Yeah you have too many shims in the ULT. Also make sure your pressure is high enough to shoot paint at a normal speed like 280fps. It's not your LvL10 though. It's going to be your ULT or the sear.
Need to stop by the shop to get some more air and I'll start taking shims out of the ULT and see if that takes care of the problem. As far as the sear goes its in very good shape. The pressure should be right around 280 from the last time I played, but I'll double check that also.Originally Posted by Sk8ermog
Thanks for the help...
Ok, I removed 5 of the 7 shims 2 at a time and then the last one. No real difference. Still hiccups when I start walking the trigger. I oiled the ULT. Turned up the velocity (not sure what it's shooting at but I'm sure its around 300 fps if not over) The sear looks ok. What else could be causing this? Low battery maybe? I'll try a new battery but not sure what else would cause this. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks...Originally Posted by Sk8ermog
Make sure you are using high quality batteries (NO raovac). Better yet, one of the 9.6 volt nimh (such as plainview) with a min 170mah rating.
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Thanks for the info hitech, I'm using Duracell. That should be good enough. Right? Maybe I need to purcase something better. What about the Java 9.6V rechargeables?Originally Posted by hitech
NEw battery and not any better... I'm wondering if the battery connection on the board might be wrong. When I got this frame it came w/ out the plug on the board and wires for the battery. I went to Radio Shack and got the battery connector and a cordless phone battery that had the same plug for the board and soldered the 2 together. I didn't have a good pic to look at to see which sides the red and black wires went. I found one on warpigs article. The best I could tell is that the black wire goes in the plug toward the trigger and the red goes toward the rear. Could this be my problem? Would the board even turn on if the wires were switched? Do you have a good pic for me to look at? The one in ths thread is really hard to make out.
EDIT: Here's the pic I referenced for the battery wiring.
Last edited by nevtangle; 04-21-2006 at 12:46 PM.
If you have the battery wired backwards you would likely have fried the board by now...Originally Posted by nevtangle
Duracells are fine. The java 9.6 is a goog choice, but probably wan't solve your problem. I have no experience with ULTs, but your problem sounds like too long of an on/off pin. At higher rates of fire the on/off doesn't open enough to fully recharge the dump chamber. As the ROF increases the pressure in the dump chamber drops to the point where there is not enough pressure to force the bolt all the way out.
Thats what I was thinking. So it seems to be wired correctly.Originally Posted by hitech
Should I give the Centerflag on/off a try? I know its not as good as the ult, but migt be worth a try.Originally Posted by hitech
If my pin is too long won't adding shims to the ult fix this? Adding shims basically shortens the pin length of the ult. Have you used the CF on/off in an Xvalve?
So what you said about the pin being too long makes a lot of sense. I'll try cramming more shims back into the ult. Since adding shims shortens the pin hopefully I can fit enough in there to fix the problem.
Also do you think increasing the power to the solenoid would do anything? Inceasing the # in the factory setup? Not sure what its called but access it by holding down both buttons for 3 sec when it turns on.
I've never used an XValve. I've never tried a CF on/off in anything but a classic valve. But you should be able to try the CF on/off in the XValve. Follow the instructions for using the CF in an ReTro valve.Originally Posted by nevtangle
I would suggest using my recommened settings from the FAQ above. I know they worked with the CF on/off in a classic valve at 20bps fullauto. You're not likely walking the trigger faster than than.
I'll give the CF on/off a try if I can't fit enough shims in the ult to fix this. Also try the settings above. I'm hoping the settings take care of this problem. If not I'm affraid I'm stuck.Originally Posted by hitech
Ok I didn't get very good results with the seetings at:Originally Posted by hitech
15 - 20
Fd - 50
Fn - 20
So I started messing with the Fd setting and turned it up to 60. That seems to be the magic number! All the other settings work best as mentioned above. No more chuffing and the HF is performing great. Can't wait to see how it does on the field tomorrow.
Settings that are working for me:
15 - 20
Fd - 60
Fn - 20
Thanks for the help hitech you are the man!!!
I think I may have to update my recommened settings. Glad to hear it works.Originally Posted by nevtangle
I got a blade trigger from Luke. Installed it, turned on the frame and fired 2 shots. Every pull after that wouldn't fire even though the switch was clicking. The board was displaying the 20 BPS shot mode but didn't register FIRE when the trigger was pulled. I tried to turn it off and back on, but it wouldn't turn off. I disconnected the battery and waited for it to power down., reconnected the battery and tried to turn it back on. Nothing. I can't get it to turn on now. I even tried a new battery. Is the board fried? It worked great this past weekend. I shot 1 1/2 cases at the field and everything was great. Put the new trigger on it and now this.
That sounds like the switch is engaged (switch contacts inside the switch are making contact) when you power it on. I don't remember if lukes triggers have trigger stops. But if it does then the return stop is too tight. If they don't verify that there is a slight gap between the trigger back and the switch "button". If there is not then pull off the grip panels and loosen the screws that hold the switch in place and see if you can get a gap.
If it still doesn't power up try removing the switch (leave the wires attached and it plugged into the board) and make sure nothing is touching the contacts on the back of the switch and try powering it on. If that works then something is holding the switch closed enough to make contact (or the contacts on the back of the switch were somehow shorted). If not, well then I don't know...
Thanks once again hitech. It does have trigger stops so that sounds like the problem. I'll check to make sure I have a gap between the switch and the trigger stop. Other than that maybe a new switch?Originally Posted by hitech
BTW, you don't need a gap to make it work. You just need one to be SURE the switch is not making contact. Once you get it to power on you could adjust the stop to just a little before it fires.Originally Posted by nevtangle
If you have an ohm meter you could unplug the switch from the board and test it if if appears to be bad.
I'm thinking its a bad switch because even though there is no gap the switch isn't engaged. I'll have to test it I guess.Originally Posted by hitech
It doesn't seem to be the switch. I adjusted the stops so there was a gap - board won't turn on.Originally Posted by hitech
Took the switch out and left connected to the board - board won't turn on.
Took the switch apart to make sure the contact points weren't sticking. Checked the solder points for a short. The switch seems to be ok.
So what does this mean? The switch is definately not engaged when I try to turn the board on. It is still refusing to power up. I was really hoping it would be as simple as you said.
Could it have died from natural causes? I just don't know what could have fried this board. No moisture got in it and it went from working to not firing to not turning off, and now won't turn on.
I got it working!!! Disconnected the battery for over 15 min to reset the board and its working again. Hugh sigh of relief... thought my board was dead.
Glad to hear you got it to work. Maybe your experience will help others. I'll add it to the FAQ at the top if you don't mind.
Don't mind at all. This Hyperframe FAQ is great. Its helped me out a lot and I'm sure other will be able to benefit from it.Originally Posted by hitech
what aftermarket boards are compatible and small enough for the hyperframe?
I know that morlocks are, but size difference btw the morlock/minimorlock? Ive heard ppl used a predator nme board...any input would be appreciated
I don't have any experience with any aftermarket boards, sorry...
The Hyperframe does have a fair amount of room inside and uses a micro switch, so it should work with most aftermarket boards. But as I said...
I had a similar problem to nevetangles what i found was the problem was that the soldier leads on the board were very long and would short out against the frame on occasion, so i trimmed the down some with a pair of side cutters also used some plastic orings to prevent the screws holding the board down from backing out
Hey folks,I have an issue and am in search of help. Ok here is the situation. I recently acquired a used hyperframe sans centerflag on/off. Was informed by Dennis that I needed an RT on off with .670 on off pin. Acquired same. Installed on stock minimag valve with shocktech rear section. Valve has upgraded spring pack to accompany lvlX. When triggered using an allen wrench through the sear access hole in the frame, fires everytime. Using the trigger I only get a full shot every other pull. I had to sand the solonoid just to get the frame to shoot at all as there was oxidation on the plunger. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Disruptor; 07-30-2006 at 11:32 PM.
make sure the service settings on your hyperframe are correctOriginally Posted by Disruptor
it sounds like you need to send more power to the solenoid
consult the beginning of this thread for recommended settings
With the level 10 you will probably only be able to use the shortest spring with the RT on/off. A ULT is a much better option. You also need to make sure the solenoid is aligned properly. See the FAQ at the top for instructions.
Thanks for all the replies, does anyone know the settings for a stock board?
When I get into the program mode, all I get is the setting for 5 0* I have it set to 09, the highest setting allowed. Can anyone provde more information on getting to other settings?
My biggest issue is that it works fine on slow semi, but burtst , hyper, or long rapid strings is when I see the problem.
Last edited by Disruptor; 07-31-2006 at 10:46 AM.
There isn't much you can do with the stock board. Set the only number avaiable to the highest number. It controls the "energy" going to the solenoid. You can't control the dwell, etc.
hitech,Originally Posted by hitech
Just wondering why you said he would probably only be able to use the shortest spring w/ the lvl 10. I'm curious about this because I've heard this somewhere before and I've been using the longest spring. I'm wondering if this was causing a lot of my chuffing issues (which got a lot better with the new settings mentioned above) I still experience the occasional chuff here and there during rapid fire. I wonder if going to the red spring or the shortest spring would fix this completely? Can you shed some light on this for me?