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Thread: Hyperframe FAQ

  1. #61
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    The increased pressure required by the level 10 causes the pressure on the on/off pin to also increase. There isn’t much “extra” force available in the hyperframe solenoid. It’s running on the edge. The larger springs require more pressure, hence they don’t always work. Since every frame is different and every valve is different, some work better than others.

    But, to answer your question, yes, going to a shorted spring will likely reduce chuffing. When “tuning” the level 10 you should start turning up the velocity until it just fires. Chrono it. You need to be at least 20 fps lower than your target velocity. This is to allow for changes. If you are already at your target velocity it will not fire if you have to turn it down at all. If the regulated pressure drops at all, for any reason, it will not fire. Hope that makes sense. I believe this is covered in the level 10 installation instructions.


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  2. #62
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    alright i need some help.ive got a hyperframe and it works perfect.i know this because i took it all apart and i pushed a hex key against the solenoid and i fired and it released the solenoid and i can adjust everything from rof to shot count.only thing though is it onw fire my gun.my valve works perfect the sear is perfect ,im sure i just have to adjust the dwell.in the manual it says i can do that in service mode.how do i get itno service mode?also its not really a big deal but my lcd screen tends to only work on the bottom half of it.it usually goes back to normal with a few taps but if there is a way to fix that as well i would love to know.thx and sorry for the long post.

  3. #63
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    The manual should tell you how to get into service mode. If I remember right - you hold down both buttons at the same time. This should get you into service mode.

  4. #64
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    Hi. I need some help. Í´ve installed a new trigger frome luke and broked the pin, that holds the trigger (I know I´m stupid...). Does anybody know where I can get a new one?

  5. #65
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    Try posting in the BST section that you want to buy a trigger pin for the HF.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombola
    Hi. I need some help. Í´ve installed a new trigger frome luke and broked the pin, that holds the trigger (I know I´m stupid...). Does anybody know where I can get a new one?

    Try emailing Center Flag and see if they have any left. dennis@centerflagproducts.com

  7. #67
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    Can't let this thread die. It's full of too much valuable info.

  8. #68

    Troubles

    So I have a hyperframe, 13bps type. It cycles, no problem there. LThe problem i have is getting it to shoot on any of my mags. I have air valve, classic valve, retro, emag, and xvalves. It will trip the sear sometimes but not consistently...forget full auto. I have a level 10 bolt on the emag vavle and the xvalve with a ult kit. Any ideas?
    Last edited by redmagik; 12-06-2007 at 03:34 PM. Reason: added additional info

  9. #69
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    You need the centerflag on/off, or a ULT. Anything else and results are iffy. If you have a level 10 bolt in that thing even the centerflag on/off is iffy.

  10. #70

    on/off

    So...if i use the e or x valve with level 10...not a good idea. If I use the classic vavle I should try to hunt down a centerflag on/off? Wow...any ideas where to get that?

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by redmagik
    So...if i use the e or x valve with level 10...not a good idea. If I use the classic vavle I should try to hunt down a centerflag on/off? Wow...any ideas where to get that?
    A classic valve with the standard on/off will NOT work. Period. You would have to replace the on/off with the centerflag on/off (no idea if you can get one, try calling Centerflag) OR a ULT.

    The e or X valve will also require either the centerflag on/off OR a ULT, although rumor has it that with a level 7 bolt the RT style on/off does sometimes work.

    In either valve, you MAY be able to get it to work with a centerflag on/off and a level 10 bolt. The shortest spring from the level 10 kit is the only one that is likely to work. This is regardless of the valve (e, X or classic).

    A ULT has a much higher chance of working with a level 10 bolt. I've never heard of one not working, but...


  12. #72

    tHANKS

    Thanks HiTec for all the info. I love these forums

  13. #73

    Got it Working

    Sweet! got my hyperframe working. Has anyone tried a virtue board in a hyperframe? Or is the T-Board the best way to go?

  14. #74
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    Glad to hear it works now.

    I don't know enough about either board, but either board will require a custom installation, it won't be a drop in swap. In either case, you need to have that large cap that is on the top of the hyperframe board. It is basically required to be able to power the solenoid with a 9 volt battery.


  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by redmagik
    Sweet! got my hyperframe working. Has anyone tried a virtue board in a hyperframe? Or is the T-Board the best way to go?
    Search this forum for a post done by someone that bought a SD board and used it in a Hyperframe.

    The user that did it reported a COMPLETE drop in replacement.

    Cant get much better than that.

    ~ P8nt
    _______________________
    Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard

  16. #76
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    Ok I have a question for everyone. I have one of the origional hyperframes and I put in a new fresh 9v and the darn thing will not turn on. the old battery that I pulled out was working but slow. I am wondering if the solder from the battery connector is failing. any ideas?

  17. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBlack
    Ok I have a question for everyone. I have one of the origional hyperframes and I put in a new fresh 9v and the darn thing will not turn on. the old battery that I pulled out was working but slow. I am wondering if the solder from the battery connector is failing. any ideas?
    You mean the solder on the board for the connector?

    I dont think it would as it has small pins that drop into holes on the board and then are soldered in place. You (or someone else that owned it) would have to pry on that connector really hard to pull it out. You would notice damage like that without fail.

    If you ment the connector on the battery snap that connects to the board,... its a pressed/crimped fitting. So I would check it, but rule it out rather quick.

    The only thing I would check though is the battery snap itself. Over time, they tend to get weak from normal plugging and un-plugging of the battery. Exspecially if you are doing a mod and have to test it often. I would ditch the snap you have and re-solder in a new one if it looks too old or worn.

    If you have some money to spend (no more than $100) I would HIGHLY recommend contacting Damon of Scenario Dreams for getting a better board.

    If you ever wanted to have your body (ULE if you have one) drilled for eyes, the board would come redy for them, and he sells them as well in just about every color.

    Im going to give a look and see which one might drop in,... somewhere on here someone did this mod. Pretty simple if I remember correctly.

    If you do go this route and you find parts wont match (say the connector for the clapper noid isnt the same) post back on here and shoot me a PM. I had a copy of the Hyperframe noid made but with the new 2-pin connector found in all the newer boards. (pictured below is a scan of actual part)

    ~ P8nt


  18. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by redmagik
    Sweet! got my hyperframe working. Has anyone tried a virtue board in a hyperframe? Or is the T-Board the best way to go?

    Hey Guys!

    I got board today so I tackled this hyperframe/board replacement issues.

    Go here to see the guide.

    ~ P8nt

  19. #79
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    I like that.. I might just do that instead of messing with the stock board and trying to contact CenterFlag.

    http://www.google.com/products?q=APE...firefox-a&um=1
    I just want to make sure that this is the correct one that you are talking about.

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBlack
    I like that.. I might just do that instead of messing with the stock board and trying to contact CenterFlag.

    http://www.google.com/products?q=APE...firefox-a&um=1
    I just want to make sure that this is the correct one that you are talking about.

    Yep. They all look like the ones I used.

    One thing I will say though,.. I have bought a few boards from APE. Jim and his crew have service that is top notch. I have bought 1 board for another gun through a dealer and it didnt work due to a bad part. Jim ate the cost of shipping both ways and had a new board to me in less than a week.

    You buy from APE,.. you will be taken care of. Thats just how they do business.

    If you happen to get the Pro-E board instead of the A-5 version,.. the guide is still the same.

    Good Luck!

    ~ P8nt

  21. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by p8ntbal4me
    You mean the solder on the board for the connector?

    I dont think it would as it has small pins that drop into holes on the board and then are soldered in place. You (or someone else that owned it) would have to pry on that connector really hard to pull it out. You would notice damage like that without fail.

    If you ment the connector on the battery snap that connects to the board,... its a pressed/crimped fitting. So I would check it, but rule it out rather quick.

    The only thing I would check though is the battery snap itself. Over time, they tend to get weak from normal plugging and un-plugging of the battery. Exspecially if you are doing a mod and have to test it often. I would ditch the snap you have and re-solder in a new one if it looks too old or worn.

    If you have some money to spend (no more than $100) I would HIGHLY recommend contacting Damon of Scenario Dreams for getting a better board.

    If you ever wanted to have your body (ULE if you have one) drilled for eyes, the board would come redy for them, and he sells them as well in just about every color.

    Im going to give a look and see which one might drop in,... somewhere on here someone did this mod. Pretty simple if I remember correctly.

    If you do go this route and you find parts wont match (say the connector for the clapper noid isnt the same) post back on here and shoot me a PM. I had a copy of the Hyperframe noid made but with the new 2-pin connector found in all the newer boards. (pictured below is a scan of actual part)

    ~ P8nt

    I got it working... for some reason after about 10 to 15 minutes the panel reads LO and ULO. but the u flashes. Would this be due to XICON Capacitor failing or some other reason?

  22. #82
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    LO = Locked

    ULO = Unlocked

    I think that has to do with the tourney jumper or the timing menu in the beginning when you first turn it on.

    Ill have to re-check.

    ~ P8nt

  23. #83
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    It's nice to see that there is an easy to install replacement board for the hyperframe. Makes those hyperframes with the old boards look like better deals.


  24. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by p8ntbal4me
    LO = Locked

    ULO = Unlocked

    I think that has to do with the tourney jumper or the timing menu in the beginning when you first turn it on.

    Ill have to re-check.

    ~ P8nt

    How far did you get on this so far?

  25. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBlack
    How far did you get on this so far?
    With the Hyperframe off, press and hold the bottom button. While still holding the bottom button and before it turns on press and hold the top button. Wait. It will turn on in service mode. When you are done making your changes, press and hold the bottom button to turn it off.

    According to Centerflag,... it will display locked if you attempt to change modes when you have your board locked. (obviously)

    They also metioned that with there being a 13 and 20 bps board, you may have different setting values and options. The service menu may reflect something other than what is posted here.

    That flashing thing someone was describing,.. might be a "pulse" in the software or a part going bad. (what they said)

    If you can adjust the FD, FN on your board,... do so as described in this link thread post #1

    I know thats not a lot of help,.. but thats what they gave me to report.

    ~ P8nt

  26. #86
    Last edited by sdawg; 03-31-2008 at 11:57 AM.

  27. #87
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    Cause I can


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