Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: hyper frame...big problem..need help.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    canaa
    Posts
    94

    hyper frame...big problem..need help.

    OK, I really need help and fast. I bought my hyper frame from a guy but it did not have the safty on it and now it's not shooting when the safty does'nt come back...please help me fast...
    marc leblanc

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    canaa
    Posts
    94
    please hurry....does'nt any one know???

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    canaa
    Posts
    94
    I need a little help around here...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Quartz Hill
    Posts
    1,647
    I dont understand what you are talking about... but i can prolly help you if you tell me your problem clearly.
    Sig over 50k

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    canaa
    Posts
    94
    ok, so my (on and off) safety pin is'nt there. so that means that I can see thought it. and the problem is, when I shoot my gun i can see the little safety bouton mouving and it just shoot one or twice then it stop shooting.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    4,775
    I not sure what exactly is happening. So, I'll post my Hyperframe FAQ and maybe it will help.

    Also if the safety "button" is missing, how can you see it move? What you see when the safety "button" is missing is the leg of the sear. It moves backward to fire the marker.

    Okay, here is the FAQ:

    Hyperframe FAQ

    The following are "reprints" of my posts regarding the hyperframe. The title contains a link to the original thread.

    Adjusting the Hyperframe's solenoid, On/Off pin to short

    You probably need a longer on/off pin. I had the same wear pattern and fixed it with a longer on/off pin. Regardless, you want to determine if the sear is engaging fully. To do this, remove the grip panels and the safety (be careful not to loose the spring or the TINY ball bearing). Gas up the marker and fire it a couple of times. See if you can manually move the solenoid plunger away from the sear "leg". You need to have a small gap between the sear leg and the solenoid plunger. If you do have a gap then try and move the sear leg (accessible through the safety hole). It should NOT move. If it does, the pin is not long enough.

    If there is no gap, or it is large, loosen the four VERY small set screws in the top of the grip frame (you will have to remove the grip frame to gain access to them) and move the solenoid.

    Also, you should be using a RT style bumper (clear). They dampen bolt bounce better than the classic bumper (blue). The more the bolt bounces the more it will wear the sear.

    Added: BTW, you can also use a RT pin. They come in various lengths.



    On/off Pin Too Long

    Provided by rjvemt1:
    Centeflag makes the on/off pin in three different lengths. If the pin you have is too long the lower end will mushroom and the frame will 'click' but the gun wont fire. When this happens try wiggling the safety button, if the gun fires the mushrooming is the problem. Take the on/off assembly out of the valve and try to remove the pin from the assembly. If the pin will not come out you have a mushroomed lower end. File the edges so that you can remove the pin, then file the length down or call Centerflag and ask for a new shorter one (you will need to mic the one you have or just ask for the shortest one they make).



    Starting Service Mode.

    With the Hyperframe off, press and hold the bottom button. While still holding the bottom button and before it turns on press and hold the top button. Wait. It will turn on in service mode. When you are done making your changes, press and hold the bottom button to turn it off.



    Level 10 bolt stick?

    I have a broken in (6k plus rounds) level 10 in an automag classic. It is using the largest carrier that does not leak and the longest spring.. I'm using the RT bumper. I also have a hyperframe. When I really get on the trigger and get the rof up I get "bolt stick". The bolt does not reset in the oring; it's protruding into the breech about 1/4 of the way and leaks like crazy. I turn off the air, it resets and I can turn the air back on and everything is fine, until I get the rof up again. I did notice that the RT bumper is a little thicker than the classic bumper. Any ideas?

    BTW, I'm running a 9.6 volt battery pack for the hyperframe instead of a standard 9 volt battery.



    Level 10 bolt "stick" fixed.

    I posted earlier that I thought I was getting bolt "stick" with the level 10 bolt and a Hyperframe. (You can read about it here https://www.automags.org/forums/show...&threadid=63676 ) However, it wasn't sticking on return, it was failing to push the paintball all the way into the barrel and was stopping about the point the power piston came to the end of the oring. The hyperframe was providing a much shorter trigger pull time so the on/off opened before the bolt could get back. Hence, bolt stick. Switching to the shortest spring solved the problem. Just thought someone else might have the same problem.



    Attention Hyperframe owners, upgrade available

    I just got off the phone with Centerflag Products (makers of the Hyperframe) and they have an upgrade option that I think is a great deal (I don't think it was anything special for me). You can upgrade your existing Hyperframe board for a new full auto board for $35. This is the new board developed for the auto cocker. It allows full auto and more importantly (at least to me) has a setting for the duration of the solenoid pulse. It can be set from 1ms to 99ms. The two biggest wear problems with the Hyperframe are on/off pins that are too short and a short solenoid pulse. You can get a longer on/off pin, and now you can set the solenoid duration to whatever you want.

    Contact information:

    Centerflag Products
    PO Box 148
    Yorkville, Il 80560

    Phone: 630-553-2611
    Fax: 630-533-2631



    Intellifeeding a warp to a Hyperframe with a common battery.

    I have read about others having problems intellilinking a hyperframe with a warp when they both use the same battery. I had the same problem. I tried various combinations of diodes to isolate the warp from the hyperframe with no luck. I gave up on the diodes when I let the smoke out of one (they never work right once you let the smoke out ). To isolate the warp I use a reed relay. When the solenoid is activated it closes the relay (same as closing a switch) and signals the warp to spin. With this setup you put the warp intellilink jumper on the top (same as when using a switch). The current draw from the relay (11 ma) isn't enough to affect the solenoid (at least on mine, but I do have the "power" setting at 9). The relay is Radio Shack part number 275-233 which is a SPST - 12VDC Reed Relay.

    Here is a simple diagram that illustrates how to install the relay:
    <img src=https://www.automags.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=659055">


    Alternative connection posted by xen_100:
    Another way to do it it to use a STDP solid state relay. rewire the trigger to activate the relay. then use one relay pole to "trigger" the frame circuit and the other pole to make the warp run. it take about 30 mintues and you have to rewire the grip a little. but its not hard and it 100% isolates the two circiuts.

    (PS: this will work for boo-yaah, ESP, dragun, centerflag, etc grips as well)

    <img src="https://www.automags.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=659595">


    And yet another alternative connection posted by sniper1rfa

    I have found that connecting just the negative lead of the solenoid to the intellifeed (to the tip of the connector) and setting it to (-) works. It's the positive lead that causes problems. No need for funky parts that way, too. :-)


    Hey Hitech your starting to sound like me! - AGD
    Hitech is the man.... - Blennidae
    The only Hitech Lubricant

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    canaa
    Posts
    94
    ok so that's what it is...I'm seeing the leg of the sear, but the problem is that the little leg of the sear is not always moving back..it shoot then it stays stuck.

    I guess my question is. Is my gun suppost tu shoot even with out my on/off safety pin? and if yes could it be possible that the safety goes off or on without my control??

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    canaa
    Posts
    94
    OK, I think I maybe found my problem...my service modewas set at 6 and maybe that why my gun was'nt shooting good..not enought power?

    Well I'll see in a few day once I get my tank back?

    <<<<My question is, is my gun suppost to shoot even if my on/off pin is missing?>>>>

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    4,775
    Yes, it will shoot fine without the safety. And yes, it could be the power setting. Set it at 9 and see if it fixes it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Quartz Hill
    Posts
    1,647
    I talked to centerflag and they said that 5-6 was the best setting. 9 will wear down your battery faster...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •