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Thread: BlackVCG's ULT Thread

  1. #121
    Join Date
    May 2001
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    ACTUALLY-

    The ULT solves one of the problems the Hyperframes had- the solenoid couldn't push the on/off pin.

    With the reduced pressure on the pin, the noid can now do it's job.

    And yes. You can play with the dwell a little on the Hyperframe to save some battery life.

    Originally posted by the larch
    Not really, The whole purpose of the ule is to lighten the trigger pull. Since with a hyper frame, your finger will no longer have a mechanical link to the on/off, it probably won't help at all. I would save up and shop for a retro, or x valve. Something that can recharge quicker so that you don't end up with any shoot down.

  2. #122
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    Yes, the ult trigger works with the x-valve quite nicely.
    I also suggest reading this thread. http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...hreadid=105646
    "[T]he evidence also strongly suggests that neither Billy nor Adam could have invented what is claimed."

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    on Smart Parts' patent claim, August 23rd, 2004, page 16.



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  3. #123
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    Oct 2003
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    short stroke 10 times a second? wtf?

    Does anybody else have this problem? with the ULT if i try to find a sweet spot i end up short stroking 10 times a second. not really sure what to do. for now i went back to the stock on/off. thanks for any suggestions

  4. #124
    I have a Xvalve, and when i installed my ULT, i removed my current on/off, and the oring at the bottom. When I first gas'ed up, it fired by itself, but then the on/off wouldn't reset, it'd say depress in the valve. The instructions said if it wouldn't fire keep adding shims to it does. So I added all 5 ULT shims, and same result. I then proceeded to remove 4 ULT shims, and add 2 LX shims, 2 ULT shims so that'd be equivalent to 6 ULT shims. Same thing. I added another shim and the same problem. I'm out of shims and ideas of what to do... Any suggestions?

    And I made sure that each time I installed the on/off that the holes were lining up 1 hole to the bolt, 1 to the back of the valve, and one each to each of the sides of the valve.
    Last edited by greenkill; 11-10-2003 at 08:26 PM.

  5. #125
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    Oct 2003
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    ROF

    I've ocasionally had my selenoid stick in my xmag. Sometimes I can fire it once in manual and it fires after that, but it has stuck before and not come loose. When I clean out my on/off pin it usually helps but it'll still do it from time to time. It seems like the ULT will help this, but will it cause any shoot-down at high ROF? I have a flatline reg and can turn up the pressure. I like the idea of the trigger pull in manual being closer to the pull in electronic mode, but don't want to sacrifice being able to shoot a rope.
    You think I'd learn by now; there's never an easy way- Morcheeba

  6. #126
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    Nov 2003
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    Rev or Evo II?

    If i get a X-valve and ULT to my classic, is it enough with at rev, or should i get an evo II?

  7. #127
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    i personally think a rev will be fine..
    i don't think i've had any problems...
    i've had a few chuffs but i think that was mainly from me short stroking
    an Evo would be overkill in this case(plus i don't like how they sit on the gun)i've been considering a reloader kit for my rev though...
    TheDuelist "The problem is that Tom has developed the VW Beetle of the paintball industry. It's almost too good to change and far too reliable."

  8. #128
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    OK, I've done some searching, and haven't really found the answer I'm looking for.

    from BlackVCG's original post

    This on/off assembly can fit but is NOT recommended for the following:

    E-Mags w/ double o-ring top
    Micro E-Mags
    MiniMag AIR Valves
    68Automag Valves
    Classic Automag Valves
    HyperMags
    SmartMags
    I understand that the ULT will not work well in the last four of the list because they don't have the RT effect and do not recharge fast enough. But what is the problem with the e-mag versions?

    Thanks for your time.
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  9. #129
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    the smaller pin allows for less flow which will slow down e/x-mags...
    the reason it doesn't affect rt/x valved guns is because they aren't as fast as e/x-mags

    im not totally clear how apparent this is, but that is the reason that was given.

  10. #130
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    Originally posted by Jerhew
    the smaller pin allows for less flow which will slow down e/x-mags...
    the reason it doesn't affect rt/x valved guns is because they aren't as fast as e/x-mags

    im not totally clear how apparent this is, but that is the reason that was given.
    So the problem isn't the valve itself, but the marker it is in? The old E-mag valve would be just fine in a mech marker?
    Last edited by headcase; 11-29-2003 at 04:45 PM.

  11. #131
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    well ya the old emag valve is just an rt valve...
    just as the x-mag valve is an x-valve found in the newer rt-pros(or upgraded classics/minis...etc)
    --technically speaking there really is only 2 different valves...ones with and without a reactive trigger--

    the problem is the rate of fire differences between mechanical and electronic markers

  12. #132
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    Originally posted by Jerhew
    well ya the old emag valve is just an rt valve...
    just as the x-mag valve is an x-valve found in the newer rt-pros(or upgraded classics/minis...etc)
    --technically speaking there really is only 2 different valves...ones with and without a reactive trigger--

    the problem is the rate of fire differences between mechanical and electronic markers
    The way I read the first post is that the only valves that are supposed to use the ULT are the newest aluminum valves regardless of application(understanding that the ULT shouldn't be used in E/X-Mags) My question is, what is the internal difference between the old E-mag(2 o-ring versions) and the X-valves. It seems apparent to me that the change was not just a different material

  13. #133
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    nope.
    as long as you have 2 o-rings(and aren't using it in an e/x-mag) you're good to go.
    other than material, there is no noteworthy difference between the two

    in fact i milled out my old 1 o-ring rt valve(basically making it a 2 o-ring valve) and dropped the ult in...works perfectly.

  14. #134
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    Jul 2002
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    jacksonville fl.
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    100

    ult problem

    just got my ult. should the on off pin go all the way through the on off support mine pin will not. also when i got the ult the pin was stuck in the on off support and would not come out.had to use pliers to get it out.please help

  15. #135
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    Oct 2003
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    Dallas area
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    I don't understand

    ok,
    the x valve is an aluminum rt valve, right? then why would the ult work well in a rt pro and not an xmag? I've seen an old rt shoot 20 bps. if the ult will restrict flow, then it woulnd't be a good upgrade for those either. someone please tell me what the hell is going on.

  16. #136
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    Regarding the issue of valves the ULT can be used in...

    All RT valves recharge the same. The problem with using the ULT in an E-Mag is the weight of the sear assembly and the slower recharge force of the ULT slows down the gun considerably. If you have a double-o-ring E-Mag valve in a regular mechanical gun, the ULT will be fine.

    So to clear things up:

    The ULT should NOT be used in-

    E-Mags running in E-Mode
    AIR valves

    It should be used in any mechanical gun with an RT valve that has a double o-ring on/off.


    tdogreb-

    The pin is not suppose to go all the way through the support piece. The support moves in unison with the pin. It was stuck to the pin because from the factory AGD puts a bit of loctite on the pin so you don't lose the pin support. Just be sure that when you take out the valve you don't drop the pin support piece and lose it.

    xmaglover-

    The RT-Pro valve was drilled for just one o-ring. The hole needs to be drilled deeper and not have a step in it so that the ULT will fit. Look at my pictures at the beginning of this thread and you'll see the difference. Just get it bored out by someone that can do it properly and the RTP valve will accept the ULT trigger.
    Last edited by BlackVCG; 11-29-2003 at 09:39 PM.

  17. #137
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    Thanks Black, that clears everything up for me.

  18. #138
    USAF-Flyboy with a Mag Guest
    ok the issue I'm having is when I put in the ult on/off I get a leak. It seems to be from the bolt not resetting because I can put my finger in and push the bolt back. If I put the original on/off back in the gun works fine...bolt resets and no leaks what-so-ever.

    My setup:
    classic w/xvalve
    68 4500psi pure energy tank output is 850 i believe.
    intelliframe
    ule body

  19. #139
    I need to know something, will this actually increase my speed or just response and will it have any lag(dwell time) because i know it lowers the reactivity of it. installing in Xvalve.
    Shocker=spyder that shoots out it's butt

    -Minimag w/ lvl10 and ult
    black ule body
    black blade intelli
    fatty aci foregrip
    12" dye ultralite

  20. #140
    does the ult actually increase speed or is it just response and will it have any "lag" or dwell time to it because I know it lowers the reactivity. Installing in Xvalve.

  21. #141
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    it lightens the trigger pull.
    as far as increasing your speed...
    well do you shoot faster with a lighter trigger?

    yes it also lowers the reactivity...there's no dwell or anything like that
    it's feel is comparable to a lightly sprung mech cocker hinge trigger..
    the lighter pull and lowered reactivity generally means that it's easier to shoot fast but also easier to short stroke
    and by the way, just like any trigger, you have to "learn it", which means you'll probably short stroke it occasionally until you get used to the feel

  22. #142
    ok im getting one, thanks for the help.

  23. #143
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    Oct 2003
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    New Orleans(Sugar baby)
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    Pardon my stupidity, but will a ULT work on a Classic grip frame.(I am eyeing that RTpro package but dont have the dough for a 100 Intelliframe.

  24. #144
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    Jul 2002
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    Buffalo NY
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    yes because the mod is to the on/off switch which is mounted in the valve body...it doesn't change any actual part on the triggerframe itself so it doesnt matter what frame you have

  25. #145
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    Apr 2003
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    Winthrop, MA
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    I hope this hasnt been asked yet, but I searched and couldnt find it. I got my RT Pro for christmas with included ULT. When I finally get my nitro filled, It is going full auto. I took out shims til it had one ULT shim in, and it still went fully auto. After a few shots, it stopped shooting and wouldnt shoot again. I have no idea whats wrong, I'm really agrivated as this seems to always happen to me, where my stuff never works, even when I dont tinker with it. If sum1 has a solution to this problem and could answer fast, I would appreciate it.

  26. #146
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    Make sure the field strip screw is tightened with an allen wrench.

  27. #147
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    kentucky
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    Yup. If it's just fingered tightened. that could happen.
    perhaps make sure the on/off is pushed in snugly. Is your tank a preset hpa?

  28. #148
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    Apr 2003
    Location
    Winthrop, MA
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    ya, the tank is preset at 850 psi. I'll try and see if its the feild strip screw, but I think I tightened it with a wrench before...

  29. #149
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    kentucky
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    did you by chance, mess with the trigger rod length? That could cause this problem also..maybe.

  30. #150
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    Apr 2003
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    Winthrop, MA
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    I didnt mess with the length... I think tightening the screw may have worked, but I will have to shoot it a little more to be able to tell.... thanks for the help so far

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