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Thread: ALL about the WARP-FEED

  1. #481
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    Originally posted by barrel break
    sorry guys, didnt have time to read the whole thing, so i'll just ask this here.

    I have an '03 vert cocker and want a warp, do i absoloutley have to buy the PTP warp ($100 more) to run it on mine?
    thanks
    ]no, all thats really important is that u get teh cocker adapter
    Good Buyers: rhetor22

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  2. #482
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    Can a vert feed ULE body be used w/ a warp feed is there an adapter or do you just have to buy a ULE warp body?

  3. #483
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    i think you might be3 able to find an angel adapter

  4. #484
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    I know this was probably already covered somewhere in this thread but where can I get the 12 volt mod for the warp and about how much does it cost?

  5. #485
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    you can either rig it up yourself with parts from Radioshack or go through Pro Team Products(12.95 from them).
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  6. Question Tube Length

    Hey,

    What is the longest you can make a warp feed tube, and not get any slipping in the spinning disks or any less than 8 BPS. In 3.5 feet, the warp feed would have to push 60 paintballs. I'd imagine that it's maximum rate would go down. I'd put on a 12v mod on if necessary.

    I bet you are curious why - well I almost exclusively play large senario games, and hoppers just look bad on replica paintball guns. If all i had was this tube running down the gun and then attach it to a warp feed id have somewhere on my belt, I think it would look much better.


    Thanks for any info,

    -Mike

  7. #487
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    If I were to rig the 12 volt mod myself, could some schematics be provided and a list for what parts I would need.

  8. #488

    Length

    Mike,

    See our short discussion here:

    http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...hreadid=117898

  9. #489
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    Help!!

    Ok from me taking out the battery from my warpfeed so much. I ended up breaking the wire off the board. So I decided to put an on/off switch on my warpfeed and i hook up the intellifeed. Now I have some problems.

    When I first tested it worked fine, but the sensor was still on. So then I removed the one jumper and got it to stop. So I tested it again everything was fine. The intellilink works and the switch work. So then I go inside so we can start on my other warp.

    I went to look at mine to see something, but then I touched my warp i was hot at the battery compartment. So I took out the battery, which was hot as hell. I then looked over everything. All the wires where soldered to the right spots and there are no wires touching. (NOTE: It only gets hot when the switch is off)

    After all this is when I took the jumper out to stop the sensor. So after the sensor jumper was out. I put the battery back in and the battery was no longer getting hot. So I figured I was fix. So I went to try it again, but the battery was dead. So I put another one in and it warmed up again, but nothing like the first time. So I thought it was fixed again. Then about ten minutes later the second battery was dead.

    So today I tried it again. I put the battery in and it all works, but the battery started heating up again. SO I just took it out. I'm now lost and have no idea what the problem can be.

    Anyone have an idea?

  10. #490
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    Could someone try to explain to me how you break your warp in? Im very horrible with mechanical and electrical things and the directions that came with the warp I can't understand.

  11. #491
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    Re: Help!!

    Originally posted by PRPB
    Ok from me taking out the battery from my warpfeed so much. I ended up breaking the wire off the board. So I decided to put an on/off switch on my warpfeed and i hook up the intellifeed. Now I have some problems.

    When I first tested it worked fine, but the sensor was still on. So then I removed the one jumper and got it to stop. So I tested it again everything was fine. The intellilink works and the switch work. So then I go inside so we can start on my other warp.

    I went to look at mine to see something, but then I touched my warp i was hot at the battery compartment. So I took out the battery, which was hot as hell. I then looked over everything. All the wires where soldered to the right spots and there are no wires touching. (NOTE: It only gets hot when the switch is off)

    After all this is when I took the jumper out to stop the sensor. So after the sensor jumper was out. I put the battery back in and the battery was no longer getting hot. So I figured I was fix. So I went to try it again, but the battery was dead. So I put another one in and it warmed up again, but nothing like the first time. So I thought it was fixed again. Then about ten minutes later the second battery was dead.

    So today I tried it again. I put the battery in and it all works, but the battery started heating up again. SO I just took it out. I'm now lost and have no idea what the problem can be.

    Anyone have an idea?
    Anyone???

  12. #492
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    u ever think of calling agd? youll probably send it in

  13. #493
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    PRPB - try switching to heavy duty battery connectors

    PaintSkater00 - hook up a battery, press the white button until the battery dies, then your done.

  14. #494
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    woah! havoc is still alive! never coulda guessed that one

  15. #495
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    Still alive?

    Ha, I'm... Eternal...


















  16. #496
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    not with my empire timmy floatin around!

  17. #497

    Warp with egg question

    Hello everyone,

    I am sure this has been asked before but after over an hour of searching I have not been able to find the answer. I actually asked this question outside this thread and got very few replys so I thought I would try it here.

    I just ordered a warp feed for my ULE RT Pro. My hopper is an EGG. Several people have told me the Egg does not fit the warp right and that it will stick out in the back real far and hit my mask. I read one post that said you could turn the egg around backwards but that makes it harder to load. Someone told me I could mount the Warp backwards and that would solve the problem. Any thoughts on this?

    Any suggestions on the best way to put an EGG on a warp?

    Thanks,
    Bryan

  18. #498
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    Nov 2003
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    Indianapolis
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    I am not sure whether my question is somewhere in the previous 16 pages of this topic, but I am curious as to whether I would have to purchase anything other than the $90 warp feed to make it work?

    In the pictures there is just the actual warp feed, no hoses or fittings. Do I have to buy those seperately? If so, what all do I need to mount a warp on a PF HR minimag?

  19. #499
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    dont get that one. keep looking. u should be able to find complete warps for 90 or so.
    look for it to come with...
    warp
    mounting bracket
    the screwws for bracket to gun adn bracket to warp
    hose
    90* adapter
    hose fitting for the warp (black hard tube that hose goes into to connect to warp.

  20. #500
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    Originally posted by Havoc_online
    PRPB - try switching to heavy duty battery connectors

    PaintSkater00 - hook up a battery, press the white button until the battery dies, then your done.
    Ok I tried a different battery connector, but the battery still over heats when I turn the switch off. I have no idea what is wrong with it. this is what I have.


  21. #501
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    take off the black wires from the switch. They stay connected.

    move one red wire to where the black wires were.


  22. #502
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    Thanks!!

  23. #503
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    Feb 2004
    Location
    NY
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    I finally got my agd warp w/ 12 volt mod and on/off. I tinkered with it for about 2 hours last night cleaning and oiling it. When i tested it it worked when i pushed the white primer button but i couldnt get it to spin when i hit it. Do I need the sound of the gun to make it spin? Im pretty sure i have it set up for vihration(bottom one of the 3). Also when i put balls in and held the white button it would feed for a little while then would just stop. Are my balls to big for the warp? They are dbx practice paint. One more thing, what would I need to hook my warp up to my intelliframe? Thanks

  24. #504
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    to PRPB

    Might be too late but sounds like the switch is shorting the battery in the off position. Like ahvoc said prolly got some wires backwards.


    Official AO FlightLine Ninja

  25. #505
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    California
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    Hopper to warp

    I've had problems keeping my revy on my warp (the gf's too). My feedneck on the revy is smaller than the hole in the warp to the extent that I have had to wrap duct tape around the revy to keep it there. The problem with that is when paint gets on it, it gets slick and can get bumped out anyways (not to mention its ugly). My gf just got a ricochet which works much better, but i want to keep my revy.

    Any ideas on how to secure it to the warp? i was thinking a set screw or something, but i dont like making holes in the shell if i don't have to. Thanks

  26. #506
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    if ur up to it try and get some pvc to create a spacer

  27. #507
    Hi all. I got a BM2K with a warp feed on it and I keep chopping paint
    I once saw a digram as to were paintballs should sit in the feedneck saying if it looked like this you will chop paint and if it looks like this you wont. Does anyone know of this diagram as I think it could solve my problems.
    Please help...

  28. #508
    it's in this thread, near the front. page 2-5, I think.

  29. #509

    Warp promblems

    i stopped playin paintball for the winter and when i got my warp bak out it just didnt work so i put new batteries in and it still doenst work

  30. #510
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Hood River, OR
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    643

    Question

    Hmmm, so to mount an AGD Warp on my cocker, what would i need?

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