on havoc online it says that you can dip the shells in w/ the sensors and just let them dry
on havoc online it says that you can dip the shells in w/ the sensors and just let them dry
www.redvsblue.com
dyNASTY
Hey, I have a question, my warp wont spin when I shoot my classic valved mag. I know it is on, and I know it works, because if you push the button it will spin. I used to run an intellifeed on it, so it was never a problem. I have tried adjusting the dial on the side, but it had no effect.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
*After giving personal info for buying a used item*
LoserStrikesBack:Oh and one more thing
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LoserStrikesBack:By law, i have to tell you because im sending you a package
LoserStrikesBack:im a rapist
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Auto response from LoserStrikesBack:Raping santa...be right back
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hey 02 vert cocker....
you have to take off the black housing on the right side and fix the jumpers so its on sensing mode instead of intellifeed...
i dont have my manual right now so i cant tell you the exact positions... sorry.
merry xmas.
AO RULES!
Hi; got some questions on the warp. Any help is appreciated.
1) I did the emag power mod from robagd.com and the 12 volt regulator got too hot to touch. I added an aluminum heat sink, but the heat sink got just as hot. I'm worried about melting through my shells. Anybody do this mod?
2) Is one 9 volt battery fast enough? I had my bps set at 18 and was getting chops. Should I knock down my bps or go for the 12 volt?
3) I have the emag link on my warp and have three jumpers on the dwell. Anybody know from experience what is a good number of jumpers?
well I have my warp set with an 18volt mod and only 2 jumpers I don't have any over heating problems
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Study hard
Remove the shunt from the top and put it in the middle on the board right next to the plug inOriginally Posted by 02vertcocker
how long of a feed tube can you run with the warp feed???
ive heard as long as it is from a pack on you back to you gun so pretty far
I just purchased a Warp feed and a ULE hopper left body. I was planning on using the T shaped power feed (came with it) and sending the hose straight down to the warp (hopper is an Egg, so it's not in the way).
My question is... the small plastic attacment that fits perfectly when connected directly to the WL is extremely loose on the T shaped feed. Is there a piece available that fits tightly on the T-feed wih the other end fitting properly on the hose? If not, any suggestions? I was trying not to have to use tape or something.
Thanks for any info and help.
Dave Cilio
Team Knightmare Tango
www.ktpaintball.com
Sponsored by:
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Im sorry if this question has already been asked
I heard that if you use the 12v mod, the motor will heat to higher temps than normal and melt some parts on the board. How do you prevent this?
also, is the ptp faster or same as agd's?
Last edited by UTDragun; 02-14-2005 at 01:05 PM.
embargo backwards = o grab me
"Guns dont kill people, husbands that come home early do." -Larry The Cable Guy
Dragun Drallion, nexus kit, tickler, e2, pysco 5" drop w/ on off, macroline, A+ bolt and back block, Oydessy 3 barrel kit, armson stealth, 15* ASA, Kapp pump arm, Black Magic, warp feed w/ 12v upgrade, halo b w/ vic&rip, 91/4500 bulldog
Tippmann 98C ebolt, lp kit, m-16 kit, palmer stabilizer
I haven't heard of this with a 12v mod. I have heard of people wiring up 18v and frying the board.
im running 2 9v's wired parallel so overheating
you mean no overheating? like a "big cell" set up?Originally Posted by E r y k
2 9v's in parallel only produces 9v of output. I was talking about some people were connecting two 9v's in series for 18v of output, and that was frying the board.
yeap... no problems, battery life is extended greatly.
ive ran a good 9-10 cases through it so far... and ive probably used ~4 batts
i knew of that, but my friends board melted cuz the motor got extremely hotOriginally Posted by Jazkal
why dont they make a 18v board?
Is it possible to connect a BooYaah E-LCD frame to the Warp interface in some way, like you do with the intelliframe? Could you maybe just solder tha cables directly to the trigger microswitch?
you would be better off soldering the cables to the solenoid wires. See the 'warp to angel' guide on airgun.com.
I own a custom 98 and want to put a warp feed on. what's the difference between the agd and proteam models? so far all I can tell is some kind of angled feed neck for non-automags because of the automags slanted feed tube that allows ball entry from the bottom. the price difference between the two kits is huge, and I'd obviously like the cheaper of the two. what can you guys tell me?
I also think there is a difference in the plate that connects the warp to the gun.Originally Posted by theVicious1
Is it something I could work around? And another concern woud be the method of activation. does the agd model come with a vibration sensor so it could feasibly be used as a universal application? And thanks for any help you guys can give me, I know I'm not an automag owner but this was the only place with a dedicated forum to the warp feed, and furthermore it isn't occupied by idiots. ever been to the pbstar forums? nuff said.
im just testing, cuz it still sais i cant post a reply
why do all people assume the warp can only feed 12 or 16 bps. dont you people shoot fast? Ive hooked up a warp to a spyder with a rocker trigger and the warp kept up to 30 bps.
Hey fellas, just thought I would follow up on my question with an answer. Yes the AGD warp feed works on the 98c, and yes it is bad @ss! I just put a hopper through it and it freakin rocked! sideways, upsidedown, and all over it kept shooting. I thought it might not kee up with my response trigger since I only have the single 9 volt power supply, but when I let it rip the warp feed kept up, and even managed to slip more than one round at a time past my ball detent. that is my only bad experience, but I justinstalled another jumper(making for a total of 2) so hopefully that will solve my problem. Other than that I am way happy with the product, it's performance, and it looks awesome! I like the looks, I didn't think it would look that good. the Apache hopper I've got on it just goes perfectly, I didn't need to melt/cut up my hopper at all, the apache's nose is angled just enough to let the tube rise unhindered.
Bottomline: AGD warp feed works on my 98c, so you don't have to buy the overpriced proteam model. thanks AGD, great product. If I ever go with another marker besides my Tippy(it hurts to even say that) I'm definitely getting one of your markers. The tac-one looks sweet!
agd feed.
i dont know if this was mentioned in the last 20 pages, but how can i adjust the warp so that it doesn't feed the balls so hard?
it is pushing them really hard, the paints shells are actually flattening under the pressure.
it is breaking lots of balls in the chamber, and has chopped a few. i think it is pushing the balls past the nubbin.
so how do i do it?
upgrade fund: $145
you shot 30 bps on a spyder...Originally Posted by ben-afficial
never the less with a rocker trigger...
well if you have a 12v mod or the big cell then just take on of the 9v off and use one.Originally Posted by wanna-b-ballin'
jsut leave soem paint in your warp for a couple days and the pressure plates should bend out thus not have the same gripping power they have now
is it modded?
get new detents for the gun perhaps, there might not be anything you can do about it