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Thread: Z.I.P.P. bolt that creats "M" effect?

  1. #1
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    Z.I.P.P. bolt that creats "M" effect?

    I was just checking out the July issue of APG and saw an article about this Z.I.P.P. 2K Cycleflow bolt for cockers and angels. Now, I know this is a magazine laden with marketing ploys, but the idea still seemed thought provoking. The idea is the bolt has three holes on the bottom, as opposed to an evenly spaced venturi style. Though the article makes no claims as to what degree the magnus effect takes place, it does mention it as a "flatline" bolt.

    /dodge marketing bashes

    Does anyone have any experience with one of these or know anything about them?

    My guess is IF backspin does occur, it would not be enough, and still render the balls under the vortex effect.
    /shrug

    CraigEgg
    Last edited by Bubonic Plauge; 05-13-2003 at 03:25 PM.

  2. #2
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    sounds like the undertow bolt, which sounds like bolts made about 10 years ago. When my friend tests his undertow, we'll see if it works
    WARNING!: This cat is not an Al Roker imposter


  3. #3
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    undershot

    I actually run a cooper t undershot bolt on my cocker. Its got a centre cut hole and a hole cut on the bottom. The only reason i run it is because its a spare parts cocker and it was the only bolt i could find.

    From my experience, the bolt shoots no better or worse than any other. It is completely unnoticeable, hell, i didn't even know what the bolt was until some oldie pointed it out to me.

  4. #4
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    I want to be a cowboy.

    Good Sellers/Nice people so far:CYPRES0099, hawpunch

  5. #5
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    Any straight-barreled backspin system requires a loose barrel so that the friction doesn't eliminate the spin.

    Have you guys tried your backspin bolts with uber-loose paint?

    My Trading Feedback

    "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."
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  6. #6
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    Years ago i tried some All Star through a lapco bigshot and my undershot bolt. Velocity was too eratic over the chrono and my experiment ended there.

  7. #7
    -=Squid=- Guest
    There is no way for it to add enough backspin to increase range. It may however up the velocity, increasing range, therefor increasing air efficiency.

  8. #8
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    you mean decrease air efficency right?
    The proud owner of
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  9. #9
    -=Squid=- Guest
    Originally posted by shinobidice
    you mean decrease air efficency right?
    No. If it increases range, the velocity goes up, so you can turn the velocity down, therefore not requiring as much gas to propell the ball.

  10. #10
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    Have you guys tried your backspin bolts with uber-loose paint?
    Thats the most important part.

    I've used the Cooper-T bolts in cockers, sterlings, and VM68s.

    THey work IDENTICAL to the flatline, as long as the paint is undersized. So, if your barrels is .690, then you need to use .682-684 paint.

    The Cooper-T bolt is patented I think? It might explain why its the only real flatline-type bolt on the market.

    It totally baffles me why anyone why buy a flatline barrel for a cocker when they can just use the bolt.

    Nick

  11. #11
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    undertow knock off....and yes...the undertow works as stated and is worth every penny.

  12. #12
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    Originally posted by -=Squid=-


    No. If it increases range, the velocity goes up, so you can turn the velocity down, therefore not requiring as much gas to propell the ball.
    Doesn't work that way... conservation of energy.

    A 300 fps ball with spin has more energy than a 300fps ball w/o spin. That extra energy translates to some range...

    If you used the energy for spin... and used it towards velocity... you'd be shooting over 300fps.

  13. #13
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    i could be wrong here, but isnt deep blue for dispelling hearsay, and marketing? to me it sounds like this thread has done nothing towards prooving or disproving this (these) products. could someone who owns or can borrow one of these bolts test it with different sized paint/barrels (from small/small to large/small to small/large and large/large) using a chronograph to record velocties and then measure to the ball for distance.... now their are still many factors (like wind, elevation, humidity and whatnot) that this is not taking into effect, but that expariment i proposed will give a pretty good idea if this (these) work or are bunk. but any i heard/my friend told me statements DO NOT BELONG IN DEEP BLUE head on over to the main forum with them.
    Last edited by hardr0ck68; 07-06-2003 at 03:14 PM.
    Tom was the last of a now extinct breed, a breed of players who build a community, a breed of owners who gave to the sport never taking more than what they deserved. I hope to see you at the feild again some day....

  14. #14
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    Originally posted by Miscue


    Doesn't work that way... conservation of energy.

    A 300 fps ball with spin has more energy than a 300fps ball w/o spin. That extra energy translates to some range...

    If you used the energy for spin... and used it towards velocity... you'd be shooting over 300fps.


    I'll agree that speaking purely from an energy stand point, the spinning ball has more energy. But how on earth does this translate into range?

    300 fps with or without spin is still a 300 fps shot. Any gained range would only be due to aerodynamic forces if the spin is correct (otherwise it will hook or slice).

    It is NOT a tranfer of enregy to distance.

  15. #15
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    I'll agree that speaking purely from an energy stand point, the spinning ball has more energy. But how on earth does this translate into range?
    Magnus Force-

    This is the same exact effect used to make golf balls go farther, and baseballs curve.

    A spinning sperical object generates "magnus" effect, which has 2 properties.
    1- "pull". For a backspin, it pulls away from gravity
    2- "less drag". Which means farther range.

    The only barrel that does this is the Flatline.
    The only bolt that does this is the CooperT bolt.
    Both are patented. (The undertow does NOT do this).

    I bought my backspin bolt in 1992, and used it for 10 years on a variety of guns. I probobly have more experience then anyone. What I've learned is that it increases maximum range about 100 feet. It also increases point-blank range, but reduces accuracy, so effective range is decreased.
    Its also more paint senstive, which makes it unsutable for tournaments.

    -Nick

  16. #16
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    Originally posted by jinxed


    Magnus Force-
    Which agrees with my point. I probably wasn't too clear.

    It isn't the spin energy is not transfered into more range.

  17. #17
    What about the Werm bolt (or whatever it is) for Impy's. My freind has one and he thinks its "pimp".

    Just wondering if those have a patend on them yet. When I shot it with a 2 tone ball, you could see it backspinning, and it did seem to work to some extent. I forgot what type of barrel he was using, must have been a larger bore.

  18. #18
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    Both the werm and undertow don't generate enough backspin to generate magnus. There is a certain threshold in order to create lift and reduce drag.

    But, they don't claim to create magnus. They claim to only produce a small backspin in order to create a gyroscopic force. The theory is that a slight backspin would make the ball less likely to curve. Kinda like a rifled bullet. But bullets need an extremely fast spin to stablize, to it seems like alot of bunk.

    I've never seen the ZIPP though. But from what I've read, it seems like an exact copy of the CooperT better bolt.

    Nick

  19. #19
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    ZIP IT BOLTS

    WE DESIGNED THE BOLTS TO GIVE SOME LIFT AND XTRA VELOCITY.NOT BACKSPIN.It is almost impossible to give a paintball backspin.We have sold a lot of the Zip it bolts for the Angels and have had no problems with any of them being bad or not doing what we said they wouldd do.We only have made a handfull of Autococker bolts made,because they were to hard to make.because they were to long to machine.In the future they will be assembled in three pieces's.So we can make them for all cockers by changing the middle part to compinsate for the different lenghts.We have also made a Impulse bolt that is going to be better than any bolt made.We did some testing on it.We shot a hopper and 2 pods of paint with it and it only used about 500 to 600 psi.It also os very consistant at the chrono.This is achieved by the design of the air inlet.The hole is cut at a 45 degree angle to give the air a pamped effect.This helps in making the air flow much smoother.Thats why it is so consistant at the chrono.We think the holes in the bottom of the bolt does very little,but we think they do cause the air to be not so turbulant when shooting .????Al we know is If Rocky Cagnoni will use one of our bolts ,we must be doing something right.Rocky is the first baller to try out our bolts.He usd one at the last 2 world cup events.He also said ,and i quote"THIS IS THE MOST AIR EFICIENT BOLT I HAVE EVER USED"end quote...Our website has been down for some time know before the article came out in APG.It will be up soon.We have lcd and irs bolts in stock.And some pre 2000 cocker bolts.As for the under tow bolts ,never seen one so ours can not be a knock off,thank you.

    James Martin
    z.i.p.p.
    IF YOU CANT HIT IT, YOU MUST Z.I.P.P. IT....
    www.regulatorsoutpost.com
    www.theangelguy.com
    www.myzippit.com
    I GOT MY PIC TAKEN WITH THE ANIMAL PAINTBALL GIRLS AT WORLD CUP!!!WOW!!!A YELLOW JAKET,A BUTTERFLY,A FAIRY AND A BEETLE...

  20. #20

    Re: ZIP IT BOLTS

    Originally posted by GRAY SKULL
    WE DESIGNED THE BOLTS TO GIVE SOME LIFT AND XTRA VELOCITY.NOT BACKSPIN.It is almost impossible to give a paintball backspin.We have sold a lot of the Zip it bolts for the Angels and have had no problems with any of them being bad or not doing what we said they wouldd do.We only have made a handfull of Autococker bolts made,because they were to hard to make.because they were to long to machine.In the future they will be assembled in three pieces's.So we can make them for all cockers by changing the middle part to compinsate for the different lenghts.We have also made a Impulse bolt that is going to be better than any bolt made.We did some testing on it.We shot a hopper and 2 pods of paint with it and it only used about 500 to 600 psi.It also os very consistant at the chrono.This is achieved by the design of the air inlet.The hole is cut at a 45 degree angle to give the air a pamped effect.This helps in making the air flow much smoother.Thats why it is so consistant at the chrono.We think the holes in the bottom of the bolt does very little,but we think they do cause the air to be not so turbulant when shooting .????Al we know is If Rocky Cagnoni will use one of our bolts ,we must be doing something right.Rocky is the first baller to try out our bolts.He usd one at the last 2 world cup events.He also said ,and i quote"THIS IS THE MOST AIR EFICIENT BOLT I HAVE EVER USED"end quote...Our website has been down for some time know before the article came out in APG.It will be up soon.We have lcd and irs bolts in stock.And some pre 2000 cocker bolts.As for the under tow bolts ,never seen one so ours can not be a knock off,thank you.

    James Martin
    z.i.p.p.
    If Rocky uses it, then it must be good I wonder where he hides his gun dyno?

    -Calvin
    From a poster at PB Nation:

    ""Jim, back to your cave. Bob Long is on the batphone..."

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  21. #21
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    Hmm. Sorry, but some quote supporting unsubstantiated claims doesn't cut it in Deep Blue.

    If they really work let's see some supporting data.

    I'll accept they do nothing bad, but I am very sceptical they do anything what-so-ever that's benificial.

    Deep Blue demands Data!

  22. #22
    honestly, if you want to clear this whole mess up, you should take an angel, and bothe the zip and a another bolt with the same flow characteristics and test them both. and to make the test as accuret ( really bad spelling) as possible simply fire a loader of shots, change bolts, and fire another loader of shots. If you really want to get it down then try using a large bore barrel and some small paint like severe or evil.

    aut

  23. #23
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    Yes... but if companies started doing side-by-side tests to prove there claims..... well... Many would be out of business. *cough* smart parts *cough*

    The basic nature of paintball is a very hype-driven atmosphere. Maybe the zip bolts work, but he says the CooperT ones don't, which I HAVE tested against normal bolts, and they work fabulous (under ideal conditions).

    Nick

    Don't Support Paintball Nazis

    Boycott Smart Parts

  24. #24
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    CHECK THIS OUT

    If you can find the issue of ACTION PURSUIT GAMES Magazine there is an article about mid ways of the magazine on our bolts...Which i might say was a very good article/testing.Or you can call Mondo at ANIMAL PAINTBALL and ask him how well they work.I almost forgot the issue.JULY of 2003 APG
    Last edited by GRAY SKULL; 09-14-2003 at 12:47 AM.

  25. #25
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    YOu know a hopper and 2 pods of paint if real indepth r&d testing...

    -Robert
    Serving AGD customers since 93, wishing I could beat some common since into some of them about 5 hrs later.


  26. #26
    Originally posted by RobAGD
    YOu know a hopper and 2 pods of paint if real indepth r&d testing...

    -Robert
    Rob, what are you talking about? We all know how serious and "in-depth" AGD is about testing stuff :\ Oh wait, I forgot, I can call Mondo...

    -Calvin

  27. #27
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    test done on our bolt, its long

    NEW CYCLEFLOW BOLT
    Overall Impressions:
    I purchased the bolt directly through James, the owner of Z.I.P.P. and the creator of the bolt. He gave me several color choices to pick from: yellow, blue, red, green, black, etc. I’m a huge fan of yellow and although it doesn’t match my black LCD I can’t go against my passion for yellow.
    The bolt pin was snuggly drilled; it had no wobble, no wiggle and aligned perfectly with my ram stroke when adjusted properly. This is not a custom fitted bolt so it slipped inside my breech just nicely.

    Field Test:
    I allowed myself 4 different days to do the testing, each day having different weather conditions, different paints but all these tests were performed in the same marker. I would shoot 2500rds over a period of 4 days, which encompassed a Saturday & Sunday of two straight weekends. At every chrono string performed during the day, I would reinsert my standard bolt, readjust the ram stroke and snap ring to compare chrono consistency.

    Equipment:
    The bolt was fitted to a 2001 Black LCD, with an SS hammer. I run my Angel A.I.R. through my Cobra gas thru grip, at 389psi to achieve approximately 280fps. I run a 12v Revolution loader with Intellifeed, however no “rotation” mod is done. Also the ‘standard’ paddles have been replaced with the JMJ Impellers. I also used an Adrenalin High Rise for my feed tube passage. The breech knob is a standard one found on all Angels, set finger tight. Unfortunately my marker has been used extensively already so I was able to show wear on the inside of the breech. I used the following paint selections:
    2500 rounds of Diablo Hellfire
    2500 rounds of Nitro Duck
    2500 rounds of Team Colors (winter fill)
    2500 rounds of RP Marbalizers (advantage shell)

    Each paintball was matched properly to my corresponding bore insert on my freak barrel set. I used the following inserts:
    .685 for Hellfire
    .689 for Nitro Duck
    .691 for Team Colors
    .6875 (stock barrel) for the Marbalizers

    Day One:
    The first day onto the field was at 9:15am and my “test” lasted until approximately 11:55am. I tested the Nitro Duck paint first, and varied my shooting rhythm and ‘angle of attack.’ I hand picked 100rds for optimum performance and made sure they were kept at 67.5 degrees prior to being put into my hopper and readied. The present temperature outside was 44 degrees, winds out of the NW at 5mph and a relative humidity of 55%.
    Each ball was run through the hopper twice to ensure the feed rate was sufficient and that the loader system would not affect performance for the test. At 9:22am I chrono checked my marker at 280fps, with an input pressure of 385psi. My LPR pressure checked in at about 88psi. I unloaded the 100 paintballs as fast as I could… my MROF set at 14 and my Dwell at 15 to compensate slightly for the colder weather. No breaks on the bolt face, no breaks in the barrel.
    I then had another bag of preselected paintballs, however these were kept at 75.6 degrees prior to being put into the hopper. My bore insert was not changed. I lowered my dwell to 14 and my MROF to 13. I emptied my hopper at 7bps and recorded no bolt face breaks and 3-barrel breaks. Upon further review it was confirmed that no breaks were the result of the bolt, most likely due to a barrel insert issue.
    I then went for a more extensive ‘field test.’ I loaded up my hopper with 173 paintballs that had been left in the garage for 3 months and were odd shaped, dimpled, and no where near optimum quality. They had been stored for at least 2 months in sub 50-degree temperature and were most likely exposed to moderate humidity or dry cold air. I varied my shooting from 12bps to 5bps, shot on the run, on the slide, and at 40-60 degree angles both on the run and stationary. I recorded 2-barrel breaks, and one bolt face break. It was difficult to determine how the paintball broke on the bolt face, as there was a slight residue on the bolt face, in the chamber area and more extensive residue inside the insert. However, the bolt did not chop a single paintball.
    For the next half hour I used my gun at optimum settings: 12bps, 15 dwell (once again due to colder weather) and unloaded approximately 1500 paintballs at various angles. After the first 500 the marker was chronographed and my FPS had raised 4fps to approximately 285fps. I lowered my AIR input pressure by 6psi, to 379psi and recorded a 279fps chrono reading. After 1500 paintballs I recorded 2 barrel breaks with the older paint, 1-barrel break with the room temperature paint and zero barrel breaks with the warmer temperature paint. However, my bolt face break ratio was still 1 out of 1873. Might I also add that the one “break” did not prevent me from continuing my firing string at the moment it occurred.
    I loaded up another 250 paintballs (two hoppers of 125, one of the room temp. paint and the other of the warmer temp. paint) and now boasted a 1 out of 2123 ratio. I packed up my gear and went home. I recorded 5 different “chrono” strings, each of which was 4 shots and 2 clearing shots for each string. The bolt showed minor to no wear on the breech (from what I could tell) and on the actual bolt.

    Test One: 280fps @ 385psi, LPR 88psi, Dwell 14 & MROF 13.
    Test Two: 279psi @ 379psi, LPR 88psi, Dwell 15 & MROF 12.

    Early Morning String: 281, 281, 279, 282. (+3/-3) 385psi input
    Mid Morning String: 276, 277, 276, 276 (+1/-1) 379psi input
    Mid Morning String (2): 285, 279, 278, 283 (+6/-6)* 386psi input
    End String: 280, 279, 281, 282 (+3/-3) 384psi input

    Early Morning String: 274, 271, 268, 277 (+9/-9) 385psi input
    Mid Morning String: 277, 278, 273, 280 (+5/-5) 379psi input
    Mid Morning String (2): 288, 280, 276, 281 (+12/-12) 386 input
    End String: 274, 278, 290, 267 (+23/-23) 384psi input
    *AIR output regulated

    Day Two:
    The second day onto the field was at 1:40pm and my “test” lasted until approximately 3:25am. I tested the Team Color paint second, and varied my shooting rhythm and ‘angle of attack,’ once again. I hand picked 100rds for optimum performance and made sure they were kept at 65.8 degrees prior to being put into my hopper and readied. The present temperature outside was 52 degrees, winds out of the S at 4mph and a relative humidity of 37%.
    Each ball was run through the hopper twice to ensure the feed rate was sufficient and that the loader system would not affect performance for the test. At 1:53pm I chrono checked my marker at 273fps, with an input pressure of 378psi. My LPR pressure checked in at about 90psi. I unloaded the 100 paintballs as fast as I could… my MROF set at 16 and my Dwell at 14 readjusted for variable results. No breaks on the bolt face, 2 breaks in the barrel.
    I then had another bag of preselected paintballs, however these were kept at 84.3 degrees prior to being put into the hopper. My bore insert was not changed. I lowered my dwell to 13 and my MROF to 12. I emptied my hopper at 9bps and recorded 1 clean bolt face breaks and 1-barrel break. Upon further review it was confirmed that the paint had swelled enough to where it was just too delicate for my low dwell and present ROF.
    I then went for a more extensive ‘field test,’ once again to be fair. I loaded up my hopper with 167 paintballs that had been left in a meat locker for 7 hours and were almost frozen solid. They had been stored at about 30 degrees for at least 3 hours. I varied my shooting from 11bps to 4bps, shot on the run, on the slide, and at 40-60 degree angles both on the run and stationary. I recorded zero barrel breaks, and one bolt face break. It was difficult to determine how the paintball broke on the bolt face, as there was no residue on the bolt face, in the chamber area and residue in the forward breech area. However once again, the bolt did not chop a single paintball.
    For the next half hour I used my gun at optimum settings: 12bps, 15 dwell (once again due to colder weather and now due to nearly frozen paint) and unloaded approximately 1500 paintballs at various angles. After the first 500 the marker was chronographed and my FPS had raised 2fps to approximately 275fps. I raised my AIR input pressure by 8psi, to 386psi and recorded a 277fps chrono reading. After 1500 paintballs I recorded 1 barrel break with the frozen paint, and zero barrel breaks with the warmer temperature paint. Now my bolt face break ratio was 2 out of 3740. Might I also add that the one “break” did not prevent me from continuing my firing string at the moment it occurred.
    I loaded up another 250 paintballs (two hoppers of 125, one of the frozen temp. paint and the other of the warmer temp. paint) and now boasted a 1 out of 3990 ratio. I packed up my gear and went home. I recorded 5 different “chrono” strings, each of which was 4 shots and 2 clearing shots for each string. The bolt did not show anymore wear on the breech (from what I could tell) and on the actual bolt.

    Test One: 273fps @ 378psi, LPR 90, Dwell 14 & MROF 16.
    Test Two: 277fps @ 386psi, LPR 90, Dwell 15 & MROF 12.

    Early Morning String: 275, 277, 277, 276 (+2/-2) 379psi
    Mid Morning String: 279, 277, 279, 281 (+4/-4) 382psi
    Mid Morning String (2): 293, 291, 291, 291 (+2/-2)* 398psi
    End String: 297, 297, 297, 294 (+3/-3) 408psi

    Early Morning String: 270, 272, 276, 277 (+7/-7) 379psi
    Mid Morning String: 274, 281, 288, 278 (+14/-14) 382psi
    Mid Morning String (2): 289, 298, 299, 287 (+12/-12)* 398psi
    End String: 292, 296, 295, 299 (+7/-7) 408psi
    *Pressure was purposely raised as the day went on. Higher fps ratings tested for chrono consistency and ball breakage.


    Oil Test:
    Between the second and third shooting session, a lapse of five days took place. The entire bolt was sprayed with Gold Cup lubricant and absorbed for 30 minutes then wiped dry. I let the bolt sit for another 30 minutes at 87.2 degrees to dry the bolt as well as attempt to simulate bolt swell.
    The bolt was then “re-installed” and the marker was cycled 2500 times at 390psi with no paint. The bolt never seized in the marker but showed slightly darker marks on the front quarter. Upon opening the breech the bolt clearly had swelled inside to impair movement but to enough to prevent.

    Day Three:
    The third day onto the field was the following weekend at 2:40pm and my “test” lasted until approximately 4:00pm. I tested the RP Marbalizer with the advantage shell and once again varied my shooting rhythm and ‘angle of attack.’ I hand picked 100rds for optimum performance and made sure they were kept at 68.1 degrees prior to being put into my hopper and readied. The present temperature outside was 55 degrees, winds out of the SE at 6mph and a relative humidity of 70%.
    Each ball was run through the hopper twice to ensure the feed rate was sufficient and that the loader system would not affect performance for the test. At 3:00pm I chrono checked my marker at 252fps, with an input pressure of 365psi. My LPR pressure checked in at about 89psi. I purposely decided to shoot a lower fps rating to show results in at a slower velocity, as some indoor fields have 250fps limits. I unloaded the 100 paintballs as fast as I could… my MROF set at 13 and my Dwell at 14 as compensation was not necessary. No breaks on the bolt face, 1 break in the barrel.
    I then had another bag of preselected paintballs, however these were kept at 55 degrees prior to being put into the hopper. My bore insert was not changed. I lowered my dwell to 12 and my MROF to 13. I emptied my hopper at 9bps and recorded no 1-bolt face break and zero barrel breaks. Upon further review it was confirmed that the break was a the result of the bolt, most likely due to the fact that my dwell was short abnormally low.
    I raised my dwell back to 14ms and then continued with my routine and went for a more extensive ‘field test.’ I loaded up my hopper with 191 paintballs that had been stored at room temperature but had been exposed to the atmosphere for 48 hours prior to testing. I varied my shooting from 14bps to 3bps, shot on the run, on the slide, and at 40-60 degree angles both on the run and stationary. I recorded 1-barrel breaks, and zero bolt face break. It was difficult to determine how the paintball broke in the barrel, however it was most likely due to a slight swollen paintball.
    For the next half hour I used my gun at optimum settings: 12bps, 14 dwell (no compensation for weather) and unloaded approximately 1500 paintballs at various angles. After the first 500 the marker was chronographed and my FPS had raised 2fps to approximately 255fps. I lowered my AIR input pressure by 7psi, to 357psi and recorded a 244fps chrono reading. After 1500 more paintballs I recorded 1-barrel break with the room temperature paint and zero barrel breaks with the warmer temperature paint. However, my bolt face break ratio was still 1 out of 1873. Might I also add that the one “break” did not prevent me from continuing my firing string at the moment it occurred.
    I loaded up another 250 paintballs (two hoppers of 125, each of the room temperature paint) and now boasted a 2 out of 6131 ratio. I packed up my gear and went home. I recorded 5 different “chrono” strings, each of which was 4 shots and 2 clearing shots for each string. The bolt showed no wear on the breech (from my last test, after the oil test) and on the actual bolt.

    Test One: 254fps @ 365psi, LPR 89psi, Dwell 14 & MROF 13.
    Test Two: 244psi @ 357psi, LPR 89psi, Dwell 12 & MROF 14.

    Early Morning String: 251, 249, 247, 249 (+4/-4) 364psi input
    Mid Morning String: 248, 247, 248, 246 (+2/-2) 360psi input
    Mid Morning String (2): 236, 235, 233, 236 (+6/-6) 352psi input
    End String: 277, 278, 277, 277 (+1/-1) 387psi input

    Early Morning String: 243, 246, 250, 239 (+11/-11) 364psi input
    Mid Morning String: 244, 249, 239, 244 (+10/-10) 360psi input
    Mid Morning String (2): 229, 234, 228, 241 (+12/-12) 352psi input
    End String: 268, 276, 277, 266 (+11/-11) 387psi input

    Day Four:
    The fourth and final day on the field was at 1:30pm and my “test” lasted until approximately 3:15pm. I tested the Diablo Hellfire and once again varied my shooting rhythm and ‘angle of attack.’ I hand picked 100rds for optimum performance and made sure they were kept at 73.6 degrees prior to being put into my hopper and readied. The present temperature outside was 44 degrees, winds out of the W at 3mph and a relative humidity of 70% with a slight drizzle.
    Each ball was run through the hopper twice to ensure the feed rate was sufficient and that the loader system would not affect performance for the test. At 1:45pm I chrono checked my marker at 283fps, with an input pressure of 390psi. My LPR pressure checked in at about 90psi. I concluded my testing session with arguable the best paint on the market, stored at optimum temperatures for optimum performance. I unloaded the 100 paintballs as fast as I could… my MROF set at 15 and my Dwell at 14 as I was looking to produce game time results. No breaks on the bolt face, zero breaks in the barrel.
    All 2500 Hellfire paints were kept at 73.6 degrees, away from any humidity, moisture or the atmosphere. I lowered my dwell to 13 and my MROF to 13. I emptied my hopper at 10bps and recorded zero bolt face breaks and zero barrel breaks.
    I raised my dwell back to 14ms and then continued with my routine and went for a more extensive ‘field test.’ I loaded up my hopper with 184 paintballs that had been stored at optimum temperature prior to testing. I varied my shooting from 13bps to 2bps, shot on the run, on the slide, and at 40-60 degree angles both on the run and stationary. I recorded 2-barrel breaks, and zero bolt face breaks. I’m thinking the result of the barrel breaks was because the paintball was just a bit too big for the insert. For the next half hour I used my gun at optimum settings: 12bps, 14 dwell (no compensation for weather) and unloaded approximately 1150 paintballs at various angles. After the first 800 the marker was chronographed and my FPS had stayed exactly at the same chrono string from the morning, 283/282fps. I didn’t adjust my AIR one bit and enjoyed the excellent consistency. After 950 more paintballs I recorded 1-barrel break with the paint. However, my bolt face break ratio was still 2 out of 8615. Might I also add that the one “break” did not prevent me from continuing my firing string at the moment it occurred.
    I loaded up another 250 paintballs (two hoppers of 125, each of the room temperature paint) and now boasted a 2 out of 8865 ratio. I packed up my gear and went home. I recorded 5 different “chrono” strings, each of which was 4 shots and 2 clearing shots for each string. The bolt showed a bit of wear on the breech (from my last test) and a few marks from the ball detente.

    Test One: 283fps @ 390psi, LPR 90psi, Dwell 14 & MROF 15.
    Test Two: 282psi @ 392psi, LPR 90psi, Dwell 13 & MROF 13.

    Early Morning String: 282, 284, 281, 285 (+4/-4) 390psi input
    Mid Morning String: 283, 283, 284, 283 (+1/-1) 391psi input
    Mid Morning String (2): 282, 283, 283, 282 (+1/-1) 392psi input
    End String: 280, 279, 277, 279 (+3/-3) 387psi input

    Early Morning String: 274, 279, 284, 271 (+13/-13) 390psi input
    Mid Morning String: 277, 282, 274, 285 (+11/-11) 391psi input
    Mid Morning String (2): 277, 286, 287, 281 (+10/-10) 392psi input
    End String: 266, 276, 269, 273 (+10/-10) 387psi input

    Why the Cycle Flow bolt?
    1. Lowers air input pressure
    2. Provides more stable chrono consistency
    3. 10-30 FPS jump
    4. Assorted colors
    5. Unique 4 hole offset design

    Backspin Bolt?
    When one looks at the design of the bolt you immediately notice the offset location of three holes on the bottom of the bolt face. So clearly the question raised is: “What do those do?” From my thorough testing I did not determine whether or not my bolt’s design created backspin or even increased distance. Although the bolt design did not deter performance and the entire bolt was machined extremely well.
    I could not visually see a distance gain per shot, but precision measurements were not taken per shot grouping. I will let you decide if the bolt really adds distance, it will at least spark a conversation with other players at the field!

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Posts
    129

    good test

    that's a very comprehensive and detailed test, and the honesty in your results is commendable. good job

    thanx
    trxtr

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