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Thread: ALL about the WARP-FEED

  1. #301
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    bay area, CA
    Posts
    2,473
    Originally posted by JT2002


    hey cmon yuji no need to be getting at him. he's new to AO. here bro go to warp manual make sure u have acrobat reader. read through the manual well and u will understand ur warp better. best of luck with it. if u need any more help, just come and post back here, im sure me, havoc, or anyone else are willing to help
    thanks for your help! and yuji's sorry im still a newbie to mags and the forum


    I do know the AO sig rules, I just want a free sig pic, that's all!

    My Gun CollectionhAppy's Official B/S/T thread - Feedback

  2. #302
    np, have fun!

  3. #303
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    15
    I was being nice...funny how a little emoticon can say soo much.

  4. #304
    ok. well . lol. ok anways, bak on track...
    havoc did a great job with my warp. i love the on/off

  5. #305
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    bay area, CA
    Posts
    2,473
    my warp is acting wack again!

    when i put in the battery the wheel starts to spin FOREVER!
    and it doesnt stop!
    MAKE IT STOP!!
    whats wrong w/ it?

  6. #306
    try turning down the little blue sensitivity knob inside your warp next to the board

  7. #307
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Reno NV
    Posts
    232
    Are there any know problems that would arise from triming the hose side of the 90* adapter dow to make a more straight path for the hose?

  8. #308
    i dont think so


    should be fine

  9. #309
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Wareham, mASS
    Posts
    310
    If anyone is looking for a drop in 12v mod w/ on/off switch I have a bunch of them premade.

    Good Traders=HobbesTZ, Willy-T, Litestab, Impostal22 Lopxtc, Rapidshooter, Mer, Sharpshooter1286, Automagking182, PBCustom98, SIGSays, Tjussery

  10. #310
    i'm new to tournaments and i'm lookin into getting a warpfed but will 1 hook up to a right standard feed?

  11. #311
    it will, i used to have mine like that, you can either turn the 90* feed thing to the back of the gun and wrap the hose that way, or turn the 90* to the front, and wrap the hose under teh barrel and into thw warp. but try to save and get a warp body, its that much better

  12. #312
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    NCC 1701 Command Bridge
    Posts
    778
    Heres some pitctures of the Warp I just got and put on my Spyder. I also added some technical details since there doesnt seem to be whole lot of content. (Except this thread.)









    1 Warped Spyder
    All your farm animals are belong to us.

  13. #313
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    NCC 1701 Command Bridge
    Posts
    778
    I had a larger picture of the board.

    So I added it.

  14. #314
    well , most people dont shoot fast enough to really take advantage of a higher voltage, and the hight voltage also makes teh warp more noisy while it runs. what i say it try this, havoc did the mod for me, but it is really very simple. the mod consists of installing an on/off switch which i think is a necessary upgrade because it saves ware on the battery snap wires. i pulled mine out 2 time with the stock setup. the mod also does something havoc ore some1 has dubbed "bigcell" basically 2 9v batts are wired in parallel (i think, i always mix up series and parallel) anyways, what this does for teh warp is it raises i think, amperage but not voltage i think. so what this higher amperage does is keep the voltage going to the warp at 9v, but since the amperage is higher, the warp never suffers from a lowering amperage which, in a stock warp, you could hear and see how after the warp runs for a few secs, its speed slows down a bit. but since theres double the amperage than before, the warp will not slow down for a while which is good becasuse it keeps it up to speed. so thats the ideal setup, on/off mod and bigcell. god its writing lab class all over again!

  15. #315
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    NCC 1701 Command Bridge
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    778
    Well if thats all true, then there doesnt need to be a battery on the second connector. It can just hang empty.

    Obviously if the second connector was left loose, to connect with some thing metal it would short out. Ive seen plastic covers that go on the ends of betteries could be put over the extra connector, a piece of heat shrink tubing or a piece of tape.

    Ill have to keep my eyes out for those plastic 9 volt battery covers. They go on the end when not in use. I say just put that on the end of battery clip #2 when not in use.

  16. #316
    why not just use both batts?

  17. #317
    Hey all. Ive got an ebladed cocker and i found that the cable that connects the new 3 way and the board only has a + voltage when the trigger is pulled (aprox 1-3v). Anyway i figured i can probly set my warp feed up so that it spins when it recieves this + voltage. Only thing is it wont work, i even tried using a batery to see if it would detect that. I Currently have the jumper set to the centre one (positive) only.

  18. #318
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    NCC 1701 Command Bridge
    Posts
    778
    I swear Tom does not like Autockers.

    Should he try the - setting?

  19. #319
    well first thing, are you saying you only have one wire coming from teh cocker to the warp? and only one connection? i think you might need there to be 2 connections, in order to complete teh circuit, and i think the prob is that you will need to find some wire or something with a negative lead to try it on. in other words i mean something like, go to radio shack if u dont ahve it, and get a wire that hase 1 end or w/e of teh plug to fit in the warp. then take each of the 2 wires, figure out which is pos and neg, and then they need to be wired to the cocker. i think it can be done but wont be easy

  20. #320
    Its 2 wires, i already tested for which is neg and pos. Heres a pic:

  21. #321
    now you are connecting this intellifeed to your warp via a mini jack plug correct?

  22. #322
    well for the moment its not in a jack plug but it shouldnt matter as all the jack plug does it create a plug that bridges the circuit

  23. #323
    ok, well i just thought it would be easier to work with if its in the jack so all u do is plug it in and see. have u used a voltmeter to make sure that all the wires coming from the cocker are the correct ones and supplying enough current to signal the warp?

    btw anyone know teh needed current for the warp to sense the signal? try calling agd i guess

  24. #324
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    fort wayne indiana
    Posts
    94

    Talking Alright a question for you then =)

    I am interested in getting a warp because i want to lower my profile. Some times those pesky front players chase me out of my back stand up and i need to hide
    what i need to know is as follows.
    1) does anyone make a larger bottom plate for the warp?
    it will not fit with out me moving my tank to the side.
    2) how can i make it feed 20+bps?
    is that the 12vmod? Noise is not realy a problem, i am a loud mouth and every one knows where i am anyway.
    3) is there an adapter for vert feed NON removable feed neck markers?
    thank you
    brandon
    Proud owner of a 98 Eclipse cocker with Eblade, and soon to be warped!
    If you get bored AIM ME!
    zabbux

  25. #325
    1) no that i know of, you sure it cant fit if u take the plate, slide it back and out to its farthest point AND move the warp out to its farthest point?
    2) i believe it already feeds 20bps or close to it just as 9v. what i do HIGHLY suggest is to put in an on/off switch, and do bigcell mod, basically just wire 2 good heavy duty bat clips in there in parallel to increas mah i think it is and keep voltage the same. the increased mah will be more than enough so that as the warp spins for several seconds, it maintains its speed rather than slows down because of the lower mah one 9v batt gives.
    3) i dont think there is any company made one. what gun u using? also how big is your tank? and im sure you can make a nice looking one out of pvc, and spray paint it to match the gun or sometin. basically just get a size tube that fits in teh feed neck, but is wide open enought for the balls to flow through freely.

  26. #326
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    fort wayne indiana
    Posts
    94

    Tank size

    its an 88/45 stubby and NO it wont fit =)
    heck it wont fit with my 68 3k
    i have tried and tried, all that happens is i get frustrated. if i owned a drill press or a welding machine i would try to build one, but i dont.
    Warp 9v only feeds approx 16 tops. i know this because i have checked with 3 of them, and fed them all off of halob's
    unfortunately i can hit approx 20 give or take some adrenaline<sp>
    i shoot a viking, and i dont realy feel like ghetto'ing one together. and i am sure as heck not cutting my feed neck apart.
    thank you
    brandon

  27. #327
    ok i never said to cut up the neck. im sure u can make one that serves teh purpose enough so that the plastic doesnt really get out in the open, and it just gets covered up by 1 the feed neck and 2 the warp adapter. now are u sure ur puttin the plate on with teh smaller slots attached to the fame and the longer ones for teh warp? and that when lookin from behind the gun, the plate is pointing foward? whats your setup? u running a drop foward? or just something like a unimount or asa? i run a 68 45 with drop and it does fit just a tad tight , but it fits. can u post a pic of the gun from front, back, and sides?


    shoot and i just thought, 88, im sure its freakin wide. um. how is the tank setup? so i can help figure something out

  28. #328
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    fort wayne indiana
    Posts
    94

    hehe

    hehe i know you did not say cut the feed neck, i have had that suggested to me b4 and i was just clearing the air in advance.
    i dont own a digi cam, so no i cannot post pics.
    its running on a KAPP 180* swivel drop.
    yes the warp is put together correctly
    i am currently at school and dont have internet at home so i cannot describe what it looks like.
    i am quite sure that security would frown on my bringing in my viking
    thank you JT for your help and speedy responses.
    brandon

  29. #329
    what do u mean a 180* swivel drop, u mean a drop zone 2 or 3 or somethin? i dont think thers such a kapp drop called
    swivel drop

  30. #330
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    NCC 1701 Command Bridge
    Posts
    778
    If you want 20 BPS sustained you need to put a Halo on top of your warp feed. Halo B is the one that everyone says is faster. Its belt driven.

    My warp is pretty quite. It makes a humming sound.

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