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Thread: Tolerance Specifications - E-Mag - RT-Pro - Minimag/Automag - Level 10

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    1,097
    Quote Originally Posted by Couponqueen89
    uhhh...i ment the the battery charger..
    ahh sorry

    um i use this charger


    not sure if it is - or +

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
    Posts
    708
    Can I get the same info for a micromag? 1st gen, if that makes a difference.
    Such a sham(e).

  3. #33
    What is the size of the ball bearing in the saftey and the switch in the E-Mag?

    Also, a little off topic, what color(s) anno did the flatline 4500 reg come in?

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    15

    Exclamation i got a ?

    i got a RT ULE Custom 2 days ago, i put air on it and all the happened was air came out the barrel. if you can tell me anything that i can do besides sending it back i would greatly be thankful. it also has a ULT installed.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Silverdale, Wa
    Posts
    1,093
    NOT!!! Acording to techs at Proteam. The on/off pin is shorter.

    Quote Originally Posted by redlaser666
    Tolerances for the micro are the same as the standard automag or minimag.
    stay proud, Stay mechanical!

    And my feed back is at: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1771790#post1771790

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    montana
    Posts
    371
    So black, if I have Emag #538, does it have the .725 pin? It's one of the first emag valves. Then to get an x valve to work in my mag I just need a .712 pin?

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    716
    I recently had a talk with Athomas about the sear rod lengths. I asked if it was safe to adjust the rod so it'd be closer to the back position in emode on my emag. He said it'd be fine.

    I was kind of surprised to hear that so I pm'd him back asking if he thought it was safe to do it on Emags but not any other mags. He said no, you can adjust the rod in any gun, just it must NOT hit the trigger. And that people say not to change it because morons would do just that(make it hit the trigger) and screw up their gun.

    I currently have mine adjusted a lot farther than what the stock length is. It still works perfect, hybrid is much easier to use, and is a lot faster now as well.

    What are your thoughts on this?

    My Gallery My Feedback
    UT2004 -> Boydster
    XBL -> Boydster 07

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Fort Wayne, IN
    Posts
    112
    Quote Originally Posted by elpimpo
    ok when ur setting up the trigger rod to the 1.985 inches where do u measure from.
    From the end of the rod to the end of the clevis.

  9. #39
    Searched didn't find me an answer, that being said...

    What thread and size is the screw used in the front of the trigger frame to mount it to the body?

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Belchertown, MA
    Posts
    109
    can i get the specs in metric for the classic mag please? my caliper does not measure in .005inches, thats just silly, lol

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    70
    Quote Originally Posted by BlackVCG
    E-Mag:

    On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
    .725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

    Trigger Rod: 2.125"

    Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"

    RT-Pro:

    On/Off Pin: .765"

    Trigger Rod: 1.985"

    Retro Valve/X-Valve/Classic RT:

    On/Off Pin: .750"

    Automag Classic/Minimag:

    On/Off Pin: .750"

    Trigger Rod: 1.985"

    Level 10:

    Bolt stem: 2.010"
    huh? Ok, so my RT pro ule, which came with an X-valve should have a .750" pin. What would happen if I replaced it with on from a standard RT pro, .765" The reason I asked is I recently got a replacement on/off from a local store, and although the gun works, it takes a long time to reseat the trigger, resulting in chuffing if I dryfire too fast.

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    BFE Nor*Cal
    Posts
    1,048
    If you got your Pro from the factory, check your velocity and tune your Level 10.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    chandler,az
    Posts
    1,777
    i picked up a on/off pin and its .712.ive got a brass top on/off,would it work if i just added an extra oring?just on top of the other one?

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    the gran ole' usa
    Posts
    39
    hmmmm, why not just try it. i cant see it ruining anything.


    ~not liable for any damages incurred as a result of my advice~

  15. #45
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    chandler,az
    Posts
    1,777
    i think i found the problem with my emag.my trigger rod was way too short and i was going to lengthen it and it adjusted way too easily.how do i tighten the threads?

  16. #46
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    the gran ole' usa
    Posts
    39
    loctite

  17. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    the country of california
    Posts
    1,134

    my specs

    Gun and specs
    minimag/ x-valve/ intella frame/ 12v warp feed/ dynaflow adjustable hp reg

    -on/off assembly has upper quadring

    -on/off pin .735 due to the quadring and desired rapid response trigger feel. .740 would not cycle and .725 was leaky and way to fast.

    -Level X bolt(not really a big fan but i keep trying. I should run a roto, no warp and a level 7)

    -input pressure 950psi at 13bps(estimation)
    -input pressure 1100psi at 18+bps
    -if problems occur go back to all stock specs( this includes the level 7 bolt and use the specs from AGD). if problem is solved then start rebuilding the marker piece at a time till the problem retuns. if problem prissiest then the gun has ben modified in some way to change the tolerances like a paint job instead of anno, or something.
    hope this helps someone

  18. #48
    how do you kno which on off pin to use? is the the valve or the rail or body?

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