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Thread: serriouse issues

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    perth australia
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    Unhappy serriouse issues

    Here is my problem I have the gloriouse task of being in charge of our 52 Automags at our field how ever as of late thing r relly diteriating and we r having some serriouse issues that have become quite imbarrassing

    our main issues are:

    the sear does not engage the trigger ....we have found that banging the velocity nut very hard reengages the trigger however were braking many field strip screws and obviousley cant expect the clint to do this every 5 shots

    and secondly the guns freze terribly and continously admitibly we do use Co2 but they r doing it mor and more often

    thing u might want to know
    *very fine sandy fields
    *CO2
    *some toys are quite old

    plz help if this continues we will soon loze our competitive edge

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
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    naples, florida USA
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    it sounds like the sear is engaging, but the bolt is sticking. maybe try a different size pt spacer in them.

    as for the freezing, you could either run a vertical bottle on the mags or get anti-siphons installed for horizontal setups.

    are they level 7 mags? all mags after serial number cf3456 are level 7.

  3. #3
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    Oct 2000
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    Chicago
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    Qetuo,

    Welcome! Glad to have a representative from Down Under! I was going to sugest you upgrade to newer guns but since you are half way around the world I know that's a problem. The guns need longer power tube spacers and should work just fine. Put less CO2 in the tanks and that will help too.

    AGD

  4. #4
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    PS how about introducing yourself on the main forum and telling us what it's like to play paintball in Australia!

    AGD

  5. #5
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    Aug 2001
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    perth australia
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    the majority of our toys are series7

    we have been putting short spacers in to solve the issue of bolt stiking so obviously this is were we are going wrong as far as the syphon goes could u give me some insight on were to get more details.
    thanks very much

    i know its hard to answer but ruffly how often should u have to replace bolts and sears on heavily used mags??

  6. #6
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    Aug 2001
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    perth australia
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    i dont think my reply got posted so ill say it again

    most off our mags or series 7

    we have been using the shortes power tube spacers possible

    and could u plz tell me details about these syphons


  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Virginia Beach, VA.
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    66

    Post

    One way to help keep liquid co2 out of the gun is to use a long air line and coil it up like AGD show’s us in the video. I think the video is one of the best and also most over looked tools for automag owners.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    "The SC" (South Carolina)
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    A missing Rail Bushing will give you symptom number one as wlll.

  9. #9
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    Aug 2001
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    perth australia
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    yes an expansion chamber on all my toys would be nice as well however quite costly when u consider the number of mags we have

    and I have ensured that all the trigger frame bushells are in place and in tact

    we run all 20oz would u know exact weights to fill these to for best performance with mags?


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Toronto,Ontario,Canada
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    I like to fill to about 16oz on my 20oz tank when running my Mag on CO2, that gives me about 700 shots.



    ------------------
    Mykroft Holmes IV
    ------------------
    My Mags:
    CF11023, Classic Feed, 16" CP .689, 14" JnJ Stainless, Ring trigger, WGP Reg, Diamond Labs Ti Reg Adjuster.

    VV00614(Valve)/VV00423(reg), Black Teflon HR Powerfeed, 16" SP AA,14" JnJ Ceramic, AGD Intelliframe Blade, Benchy Crossfire cradle/on-off, black foregrip, Macroline.
    PMI 48/3K Preset HPA


    "There Ain't No Such Thing As A Free Lunch" R.A.Heinlein - 'The Moon is a Harsh Mistress'

  11. #11
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    Aug 2001
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    perth australia
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    whilst ur all being so hepfull i thought id hassle u some more

    The boss said buying 60 anti syphons is out of the question so im going to try under filling the bottles a little

    If my questions sound stupid plz forgive and let me know

    I have Several fairly badly scratched reg pistions, does this pose a major issue??

    when checking the pin in the on/off should it travel in and out easly or be rather tight seal like it is immeditly afte u replace the bottom white teflon?

    is there a way of telling if a reg seat is worn by looking at it (ours develop a ribed effect) or is it purley when the first shot is hot?

    thanks for all ur help Im sure u will hear more of my deleamers in the future

  12. #12
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    Oct 2000
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    Ok a few things. If you are running a bottom line then you HAVE to have an Anti Siphon or your going to have the freezing problem.

    The best way around that is to make all the guns use the front bottle Adapters. This way you avoid the problem of matching all the tanks to the guns with thier anti-siphon tubes.

    Make sure to have filters between the tank and the Gun AIR. If you have fine particulate matter sand and dirt then you will have more problem with velocity and other issues.

    If you are using 20oz tanks then only fill them to 12oz. You will have to fill them a bit more often but that will hell keep the liquid below the level of the valve.

    BTW your boss is a cheap wanker, Anti-Siphon tubes are CHEAP like less than $3.00 USD cost from a distributor.

    Here is a re post of a post of mine from another thread.

    ** Repost from another thread **

    Ok a few things here again

    #1 First shot hots happen because teh reg seat isnt making a perfect seal between the Reg Seat and the Reg Valve pin. This can be from debrits, 2 differnt seal marks ( happens when you try to re use a reg seat after you take the reg apart ) and off center cut holes.



    What I have here are some shots of Reg seats.

    Top Left is a new seat and right under that is how the Reg Pin sits on a new seat. and yougetthe idea how the impressions are made in the seat and a seal is made.

    The Red circle is the seal made by teh Reg Valve pin on the Reg Seat. It should be close to centered on the hole in the seat itself, like in this picture. The Gray ring is a seal make from the front half of the AIR valve, this isnt imporant, it's just there because when you look at the Seat you will see it.

    The Bad Seal so an off center. This is TYPICALLY from a Reg Seat where the hole was punched off center. The Blue Arrow is point to the area that will cause a problem. That thin seal area can cause a first shot hot problem because as pressure builds on the seal area it will seep more pressure pass the seal and you get a boomer. String shots are fine because there isnt time to build up excessive pressure.

    The next pic is a side view of a seat. The seat has started to deform filling the seal area with material. The Pink arrow is pointing to the dome itself and this can cause shoot down and eradic velocity.

    The next pic is a shot of a reg seat at 10x. I use a photoloop tyo look at seats to see if there is a problem with dirt and debrits in the dealing area. This can cause a complete lose of seal ( hots shots over the chrono ) and first shot hot. If you see this kind of pitting youhave to clean out your whole gun, and you air lines and maybe you CO2 tanks ( or N2 tanks if you have no filters. The is why we push for having filters on the guns. Those green arrows point to what would look like small dents, some are livable but other that are close to the red sealing area are cause for problems.

    The last pic has to differnt seal marks. The problem is that when you have over lapping seal rings thatleads to hots shots and first shot hots and leaking out the back. This is also why you should never reuse a Reg Seat. You will never get the same seal lineup twice. So when you break you back halves apart make sure to replace the Reg Seat.


    I hope this help you all diagnose your problems.

    **end repost**

    Now for the Pn/Off pin question. You want the pin to be a little snug and move smoothly in the teflon oring. If it get too work the pin will start wearing on the on/off bottom and causing leaks that will be hard to find and fix.

    Next the Bolt stick issue : try both AGD's and cphilip's suggestions. Play with your spacer lengths AFTER you make sure you still have your rail bushing.

    Reg Pistons - scratches to the sides wont effect much unless its causing burr that might impeed the pistons travle back and forth as the gun works. But that would have to be some really nasty gouges.

    Hope this helps.

    -Robert

    [This message has been edited by RobAGD (edited 08-28-2001).]

  13. #13
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    we have lots of reg seat with little dents in them do i have to take every guns lin of and clean em??

  14. #14
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    You cant fix them by cleaning they are soft parts and when they get like that they need to be replaced.

    -Robert

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