the velocity setting is too high when the gun fires properly, then you will need to use a smaller bolt spring and adjust the velocity down to a usable level.

    indulgence: Remove all shims from your powertube when troubleshooting leaks. They don't do much anyway. Now you can use the largest carrier that does not leak. It should fit the bolt stem snugly but not tight enough that it won't slide easily. If the bolt stem is snug (not tight) and it still leaks even after you change the o-ring, then check your sear tip for wear. If the sear tip is worn, you will need to replace the sear.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  17. #1187
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Forest Grove, Oregon
    Posts
    116

    Shims

    I was wondering what the level 10 shims do??? Like what can i expect from adding and/or take out shims?? I read meny posts but i havent been able to find anything.

  18. #1188
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,380
    There is potentially an area of travel where the bolt can move forward past the sear tip, stop on an obstruction, but not allow the bolt stem vent hole to be past the carrier o-ring. If this occurs the bolt will stick and not reset because the chamber pressure will hold the bolt against the obstruction. By adding shims, you push the carrier o-ring towards the back of the bolt stem and make that area shorter. Ideally, any forward movement of the bolt will expose the vent hole so that any obstruction will cause the chamber pressure to be released and the bolt spring will return the bolt to its starting postition. Realistically, most obstructions that stop the bolt allow enough forward movement to vent anyway, even without shims.

  19. #1189
    My level 10 gets stuck slightly forward sometimes. It will leak VERY slightly, when I shoot it will often return the bolt all the way. No problem in performance. More of an annoyance.

  20. #1190
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Weymouth, In the new England
    Posts
    1,468
    try puting oil in you asa befor you gas up.

  21. #1191
    Does it matter what kind of oil? Like oil I would use on my old spyder?

  22. #1192
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    West Coast
    Posts
    3,768
    as long as it's paintball oil and not rifle or motor oil you're fine. Something like PMI paintball oil or gold cup works well. Treat your gun like a car and change the oil every 3000 shots or less.

  23. #1193
    Ok, so I got my level 10 kit today. I started to put it together and started it out with the 1.5 carrier (1 groove, 1 dot). Well that one leaked like crazy. I shot it a few hundred times to wear in the o-ring. After that I brought it down a carrier size (1, 1 groove). Well that still leaked a tiny tiny tiny bit, so I put in the next smallest one (.5, 1 dot). Well that one did not leak, but I can't shoot the gun. The trigger will still stay loose. What is the problem?

  24. #1194

    More X-valve/ lvl10 probs

    Me and my buddy both bought the x-valve with he lvl10 upgrades. After installing the lvl10 on my Automag it worked perfectly. I tried to install it on my buddy's minimag and i cant even get the xvalve to work without the lvl10. all it does is leak down the barrel. Ive tried new o-rings everywhere in the power tube, ive tried the carriers, I just cant seem to find a combo that will make anything work. Any help would be greatly appreciated, You can email me at cr0bial@hotmail.com.

  25. #1195
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,380
    Crobial: Have you installed the new sear that came with the x-valve. The old sear may be worn, allowing the bolt to sit too far forward. This will cause leaking in both the level 10 and level 7 bolts. Make sure you remove all shims from the level 10 setup when it is installed. Use the shortest powertube spacer on the level 7 setup.


    jacobeid: You are getting bolt stick which means the carrier is too tight. Use the size 1 carrier. Remove all shims from the setup.

  26. #1196
    Aight so i just install the level 10 with the #1 carrier and no shimms?

  27. #1197
    need some help. when i hold back my trigger i can hear a leak in the bolt area. also my bolt sticks every dozen or so shots.

  28. #1198

    low velocity after lvl 10 install, back venting

    Hi,
    installed my lvl10 on my micromag and everything seems to be working ok except the velovity does not go past 240-250, any higher and it vents down the back, how can i increase the safety valve pressure? also the only spring that worked was the original spring and all the o rings whre to big, even on the smalles carrier, was lucky to get a oring from a friend from his normal mag spares, am here in south africa and getting stuff is impossible, any way to block the back valve?
    thx
    tom

  29. #1199
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,380
    If the vavle vents out the back, then you need a new regulator piston assembly.

  30. #1200
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    1,358
    Problem: Velocity is a little jumpy and MY LX is too hard on paintball. I will chop a ball every pod or so.

    Using
    -2shims with 1.0carrier and Short Spring At 250-265velocity.
    -Scepter Kit
    -Flatine 68/4500 at about 850psi
    -Xmag
    -Warp


    Help anyone?
    Modulate me
    Its oh so typical
    Excite me

    Don't focus on the obvious so much that you miss out on the little things...cuz those little things do matter. Wanna run fast? Hey, more power to you...but don't forget to be quick. Wanna shoot fast? Hey, great...but don't forget to be accurate. Wanna react fast? Super...then don't argue with yourself. In the meantime, have fun, play Paintball, and rock on!

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