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Thread: BlackVCG's ULT Thread

  1. #211
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    This doesn't sound right at all. It's behaving like a classic valve, not a retro valve.

    Have you cleaned and oiled your valve and level 10 lately? It sounds to me like you might have some dirt issues.

    Another thought...try tightening the field strip screw a little more. If that doesn't help, then try it only hand tight. I've heard of some retros having issues if the valve is not lined up just right.
    The arrogance of other people annoys me. My own doesn't bother me a bit.

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  2. #212
    will it work on a 68 classic vavle

  3. #213
    sorry to bug you all again, but after reading around, i'm confused, i have the ULT installed, but i'm still getting trigger bounce, they wouldnt let me play today after i drove an hour to the field, because i had trigger bounce. had to use my stingray. was kind apissed
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  4. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by spadge67
    sorry to bug you all again, but after reading around, i'm confused, i have the ULT installed, but i'm still getting trigger bounce, they wouldnt let me play today after i drove an hour to the field, because i had trigger bounce. had to use my stingray. was kind apissed
    Did they ban all automags or just yours? How about Autocockers? Did they ban those, too? How about Tippmans?

    Mags have trigger bounce. It's tournament legal. The ULT has less bounce, but the air still has to push the trigger back. It's not spring loaded or electronic. It just sounds like the people at that field have problems.

    However, if you want to reduce the bounce some, try adding a shim to your ULT.

  5. #215
    no, my friend played all day with his a-5 r/t with no problem. there were several cockers there to. i'll try adding a shim, thanks.

  6. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by spadge67
    no, my friend played all day with his a-5 r/t with no problem. there were several cockers there to. i'll try adding a shim, thanks.
    I'm surprised that they would not let you use your Mag with the ULT when they are allowing an A-5 with an R/t on it. Is it really THAT bouncy? Is it more so than before you put the ULT on it? The ULT normally drops the reactivity quite a bit.

    I can only think that the people at this field have some sort of pre-disposition against Automags and simply didn't want you to use it no matter if it was legal or not.

    If you don't mind my asking, where was this field and what's it called?

  7. #217
    Thanks to BradAGD, and Potatoboy....I ended up shaving my pin a bit, and running 5ULT, and 1LX shim, and the ULT rips in my Retro! I'm going to shave a but more so I can drop the shim count...Definately a good product, just a B%&#h to tune...

    Rob
    Custom Automag M4A1 coming soon!

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  8. #218

    Red face Sticking problem

    Hey

    I should be getting my ult tommorrow but b4 I do just have a few questions, hopefully somebody can help. 1. I was working on 1 shim in my LX and it was sticking. I put two more but didn't get a chance to fine tune cuz I ran out of air. Do you think three is too many? How many should I have in there?

    2. Also if my problem is the carrier and not the shims, how do I remove the old carrier from the mainbody to change it? I got the Xvalve, which came standard with the LX so I didn't put the carrier in myself. It seems stuck, tried to pull it out w/a allen key but I don't want to damage anything. :o

  9. #219
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    I finally got my ULT to start the install on my valve which was working without problems before I started to install it. I put it in with the 2 shims in it and it started to work ok. Little spongey but working. I tried to add another shim to make it a little softer but then it wouldn't gas up with out leaking out the barrel and going into runaway. So I removed the shim that I added and reinstalled but same results, so I ended up removing all of the shims and trying that. That also leaked and went into runaway. So I installed the old RT valve and it did the same thing. What I found out regarding this was that the field strip screw was being over tightend and causing the on/off to never be able to hold the sear which in turn wouldn't hold the bolt back. So I tried a couple of things and finally figured the field strip screw was the problem. I now just tighten the screw so it is just snug and it seemed to work pretty well.
    I obviously don't have it fine tuned yet because it doesn't shoot very well just yet. I installed my old Classic valve which I had never used with my HPA and man that thing rocked way faster then I could fire the Emag valve either with the ULT or without. So that got me thinking what would this thing do with the ULT? Haven't tried that as of yet but I will try it soon.
    I must not have something right. How long does it take to break in the ULT, about a 1000 shots or so? Should it be working really well from the start?

    I'm running a Classic frame with the Emag valve without lvlX and the ULT with a preset tank.

  10. #220
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    I got my ULT Kit on Friday then took off on a trip to MD. I tried tuning it but all failed attempts. I just got back home so I have access to a computer.

    Here's my problem:

    With 2 Shims the marker won't fire, with 1 it won't fire. With 3 it goes Full Auto and I don't want to see what happens when I put all 4 in. Is it the carrier that's problematic? I probably should have read through this but I'm tired right now and didn't feel like it nor have time. :\
    AO Mid-Atlantic Part Duece.

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  11. #221
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    Is your sear in good shape?

    Do you have the rail bushing in the field strip screw hole?

    Are you using ULT shims or LX shims? ULT shims are .005" thick and LX shims are .010" thick.

  12. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackVCG
    Is your sear in good shape? Relatively. It's been through three different users over a 2-3 year span.

    Do you have the rail bushing in the field strip screw hole? Yes.

    Are you using ULT shims or LX shims? ULT shims are .005" thick and LX shims are .010" thick. ULT Shims.
    I -think- it's working now though. I guess it just needed to be broken in. It's brand new.

  13. #223
    Quote Originally Posted by silentdeath55
    It is true. I do have some problem with recharge rate. you probably won't get anymore firepower with this upgrade if you run a classic valve, but once you get the pull down you will hardly ever short stroke. The pull is extremely light though. I love it, but I cant wait to try it in an x-valve.
    what is he talking about when he says pull down??

  14. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobsbarricades
    what is he talking about when he says pull down??
    He means once you get comfortable with the feel of the trigger pull and it comes naturally to you without having to think about it.

  15. #225
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    Manhattan, IL
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    ok can someone post a pic of a assembled ULT since i'm getting one soon and i want to see what it looks like so i can compare it when i drop mine in

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  16. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sniper king
    ok can someone post a pic of a assembled ULT since i'm getting one soon and i want to see what it looks like so i can compare it when i drop mine in
    Well, actually, from the outside it looks just like the standard on/off after it's installed.

  17. #227
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    I'm unsure which type of valve mine is. It says ReTro Valve on it, but the guy I boutght it from said it had seen less than 15 speedball games, and looks dam near new. Is there any way I can tell if it is compadible with the ULT or not? I just took a picture of it if that helps.

    Edit: that's not rust, I just havn't cleaned it yet after it's last game so there's still some debry left in it from trees/paint (speedball and woodsball).
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  18. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plazmic
    Well, actually, from the outside it looks just like the standard on/off after it's installed.
    but i see it has a big thing at one end of the ON/off pin just wondering witch way it sits. also how would i know theres too many Shims?(note: I'm installing it on my classic valve)

  19. #229
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    If the back half of the valve is brown/gray and says ReTro Valve and the front half is stainless steel, (silver) then it's an official ReTro Valve with the single o-ring on/off.



    Quote Originally Posted by Backyard Bandit
    I'm unsure which type of valve mine is. It says ReTro Valve on it, but the guy I boutght it from said it had seen less than 15 speedball games, and looks dam near new. Is there any way I can tell if it is compadible with the ULT or not? I just took a picture of it if that helps.

  20. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sniper king
    but i see it has a big thing at one end of the ON/off pin just wondering witch way it sits. also how would i know theres too many Shims?(note: I'm installing it on my classic valve)
    Well, if you're putting it in a Classic valve, you'll probably not have too many shims in there. It takes a butt-load of shims to get it to work in a Classic Valve.

  21. #231
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    i wanna know anyway how many is too many because i plan on starting with the lvl10 shims and working my way up

  22. #232
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    ok i got my lvl10 today and was wondering. does the small black o-ring have to go on??? or doesn't it matter???

  23. #233
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    hey guys the ULT does work in a Classic so AGDJon take that thing where it says "ULT will not work in a Classic" out

  24. #234

    Unhappy ult problem...

    hey guys i got my ult in yesterday! i put it in my x-valve and gassed it up. it leaked down the barrel! i put in my x-valve on/off and it works fine. I have 2 ult shims in and i am using the LX carrier with 1 line and 1 dot. Why izzit leakin????????!!!!!!

    Thanks alot.

    Paul

  25. #235
    how do you get the pin out of the on/off top part

  26. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingclayo
    how do you get the pin out of the on/off top part
    Have you unscrewed the on/off?

  27. #237
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    The on/off top pin is loctited into the big round bottom support piece. You can change out the small black o-ring without ungluing the on/off top pin. To do this, take a dental pick of some sort and pry at the side of the black o-ring until it comes out of the hole. Then take your finger nails and pull up on the o-ring and it will stretch around the on/off pin and then come off.

    You can then take the replacement black o-ring that came with your ULT kit and push it onto the pin head and then once it gets onto the skinny part of the on/off pin push down on the top of the on/off pin to seat the o-ring into its pocket.

    If you are getting leaks down the barrel from the ULT, try replacing the black o-ring and if that doesn't work, replace the white urethane o-ring around the on/off bottom piece.

  28. #238
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    i have 5 shims and its still kinda slow and keeps short strokeing is there anyway i can add shimms to my LVL 10 or X valve to speed it up
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  29. #239

    Nothing is Happening :(

    I recently bought the ULT and i got everything ready to go with one shim in, gassed it up, and the trigger didnt reset(didnt let me shoot it) so i tried it with 2 shims, same thing. Tried 3, got one shot of and it didnt reset. Tried 4 shims and nothing happend. So i finally tried 5 shims...still nothing. I am using a classic valve but i thought the only problems with it would be shootdown, not having it not work at all. Please help. Any help would be greatly appriciated.
    Hi, I'm steve.

  30. #240

    Arrow

    I have an old valve on my RT Pro (the half alum and half stainless) and just sent it to Brad in Texas to get it drilled. Didn't I hear something about keeping a certain part from my old on/off because the new parts would not fit right??



    UPDATE!!!!!
    Okay, my retro valve was drilled, I added one shim on top of the three already installed and it was shooting great until my tank hit around 1000 psi, when the gun would not recock, and the bolt stayed mid-point, releasing a lot of air. What could this mean???

    Last edited by Castor Troy; 07-13-2004 at 01:57 PM.

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