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Thread: Intellilink hyperframe to warp with common battery

  1. #1
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    Exclamation Intellilink hyperframe to warp with common battery

    I have read about others having problems intellilinking a hyperframe with a warp when they both use the same battery. I had the same problem. I tried various combinations of diodes to isolate the warp from the hyperframe with no luck. I gave up on the diodes when I let the smoke out of one (they never work right once you let the smoke out ). To isolate the warp I use a reed relay. When the solenoid is activated it closes the relay (same as closing a switch) and signals the warp to spin. With this setup you put the warp intellilink jumper on the top (same as when using a switch). The current draw from the relay (11 ma) isn't enough to affect the solenoid (at least on mine, but I do have the "power" setting at 9). The relay is Radio Shack part number 275-233 which is a SPST - 12VDC Reed Relay.

    Here is a simple diagram that illustrates how to install the relay:
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  2. #2
    another way to do it it to use a STDP solid state relay. rewire the trigger to activate the relay. then use one relay pole to "trigger" the frame circuit and the other pole to make the warp run. it take about 30 mintues and you have to rewire the grip a little. but its not hard and it 100% isolates the two circiuts.

    (PS: this will work for boo-yaah, ESP, dragun, centerflag, etc grips as well)
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  3. #3
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    I didn't see any solid state relays (that's what I would have preferred) at radio shack. I'm curious, do you have to use a DP relay when it's a solid state relay to isolate the two circuits?

  4. #4
    goto www.alliedelec.com they have many many! you can get them in dip8, dip6 and soic8 packages for about $2-10 each. so they can fit in the grip without changing anything.

    yes, you do have to get a DP one. it is just like a regular mechanical relay, except it is done electronically and it is ALOT smaller than any mech relay out there. make sure you get a solid state relay too. they do have opto-isolators as well. you would think it is the same thing, but most opto-isos have about 150-200 ohms of "on-state" resistance. a solid state realy will have about .1-2 ohms.(more like a switch)

  5. #5
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    i have found that connecting just the negative lead of the solenoid to the intellifeed (to the tip of the conector) and setting it to (-) works. its the positive lead that causes problems.

    no need for funky parts that way, too. :-)
    "The Fine Print: Discontinue use if your eyeballs suddenly get way smaller."

  6. #6
    that shouldn't do anything..........all you have done is connect the grounds of the circuits. without connecting the tip of the warp connector, you will not really have control of the circuit.

    the other thing you have to consider when connecting your warp to the seliniod is the inductive kick that is created. when a large inductor (like the coil of the noid) is charged it creats a magnetic feild. when the control circuit of the grip grouds the noid it trips the sear. then the coil charges again. this causes a very large inductive kick. that is what is most likely triggering the warp. ALOT of induced voltage on the ground line. not a good way to do it. it could cause the circuit to burn out faster than if it was connected correctly.

  7. #7
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    pic


    *EDIT* i changed my first post, its to the tip. it does just ground it though.
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  8. #8
    I still wouldn't do it that way. the induced voltage from the inductor can be detructive to the circuit.

  9. #9
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    ok, ill tell you my cicuit (no board in the gun right now). Negative goes to the trigger switch. out from the switch is the solenoid and the intellifeed wire. the intellifeed wire goes to the tip of the connector. i have an on/off switch after the solenoid, which in turn leads back to positive. remember, the intellifeed is set to (-).

    I assume running off the solenoid pulse would be the same thing.

    *EDIT*, it does work with the solenoid turned off.

  10. #10
    ahhhh.....ok. I got ya now. that would isolate the warp from the noid pulse.

    he he.....I still like my design better. with mine you can prime the warp with the trigger. (Cause when you pull the trigger, the warp runs. even if the gun is on safe)

  11. #11
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    as can I. mine should do that with any gun, assuming the trigger gets a direct (-). turning off the curcuit board (or in my case, the solenoid) shouldnt matter. plus, mines waaaaaaaaay easier to do. :-)

  12. #12
    your design will cycle the warp if the gun is on safe? how does the relay trip of the noid doesn't change state?

  13. #13
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    mine has no relay, its a direct curcuit (no controller board). the on/off switch only opens the solenoid's curcuit. the trigger is always on, and the intellifeed cable has no on/off on it.

    depending on the board, the prime may or may not work on a gun with a board. if the triggerswitch is always connected to (-), you could run the link from the switch. if not, you would have to run from the solenoid pulse, in which case you wouldnt get the prime.

    damn im good.

  14. #14
    oh........I guess that would work.

    If you have a grip with a control board in it, the control board controls the noid pulse. so it would only cycle the warp if the gun were fired from a "live" setting.

  15. #15
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    that depends on how "live" is controlled. and also where you connect your link.

    trace your board. i betcha the triggerswitch is still connected to either positive or negative, even in "safe". if its negative, you could run the link from the switch, not the relay, and then you would be able to prime. if not, then yes, it would only work in 'live".

    when i did mine, i HAD to figure this out, because i didnt know enough to isolate the warp any other way.

  16. #16
    actually it doesn't (at least not on the boo-yaah/mako grips)

    the noid gets 9V(or battery) on one side and the control circuit grounds the other side to fire the gun.(so it is a switched ground from the circuit) The trigger switch has ground on one side and 5v on the other(goes to the control board) you cant just tap into the 5v side because the warp circuit and the control board on the grip interact in bad ways. (hence the need for isolation) trust me, the 9 volts present on the warp connector tip and the 5 volt logic on the control circuit of the grip makes it imposible to fire the gun. it just never gets close enough to ground to fire.

  17. #17
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    right, forgot about the 5V thing.

    oh well, no prime, but it could still work off the solenoid relay. :-)

    /me going to go to bed

  18. #18
    that it could..........

    and you could prime it the old fasion way........and reach WAY over and push the little button.....lol

  19. #19
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    not cool!

  20. #20
    Having tried just about everything Hi-tech tried with the same results and in the end giving up, it would be great if you could post pictures of the finished article as I am not the most technical of people.

    Also has anyone thought of a cunning plan for all those wires running from the warp to the hyperframe? Only pulled them off the connections three times and once at the Campaign Cup last year 2 minutes before a game!! Great timing.

  21. #21
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    just run a lead from one of the solenoid wires (it shouldnt matter, but you should test it before soldering) to the tip of the connector. that will probably work, though im not sure.

  22. #22
    no, that would not work. you need to do it the way the pict above shows, with a relay. otherwise you could end up hurting your warp. you can do it my way too........complettely fool proof.

  23. #23
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    Originally posted by sniper1rfa
    Plus, mines waaaaaaaaay easier to do.
    Where were you when I was trying to hook mine up! I never thought about trying it that way.

  24. #24
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    dunno, i did it about a month ago maybe. did it completely accidentaly, actually.

  25. #25
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    Actually I'm surprised I didn't think of it. As soon as I read what you did I thought "of course". When I was trying to do it with the + solenoid pules I noticed that having just the + wire hooked up to the center post caused the warp to spin continuously (since it's the ground on the solenoid that is switched, not the +). Since I realized that the ground was switched, you would think I would have tried it. Oh well, I was in to big of a hurry. At least it works now.

  26. #26
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    thats how i did it. i just tapped each lead seperately to the sleeve and the post (innuendo!) till it worked.

  27. #27
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    You should have seen me when I was trying out the diodes. Everything just barely attached and me needing four hands. It was quite a sit I'm sure. I gave up when I let the smoke out of one of the diodes.

  28. #28
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    i have four (count them, four) warp boards that i fried. three are fixed, and one is still toast. :-) it has no majick smoke left.



  29. #29
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    I intellified my warp a long time ago, even posted a FAQ. Its a great idea, I messed around with attaching both warp and booyaah to the same power source, but I thought it was not worth it. One problem I found that occured when intellifying the warp to the mag is if you run a 18v mod etc to the hopper then you can run into some issues. My friend got a modded warp and it continued to spin, it only worked when we had 2 other warps that worked fine and we found the only difference being the extra battery. We took the extra 9v out and sure enough it worked. I need to add that to my FAQ, Hightech, would you like me to post up your imformation on my FAQ, with a note reffering to you?
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  30. #30
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    what about me and xen? there are three different solutions to the same problem here.

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