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Thread: Hyperframe WOes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2001
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    Richmond, Va, USA
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    1,360

    Unhappy Hyperframe WOes

    well I went out to play today, expecting to use my hyperframe, well after much frustration I benched it and hit up a stock frame;


    problem - solenoid will trip sear about 5 shots and then, not fire the marker anymore; its like the solenoid doesn't have enough power to push the sear. this is with fresh batteries and the power level at 9; so after about 1.5 hours of messing with it, I finally got to play with it.


    it was a rough day, a lot of my gear didn't work to well;


    thanx for any help you guys can give me

    Richmond

    Forest Green Unmilled Viking #475
    (black razor blade and black sticky3s)
    black 14in Powerlyte Scepter Kit
    Black Halo B
    88/45 Centerflag Hyperflow Stub

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2000
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    Where the Mt. Dew flows like wine
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    1,655
    How cold was it? The low 30deg temp sucked my 9vs fast yesterday.


    Super Moderator at Pbreview.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    50-60s temp was not a problem


    also anyone know how to lower the amount of force needed to open the on/off valve, then that might fix my problems


    thanx

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Poughkeepsie, NY
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    924

    Lightbulb Yep

    Yea, I had the same problem as you even at the level 9 setting for the solenoid.

    What i did was pull the solenoid apart and polish the plunger/plate part of it, where it goes into the solenoid, then using a dremel, cut a small groove into the plunger (not the pin, but the wider part) to vent out the air that gets trapped in the solenoid.

    Then I glued a 1.5 mm thick rubber ring to the disc part of the solenoid and the grip frame. Polishing the on/off pin helped too(the pin that comes with the frame not the stock one) and after all this, the thing was working. I'm pretty sure less stuff was probably need, but this is what worked for me, but then again, I like to tinker with my stuff

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2001
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    ok that seems like a solution

    can you send me a PM and explain in further detail how to do this stuff, I will prolly send you one tomorrow

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    NorCal
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    Make sure you are using centerflags on/off bottom and pin. The pin looks like an RT pin. Make sure it is well oiled. Polishing won't hurt either. Also, make sure the solenoid is adjusted correctly. Here's how:


    You want to determine if the sear is engaging fully. To do this, remove the grip panels and the safety (be careful not to loose the spring or the TINY ball bearing). Gas up the marker and fire it a couple of times. See if you can manually move the solenoid plunger away from the sear "leg". You need to have a small gap between the sear leg and the solenoid plunger. If you do have a gap then try and move the sear leg (accessible through the safety hole). It should NOT move.

    If the gap is too large, loosen the four VERY small set screws in the top of the grip frame (you will have to remove the grip frame to gain access to them) and move the solenoid.


    Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
    Hitech is the man.... - Blennidae
    The only Hitech Lubricant

  7. #7
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    May 2001
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    ok i will try those things today I really hope I can get it working, thanx for the help


    and hitech, so there should be a gap btw the sear leg and the solenoid plunger and the plunger should move but the leg not

    thanx

  8. #8
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    Originally posted by LawFox32
    hitech, so there should be a gap btw the sear leg and the solenoid plunger and the plunger should move but the leg not

    thanx
    Yes. You want that gap as small as possible. Just touching is fine also. But you have to be sure the sear is latched all the way.

    Good luck.

  9. #9
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    May 2001
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    what do you mean latched?

    thanx

  10. #10
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    The sear has to be all the way "forward" so that the maximum area possible is holding the bolt back. The easiest way to determine this is to have a small gap between the solenoid and sear leg. Then make sure you cannot push the sear leg forward (toward the solenoid). You do not actually need that gap, but the solenoid should NOT keep the sear leg from moving all the way forward.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
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    AO's resident medic
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    centeflag makes the on/off pin in three different lengths, if the pin you have is too long the lower end will mushroom and the frame will 'click' but the gun wont fire. when this happens try wiggling the safety button, if the gun fires at this piont then the mushrooming is the problem. take the on/off assy out of the valve and try to remove the pin from the assy. if the pin wont come out then you have a mushroomed lower end. file the edges so that you can remove the pin, then file the length down or call centerflag and ask for a new shorter one(you will need to mic the one you have or just ask for the shortest one thay make)they usually send them no-charge.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2001
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    I think I am just going to send my mag into centerflag next week; I will let them set it up, and maybe upgrade my board too; I don't feel like messing around too much with it;

    P.S. does anyone know how much this would cost; i know the board upgrade is 35, but how much to service it

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
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    NorCal
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    rjvemt1,
    I am putting a Hyperframe FAQ together. Would you mind if I quoted you? Do you have any other usefull tech posts?

    Thanks

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    London, UK
    Posts
    312
    Excellent idea. I am awaiting my hyperframe which I'll be fitting to a classic 'mag with Emag valve. Centerflag are sending me both long and short on/off pins, and I intend to try them with the Emag quad on/off O-ring (which is supposed to give the Emag solenoid an easier time I believe) and the standard on/off O-ring setup.

    I'll post my findings after a bit of experimentation.

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