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Thread: ** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

  1. #2251
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Dayton OH
    Posts
    425
    Quote Originally Posted by Billz804 View Post
    I have a Retro valve with the stock RT on/off.
    do you know what on/off pin length you're using? what trigger frame do you have?

    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    Also, check your trigger rod spacing..
    yeah, that's where i was thinking.

  2. #2252
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Richmond Virginia
    Posts
    241
    Thanks a lot for the insight. I'll run through those checks and see if I can pinpoint where my leak is.

    I'm running an AGD carbon fiber frame. Bushing is in place. I'm not certain what size pin I have as I don't have a pair of calipers.

  3. #2253
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Richmond Virginia
    Posts
    241
    Okay, when I pull the trigger I get a first shot, and then significant drop off after that. When I hold the trigger in after a shot, the bolt does not reset, and after about 3-4 seconds I can hear a hiss down the barrel. I have to manually reset the bolt to take another shot.

    So this seems to indicate a bad seal somewhere in the valve? I replaced the Reg Valve Pin Oring, but nothing changed. If the On/Off oring you're referring to is the one that sits on top of the On/Off, then I've replaced that one too.

    The space between my trigger and sear is minimal, but I can't screw the rod in any further.

  4. #2254
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Richmond Virginia
    Posts
    241
    I replaced the Reg Seat Oring, and pulled out the valve pin assembly, and cleaned off those orings. I wouldn't mind replacing them, but I dont really know what size they are, or if I have extras, and it doesn't sound like they're the culprit. I've added a fair amount of oil to everything, and I keep double checking my carrier, and I'm still using the best one.

    Still, the problem remains that I get one shot off before I can't fire another. The trigger has pressure against it, but won't actually fire; it feels like when I don't have my velocity high enough, except I'm pretty sure I do. If I hold the trigger in, it was quiet for 10 seconds, and then started slowly but surely to leak from the front.

    Is the issue with the trigger rod that it can be too far from the trigger, or too close? Mine is about 1/32 away from the back of the trigger when I hold it against the safety, and I can't screw it in any further. Maybe I need to try and take some off..?

    Thanks again for helping me troubleshoot.

  5. #2255
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,346
    Quote Originally Posted by Billz804 View Post
    Okay, when I pull the trigger I get a first shot, and then significant drop off after that. When I hold the trigger in after a shot, the bolt does not reset, and after about 3-4 seconds I can hear a hiss down the barrel. I have to manually reset the bolt to take another shot.

    So this seems to indicate a bad seal somewhere in the valve? I replaced the Reg Valve Pin Oring, but nothing changed. If the On/Off oring you're referring to is the one that sits on top of the On/Off, then I've replaced that one too.

    The space between my trigger and sear is minimal, but I can't screw the rod in any further.
    You should move this over to its own thread, since it is getting more involved and potentially falling outside the parameters of a simple level 10 problem.

    When you do hold the trigger in, do it for longer than 3 - 4 sec. Hold it in for a minute or two. Does the hiss persist, or does it eventually stop, or does it get worst? The easiest way to diagnose this is to air up without the bolt as I mentioned before. That way it totally eliminates the bolt and only evaluates the valve regulator and on-off.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  6. #2256
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,346
    Quote Originally Posted by Billz804 View Post
    Is the issue with the trigger rod that it can be too far from the trigger, or too close? Mine is about 1/32 away from the back of the trigger when I hold it against the safety, and I can't screw it in any further. Maybe I need to try and take some off..?
    As long as there is a gap, it should be fine. The gap means the on-off can open without the trigger impeding it.

    The fact that you can feel pressure on the trigger means the bolt is reset. Otherwise the sear would hit the bolt and there wouldn't be any force on the trigger rod to push against the trigger.

    What is the output pressure of your tank? Is it working properly so that you are getting the proper pressure?

  7. #2257
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Richmond Virginia
    Posts
    241
    Thank you again for all the help.

    After your last comment, it dawned on me that I'm using a new tank (I just traded my 50/45 for a 68/45). I opened her up today and, surely enough, all the shims have been removed. I'm probably getting an input pressure of about 550 PSI.

    I'm going to find out how to order some more shims from Ninja, and then get back at it.

    I appreciate all your effort!

  8. #2258
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,346
    Quote Originally Posted by Billz804 View Post
    After your last comment, it dawned on me that I'm using a new tank (I just traded my 50/45 for a 68/45). I opened her up today and, surely enough, all the shims have been removed. I'm probably getting an input pressure of about 550 PSI.
    If the tank output is low, it will cause your problems. Its a known issue with level 10 valves due to the orings not sealing properly when the operating pressure is near the input pressure. It needs the higher pressure differential to push the oring against the sealing surface.

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