try replacing your board contact springs.
Cool, if I get it, I'll do that.Originally posted by Havoc_online
WARPED1 case by case - could be a number of things, you could send it to me for repair if anythings wrong with it.
SkElL~ObIsSiS yes, make sure you have fresh batteries as JT said, also lube your friction disks and check your dwell time(should be 1/4 turn)
Got mine back.
Thanks for the quick turn around! I'll let you know how it works next weekend!
Looks great though!
I've swapped them out with a friends springs, without change...Originally posted by Havoc_online
try replacing your board contact springs.
Do you know if there is a postive or negative trigger for the ebalde? I am getting a warp and would like to run it off of the trigger instead of the recoil. I have heard the sensor is tricky to set on Autocockers. Is this true?
Well, I bought a used warp/revvy combo. it was advertised as having 12v mod and added a extra connector, so you can run the revvy off of the same switch. (the revvy was nothing more than servo motor and casing)
Well, whoever put it together was an idiot and did not know how to solder, etc. It did not work when I got it. I basically unhooked everything and resoldered/heatshrink wrapped everything and replace the reg with brand new 7812C voltage reg. (It had 7812a, but lead broke on it when I took it off) After rewire, I first turn it on, it will turn on continuously, but when I turn the sensitivity down, it was working fine.(bit marginal, but usable)
Now, I hooked up the revvy to the warp, and once warp starts on, it would not stop stop. When I minimize the sensitivity, it almost works until it turns on again. I added .1uf cap to the output(I actually soldered the .1uf cap across the vcc/gnd of the warp control board). This fix the problem. .1uf is recommended for transient voltage conditioning of regulator output.(also recommended in the datasheet)
So, I have a warp that also runs the revvy. It works really well. probably eat through battery though, so I will probably use NiMH rechargeable.
hope this help others, who is thinking of doing the same mod.
Last edited by askman; 04-10-2003 at 12:23 AM.
How do I attach this thing? I got the plate and 2 screws, do I need two more? I wanna put the plate inbetween my KAPP drop and grip. The screws that came with it are not long enough.
Need Shocker Info? REAL shocker Info?
Tato's a sig nazi!
yeah its fine/ u only need the 2 screws for the bottom of the grip, which u have. to attach, put the plate inbetween the drop and your grip, with the plate angles towards the front of the gun. then screw in everything, the plate and the drop.also for custom adjusting you can losen the screws a little and teh plate can be slid a little foward and back in angle. then after that take the two small screws for the top of the warp that came with it, align the slots for the screw on the warp with the holes in the plate, then put the screws through the top side of the plate and tighten them into the warp. by losening them a little the warps angle can also be adjusted. also make sure you know how to adjust sensitivity unless you are using intellifeed. HAVE FUN with your new warp!
also if u would like instructional pics just ask and ill wip something together 4 u
Good Buyers: rhetor22
"AHHH Yet another "long" time cocker user wakes up, and comes to his senses. What can I say, Welcome to the intelligent side of paintball." - Creative Mayhem
E-Mag with lx for sale!!!!! HERE!!
I gotta run to Home Depot to get new screws. thanks guy!
ok. if they are the ones that connect the warp to the bar make sure there not longer than about 1/2 inch
I need screws to mount my plate to the bl/grip of my emag.
so wait now, which screws do u have, and what dou need?
I have the 2 ones for the top part, attatching the plate thingy, I need two bottomline screws to put my KAPP df and the other end of the warp plate thingy.
ok, first of all, u only need 4 screw total. two which will double for your plate and drop foward, and teh other 2 to attach the warp to teh plate.
oh nvm ok. get the bottomline screws and u set. btw what gun u runnign on?
My emag, I'll post pics once I get two more screws.
dont you have any extras of these from previous guns? lol you should find out from someone how to setup teh intellifeed on the emag for ur warp. and intellifeed warp is a diamond in the ruff
No extra screws laying around. I have the warp to emag wire, and the roller-switch thing intellifeed wire if I go warp on my PTP Micro. Punkerx1 hooked me up!
I have a Reloader, so I see no reason to wire it, the sound of the warp spinning and the gun firing will keep that puppy spinning!
I plug in my wire from the emag board to my warp and it just spins continuously. Why? I thought it spun with every pull of the trigger.
*EDIT* GRRRRRRRRRRRR, Now the black wire popped out of the battery thing, where the 9v goes. Havoc WILL be hearing from me soon.
Last edited by WARPED1; 04-16-2003 at 02:36 AM.
OK, so I just got a used warped Retro Mag with LX and an Inteliframe. (I'm really stoked!) It came with the I-Frame wired to the 12v revy that sits on top of the Warp. Is that good or do I want the I-Frame going to the Warp itself? I'm fairly new to Mags so I really appreciate any help guys. Thanks.
havoc will need to elaborate on this since i dont know if its possible, but if it is, maybey you should try to also hook up another wire so that the rev and teh warp are intelli. if that s not possible, then you should take the intelli off teh rev and make a intellifeed wire for the warp. its a lot harder to get a vibe sensor on a warp to work well than it is to get a 12v rev to work on its own
Ok, I figured out one of the reasons my mag has become sir-chops-alot... the warp on it doesnt spin enough when the vibration sensor is activated...
When I don't touch the warp, I get 3-4 shots off then break a ball... so what I was doing today was before firing long strings, I would just hold the white button until I stopped shooting, and I know that isn't good for it, but hey, I didn't get chops ...
So what do I have to get this puppy humming?
Hey Zero, how much did that Chipley cost ya?
Originally said by Boggerman When I got married I thought it would go down too... The insurance, not the wife.
well first, youve got a mag, and i used to have one too, before you spend any more money, go and buy yourself a lvl 10 bolt. it is the greatest thing ever to come to AGD since the emag. it is the most important/ greatest upgrade available for a mag. so before anything make sure you get one of those. then you can send your warp to havoc and have him hook u up with a on/ off switch and either the bigcell mod or the 12v mod. oh yeah, and after lvl 10, save up for an intelliframe, why? because a warp with intellifeed never fails you.
Ok, done, done and done....well first, youve got a mag, and i used to have one too, before you spend any more money, go and buy yourself a lvl 10 bolt. it is the greatest thing ever to come to AGD since the emag. it is the most important/ greatest upgrade available for a mag. so before anything make sure you get one of those. then you can send your warp to havoc and have him hook u up with a on/ off switch and either the bigcell mod or the 12v mod. oh yeah, and after lvl 10, save up for an intelliframe, why? because a warp with intellifeed never fails you.
Havoc already installed a bigcell and on/off switch... I'm saving up for level 10... I just didn't send him the gun with the warp for the fine tuning... and playing today, and noticed why it was chopping for the first time.
Adjusting the dwell isn't explained in the manual, so I figured might as well hear it from the pros before I go about screwing it up even more then it is now
I'm happy with my current frame... in isn't intellifeed, but the Auto-response trigger will work well enough.
at least get the lvl 10 and u will be happy. also how pleased are you with havocs work? im gonna send him my warp soon, lol havoc. but moneys a lil tight with stuff so when i get it to him i get it there
Ok, so the solution of my problem is in the manual, just must have glossed over it! Got it all fixed, no problem.
Oh, and Havoc is a GREAT guy! He even tossed in a few detents, stickers, and a spare PF plug! the work itself was very neat, and I really liked the new battery clips he installed... alot tougher then the cheapo vinyl ones there.
Any insight to whether to link the I-Frame to the 1)warp, 2) revy, or 3) both?
if there was a goodd way to, id think both. but then again all this time ive been using my timmy with just the warp intellifed and only have small probs sometimes if i try and shoot very long strings
instead of big cell, go with 12v, if you are chopping. I set it up to run my revvy and warp from same 12v (Iknow it eats batteries) so that revvy and warp runs together, and I can intelli it as well, if I want it. (don't need it so far) nice and clean setup. I like it. fast loading. fast as you can shoot. seems to keep up at 12-14 bps continuously for a while until hopper gets low without problem. (I can't shoot faster than that )
I use a Reloader. Is there really a need to wire the loader? I run the warp to emag wire from the grip thingy.
Havoc, I installed a PTP 12v harness with an on/off switch. I think maybe I've got the toggle switch wired in wrong cuz my batteries are draining down when it's not in use with the switch in the off position. Do you have a wiring diagram for this set-up? Also, I'm not sure what happened, but with a fresh set of batteries my warp ran for a few seconds then slowed down and one of the batteries was freakin' hot! I un-hooked the battery harness right away and then tried it again later on in the day with no trouble? I'm wondering if I messed up and got my wiring harness backwards...as in long connector to one 9v and the other two short ones to the other battery and warp connection...does this make sense? uggh