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Thread: ALL about the WARP-FEED

  1. #451
    did u try replacing the battery? also did you try a new oring for the drive? also that led coudl be sucking some big power out of ur 9v. are u electric savvy at all? can u do solder work? lmk

  2. #452
    i have heard that sometimes with the warpfeed, there can be a pause in you shots where itl just dry fire due to the fact that your hopper may jam or some other reason. when you intellifeed the warp feed does it fix this problem?

  3. #453
    a warp on any gun imo should be intellifed. but, will intellifeed warp fix a jammed hopper, no. but thats what 12v revvys and halos are for

  4. #454
    Well the situation is that i just got my tank and df in, i put um on along with the mounting plate for my warp, the warp itself with not fit the mounting when facing the mount plate the usual way do to the gauges on my 68/45 dynaflow. I was going to try to turn the plate upside down and rotate it 180* (if you can try to picture that) so that it would be basicly the same but the piviting part would be directly under the grip....I ran into a problem, the tank will not come off of the df, its a cp flame and ive tried as hard as i could to get it off, Ive tried to use a rubber mallet cautiously for fear of hurting my baby, no dice. I would try to put some gun oil to possibly give it a little lube, but i have none. if you can help, please let me know. I can take pics if it will help.

  5. #455
    you have to loosen the set screw in the drop in order to be able to take teh tank off the rail. look towards the forward of the drop, on the top side of it, and look for a hole with an allen screw in it, unscrew that and try to take it off

  6. #456
    Unfortunally I did that already, it wouldnt move even after that. I have pics, but there were some errors when I was trying to attach them. If anyone has a website they can post um at for a coupple days, it would be most appricated. Hit me up on aim at PNTBALL104.

  7. #457
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    New York
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    184
    what is the "big cell"? And does the 12v conversion make a big diff?
    gun 4 sale
    screw SP
    i want your emag

  8. #458
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Tejas, American Union
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    Big cell lets you run the warp at the standard 9v but using two batteries instead of one. Running 12v increases the speed of the warp, I believe it is about 8 BPS higher than 9v.

    AGD X-Mag #XT00187
    AGD Tac-One
    WGP 2003
    Marker Pics

  9. #459
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    New York
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    Ok thank you , but I have another question I put a on/off switch on my warp but it was not really working what i mean is that the warp would run slower. Its probaly not the right switch im supose to use well i need to get the right switch, could i use a switch off a remote control car or somthing similar to that?

  10. #460
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    I have no idea on the switch type, I am 0% clueless when it comes to electrical work. I had BradAGD install a on/off switch for me, and the big cell too. I have a PTP 12v wire for the warp also, not sure if I can run both of those together....???

  11. #461
    talk to havoc, he does all this stuff

  12. #462
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
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    30
    Holy cow guys. I just got the 12v mod from pro-team today and added it to the warp. Holy cow! This new mod helps greatly. What a big difference it makes!!

  13. #463
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Baltimore, MD
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    Sorry if this question was posted in this thread already.. there is alot of posts, and I would die finding what I need. Anyway, I should be recieving my brand new warp from AGD tommorow, and my question is, what should I do when I just get it other than mounting it,adding batteries, hooking up intellifeed, and hooking up hose?

  14. #464
    well what gun are you hooking it up to. if its the emag, lmk, because i have the exact AGD intellifeed cable you need, NEVER used, basically new and ill sell for real cheap

    hose. if its goin on ur micro e i think u might need to buy the PTP adapter. id also suggest if u have 3.2, while ordering the adapter from PTP also get the 12v mod.
    thats pretty much it. oh, dont forget that you need to set the lower right end dip switches for intellifeed, i think it says how to do that in manual. then u can also adjust dwell.
    nite

  15. #465
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Baltimore, MD
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    Mkkay, got it all set-up, thanks JT2002. No need for a PTP adapter ($30!!!! ).. I just modded the one AGD gave me.
    Now, for my next question, where exactly do you lube the Warp? Anywhere there is friction? It says to lube the gears, shaft, and feed wheel..What is the feed wheel and shaft? And where do I apply the lube to those?

  16. #466
    really, imho, all you really need is to shoot a case of paint, that has oil based shells, not the dry type ex. evil. which is the dry type. try shooting a case or so of midnight through it playing at field or w/e. u just want an oily shelld paint, and the oil from paint will come off on the wheels and lube it, its relaly not as bad as agd might make it seem. either that or lubing the friction disks by hand with some gun oil, BUT id highly suggest u just shoot paint thru it, worked for me, and my warp works great. as i see oiling it by hand could occur in over oiling it and making things messy. so all in all, just get a case of paint that has an oil based shell, and shoot it thru the warp whenever and you should be cool. basically the way to tell is your warp disks will feel slightly slippery if u stick ur finger in the hopper port and press a finger against the disk.
    you get all that?

  17. #467
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Baltimore, MD
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    What does the litte white button on near the circuit board do?

  18. #468
    its to prime the warp and hose. its basically just a manual activation, that you initially use to fill up the hose, your guns feed neck, and the warp with paint at the beginning of the day or whenever. u should never have to use it during the game. thats what vibration sensor/ intellifeed is for

  19. #469
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Baltimore, MD
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    So I went ballin last Sat. with the Warp on my Micro E-Mag. The motor was already "ran in" (brushes were broken in), and a brand new 9v battery was put in. I set it up for intellifeed, and tried a few jumper combinations until I found the one were it would work when I pulled the trigger. This is how it went, I fill up my halo with paint, press the little white button to fill up the warp and hose, and go off to start my first game. At first I was very pleased with the warp, it seemed to shoot fine, but I noticed that the balls were not stacking all the way in the hose, and were loose. This started happening when I upped my rate of fire (10-14bps), but only in bursts. So balls would just kinda roll into the breach. My lvl 10 saved my a$$ about 30 times or so. So I took off the warp and played with just the Halo for the rest of the day. Now, whats wrong? Here is a pic of my jumper setup on the warp board:

    (Sorry for the crappyness of the pic, but you can see the jumpers)

    Help me out here. Or am I outshooting the warp and need the 12v mod?

  20. #470
    i think u need to adjust for longer dwell time

  21. #471
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    Baltimore, MD
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    I think thats that longest it will get since I took off all the jumpers.

    (According to the instructions, the less vertical jumpers there are, the longer the dwell)
    Last edited by XzIpK21; 12-02-2003 at 02:57 PM.

  22. #472
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Baltimore, MD
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    Question

    Alright, I just got my warp and I followed the instructions on the proper method of breaking in the brushes. What puzzles me is the fact that the instructions tell me that the process will take several minutes, however, in my case I have already gone through 3 kinda old 9v batteries and I'm charging my 9v NmH battery which I will also attempt as well. Should it take this long to break the brushes in?

  23. #473
    all u had to do was throw an old one on and leave it running till teh battery was dead and it didnt spin

  24. #474
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Baltimore, MD
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    Right but isn't it supposed to start spinning again once I lower the sensitivity?

  25. #475
    all ur supposed to do is turn sensitivity all teh way UP and walk away

  26. #476
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Baltimore, MD
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    Oh, arite. One other thing though...when setting the dwell time, is this correct?: the more horizontal jumpers to put into place the longer the dwell time, and the more vertical jumpers to have the shorter the dwell time. According to the instructions and other sources, this should the way it works.

  27. #477
    nto sure havent looked at manual in a while

  28. #478
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Hood River, OR
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    sorry guys, didnt have time to read the whole thing, so i'll just ask this here.

    I have an '03 vert cocker and want a warp, do i absoloutley have to buy the PTP warp ($100 more) to run it on mine?
    thanks

  29. #479
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Burbank, CA USA
    Posts
    1,275

    powerfeed left or right for warp

    Originally posted by ClassicMagMan
    im gettin a minimag and I wanna get a warp for it which powerfeed should I get for it, left or right?
    If you are RIGHT handed like most of us get a 'Mag with Hopper right, meaning feed plug is on the left when you are aiming it. That way when you get a Warp Feed you can put it on the left side of the gun and run the hose straight up, instead of crossing it over or under the other side of the body.

  30. #480
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Elgin IL / West Lafayette IN
    Posts
    369
    I'm having the same prob as the guy above (the one who posted the jumpers pic) no jumpers, and the stack is very loose. Same jumper positon currently and linked to an Emag

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