Hyperframe Setup

[cgrieves]

I've finally got hold of my Hyperframe (secondhand of course) for the Budget-O-Mag and I thought I'd share my experience of setting it up.

My setup is a classic mag, warp left body, E-mag valve running air. Level 10 fully broken in and using longest spring, carrier 2 and 2 shims.

Initially I tried using the centerflag .750 on/off pin, centerflag on/off bottom o-ring, E-Mag quad top-O-ring and normal outer top o-ring. The Hyperframe wouldn't fire more than 1 shot even with the solenoid power set to 9. Bolt wasn't sticking though as far as I can tell. The gun would fire by pressing a tool into the sear recess on the frame, but it took quite a force to get it to fire.

Next, I tried my normal RT .740 pin, normal twin round o-ring setup in the on/off top, and the centerflag on/off bottom o-ring. Success! The 'frame fires reliably with the solenoid power at level 6 and the air input pressure at 600psi. I fired off a few hundred shots then checked the bolt for wear and chipping- nothing apparent, although I will keep a close eye on this.

This tallies with my initial use of the E-Mag valve with a mechanical trigger. The only way I could get any useful reactivity from the trigger (no runaways) was by filing my on/off pin to .740 and setting input pressure at 850psi. I guess my valve has tolerances that dictate that setup, which goes to show that every valve is different.

I was expecting the quad on/off top o-ring to lessen the sear force required to fire the marker, but in fact it seemed to do the opposite. Not sure why that might be..

Next I intend to try the centerflag .770 pin just to see what results I get. I also intend to use two 9v NIMH rechargeable battery's in my warp, but install a regulator to bring that down to around 10 volts and use that to power both the warp and Hyperframe. That should give the Hyperframe a bit of extra oomph, and also increase battery life.

[sniper1rfa]

a word of warning, you will probably overdraw your batteries that way, making them die after fewer cycles (if the whole setup even fires...). Also, doubling the voltage by putting the two batteries in series does nothing to increase battery life. They will last just as long as one 9V will, only with twice the voltage. Putting the batteries in parallel will double the life, and keep the voltage the same.

stick with a battery in the frame, and batteries in the warp.

...or, buy one of my 12V warp batteries which CAN run both the warp and the hyperframe...

[cgrieves]

Yeah, makes sense. Believe it or not I actually have a degree in digital electronics but to be honest I can't remember even the basics!

Actually I just realised AGD make a 10V battery pack for the warp- that would do the trick: provide the extra oomph for the Hyperframe and warp, but without the regulator. Have people had success running a Hyperframe off 12 volts?

[sniper1rfa]

hehehe, it seems to me like the series vs. parallel is the one people forget the most.

the 10.8V pack from AGD is actually from AGD Europe. thy dont sell them in the US. Only I do. monopoly!

i can do 10.8V or 9.6V as well, if you want one. Honestly, i think even the 9.6V would give a noticable increase in power, considering the hyper was designed for alkaline 9Vs, which can barely sink the current the solenoid draws anyway.

i dont know about running a hyper on 12V, but i think you would probably burn out the solenoid. Its run high as it is (its a 6V coil, i think). Ever notice how unbelievably hot it gets?

[cgrieves]

Hitech- you might be interested in this......

Been playing around with the hyperframe today. While the trigger pull is acceptable on a stock 'frame, I decided to try an alternative microswitch (as did you). I chose the lightest microswitch I could find at our electronics store, it's labelled NTE on one side, then on the other it's labelled what looks like "RU" backwards with the spine of the "R" and "U" shared, and a code E112765H.

I soldered the connections, rounded the ends of the mounting screws as per your FAQ. What was interesting is that once the top screw was fully in, as I screwed in the bottom screw, the switch face actually started to press in towards the trigger. So much so that when the screw is fully in, the switch is already "switched" and the trigger doesn't function. The reason for this (I think) is that the switch face, ie the flat surface around the switching point, protrudes slightly further out than the stock Centerflag switch. This means that the switch doesn't exactly fit....

When this happened I realised that I could use the lower switch screw as a firing point adjuster..... and with the screw unscrewed about 2mm from fully-in, the microswitch is just "unswitched". With this setup the trigger is exactly how I want it.... light, less than half a millimetre of throw, and sensitive enough to be able to walk the trigger with ease. And the best thing about is that the firing point is completely adjustable!

[chizle97]

hey dude those batteries are totaky sweet I posted a shameless plug at pbauthority.com cause they are that cool. but alas im poor and only have a battrey powered hopper. I love hyperframes though so that explains me lurking in this forum. but all this electric stuff confuses me. Im good with metal and wood. Wires scare me.

[hitech]

Thanks for the trigger job update. I still haven't tried it yet. Since my brother has the hyperframe I'm not as motivated to get it done. I might play around with it this weekend.


Also, I would NOT try to run the hyperframe at 12 volts! It has a very large cap. that is only rated at 10 volts. Caps. can be nasty things when pushed past their limits.