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Thread: ALL about the WARP-FEED

  1. #151
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    I didnt mean for you to change your sig, but to try and disable it now and then.....

  2. #152
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    i didnt like it ne ways. haha.. my supplier sucked so the store it closed for a while... ne who. what wiring would hafta be wrong for the thing to get hot like that.. i could smell it.
    oogaboogawigywee!ITsa me! BLONDIE!
    Please resize your sig image - thanks.

    my feedback:
    http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=73289

  3. #153
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    i still need help.. how do i make it no hot?
    like... what wires... and how should they be...

  4. #154
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    it gradually gets hot when i turn it on.. cept it only takes bout a second to get very hot. that aint right..

  5. #155
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    pm'd you.

  6. #156
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    Ahhhh warp stopped working!!! Won't run even when hitting the load button.

    I checked the batteries. There's no visable damage to any of the leads on the board. The jumpers appear to be in the correct location, the battery clip appears to have good soldered connections.

    Right now I think I need a quick schematic of the board wiring. What's the polarity of the two wires (white and red) running directly to the motor? If I follow it correctly red is positive and white is negative. Is this correct? I'm just trying to figure out if my board is fried or if something else is going out.

    I'm supposed to be in my first tourny next week so I'm hoping to have it all up and running. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!

  7. #157
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    ya red is pos. white is neg.

    as for looking to see if the board is fried, look closely at the board and you would probably be able to see where a connection burnt out.

  8. #158
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    Interesting. Running 9 volts directly to the motor correctly won't cause the motor to spin. If I reverse the polarity (positive to negative) the warp spins fine, and in the correct direction. Yeah I looked pretty close, didn't have a magnifying lens, but I didn't see any discoloration, solder issues, popped leads or even any ESD damage. Any thoughts or should I just replace the board?

    Right now I figure I can just run power directly to the motor and install a few switches to get me through the tournament, but I'm kinda curious as to what happened. Thanks for the quick response by the way.

  9. #159
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    very interesting indeed, it appears I was wrong. If you look at the board, the red(pos.) connection from the battery is linked to the white(pos.) to the motor. However, if you look at the motor the red wire leads to the side of the motor that has a red mark over a "+" sign. That's what had me going but I never paid that much attention, I always just remembered what wires went where and how the motor was oriented by messing with so many of them, lol.

    Hrmmmm..... anyway, your motor works, you have fresh batteries and a good clip with all leads intact. Jumpers dont matter, if you can't activate the warp by pushing the button, then somethings up with the board. If you can't see any visible damage anywhere then just buy a new board or hook up the power straight to the motor like you said and send me the board, I'll see if I can repair it for ya.

  10. #160

    warp hose fix

    nobody seemed to care

    but just in case someone wants to do it. it does work quite well.

    so I thought I would post it here.



  11. #161
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    Originally posted by Havoc_online
    very interesting indeed, it appears I was wrong. If you look at the board, the red(pos.) connection from the battery is linked to the white(pos.) to the motor. However, if you look at the motor the red wire leads to the side of the motor that has a red mark over a "+" sign. That's what had me going but I never paid that much attention, I always just remembered what wires went where and how the motor was oriented by messing with so many of them, lol.

    Hrmmmm..... anyway, your motor works, you have fresh batteries and a good clip with all leads intact. Jumpers dont matter, if you can't activate the warp by pushing the button, then somethings up with the board. If you can't see any visible damage anywhere then just buy a new board or hook up the power straight to the motor like you said and send me the board, I'll see if I can repair it for ya.
    Yeah I'll do the switch thing for now. I'll pull the board out and bring it in to work. Get some better light, magnification, and some probes on there to see if I can figure out exactly what's puking on me. Thanks a lot for all the help man! Appreciate it!

  12. #162
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    cant understand

    I cant read the diagram for the 12 volt warp

  13. #163
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    Warp & E-Mag

    I see the I Frame walk through on www.airgun.com to hook up the warp, but is there a sheet for the e-mag?

  14. #164
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    you mean the warp/Emag interface cable? It plugs into the center connection on the board.

  15. #165
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    LOL

    NOOOOO!!!! It can't be that simple!!!

    ahh well....there's always my cocker to give me problems

  16. #166

    help

    Well I just got a used warp today. I got an awesome deal on it because the wires connecting the power source to the board had to be soldered. Fixed those. Now I turn it on and it will only spin when i hit the button. I tried adjusting the sensativity but that did nothing. hElp!

  17. #167
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    brand spankin' new warp feed

    I'm just bought my first warp and I plan on using it this weekend. I have set it up on my old skool RT and I'm getting ready to set the sensitivity and dwell. I was reading an earlier post and I have a question. Am I supposed to lube the friction wheels before I use the warp? By lubing the wheels I mean rubbing the faces of the friction disks with something like mag oil.

    Darrick

  18. #168
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    ncsurfer00


    go check the airgun site for the warp manual. the switches might be setup wrong. not the dwell ones, but the ones for teh sensor. theres like three sets of pins lined up like..
    ::
    ::
    ::

    you need to go to the manual and see which way to set them
    Good Buyers: rhetor22

    "AHHH Yet another "long" time cocker user wakes up, and comes to his senses. What can I say, Welcome to the intelligent side of paintball." - Creative Mayhem
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  19. #169
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    SocialD - correct.

  20. #170
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    or if your lazy like me you can just buy a oil based shell paintball and a half a case of those or more through it should do the job.

  21. #171

    Question

    Alright well i and instaling a Pro team warp feed onto my impulse. And i was tuning it and i had it set to the sensor part. So thats right correct? And then i was tunning it and i turned it all the way down to where the motor would just barely not spin(like all the way clockwise). and i would shoot and it still wouldnt spin. Whats wrong?

  22. #172
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    I got a problem with my warp. Don't know the cause so I came to this thread. When I use "wet shells" System X balls, my warp flies but when I use "dry shells" PMI prems it has a hard time loading. What can I do to fix this? Oh by the way they are the same bore. So my question is What's the Dealio? My setup is like this Rico to warp, warp goes to bottom of h/r p/f on my minimag. I've included a pic for reference sakes. Oh and yes they are very nice sheets
    BUY great quality gear, parts from RogueFactor, SoCal PRIDE!!feedback
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  23. #173
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    you can use the oil for your mag and VERY lightly rub some onto the wheels to lubricate them. but in my case shooting a case of the "wet shells" through my warp worked well and have had no probs with Evil paint yet.

  24. #174

    Warp breaking balls!

    Havoc,

    I have an opportunity to buy a slightly used Warp (less than 6 hours of field time)for a great price, which a friend of mine bought new but doesn't like because he was breaking paint in the breach. He was using it on a new classic automag with a level 10 and an all american 2 pc barrel. We were shooting winter paint at CPX and it was about 35 degrees outside. When I looked at it I noticed that he had not lubed the discs and that he had the dwell jumpers all in the non functional positions. When he removed the Warp he didn't break any additional balls so it seems that the rest of his setup is okay. What do you think could be the issues? I plan to install this on my new RTPRO is there anything special I need to know concerning the install. How many dwell jumpers should I be using?

  25. #175
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    impulseplayer just adjust the dial to the point where it spins reliably with each cycle.

    RoadDawg you need to lube your friction disks with dry paint.

    Lesman you pretty much answered your own question. lube the disks and set the dwell for about 1/4 turn(should be like two jumpers) you should be fine.

  26. #176

    One more question

    Havoc,

    Things are looking pretty good thanks for your input. I did notice that when I slipped the hose fitting on the end of my powerfeed that it is kind of loose. It takes little pressure to slide it on. Is this normal? It seems like it wouldn't be very durable in the field. Do you have any suggestions on how to snug up the fit?

  27. #177
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    you bet, go over the first couple of posts in the first page.

    use a short thin piece of friction tape(not even enough to wrap around the bottom of the powertube and that makes a big difference....

  28. #178

    Thanks

    Havoc,

    Thanks for your help, I am heading out to Challenge Park this weekend to give the new warp a try.

  29. #179
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    Oct 2002
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    Stevens Point, WI
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    I've got a really basic question. I've got two guns that I'm picking up warp feeds for, for my team. Mine is an RT pf hopper left and the other is a verticle feed minimag. Will I need to pick up the Pro Team 90* for each of these or will everything I need come from AGD? Is there anything else that I would need to pick up? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
    mike

  30. #180
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    dont hold me to this but it looks like you might have to make your own custom adapter for the 90* adapter to fit on the body. something like some sort of tubing just long enough to stick out of the vertical feed and for the 90* adapter to hold on to

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