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Thread: ALL about the WARP-FEED

  1. #31
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    Oct 2002
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    Sanford, FL
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    243
    I recently ordered some Warp Feed hose from the AGD store to try some other setups, and I got the new thinner black hose, but I didn't get the O-rings that were supposed to friction fit them. Any chance I can get two of those sent to me, AGD?

  2. #32
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    how do you mount this on a gun? I've been thinking about getting one someday, but I want to know all the details. And will this make my gun really unbalanced?
    it comes with a one-piece mounting plate that allows you to mount the warp on the right or left side of the marker with plenty of angles to play with.

    DoubleDutch - PM me your address and I'll send ya some(OR you can take your hose with you to Home Depot and find some o'rings that fit)

  3. #33
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    May 2001
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    Richmond, Va, USA
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    warp hose doesn't come w/ the o-rings,but dude just go to Home Depot and just pick some up from the plumbing section, cuz AGD isn't doing anything until after World Cup.

    P.S. havoc is quite possibly the greatest guy on AO, well maybe second or third, there is tom and I

    Richmond

    Forest Green Unmilled Viking #475
    (black razor blade and black sticky3s)
    black 14in Powerlyte Scepter Kit
    Black Halo B
    88/45 Centerflag Hyperflow Stub

  4. #34
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    What kinda of motor drives the warp? What's the model number and rating?

  5. #35
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    Oct 2002
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    New Berlin, WI
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    im gettin a minimag and I wanna get a warp for it which powerfeed should I get for it, left or right?

  6. #36
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    well classic that depends on a few things

    if you are right handed you will want a hopper right powerfeed

    and if you are a lefty then hopper left

    its also preference

  7. #37
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    P.S. havoc is quite possibly the greatest guy on AO, well maybe second or third, there is tom and I
    lol he likes me! he really really likes me!

    What kinda of motor drives the warp? What's the model number and rating?
    It's a carbon brush motor. I'm not sure on it's model number but my guess on it's rating is 18v @24,000RPM(no load).

  8. #38
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    Oct 2002
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    New Berlin, WI
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    k, thx!

  9. #39
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    May 2001
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    Richmond, Va, USA
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    Havoc wouldn't it be a 12v motor b/c you can't run 18v's into it,(2 9v batteries, thats y you need the 12vregulater)

    just wondering

  10. #40
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    you need the 12v regulater for the board(which is actually rated for 18v but it's not stable) you can run 18v straight to the motor with no problems, but I'll tell you right now, your not going to sneak up on anyone with how loud the motor will spin.

  11. #41
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    You can bypass the board and run 18v right into the motor?

    If you bypassed the board and ran 18v directly to the motor (activated by an Intelliframe - roller switch setup), how many balls would it spit out with each trigger pull?

    Since each trigger pull is extremely brief in time, how many turns would the friction disc actually make with each pulse? Since the board is bypassed, I'm guessing the dwell time would be extremely short as well. Would it be enough to consistantly feed?

  12. #42
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    yes, you CAN bypass the board and go straight to the motor, BUT not with an Iframe hook-up(that needs to board to close the signal). It can only be done with a marker that sends a pulse(an Emarker) like the Emag.

    If you ran the 16.8 volts from the Emag battery straight to the warp motor, you'd get something in the low-mid thirties. This is obviously overkill. No hopper can come close to keeping up with that so it's worthless, the 12v mod is perfect cause the HALO B can feed just under the 12v's abilities. Also, not having the warp board means that you will have to run your Emag in Emode all the time and not only will your battery drain twice as fast but once it's dead and you switch to manuel mode, you won't be able to load because you will have taken out your vib. control. (did I mention you'll be able to hear the warp spin from other cities? THAT' HOW LOUD IT IS! lol j/k)

  13. #43
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    Also, can you explain in detail "how-to" lube the warp wheel? Do I have to take the warp apart?

  14. #44
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    I personally use the same oil I use on my marker
    cover my finger in oil
    take the bottom hose-warp adaptor off
    stick my finger in
    use the handy white button to turn the disks
    I repeat till both disks are nice and slippery all the way around

  15. #45
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    Drop test results...

    Although these results are subjective by nature, I believe that after 5 samples of data, a good idea of what is happening becomes predictable and fairly consistant (i.e. you get the picture of which is faster than the other).
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #46
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    BTW, "FRESH" and "BRAND SPANKING NEW" batteries makes a BIG DIFFERENCE in performance!

    But then again, you probably already knew that...
    Last edited by Jack & Coke; 10-19-2002 at 02:40 AM.

  17. #47
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    like the chart Jack

    How'd you time the test? If it was for more than a fraction of a second then the 12v warp will only feed as fast as the HALO because if your using good sized paint and lubed disks, the disks should slip past the balls(it's unnoticeable) while it's waiting for the HALO to catch up so it's only as fast as the HALO.

    leaving batteries in the warp will drain something like 4volts a month(slower with a bigger cell) so yes fresh batteries are key

  18. #48
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada
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    I just purchased a used Warp Feed. After I cleaned it and got it back together I hooked it up to my RT and was tunning it in when I noticed smoke coming from the board. I then really tried to remove as much paint as possible and tried it again. I still noticed the smoke. I then felt around and the top left... thingy ?(Q1) was realy hot. When the motor is running the... thingy ? cools off. I am using a 9V batterie.
    Is the board on the edge of burning out or just Q1? Is this normal? Could I glue a small heat sink onto Q1?

    I do not have a Iframe, what do I need to do, to hook up a micro switch to activat the Warp Feed?

  19. #49
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    Yes it is on the edge of burning out. It's not normal and no you can't use heatsinks.

    I then really tried to remove as much paint as possible and tried it again.
    paintballs in the warp?

    was smoke coming from Q1 itself or it's solder connections? does it look like there was any resoldering? Is the solder touching and closing a connection between two independent pins?

    I do not have a Iframe, what do I need to do, to hook up a micro switch to activat the Warp Feed?
    even if you did, you would still have this little problem of yours.

  20. #50
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    Feb 2002
    Location
    Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada
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    All connections are looking good. I will be using the warp feed in a few days and then will look into grtting a new board.

    The warp feed works fine on "sens" on my RT but I would still like to hook the warp feed up to a micro swith in the trigger frame.

    I will be changing frames in the future, hopefully to a Iframe/Z-grip or one of the two.

  21. #51
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada
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    When the previous owner had it, a paintball hit the warp feed where the button is and sprayed paint up inside. the smoke is comming from ither the remaining paint under Q1 or Q1 itself.

  22. #52
    which way does the 90 degree adapter go on, I'm trying to set mine up to use on an angel tomarrow yet am cluless and can't get this to go. If somebody could post a pic or explain to me how I get the 90 adapter to work. Thanks
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  23. #53
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    Aug 2002
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    Milwaukee, Wisconsin
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    I got a new warp two days ago, and after using it all day on Sunday, I noticed that the friction disks aren't quite straight anymore - the bottom one seems to be a little bit warped - not hugely noticable, but you can see it's not straight anymore. Is this normal?
    Superbolt

  24. #54
    Join Date
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    Washington... AKA 'Cocker Country... Come get Some!
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    Shirow, that's pretty normal. I haven't noticed a big change in my friction discs, however I've been shooting pretty small paint as of late.

    If they REALLY start to get bent outwards, to the point where they don't grip the paint anymore, just flip them inside out.

    My Trading Feedback

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  25. #55
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    Yeah, it's not even bent outwards, just warped a little, flipping it wouldn't change them.

    Thanks

  26. #56
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    May 2002
    Location
    Austin, Texas
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    477
    could you dye the shells with rit dye?? lmk.
    -sebastian

  27. #57

    12v mod

    i hook up the 12v mod to my warp and plugged in the regulator and batteries

    all connections are good but the warp continues to spin and spin and spin then when i take the batteries off it stops

    any ideas

    what do you think

    thanks will

  28. #58
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    Redondo Beach, California
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    This is known as the "run-in" period...

    Please read the instructions that came with the warp. TK explains it there.

    If you don't have the instructions, go here: http://www.airgun.com/downloads/WarpInstructions.pdf

    Read the section titled "Run In"

    Good luck!

  29. #59
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    Feb 2002
    Location
    Texas
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    CNC9D
    if the board hasnt completely fried by now, you need to get all of the paint out of the board and see if that does the trick. If it does or has fried, the easiest thing to do would be to buy a new board.

    Shirow
    as long as it's loading you should be fine.

    SI|ENT|3O|3
    yeap, same as you would a revy. Dont worry about the sensor, it wont ruin. Just make sure it's dry before trying to use it again.

    JodoCast
    on some warps, the 12v mod needs a capacitor(100uf) to get rid of the "noise" that gets through the regulator, that should do the trick.

  30. #60

    where to get the capacitor(100uf)

    where do i get it??

    and how do i hook it up

    any help would be good

    should i let it run and see if works in

    or not
    any info would be great

    thanks


    will

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