Ok, here we go. First off, I have 2 3K flatline systems, 2 Retromags, and an Emag. All products were purchased used.
Here's the setups for each gun.
Older emag (sn in the 300's). Lvl 10 installed. everything else is stock, i believe. 3k flatline attached to it at about 800 psi output.
Longnose non-foamie bolt. Eclipse body kit (body rail, foregrip, ect. ) Trigger frame is a P3 frame (old school, not made anymore. it's non-45. . . very similar to the stock frame, but w/ a double trigger.)
3k flatline at about 850 output.
Regular hardnose bolt. ANS body rail. Z-grip. Uses same flatline as the other retromag ( i just switch them back and forth.)
Flatline #1: WHen i tried to put this tank on the emag, all was well till i started shooting. IMMEDIATE SEVERE drop-off. This was noted in all 3 firing modes. Aparrently if i shot anything over 11 or so shots per second, the flatline just starved the mess out of the Emag valve. Tank currently seems to be working fine on a friend of mine's classic valve mag.
Flatline #2: Seems to work ok on emag. can get a little bit of burps and farts but thats Most likely due to the fact that i had the wrong spring in the lvl 10 kit today.
seems to be causing some dropoff on the retrovalve guns. i think the reason no drop off was noticed on the emag w/ this one today was because i just couldnt get it going that fast (more on that below)
Emag: other than me having the wrong level 10 spring in, there a re a couple things giving me fits w/ this gun. First off, the trigger pin. While trying to learn how to adjust the trigger last week, i took the trigger out from the frame, (because i couldnt get the set screw for the magnets in the trigger to budge. It still wont move.) When i tried to but it back in, the trigger pin would not go in all the way. I did follow the instructions- - - pushed the pin out from the right hand side of the gun, and tried to put it back in from the left. The pin would go in until there was about 2 or 3 mm left sticking out from the left side, then it would go no further. i tried tapping it with a little punch, and of course the infamous small rubber mallet. inadvertantly, during this process i missed once with the hammer and shattered the fire selector switch. oops.
I ordered a new trigger pin from AGD and a new selector switch. tried the new pin today. same thing.
I wound up shaving off the end of the pin, just so i could operate the switch. Still not happy with this one. I want a fresh pin in there all the way.
Second, the stuck set screw in the trigger. (mentioned above)
Third, while i was charging my battery the other day, it became VERY hot. Very hot as in "i picked it up, cussed really loud and dropped it on the floorboard of the car"
It finally cooled off about 20 minutes later. Is this normal?
Fourth, about a week ago, while messing with the gun with the electronics on, i noticed the grip frame becoming very warm. seemed kinda odd to me. . . is this one normal?
fifth, the aparrent shoot down problems while in Any mode, and with either of my two tanks. may be a tank prob, may be a gun prob.
Was working O.K. However, even with turning up the input pressure to about 950 or so, i was not getting much at all in the reactivity department. I could shoot the gun no faster than i could when it had a classic valve in it.
SO, i started messing with it. Big oops.
first thing i did was put the shortest Power tube spacer in there i could find, .215. Then, i took out the on/ off pin and measured it with some calipers. - - it was about 0.749 . ( i figured the deviation from the alleged stock legnth of 0.750 could be due to miscalibrated calipers.)
I had an extra Retrovalve on/ off pin lying around, so i measured that one, too. Same legnth.
Then, i took one of the pins and quickly wacked off about 0.004. ('quickly' most likely being the problem here. . . )
I slapped her back together, and it was great. . . very light trigger pull, easy to sweetspot at about 850 input pressure. little bit of drop off was noticed. I figured it was the tank.
Well, i took it back apart and noticed that my job shortening the on off pin was pretty messy, and that the new surface where the pin contacted the back of the sear was kinda uneven. so i very slowly evened it out.
I put the gun back together, and now it feels like im squeezing a sponge for a trigger.
A slow pull on the trigger gets a leak from the barrel, and a nasty farting noise for a fire.
I put the 'stock legnth' on off pin back in and there's no difference.
No bolt stick, it just dosent want to fire hardly at all. Attempted rapid fire resulted in what sounded like 200 magic elves all burping in unison. it wasnt pretty.
I thought i had seen every conceivable problem with a mag. . today i think i invented a new one.
Havent really messed this one up yet, cause ive been sepnding too much time with the others.
However, even with the retrovalve in the gun, there is no reactivity to the trigger hardly at all, and it is very easy to short stroke the gun w/ the z-grip.
Here's what im thinking about doing about all of this.
I work in a paintball shop. I fix guns all the time. Heck, i fix mags all the time. However, im betting that, since all these products were gotten used, and for the cost of me having to order parts kits and toatally rebuild all of them, and THEN the cost of parts for me to resolve the tolorence problems with the retromags not being reactive, it would be a heck of alot cheaper to just box up all my poo and ship it up to AGD and have them take a look at it.
Thanks in advance,