Any problems with the Warp and Advantage shelled paint?
Any problems with the Warp and Advantage shelled paint?
It seems with my warpfeed that the top right screw (plastic box fascing away) seems to have an effect on my senstivity. i took my warp apart to try to fix the senstivity, and i lost the nut on that side. and it was really senstive. i found teh nut today anre replaced it, and it seems less senstive, i shot it w/o nut and it was perfect, i have NOT shot it w/ the nut to c a actual change. do u think i'll have a preformance diffrance? and is this normal?
unless of course i'm totally wrong than forget everything i said
I just got mine, and haven't had a chance to put any paint through it.Originally posted by Havoc_online
Do you have problems or are you asking if anyone else has had problems? I have never had problems with any different types of paint in a warp.
I read that in another post somewhere, about warp and advantage shell paint. RP is all I shoot, so I was wondering if it was a common thing but I guess not.
I found out that the used Warp I bought was modded for 2 9vs in parallel for a bigger cell. So I am changing it to the 12v mod.
I have been reading old posts about the 12v mod, and how sometimes it is necessary to use a capacitor to "filter out noise" and "keep it from constantly spinning."
Will I need to add a capacitor to this setup, or only if I run into problems? If so, what capacitor(s) will I need? (I read that you need 2 caps, and also read that you can use just 1 on the output of the 12 regulator)
Also, will using a capacitor keep a "pool" of regulated juice to draw from? (more power for bursts)
I will be running this using Intelliframe on my Racegun.
I've never found the problem where the warp wont stop spinning but it happens to some ppl(you could use a 100uf cap). I did however measure the output on one set-up I did(with no cap) and it was about 16v, the warp worked fine(awesome actually) .Personally, I wouldnt install one unless I got a picky warp.
BTW...for those interested in a 12v mod and are too lazy to do it themselves, (like ME!) the PTP 12v that is linked at the top of the thread works very well and is well put together. Last time I checked they were on sale for about $12! It cost me $16 w/ shipping. For a guy who does not have a lot of free time, it was well worth it!
The gun is 1/8" of a game that is a FOOT long!
(...but a 'mag helps)
I know I was born and I know that I'll die...the in between is mine. -Eddie Vedder
In my situation, my paintballs are just like the "wrong" diagram.
How do I solve this?
make sure your plug(parabolic) is in the correct position and your hose is not being pinched.
Hey Havoc, is there any real advantage to getting the pro team products warp kit over the AGD for my minimag??? What does the ptp one have that the AGD one doesn't? I went on their site but didn't really get much info out of it.
I'd pick the AGD one anyday. The PTP is basically a different mounting system that offers a different angle but also has the vib sensor on the mount(I've personally seen a lot of problems with the sensor on the outside.)
Thanks Havoc, I'll remember that.
Inside the 90 adapter?
Right now the feed tube makes almost a 90 degree turn just to enter the adapter.
Could the problem be there?
What could happen if the stack is wrong?
do you have a pic of your set-up?
But I will try to take one
I havent worked with any Hyperframes so I couldnt tell you from experince, however I searched and came up with these two threads.
Thanks Havoc. This sounds complicated...I was reading the thread about somebody linking their Hyper, Revvy, and Warp all so kick on when shooting and it started making my head spin. Maybe I didn't read that close enough but it sounds like some complex BS to me. So, saying I can't actually link it where the Revvy and Warp start up when I pull the trigger on the Hyperframe, what's the next best thing? I understand the Warp has a sensor that tells it to start going when the gun vibrates, but what do you set it to with the LX? The LX gets rid of a lot of recoil, so doesn't that mean you need a more sensitive setting? Also, linking your Revvy and Warp is fairly easy isn't it?
The warp has different sensitivity settings, As long as your springs are making good contact and your warp is nice and secure(to transfer vibs better) you should be fine. I ran vib. mode on my LX RT for a long time with no problems. Yes you can link the warp and revy, many ppl have done it.
I'm having some problems with my warp. I have done the 12 volt mod with parts from radio shack. I run the warp with a micro switch I mounted in the 45 frame of my micromag.It worked fine for a while but now will not stop spinning when you plug batteries into it. the sensativity adjustment slows it down some but doesn't stop it. unplugging the microswitch does nothing.
As a side note my warp doesn't have any springs in it. could that cause this. Mine was one of the first ones made. It never had the springs. Where do they go and what do they do?
Thanks for any help.
Micromag rt, 68 ci flatline,12"ss total freak ,warpdrive, 12volt revi.homemade intelliframe.
The springs I meant were the vib. sensor/board contact springs, they only matter if your using the vib. sensor. I see that your warp doesnt spin but I didnt understand your post, are you running it intelli(with a rollerswitch not microswitch) or vib? If your sure your board jumper settings are right double check your wiring(if it's intellifed) to make sure nothings closing the circuit. If it's ok, your 12mod may be letting too much voltage through.
Kory sounds like the batteries in your 12v mod are creating some noise. I found that the Duracell Ultras tend to do that. But a capacitor will filter that out.
99 LED Angel,
Automag RT Pro; Level 10
I'm using the same switch that the agd tech article says to use.(intelifeed) I got it from radio shack and it has a bearing on the end of it.
I will try differant batteries I am using duracell ultralights. If it needs a 100uf filter where is it soldered in?
Thanks for the help
hey i am having a lot of problems and i know nothing about warps. i just got this warp used today, and i put it on my gun, to see of course if it would work. The thing is that i have to push that white button to get my warp to turn the balls to go into my gun. everytime i hit the button, the balls will move, but with the revy on and my gun shooting the warp won't turn at all? it might be my ignorance, but any reply is thankful.
Master of Mags
the cap goes on the output of the reg.
brunno, read the first page of this thread and check your board jumper settings.
If you want a little different jack option for the phone plug, look in Radio Shack's gold plated bin for a 3/32 90* mono (not stereo) phone plug. Part number is 274-243. Sure it's gold plated, solder only and $1.99 for one (instead of 2 for $1.99), but you don't have the plug sticking downwards off of the Warp. If you've used the straight plug, you know what possible issues can result.
Also, spend the extra $1.99 and buy a bag of shrink wrap tubing. Feed the wires in and warm the tube w/ a hair dryer. Makes the install look much cleaner and the wires are protected a bit more.
Now if I could only get the Rico to mount to the Warp without falling out!
edit: Added part number and specified mono jack, not stereo.
Last edited by CMDane; 12-24-2002 at 01:22 AM.
I have found that with some of the warps that are experiencing problems and needed a capacitor added, that the cause may be the 12v regulator instead. I had this problem, and had some od readings on a meter, so i tried the same wiring harness with a differnet regulator, and it worked perfect. And to make sure that was the problem and not a connection issue, I switched back to the "odd" regulator, and I had the problem again. Just a heads up, You may be able to just swap it out for a differnt regulator. It is nice to not have to use the capacitors if yo uare installing a switch and LED for limited space reasons.
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anybody accidentally snap the battery snaps off the board? my soldering sucks